Kathmandu,
Nepal
Pop:
450,000 Area Code: 01
This
is the main city of Nepal and if you arrive by air this is where you
will arrive. It is an interesting city with many old buildings. While
walking through Kathmandu you will on the buildings some of the most
impressive ancient sculptures in the world. You can easily stay busy
just wandering the streets for a couple of days. It is safer than
most cities in the world.
There
are a good selection of hotels and restaurants in Kathmandu. The main
area where most tourist stay is in Thamel, north of the old city,
where most of the hotels, restaurants, and travel agencies.
Kathmandu
has the only international airport in Nepal.
This
is one of my favorite cities in the world and I would highly suggest
a visit to this extremely interesting place.
Orientation
The most visited tourist site in the city is Durbar Square, where
the old palace and some temples are located. Going east from Durbar
Square is New Road, which is the main shopping area. South of New
Road is Bhimsen Tower, which is a landmark for the area.
North of the Square is the Thamel Area, where most of
the lower and mid-range hotels and the restaurants are located. North
of the square and south of Thamel is the area called Chhetrapati.
Just south of the Square is Freak Street, where there are some budget
hotels.
North of the Square and east of Thamel is Durbar Marg,
where the Royal Palace, several high-end hotels, several airline offices,
and restaurants are located. Kantipath is another main road that runs
north–south parallel with Durbar Marg. The city is surrounded
by Ring Road.
Swayambhunath, is just west of Kathmandu. Pashupatinath
and Boudha are just east of the city.
Tours
Grayline (413-188) has different tours around the City: One tour goes
to Bhaktapur, Boudha, and Pashupatinath (3 hr) for Rs 300. The Patan
and Swayambhunath tour (3 hr) cost Rs 400. To go to Nagarkot in the
afternoon takes 4 hours and cost Rs 450. A trip to Dhulikhel takes
4 hours and cost Rs 350. To go and stay at Nagarkot overnight cost
$59 per person. You can reserve a seat for these tours from many of
the travel agencies in town. Grayline has a counter in the Yak &
Yeti Hotel. There are morning and evening tours that depart from their
Ram Shah Path office at 9 am and 2.30 pm.
General
Information
Nepal Traveller is a useful free magazine with tourist information
about Nepal. It is available at the airport and the tourist office
on New Road. It has a good deal of practical information.
The City Map passed out at the airport and tourist offices is good
enough for most people.
Namaste Language Institute (215-660), Chhetrapati, is a good language
school.
ITC School (412-793); email: raj@itc.mos.com.np), down
a road north of Tin Dewal, on Tridevi Marg; and Cultural Destination
Nepal (426-996; 416-417), in Dilli Bazaar, are both good language
schools. They both have long-term courses, individual sessions (Rs
200 per hour), and home stays.
Visa
Extensions and Trekking Permits
You get visa extensions and trekking permits at the Central Immigration
Office (418-573???), in Baneswar. Open Sunday to Thursday 10 am to
2 pm (closes 1 pm winter???), Friday 10 am to noon. You pick up your
passport the same day. Travel agents can wait for you for a fee, from
Rs 200 to Rs 600. Fees are only payable in rupees.
Baneswar is out of the way for Thamel, and take about 15 minutes to
ride a bike to. A taxi from Thamel costs Rs 80 to Rs 100 each way.
To get a shared tempo, you get on near the GPO at Kantipath and get
off at Purano Baneswar.
You get National Park permits at a building close to the Immigration
office. There are places that take passport photos in the area for
Rs 150. Trekking permits are around Rs 300 a week and to enter a national
park or conservation area is Rs 650 (Everest or Annapurna). You pay
the Rs 650 across the street in the Himalayan Bank at the “Entry
Fee Collection Centre.” You need two photos for a trekking permit.
The office is often closed on major Nepali holidays.
The office is closed for a few days during the Dasain festival in
October, and the office can be very crowded at this time.
It is easily to get a visa extension in Pokhara.
Entertainment
There are video shops around the city, which play the newest videos.
The Moon Sun Disco at the Heritage Plaza in Kamaladi is the only disco
in town.
There are four casinos in town at the high-end hotels – Yak
& Yeti, Soaltee, l’Annapurna and Everest. They are open
24 hours.
Nepali
Dance & Music
All the high-end hotels have a cultural show nightly. Usually the
show is in a restaurant and the performance may take place while you
eat.
At the National Theatre there are regular dance and music performances.
At the Cultural Hall, at the Hotel Shankar in Lazimpat,
there are nightly dance performances by the Himalchuli Cultural Group
(Rs 300). Show start at 7pm in the summer and 6.30 pm in the winter.
Yoga and Meditation
The Yoga Studio (417-900; email: chrissieg@wlink.com.np)
Holistic Yoga Ashram (419-334), PO Box 4583, a little south of the
Kathmandu Guest House,
Patanjali Yoga Centre (278-437; fax 245-231; email: saptayoga@hotmail.com)
Ananda Yoga Centre (311-048; email: ananda@yoga.wlink.com.np)
Shakti Healing Yoga Centre (282-856; fax 225-184)
Asheesh Osho Meditation Centre (271-385)
Osho Tapoban Forest Retreat Centre (353-762), PO Box 278,
Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre
Buddhist
Meditation
The Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre (221-875; email: hbmc@casnov.attmail.com)
Kathmandu Buddhist Centre (PO Box 5336, Kathmandu)
Nepal Vipassana Centre (250-581; fax 224-720)
Libraries
and Cultural Centers
The British Council (222-698), on Kantipath, has British newspapers
and magazines, and a good selection of books on Nepal (Monday and
Friday, 10 am to 6 pm, Tuesday to Thursday 10 am to 5 pm).
The American Center (410-041), Gyaneswar, east of Kamal Pokhri, has
a library with up-to-date magazines (Monday to Friday 11 am to 5 pm).
It is open only to Nepali and foreigners living in Nepal.
The French Cultural Centre (224-326), in Bagh Bazaar, has a French
library and show films in French.
The Goethe Institute (250-871), near Bhimsen Tower in Ganabahal, has
a German library and shows German films.
Kaiser (Kesar) Library (411-318), Tridevi Marg and Kantipath, has
a great collection of books on Buddhism, Nepal and Tibet. It is in
an interesting building and garden.
Rastriya Pustakalaya (521-132) is the Nepal National Library at Pulchowk
in Patan. It has books in English and Hindi.
The Tribhuvan University Library is a good library open Sunday to
Friday 9 am to 5 pm.
Going to Tibet
Visa for Tibet are gotten at the Chinese Embassy. To get a visa for
Tibet you are supposed to travel with an organized tour with three
people or more. Once you get to Tibet you can travel alone, but you
should not mention this at the embassy. You need one photo and the
visa is ready the same day.
Entertainment
The following are places that have cultural shows.
Hotel de l’Annapurna, Durbar Marg, daily at 7 pm, Rs 250.
Hotel Sherpa (227-000), Durbar Marg, has a cultural show in the restaurant,
which is free, but you have to eat there.
New Himachali Cultural Group, at the Hotel Shankar in Lazimpath has
daily shows in the summer at 7 pm and in the winter at 6 pm; Rs 400.
Hot-air
Balloon
There are daily Balloon ride on clear days to get an
excellent view of the Himalayas. You also get a great view of the
Kathmandu Valley. It is a wonderful experience. It costs $195 per
person, which includes transportation for a hotel in Thamel and a
buffet breakfast in a restaurant in Thamel. They are booked at Balloon
Sunrise Nepal (418-214; fax 424-157; email: nepal@intrek.wlink.com.np).
Sports
There is a swimming pool near the National Stadium open 10 am to 5
pm. Monday is ladies’ day. Admission Rs 15. There is a pool
at Balaju for Rs 10.
The high-end hotels often allow non-guest to use their pools. The
Woodlands Hotel and Hotel Sherpa charge around Rs 350. The Hotel de
l’Annapurna has the largest pool and charges $5 for a day.
The Royal Nepal Golf Course is near the airport. The tennis court
at the Hotel de l’Annapurna can be used for Rs 200 per hour.
The Kathmandu Physical Fitness Centre (413-638), in Lazimpat, weight
equipment, a sauna and jacuzzi (spa). Short membership is offered.
There is a good sauna in the Vajra Hotel, between Thamel and Swayambhunath.
Seeing
the City
The city can be visited in a systematic way by taking a tour while
walking. The descriptions in the following section can be visited
by following them along a route while walking. The routes go to temples,
shopping area and pass chowk (central squares or courtyards).
Kathmandu Durbar
Square
There are more than 50 temples and shrines within Durbar Square. This
is the site of the old Royal Palace of the king of Nepal, on the east
side of the square. Durbar means “palace.” The king no
longer lives in this palace. The king moved to the New Palace in the
Narayanhiti area about 100 years ago. Hours can be spent here wandering
around the square.
The ancient buildings here are interesting and it most
likely the most visited place in Kathmandu. It is interesting seating
on the platform of the Maju Deval Temple and watching the happenings
of the square.
The Durbar Square area is actually three connected squares.
