Outside Kathmandu Valle, Terai & Pokhara

The Terai is stretches across the southern border of Nepal from Mahendranagar in the extreme west to Kakarbhitta in the extreme east. When people think of Nepal they usually think about huge mountains. Almost half the population of Nepal lives in the Terai, which is a flat, fertile piece of land that stretches between the mountains and the Indian border.

The main places to visit in the Terai are Royal Chitwan National Park; Lumbini, the birth place of Buddha; and pleasant interesting Janakpur, the birthplace of Sita and where she married Rama, from the Ramayana.

The main east–west road through Nepal is the Mahendra Highway, which goes from the Karnali River at the western border of Bardia National Park to Kakarbhitta on the eastern border of Nepal in the east. It is a good road.

Up to Ataria the road is in a decent condition. The road west from Ataria to Mahendranagar is in a bad condition.

Geography
The Terai go along the northern edge of the Gangetic plain. The Gangetic plain goes far into India and end at the Chure Hills (called the Siwalik Hills in India), where it goes up to 1000m immediately. It is never more than 40km wide. It ranges from 60m to 300m elevation.

The Terai makes up 17% of the area in Nepal. The soil is generally fertile and there is good rain, which accounts for good crops.

There are several flat, big valleys surround by the Chure Hills that are known as the Inner Terai. This area includes the Royal Chitwan National Park and the Rapti River, east of Nepalganj.

Climate
The Terai has a subtropical climate and it can often be humid. The best weather is from November to February, when day temperatures are from the mid 20º to the high 20º and it is cool, sometimes cold at night. It very seldom rains at this time.

From late April to the beginning of September the weather is hot, often going over 40ºC. The monsoon goes from mid-June to mid-September, and this not a good time to visit. Most areas in the Terai get over 1500mm of rain in a year.

People
Since malaria was for the most part eradicated different ethnic group have moved to the Terai. Many of the people are Indo-Aryan, like the people in Uttar Pradesh and Bihar in India. The main religion is Hinduism.

The common language in Nepal in Nepali, but many people in the Terai speak Hindi, Maithili and Bhojpuri. Over two million people speak Maithili, mainly in the area known in the past as Maithili of Janakpur and Biratnagar.

One of the main groups of people in the Terai is the Tharus, who mainly live in the west and the area around Chitwan. Most of them have Mongoloid features.

Pokhara Area
Pokhara is the starting point for many treks and walks in the area. Treks go from one day to three walk treks. The Jomsom Trek, Annapurna Circuit and the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek all begin in the general area of Pokhara and details on these treks are in the Trekking Section.

Ranighat Durbar
This huge fantastic ruined palace was built Khadga Shamsher Rana in 1896. After plotting to become prime minister he was exile to Tansen and made governor. It is referred to as the Taj Mahal of Nepal, because it is believed to have been built in memory of his wife, Taj Kumari.

In 1921, 25 years after building the palace Khadga tried again to become the prime minister. After this he was exiled to India. After this the valuable furnishing were taken from the palace and it has deteriorated over the years.

You get here from Tansen by taking the trail that is east of the Hotel Srinagar, as the border of the pine forest. It is a pleasant 7km walk down to the river, around a two hours walk in each direction.

Land Rovers are more expensive.

Tandi (Tadi) Bazaar
Tandi Bazaar is between Narayanghat and Hetauda in Chitwan Valley. The only reason to come here is while going and coming form Sauraha, which is where the budget accommodations are located for Royal Chitwan National Park.
For transportation details see the Chitwan and Sauraha sections.

Rajbiraj
Rajbiraj is a boring nothing town, but it in next to the Sapta Kosi flood plain and has some interesting countryside and villages to the east. Rajbiraj is south of the main highway and unless you have your own transportation it will not be so easy to visit.

Sinha Lodge, on the main road, is the only place in town. It is a really basic place that has rooms for Rs 75/120.

There are regular local buses to Janakpur (Rs 55) and Biratnagar (Rs 55).

Itahari
Itahari is ordinary town on Mahendra Highway at the intersection with the road to Biratnagar and Dhankuta.

There is not a good selection of hotels here. One of the best places (that is not saying much) is the Jaya Nepal Hotel, near the traffic circle (roundabout). It has double rooms with common bath for Rs 175 and Rs 300/400 with bath. The restaurant has decent food.

Travel
All of the long-distance buses going east–west stop in Itahari. There are several buses to Biratnagar (one hr, Rs 14) and Dharan (30 minutes, Rs 9) and a bus to Dhankuta (5 hr, Rs 50) at 6 am.

Dharan Bazaar
Dharan is a happening bazaar town at the foot of the Chure Hills. There is not much to do here. It is 50km from Dhankuta. If you taking a trek, this is a good chance to get some supplies. Trekkers may pass through this town going to Hile (12km), a starting point for treks and Basantapur and while coming from Chatara, 15km west, which is where rafting trip on the Sun Kosi end.

There is an annual religious festival at Baraha Chhetra, which is 5km north of Chhatra in late October or early November.

Where to Stay
There are several places to stay here. The Hotel Navayug is not such a good place.
Hotel Family Inn (20848), near the bus stop in the middle of town, near Bhanu Chowk, has decent doubles with common bath for Rs 250 and Rs 400 with bath.
Hotel Aangan, close to Bhanu Chowk, is a decent place with clean double rooms with bath for Rs 400 and A/C rooms for Rs 600.

Travel
The scenery on the road to Hile is excellent. There are buses to Dhankuta (3 hr, Rs 50), Hile (between 5.30 am to 3 pm). There is a direct night bus to Kathmandu (12 hr, 3 pm, Rs 300).

Mugling
Mugling is located between Kathmandu (110km) and Pokhara (96km) at the junction of Prithvi Highway and the road to Narayanghat. It is at 208m which makes it the lowest town between Kathmandu and Pokhara. Public buses stop for lunch.

It is also where the Marsyangdi and Trisuli Rivers meet and that forms the Narayani, which is a major river that flows into the Ganges. It is where fairly intense white-water rafting trip on the Trisuli end. Also it is the beginning point of fairly calm rafting trips on the Narayani ending at Narayanghat, near the Royal Chitwan National Park.

Where to Stay and Eat
Mugling is not such a nice place to stay, as it can be quite noisy because of all the traffic on the road.
Hotel Machhapuchre, at the west side of town, has rooms with bath for Rs 250. The rooms in front are very noisy, so should be avoided. It has a popular restaurant.
Motel du Mugling (056 29434; Kathmandu: 225-242), just over the bridge on the road going towards Pokhara, has comfortable rooms for $20/25. It has a pleasant location at the confluence of the Trisuli and Marsyangdi. It has a nice terrace with good views.

Bandipur

Where to Stay
Bandipur Mountain Resort (220-162; email: island@mos.com.np), at the north end of the Tudikhel, has luxury tents.

Dumre
Dumre is at the junction of the road that goes to Besisahar, where the Annapurna Circuit trek begins. There is no real reason to come here, except it has a fair selection of supplies at decent prices. It is 2½ east of Pokhara and five hours west of Kathmandu.

Where to Stay and Eat
Mustang Lodge, in the center of town, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 50/90.
Hotel Chhim Keshori is a decent place.
Manang Guest House is a decent place.

How to Get Here
A regular bus from Kathmandu costs Rs 80 and a tourist bus cost Rs 170. To get to Besisahar by shared jeep takes 3 to 5 hours and costs around Rs 400.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides