Kirtipur

The small town of Kirtipur is on a hill, 5km southwest of Kathmandu. In the past there were 12 gates of the town. Parts of the old city wall still remain. The main industry in town is the Kirtipur Cottage Industry Centre and most of the residents are either weavers or farmers. There are some great views of Kathmandu and the mountains behind it.

Kirtipur is on two hills and the saddle between the hills.

With its easily defendable hilltop location, when Prithvi Narayan Shah attacked the valley in 1768, Kirtipur was the first place to be attacked. After a tough siege, the town was taken. The king being angry at the resistance order that all the male residents of the town have their lips and nose cut off, but those who could play wind instruments were spared. It is said that news of this punishment spread across the valley and resistant was weakened else where across the valley. Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur all quickly who defeated.

Tribhuvan University, the University of Nepal, has the best library in Nepal. It is at the bottom of the hill that the town is on.

Temples
At the bottom of the two hills, where they meet is the three-tiered Bagh Bhairab Temple, which is holy to both Hindus and Buddhists. The main deity of the temple is Bhairab, in the form of a tiger. There is a temple torana to the left of the entrance with Vishnu riding Garuda. Bhairab in the middle of Ganesh and Kumar is below them. The temple is covered with swords and shields that belong to the troop of Kirtipur, who were defeat by the army of King Prithvi Narayan Shah. Sacrifices are made here on Tuesday and Saturday mornings.

The triple-roofed Uma Maheshwar Temple, or Hindu Kvat, is gotten by climbing the stone stairway by the saddle. On either side of the beginning of the stairway is a stone elephant with spikes on them. The main deities in this temple are standing Siva and Parvati. To the left of the main deities is the form of Siva with Parvati leaning against him seductively. From the temple there are good views of the surrounding area. The temple was originally built in 1673 and had four roofs. It was damaged in the earthquake of 1934 and was restored.

The Chilanchu Vihara is on top of the southern hill. It has a central stupa and four stupas around it. It has statues and bells.

Travel
Many buses come here from the Kathmandu City bus stand (45 minutes, Rs 6). The bus stops at the university and from there you walk up the hill to the town. It is more comfortable to get here by taxi from Kathmandu (Rs 200).

By mountain bike it takes about 1½ hours to get to Kirtipur from Kathmandu. It is a long steep ride up the hill to here. You take the Ring Road Bridge across the Bagmati River and then take the first left onto the Dakshinkali road. After around 1km past the bridge you turn right onto the road that has two brick gatehouses on either side of the road. You go about 1km up the hill and then take the left fork where the minibuses stop near the university.
To return from Kirtipur, you can go to village of Chobar and then to Chobar Gorge and then ride to Patan. From the Chilanchu Vihara, at the southeast end of Kirtipur, you ride down the hill by the mound called Mazadega (built as a foundation of the stupa). At the bottom of the hill you take the Pharping Road and then get on the trail to Chobar, a little past the Thai temple. It is easy to see Chobar, because it is easily seen on a hill to the southeast. You can also take a thin footpath up the hill to the village of Chobar, where there is the Adinath Lokeshwar Temple. You then keep riding down the hill towards the river, towards the cement works besides the river. The Chobar Gorge and Jal Binayak Temple are near the cement works.

From the trail above you can also take a side trip to Panga, which has some temple, but nothing of particular interest. From Panga, you go to the small village of Nagaon.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides