Pashupatinath

Located here is an excellent selection of ancient Hindu temples, bathing ghats, and sadhus. The Pashupatinath Temple here is considered to be one of the most important Hindu temples in Nepal. It is believed that to die and to be cremated here will release one from the cycle of repeated birth and death.

Pashupatinath is 5km east of the Thamel area on the bank of the Bagmati River. It is a little southwest of Bodhnath, between Thamel and the airport.

There is an interesting circuit that visits the sites in the area. First you go to the Pashupatinath Temple, then see the sites near the Bagmati River, then to the Gorakhnath Temple, the Gujeshwari Temple and then return. You could also continue on to Bodhnath, as they are a short walk apart (2km northeast). Pashupatinath is on the way to Boudhanath, so both can be visited on the same day.

Even though foreigners can not enter the Pashupatinath temple, it is still worth coming here, because there are many temples in the area. It is an ancient and interesting place.

A four-hour guided tour of the Pashupatinath area cost about Rs 200 ($4).

Pashupatinath Temple
It is said that Lord Siva came here because it was a perfect place for a holiday. Worship has been going on here for at least 1500 years and there was a Siva temple here at least as far back as 879 AD. It is one of the most important Siva temples on the sub-continent and many Indians come to visit this popular pilgrimage site. Inside the temple is a black, four-headed deity of Lord Siva.
Pashupatinath means the “Lord of the Animals.” In this form, Lord Siva shows his peaceful mood of protectors of the animals. Often Siva is shown is a more destructive mood, is in known as the destroyer in the Hindu pantheon. There are no animal sacrifices done here, as they are done in many other Siva temples.

One story about the temple is that one time Siva took the form of a one-horned stag to avoid some obligations he had and then fled to here. Various gods followed him and catching him here broke off his horn, which became the Pashupatinath linga. It is said that the linga was lost for a while, until he was found under a spot where a cow was dropping her milk.

Before going on an important journey, the King will normally visit Pashupatinath to insure a safe journey. Whenever the King gives a public speech, he will end it by asking for the grace of Pashupatinath.

The present temple was built by King Bhupalendra Malla is 1653. Inscription state that a previous temple dates back to fifth century, and it is believed that there was a temple here much later. The temple has a two tiered gold plated roof, silver doors and fine quality wood carvings on its pagoda construction.

King Yaksha Malla brought Brahman priests here from South India, and this is still being done. The priest wear orange robes.

Non-Hindus can not enter most of these temples and this is strictly enforced. This really means non-Asian looking people. There is a good view from across the river. From the entrance it may be possible to view inside the temple Nandi, Siva’s bull carrier. There is a small 300-year-old image of Nandi in front of the temple, and a trident on top of the temple, which indicated it is dedicated to Lord Siva.

The Pashupati linga has four faces and an a fifth invisible one is said to be on top of the others. The present linga dates back to the 14th century when the previous one was destroyed by Muslim invaders.

The main festival of the year is Sivaratri in February/March. Pilgrims come from all over Nepal and India. The busiest time is from 7 to 10 am and 6 to 8 pm. Arati times, when lamps and other items are offered, are the busiest times. Ekadashi, the 11th day after the new and full moon, are usually busy days.

Bagmati River Area
The Bagmati River flows next to the temple and is considered holy because it flows into the Ganges. It is considered especially auspicious to bathe in the Bagmati during the Sivaratri Festival, Magh Sankranti (January 14 or 15), Bala Chaturdashi (Nov/Dec), on full moon days, ekadashis, and for women the Tij Festival in early August or late September.

The cremation ground is near the temple and it is popular place to be cremated. The ashes of persons cremated are sprinkled into the waters of the Bagmati, eventually to be carried to the Ganges. The Arya Ghat burning ground right next to the temple north of the bridge is only used by royalty for cremations. Next to the ghat is a 7th century statue of Virupaksha, the “Three-eyes Siva.” The Ram Ghat cremation grounds south of the bridge are used by the normal people.

Photography is allowed during a cremation. Photos should be taken discretely, as a cremation is a funeral and a family tragedy. Would you want a bunch of tourist taking pictures during one of your family’s funeral?

The 6th century Bachhareshwari temple, dedicated to Siva’s consort Parvati, is south of the cremation ghats between the two bridges, on the western bank of the river. It has Tantric and erotic carvings on it. Nearby is a 3m terracotta Lord Narayan (a form of Vishnu). It is said that at one time during the Sivaratri Festival human sacrifices used to perform here. There an interesting 7th century half-buried figure of a standing Buddha right outside of the door of the temple.

