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Lucknow

Pop: 1,900,000 Area Code: 0522

Lucknow is the capital of Uttar Pradesh. It used to be the capital city of the Nawabs of Oudh (Avadh), who were Muslim rulers who controlled a part of north-central India after the decline of the Mughal Empire, for about a century from 1724 to 1856. Most of the important monuments are from that period.

In 1856 the British annexed Oudh, exiling the then Nawab Wajid Ali Shah with an annual pension of 120,000 pounds. The annexation was one of the reasons for the Indian Uprising in 1857, in which the British residents held out in the Residency. After 87 days Sir Henry Havelock broke through to relieve the besieged British, only to be surrounded again for two more months. The hole-marked ruins of the Residency and the mausoleums of the Nawabs, are interesting tourist sites.

Getting Your Bearings
Lucknow Junction railway station is in the southwest part of the city. In the center of the city is the Hazratganj area, where most of the hotels and the main shopping area are located. Most of the interesting monuments are in the northwestern part of the city, near the Gomti River.

Tourist Office and Tours
The Tourist Office (226-205), 10/4 Station Rd, is down an alley, opposite the Hotel Kohinoor (daily except Sun 10 am to 5 pm). You can get tourist information at the Hotel Gomti from UP Tours (211-463), which runs a half-day tour (Rs 50) of the city starting at 9.30 am. They pick up passengers at the railway station and certain hotels. There is a helpful tourist counter at the Charbagh railway station.

GMVN (387-349), 432/4 New Civil Lines, Old Hyderabad, gives information about, and organizes tours to, the Garhwal mountain area of UP. KMVN (235-903), 2 Gopal Keral House, Sarojini Naidu Marg, gives information about, and organizes tours to, the Kumaon mountain area of UP.

Information
The State Bank of India, Ashok Marg, in Hazratganj, and also a branch on Moti Mahal Marg, change money. Punjab National Bank, Ashok Marg, Hazratganj. Bank of Baroda, MG Rd.

Universal Bookseller, 82 Hazratganj, and the British Bookshop, opposite Universal, are decent bookshops. Ram Advani, near the Mayfair Cinema, is a good book shop.

The British Council Library (242-144), near the Mayfair Cinema in Hazratganj, is open Tue to Sat 10.30 am to 6.30 pm.

Foreigners’ Registration Office (280-635), 5th Floor, Jawaharlal Bhavan, Ashok Marg. They may extend a 3 month visa to 6 months.

The Residency
The Residency, built for the British residents in 1800, is where some of the most dramatic events of the “Indian Uprising of 1857” took place. It is a group of ruined buildings in a secluded park.

In June of 1857 Indian soldiers in the East India Company’s army revolted and besieged the Lucknow British community and some loyal Indians. The Residency, which was the stone mansion of the East Indian Company’s agent in Avadh was where about 3,000 men, women and children were trapped. After 87 days Sir Henry Havelock came to rescue the people trapped in the Residency, but he and his troops also got trapped inside. A month and a half later, Sir Colin Campbell came and broke the siege on November 17, 1857. Only about 980 of the original people trapped in the Residency survived. The Residency has been kept the same as when the final relief came. Cannon shots scar the walls.

You enter the park where the Residency is located through Baillie Gate. You then pass some buildings that were used as hospitals and armories during the siege. After a few minutes walk you come to the Residency building. In front of it is a monument to Sir Henry Lawrence, who got all the British together in the Residency. He was killed four days later. In the cellars you can see where many of the women and children lived.

In the Model Gallery is a miniature version of the complex. There are also weapons and old prints. The Indian Martyrs’ Memorial, directly opposite the Residency, honors the Indian soldiers who died in the siege.

There is a cemetery where 2,000 men, women, and children were buried during the siege. It is located down near the river.

The museum is open daily from 9 am to 5.30 pm; admission Rs 2 except on Friday when it is free. Single women should be careful while walking around the park.

Bara (Big) Imambara Area
Construction of the Bara Imambara was started as a famine relief project during the great famine by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1784. An imambara is a replica of a tomb of one of the imams, descendants of Muhammad, who are revered by Shi’ite Muslims. Bara means “big.” This place is noted for its huge size. The central hall is 50m long, 15m wide and 15m high and has domes and arches in it. It is one of the largest vaulted chambers (without supporting pillars) in the world.

The upper floors are known as the Bhulbhulaiya, which is a maze-like labyrinth that covers several floors. There is a rule that couples must take the services of a guide. It has formal gardens. It is open daily except during Muharram 8 am to 6.30 pm. There is a Rs 10 fee to enter the Bhulbhulaiya, which also gets you into the Picture Gallery, Rumi Darwaza, the bauli and Shahihammam.

To the right of the entrance gate of the Imambara is the large Asaf-ud-Daula’s Mosque built by Asaf-ud-Daula. It is closed to non-Muslims. Across from the mosque is the bauli, which is an old step-well, which is surrounded by a five-storey tower. The ticket to the Bhulbhulaiya allows you to enter.

On the street next to the entrance to the Bara Imambara is Rumi Darwaza, which is a large gate built by Asaf-ud-Daula. There is a good view of the Gomti River from on top of it. It is supposed to be a replica of the Sublime Porte gate in Istanbul. The Bhulbhulaiya ticket allows you to enter and climb to the top of it.

If you go through the Rumi Darwaza Gate, you then come to the Husainabad Clock Tower, which at 67m is the tallest clock tower in India. Next to the clock tower is the Husainabad Tank. Next to the tank is the summer house (baradari) built by Ali Shah. Inside is a Picture Gallery, which has portraits of the Nawabs of Avadh. Open Mon to Sat 7 am to 7 pm. The Bara Imambara ticket gets you in.

Chota (Small) Imambara
It is also known as the Husainabad Imambara. It was built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah in 1837 as a famine relief project as his mausoleum. Muhammad Ali Shah and his mother are buried inside the main building. It has a big gold dome and inside there are many glass chandeliers, mirrored walls, and a silver throne, which was used to read the Koran. Open 6 am to 5 pm.

In the large courtyard are attempted copies of the Taj Mahal on either side of the Imambara. One is the tomb of Muhammad Ali Shah’s daughter and the other is her husband’s. Each year during the Muharram festival the Chota Imambara is lit up.
The Satkhanda (Seven-Storey Tower) is a watchtower, across from the Chota Imambara. It is actually only four-storeys, because it wasn’t finished after Ali Shah died in 1840.

Jama Masjid and Area
Jama Masjid is the biggest mosque in Lucknow, but is closed to non-Muslims. You can come to the doorway and see its painted ceiling of fruits and leaf patterns. The construction of this mosque was begun by Muhammad Ali Shah and was finished after his death. This place is around the corner, west of the Chota Imambara.

Satsang Bhavan
This is a satsang hall (381-189; fax 388-578) maintained by some of his Western students of HWL Poonja (1910–1997), also known as Papaji. Poonjaji was a follower of Ramana Maharshi, who lived in Tiruvannamalai. Videotapes of Poonjaji’s satsangs are shown daily in the morning and evening. It is possible to visit Poonjaji’s house, which is located about 2km away.

There are several places to stay in the area and there is a good vegetarian restaurant on the roof of Satsang Bhavan. Satsang Bhavan is located in the Indira Nagar area, Sector A. If you takes a tempo here you go to Shalimar Crossing, from where Satsang Bhavan is a few minutes walk.

Holidays
During the Lucknow Festival (Nov 25 to Dec 5) there are parades, dance performances, classical music concerts, kathak dancing and ghazal.
Shi’ite Muharram is a major holiday here because Lucknow is a major Shi’ite city. Bara Imambara is the center for activities.

Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the hotels have 24 hour checkout. Many of the hotels near the railway station can be very noisy.
The railway Retiring Rooms are the best value in the station area. Dorm beds are Rs 50 and double rooms range from Rs 200 to Rs 250.
Mohan Hotel (454-216), near the railway station, has a range of cheaper rooms priced from Rs 300/400 and dorm beds for Rs 100 and an A/C dorm bed is Rs 125. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Mayur (451-824), opposite the station, has rooms for Rs 250/300 and Rs 600 with A/C.
Hardik Guest House (272-817), 16 Rana Pratap Marg, has clean comfortable rooms for Rs 350/450. It is a good place.
On the way to the Hazratganj area from the station is the Deep Hotel (236-521), which has rooms for Rs 200/250 and Rs 350/450 with A/C.
The nearby Hotel Raj is about the same.
Many of the cheaper hotels are in the Hazratganj area.
Chowdhury Lodge (241-911), 3 Vidhan Sabha Marg, down an alley by the GPO, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 150/175, and a room with an air-cooler for Rs 225/300. It is a popular place, is quiet, and has good-valued, nice rooms. Some rooms don’t have windows. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Ram-Krishna (280-380), 17/2 Ashok Marg, has relatively clean, air-cooled rooms with hot water for Rs 200/250 and A/C rooms for Rs 600. 24-hour checkout.
Baba Tourist Lodge (54357), by the Charbagh Railway Station, is a nice clean place with a range of cheaper rooms.
Capoor’s (223-958; fax 220-727), 52 MG Rd, in Hazratganj, has good rooms with bath for Rs 250/350, Rs 500 with air-cooling, and A/C rooms with TV for Rs 750. It is a suggested, older place with 24-hour checkout.
Ram-Krishna Guest House (272-472), Park Rd, has air-cooled rooms for Rs 250 and with A/C for Rs 600.
Avadh Lodge (282-861), 1 Ram Mohan Rai Marg, is an old place with a lot of atmosphere, but it is showing its age. It is in a quiet area of town. The rooms are Rs 250/350 and an A/C room is Rs 450/550.
The popular Hotel Elora (231-307), in the center of town at 3 Lalbagh, has rooms for Rs 255/300 and Rs 400/500. It is a good value.

