Bodhnath
(Boudhanath)
One
of the largest stupas in South Asia is located at Boudhanath, 5km
east of the center of Kathmandu. It is the focal point for Tibetan
Buddhism in Nepal. It is considered to be one of the most important
Tibetan Buddhism monuments outside of Tibet. It is believed to date
to the 5th century. It is known to Tibetans as Chorten Chempa or the
“Great Stupa).
There are over 35 gompas in the area of the stupa. It
is a nice walk from Pashupatinath. Bodhnath is a little north of the
airport.
There is an entire village around the stupa inhabited
mainly by Tibetans. Many of the Tibetans are in exile since the Chinese
took over Tibet in 1959.
There is a big festival here on Losar, the Tibetan New Year in February
or March. This is the biggest Tibetan New Years festival in Nepal.
Buddha Jayanti, the birthday of the Buddha, is on the full moon night
of April/May. On this day a statue of the Buddha is taken on an elephant
around the stupa.
Bodhnath Stupa
It is not known when a stupa was built here, but it is believed to
be around 600 AC. The present stupa is said to date to the 14th century,
after the area was desiccated by Muslim invaders.
There are always some sacred items inside a stupa. It is not known
exactly what is in the Bodhnath Stupa, but some believed that there
is a bone form the Buddha inside.
The base of the stupa symbolizes the earth. On top of
it is the done which symbolizes water. On top of this i the spire
(tower) that symbolizes fire, then the umbrella that symbolizes air.
On top is the pinnacle which symbolizes either. The spire has 13 levels,
which represents the 13 stages to attain nirvana. On all four sides
of the square base of the spire are the all watchful eyes of the Buddha.
There is a third eye between and above the normal two eyes. The nose
is really the Nepali number one, which signifies the unity of life.
There is a shrine dedicated to Ajima,
the goddess of smallpox on the north side of the stupa.
The are 108 small images of the Dhyani Buddha Amitabha
around the base of the done of the stupa. There is a brick wall that
goes around the stupa with 147 niches, which all have prayer wheels
that have the mantra om mani padme hum.
Bodhnath
Gompas
There are several gompas in the area of Bodhnath
You should take off your shoes and hat before entering, and should
ask before taking photo. Smoking is prohibited. During a service photos
should not be taken and you should not walk in between the monks or
near the altar. The monk’s cushions should not be stepped over.
It is normal to give an offering at a gompas. It is
traditional to give a khata (white scarf) to a lama (Buddhist monk),
but a donation of money will be highly appreciated.
In the gompas there will often be large statues of forms
of Buddha. Tibetan believe that the Buddha and reincarnated many times.
There are also prayer wheels, rice offerings, and lamps with ghee
(clarified butter) in them.
In all the gompas there are interesting mural paintings
and sometimes there are thangkas, which are painted on a cotton material.
Subjects of the paintings include pastimes of the Buddha, important
lamas, deities and mandalas.
During ceremonies then are usually chanting a sacred
texts, often along with the playing of musical instruments. Trumpets
play and drums pound and cymbals bang. Often the instruments are not
played in a systematic musical way. Often there is an uplifting effect.
Gompas
There are over 30 gompas in the area. Each of the four main Tibetan
Buddhist sects has at least two gompas in Bodhnath. North each of
the monasteries has a morning and evening puja.
Dilgo Kyentse’s Gompa is one of the most interesting monasteries
at Boudhanath.
Sakyapa
Gompa
This gompa is directly on the west side of the stupa. There is a beautiful
Tara covered in colorful embroideries. There is a huge prayer wheel
left of the entrance and some nice paintings.
Kargyupa
Gompa
It is also known as the Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling Monetary. It has some
large thangkas and some nice painting. It is a large white gompa that
you enter on the left side of the metal gate. The friendly lama speaks
English. There is an annual seminar studying Vajrayana, usually for
two weeks in October.
Gelugpa
Gompa
Northeast of the stupa is popular place with worshippers.
Chinya
Lama Gompa
This gompa is on the right down the road that goes north from the
stupa. It is named after a lama that was trained in China.
Nyingmapa
Gompa
This is one of the more interesting gompas and it has a good number
of monks. It is a large reddish color monastery design after a gompa
in Tibet. It is well decorated inside by artist from Bhutan. It was
constructed in 1984.
Sakyapa
Gompa
The gompa is northeast of the stupa. It is not so interesting from
the outside, but the main rooms with well-decorated and richly gilded.
There are some really good paintings.
Festivals
The Tibetan New Year, known as Losar, is in February. This is the
biggest and most crowded festival of the year. Masked dances are performed
and long copper horns are sounded. There is procession in which lamas
carry a picture of the Dalai Lama around the stupa.
Practical Information
There is a place to change money near the entrance to the stupa. The
Nabil Bank is on the main road, about half a km from the stupa.
The Kunphen Tibetan Medical Centre, in the Boudhanath Guest House,
just across from the entrance of the stupa, prescribes Tibetan medicine.
High Himalaya (472051) does E-mail and faxes. Dharma Book Centre,
within the stupa compound, sells books about Buddhism and Tibet. The
Tibetan Medical Centre, near the entrance to the stupa, prescribes
natural Tibetan medicine.
A good time to come is in the late afternoon after many of the tourists
have left and it is basically a Tibetan town. During this time prayers
are performed in the Tibetan monasteries.
Shopping
There are several shops selling Tibetan items near the stupa. Often
prices are above average so it is necessary to bargain. Often genuine
Tibetan antiques can be found in the shops here.
The Tibet Musical Cultural Center, on the north side of the stupa,
sells traditional musical instruments, Tibetan incense, monk’s
clothing, Tibetan dresses, and prayer flags.
The Tibet Book Centre, in front of the Hotel Tibet International,
sells books on Buddhism.
Where to Stay
There is a good selection of places to stay in the area, and it is
a nice area to stay overnight. It is best to avoid the places on the
noisy main road.
Peace Guest House, near the entrance of the stupa, is a really basic
place that has dorm beds for Rs 100.
Lotus Guest House (472-320, 472-432; fax 478-091), east of the stupa,
behind the Dobsang Monastery, has clean, basic rooms with common bath
for 200/300 and with bath for Rs 250/350. It is well-located, peaceful,
has a pleasant garden, and is a good value.
Dragon Guest House (479-562; fax 486-744), to the left of the stupa,
has clean comfortable rooms for Rs 250/ 400. It has a good atmosphere
and good views. It is a friendly place and is often full.
Bir Restaurant (470-790), on the main road just west of the stupa,
has rooms for Rs 250/300.
Kailash Guest House (480-741), on the road going north from Sakyapa
Gompa, is a friendly place with basic rooms with common bath for Rs
175/225 and with bath for Rs 300.
Snowlion Lodge, on the main road 500m east of the stupa, has rooms
for Rs 250/300.
Maya Guest House (470-266), on the main road east of the stupa, has
a nice garden and rooms for $30.
Happy Valley Guest House (471-241; fax 471-876), north of the stupa,
has a great view of the stupa from the roof terrace and is well-managed.
The comfortable rooms are $25/40.
Hotel Padma (479-052; fax 481-550), near the stupa, has large, comfortable
rooms with bath, TV and phone for $22/30. Often 25% discounts can
be gotten. Rooms face inside and do not have views.
Stupa Hotel (470-400), past of the Maya, is a well-managed place.
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, 1km west of the stupa, is a new five-star
luxury hotel.
Where to Eat
Stupa View Restaurant, on the third floor of a building on the north
side of the Boudhanath Stupa, has brown rice, pizzas, pastas and Greek
salad, among other things on its menu. It has a great view and a roof
terrace. It is mainly vegetarian Low to medium.
SV Terrace Restaurant, next door, is less expensive and not as good.
Ristorante Italiano La Calabria, next to the stupa, has good Italian
food. It has good views form its rooftop location. Rs 130 to Rs 200
for a main courses.
Double Dorjee Restaurant, on the main road east of the stupa, is a
popular place to sit around. It has good Tibetan and Western food
including good apple pie.
Om Shanti, next to the stupa, has cheap Tibetan (Rs 30 for a dish)
and Indian (Rs 40 to Rs 100).
Bir Restaurant, on the main road west of the stupa, is a popular cheap
place.
Land of Snows Restaurant, with a view of the stupa, has good Tibetan
and Indian food. Rooftop seating.
Steed Restaurant has cheap Tibetan food.
Travel
Bus #2 comes here every half-hour from City bus stand in Kathmandu
(1 hr, Rs 5). Tempos depart from Kantipath to here near the RNAC office.
Tempos #2 come here from near the GPO.
A taxi from Thamel is around Rs 75. It is easy to ride a bike to here
from Thamel, but the main road can be very polluted. It is a short
pleasant walk from Pashupatinath to Bodhnath. Greyline organizes a
tour to here that also stops in Pashupatinath and sometimes at Swayambhunath.