South of the palace is Basantar Square. Freak Street goes south from
Basantar Square. To the west of the palace is Durbar Square, which
runs north-east. From Durbar Square the former main street of town,
Makhan Tole, runs northeast. It is an interesting street to walk along.
The Nepal Tourist Water Centre, working out of a shop
across from the entrance of the palace near the Taleju Bells, has
a good map (Rs 25) of the square, with some interesting detailed information
about the square.
Durbar
Square Temples
Click Here to go to Durbar Square Temples
Hanuman
Dhoka (Old Royal Palace)
Swayambhunath
Area
There are several Tibetan settlements at the base of the hill. The
National Museum & Art Gallery are south of Swayambhunath on the
road coming from Kathmandu.
On a hilltop behind Swayambhunath there is a smaller
stupa, a gompa next door. Near by is a temple dedicated to Saraswati,
the goddess of learning. The main festival here is Basant, when Saraswati
is worshipped.
The Natural History Museum, west of Swayambhunath, has
a collection of animals, birds, fish, butterflies and reptiles. Open
daily except Saturday and public holidays 10 am to 5 pm. Admission
free.
The Ichangu Narayan temple is 3km west.
Between
Swayambhunath & Kathmandu
Along the walking route from Thamel to Swayambhuanth via Chhetrapati
Square down to the Vishnumati River are three interesting temples.
When you descend to the river the Indrani Temple is on the right just
before the bridge. It has some bright color carving on its roof struts,
including some erotic ones. There are some cremation ghats near the
river here.
Just across the river on the left is the Bijeshwari
Temple on top of a steep hill. On the right after crossing the bridge
is Shobabaghwati Temple.
National
Museum and Art Gallery
This museum, located at Chhauni near Swayambhunath, houses the country’s
best collection of ancient religious art. Most of these works of arts
are sculptures dating from the first to the 13th century. There is
a metalwork exhibit and a room containing wood-carvings. There is
also a weapon exhibit, which includes a Tibetan cannon.
Open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, 10.30 am to
5 pm (4 pm in the winter) and on Friday 10 am to 2.30 pm. Closed Tuesday.
Admission Rs 10. It is easy to visit the museum while visiting Swayambhunath.
Ichangu
Narayan Temple
This important two-story 18th century temple is dedicated to Narayan,
an expansion of Lord Vishnu. In front of the temple are two square
stone pillars that have the conch shell and disc (cakra) the signs
of Lord Vishnu on them. There are various statues located in the courtyard.
A previous temple was built here in 1200 and another previous temple
was built here in 1512. On the hill overlooking this temple is a temple
dedicated to Bhagwati.
This temple is 5km west of Thamel and 3km northwest
of Swayambhunath. This temple is different than the Changu Narayan
Temple in the east part of the valley.
Travel
The road that goes to Ichangu Narayan begins past Ring Road west of
Swayambhunath hill. The road becomes a trail and goes up a steep hill.
When you get to the top of the hill you go about another 3km past
a small temple and descents a bit and then start climbing further.
The temple is at the end of the village. It is a really tough bike
ride to here and an easy ride back.
You can also come here by making a day walk from Balaju,
which is north of Kathmandu. From Balaju you climb to the top of Nagarjun
hill and then walk along the valley edge pass the Jamacho Forest Reserve
and the Nagarjun Forest. You then descent to the path to Ichangu Narayan,
which is west of the temple.
Dhum
Varahi Temple
In this temple is a 5th century Deity of Lord Varaha (Lord Vishnu
as a boar) rescuing Prithvi, the earth goddess. There is a huge sacred
pipal tree overlooking the shrine of Lord Varaha.
It is about 5 km northeast of the Thamel area, in the school-yard
of the Shridhumrabarah Primary School, a little inside Ring Road,
on the way to Budhanilkantha and the ISKCON Temple. If you go to Budhanilkantha
by taxi or bike, you can stop on the way.
Travel
If you are coming from Pashupatinath on Ring Road, you make a left
at the third dirt road after going over the Dhobi River. From the
intersection of the road to Budhanilkantha and Ring Road, you take
the second dirt on the right after pasting the Panchayat Silver Jubilee
Garden. It has a black-marble column with a conch shell on top. You
then go a kilometre and you will see the pipal tree.
Pharping
There is a temple here dedicated to Lord Vishnu as the dwarf Vamana.
There is a holy tank next to the temple. It is located on the way
to the Dakshinkali temple, which is 12 miles south of Kathmandu.
Other
Places
The new Royal Palace was open in 1970 for King Birendra’s
wedding. It is only open for the public on the 10th day of Dasain.
The people receive tikka (“blessings”) from the King and
Queen at this time. The compound of the palace can be visited on Thursday,
11 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4 pm; admission Rs 250.
Kesar Library is the old library of
the former palace of Kesar Shamsher Rana (1891-1964). It is on the
corner of Kantipath and Tridevi Marg. It has a stuffed tiger, portraits
and suits of armor.
Northwest
Valley on the way to Kakani
At Kakani there are some fantastic views of the Ganesh Himal. From
Trisuli Bazaar to Dhunche the road become a bumpy dirt road. Several
treks in the Langtang region begin in Dhunche. From Dhunche a gravel
road goes along Langtang Valley over the Trisuli River and goes west
to Samdang at 3600m. You need a four-wheel drive vehicle for this
part of the trip.
Balaju
The Balaju Water Gardens, located 2km northwest of Thamel in the town
of Balaju, has fountains, gardens and fish ponds. It is now know as
Mahendra Park. The garden is a peaceful place. There is a copy of
the Lord Vishnu Deity at Budhanilkantha here, but it is smaller. The
king of Nepal is not allowed to see the Deity at Budhanilkantha, but
he can come here to see this Vishnu Deity.
The park was established in the 18th century. The park
has 22 water fountains, some chortens (shrines) and lingas. The park
is not so well-maintained. The park is open daily 7 am to 7 pm. Admission
Rs 4, camera Rs 3. There is a pool in the park which is open March
to September; admission Rs 40.
The 19th century Shitala Mai Temple is across from the
Vishnu deity. There are many deities in the temple including: a 16th
century deity of Hari-Shankar, who is half Vishnu and half-Siva, Ganesh,
the Buddha with a hood of snakes, Bhagwati, and a 14th century image
of Shitala Mai, the multi-armed goddess of smallpox.
Travel
You can get a tempo to here from the corner of the National Theater
of the Rani Pokhari. You can walk here from Thamel. It is a pleasant
walk between Balaju and Ichanga Narayan, about 2½ km west.
Road
to Sankhu
From Bodhnath the road goes east to Sankhu and the interesting Vajra
Jogini Temple. It is a fairly gentle bike ride from Bodhnath to Sankhu,
and it can be combined with a trip to Changu Narayan or Nagarkot.
After going over the Bagmati River, first you come to Gokarna Jungle
Park, a former royal game reserve.
Gokarna
Jungle Park
Gokarna Jungle Park, two km past Bodhnath Stupa and 10km from the
Thamel area, is a former Royal Game Reserve. It has hog deer, chital
(spotted deer), monkeys and birds. It used to be a nice place to see
wildlife and relax, but it has been closed and a golf course is being
made. Buses to Sankhu from the City bus station past the entrance
of the park depart. It is nice bike ride to here.
Sankhu
(20km)
There are still some remains from the days when Sankhu was an important
village on the Kathmandu and Lhasa route. There are many houses with
good woodcarvings on them. The main reason to come here is to visit
the Vajra Jogini Temple, 2km north of the town, to where it is an
easy walk or bike ride.
The main festivals here are Magh Sankranti (January 14 or 15), when
people bath in the river here; and Sankhu Jaatra (full moon of March/Arpil),
when the deity of Vajra Jogini is paraded around town.
Travel
Buses to Sankhu depart from the Kathmandu City bus station. It takes
two hours and costs Rs 20.
It is an easy bike ride from Kathmandu to Sankhu. It takes about 1½
hours to get here from Bodhnath. It goes mainly along the Manohara
River. During the dry season you can cross the Manohara River and
ride up to Changu Narayan.
In the Nagarkot, there is explanation of the interesting walk from
Nagarkot to Sankhu.
Mountain
Flight
You can take a plane ride over the Himalayas for $99. The ride goes
over Mt. Everest and takes about an hour. It leaves around 9 am, because
the morning is usually the clearest time of the day. You can arrange
a ticket with most travel agents. The airlines that do the flight
are Everest Air, Nepal Airways, and Necon Air. The flights are every
day from September to May. From June to the beginning of September
it is usually too cloudy to see anything.
Antiques
There are many antique shops on Durbar Marg and in Patan. Many objects
sold as antiques are not real antiques, but are made to look old by
pulling some chemical on them or burying them for several months.
This does not mean that many items aren’t worth buying, but
you should not pay extra for these supposed antiques. It is illegal
to take Nepali antiques, over 100 years old, out of the country. It
is legal to export Tibetan, Indian and Bhutanese antique, if you get
an export stamp. If an object looks even remotely like an antique
it should be cleared with the Department of Archaeology (213-701),
Babar Mahal, as your baggage can be thoroughly searched by Customs
when you leave the country.
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