Where to Stay—Middle and High
UP Tourism Hotel Gomti (220-624), 6 TB Sapru Marg, has large, clean, air-cooled rooms with hot water for Rs 350/400 and A/C rooms for Rs 700/800.
Hotel Kohinoor (217-693), 6 Station Rd, a km from the railway station, has modern, pleasant, clean rooms for Rs 650/850 with A/C.
Charans Hotel (247-212), 16 Vidhan Sabha Marg, is a mid-range place with a selection of rooms for Rs 400/500 and A/C rooms for Rs 600/700. Some rooms can be noisy.
Deep Avadh (216-521; fax 228-832), Amina­bad Rd, close to the station, is a new, modern place with rooms for Rs 300/350 and A/C rooms for Rs 500/550. It has a good restaurant.
Carlton Hotel (244-021; fax 229-793) Shah Najaf Rd, in the Hazratganj area, was once a palace and has a large relaxing garden. It is popular with foreigners and is often full. Rooms are Rs 600/700 and Rs 900/1150 with A/C. It is a pleasant place to stay.
Arif Castles (231-313), 4 Rana Pratap Marg, has comfortable rooms for Rs 1500/1700
Hotel Clarks Avadh (216-500; fax 216-507), 8 Mahatma Gandhi Marg, is one of the best hotels in Lucknow. The rooms are Rs 3200/3500 and suites are Rs 6000. It does not have a pool. It has a very good restaurant
Taj Mahal Hotel (393-939; fax 392-282), in Gomti Nagar, east of the downtown, has comfortable rooms for Rs 2800/3800. It is a newly built place with a pool and a nice garden. It has a restaurant serving very good Lucknow cuisine.

Where to Eat
Ritz Continental, by the Hotel Ram-Krishna, is a good vegetarian place that serves Indian food, Chinese, and pizza.
On the same road, right next to each other, at Vinay Palace, 11 Ashok Marg, are two high-class vegetarian restaurants, the Viranjan and Ruchika. Both of these places are very good.
Muman’s Royal Cafe, MG Rd, next to Capoor’s, has good Indian and Chinese food. The service is good. It is one of the best restaurants in the area.
Capoor’s Hotel, 52 MG Rd, in Hazratganj, has a good restaurant.
Indian Coffee House, MG Rd, is a friendly place serving snacks.
The rooftop Falaknuma, at the Hotel Clarks Avadh, has good Lucknow cuisine. There are good views from this restaurant.
Cheadi Lal Ramprasad Vaish, MG Rd, has good juices and ice cream
Spicy Bite, Tulsi Theatre Building, has pizzas and sandwiches.
Hong Kong, Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Hazratganj, is a popular place with good Chinese food.
The Carlton Hotel has a good restaurant on the lawn.

Local Travel and Travel Agencies
A rickshaw from the railway station to Hazratganj should be about Rs 15. Tempos travel between fixed destinations for around Rs 2.
Some travel agencies are UP Tours (232-659), Hotel Gomti, 6 Sapru Marg; and Travel Corporation of India (227-773), 3 Shah Najaf Marg. You can rent a taxi for the day from UP Tours at the Hotel Gomti, and the Hotel Clarks Avadh. Tornos (380-610), C-2016 Indira Nagar, is an established travel agent.

Travel
Air The airport (256-130) is 15km south of the downtown. A taxi to the airport cost Rs 200. The Indian Airlines office (240-927, information 142; Airport: 436-327) is at the Hotel Clarks Avadh. Jet Airways (239-612; Airport: 434-009); Sahara (323-126; fax 222-623).

There are flights to Delhi (4 daily, $125), Varanasi (1 daily, $70), Calcutta (2 daily, $150), Patna (2 daily, $100) and Mumbai (2 daily, $235).

Train There are two main stations next to each other in the Charbagh area—Luck­now and Lucknow Junction. The Shatabdi Exp goes to Delhi (6½ hr) via Kanpur (1½ hr). There are regular trains to Delhi (7 to 9 hr). There are trains to Agra (8 hr), Gorakhpur (6 hr), Mumbai (30 hr), Calcutta (23 hr), Faizabad (3 hr), Allahabad (4½ hr), and Varanasi (7 hr). There are overnight trains xe "Lucknow" to Haridwar (13 hr) and Agra (7 hr).

Bus There are two bus stations—Kaiserbagh, which is in the center of town and Charbagh, which is near the railway stations.

From Kaiserbagh there are buses to Faizabad (for Ayodhya, 3 hr), Delhi (12 hr), Gorakhpur (7 hr), and Sunauli (11 hr). To get to Naimisaranya, you take a three-hour local bus from Kaiserbagh Bus Stand.

From the Charbagh station there are early morning and evening buses to Varanasi (9 hr) and Agra (10 hr). Buses also go to Allahabad (6 hr), and Kanpur (2 hr).

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