Further south are the Raj Rajeshwari and Nawa Durga temples. The Pancha Dewal, which has five cupolas, is now used as an old person’s home.

One part of it is run by Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity. The sisters here can often use some help.

East Bank of River
From across the river, on the east bank of the river, you can get a good view of the Pashupatinath temple and of the happenings on the other side of the river. There are many Siva lingas on the small hill on the bank of the river. At the north end of the terrace there is a Siva-linga with a 6th century carving of Siva on it. You can see the golden trident on the temple roof. The trident is the symbol of Siva, and it indicates that it is a Siva temple.

If you cross the river at the cremation grounds and then go south, which is to your right, you come to the Ram Temple. Further south is the Rama Janaki Temple, which has deities of Sita, Ram and Hanuman. Janaki is another name for Sita, the wife of Ram. Next to this temple, with of a statue of Garuda in front of it, is the Lakshmi Narayana (Vishnu) Temple.

Gorakhnath and Vishwarup Temples
Across the river and up the hill going up the main stairway is the interesting Gorakhnath complex. There are many monkeys along the steps leading to the temple. The main temple has a shikhara tower with a trident on top and is dedicated to Gorakhnath, the patron deity of the Shah Kings. It is surrounded by other temples, sculptures, statues of Siva and Nandi, and Siva lingas. It is said that Lord Siva came here in the form of a stag.

To the southeast of this temple is the Viswarup Temple, which is dedicated to the “Universal Form” of Lord Vishnu. There is a large statue of Siva and Parvati in this temple. Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter and from the outside there is not much to see.

Guhyeshwari (Guhjeshwari) Temple
If you continue on path down the hill to the river from the Gorakhnath temple, you reach the Guhyeshwari Temple, which is dedicated to Goddess Kali. When Lord Siva was carrying away the body of Parvati after she burned herself to death, her yoni, the female sexual symbol, which is the female counterpart of a linga, fell here. It has a kalash in a pit that has liquid in it (RG). The temple name comes from guhya (vagina) and ishwari (goddess). King Pratap Malla built this temple in the 17th century. The temple is in a courtyard with dharamshala by it. It has four gilded snakes supporting its roof, which can be seen from the outside. Guhyeshwari is considered by Buddhist to be one of the powerful Bajra Joginis, four tantric goddesses, and this place is said to be from where to seed that Swayambhu lotus grew from.

Non-Hindus can not enter this temple and it is not possible to see inside.

Kirateshwar Mahadeva Mandir and Surya Ghat
You then follow the river west past the Kirateshwar Mahadeva Temple, where there are often classical Nepali music concerts on full-moon nights. You go over the river and then head south past Surya Ghat, where there are some caves in the cliffs. You could also climb up Kailash Hill, from where there is a view of the Pashupatinath area and on a clear day a good view of the mountains to the northeast.

From Guhyeshwari temple you can return to Pashupatinath or continue on to Boudhanath, which is about 2km northeast.

Where to Stay and Eat
There are mainly only real basic places to stay in the area.

Shree Shankar Guest House (470-374), near the Pashupatinath Temple, is a decent place with rooms with hot water for Rs 250/350.

Kafleko, on the east bank of the Bagmati River, is a restaurant.

Travel to Pashupatinath
From Kathmandu bus #1 to Patan from the Ratna Park or City bus station. The stop for Pashupatinath (45-min) is called Goshala. Battery-operated Safaa tempos depart from near the RNAC office on Kantipath stops on Ring Road, west of Pashupatinath. You can get a tempo going to Chabahil or Bodhnath.

From Thamel a taxi is around Rs 120

It is an easy bicycle ride from Kathmandu to Pashupatinath. If you start in Thamel you go along Tridevi Marg going past the Royal Palace. Then take the first right after Durbar Marg, and then make a left onto Kamal Pokhari, the first major road. You then go to Gaushala, a hectic intersection of Ring Road. The road to Pashupatinath goes downhill from the northeast corner of Goshala. You most likely will want to give a few rupees for someone to look after your bike.

It is a short walk between Bodhnath and Pashupatinath. You can see the stupa at Bodhanth from the Guhyeshwari Temple in the north. You go over the bridge at the Guhyeshwari temple and then go north for a few minutes. Turn right at first path that is reached. The path goes to the main road near the entrance to the stupa.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides