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Allahabad

Pop: 1 million Area Code: 0532

Allahabad is one of the oldest cities in India. It is located 135km west of Varanasi, at the confluence (“prayag”) of India’s two most important rivers—the Yamuna and Ganges. It is 585km southeast of Delhi and 160km south of Ayodhya. The main spiritual reason for coming here is to take bath in the Sangam, or confluence (where rivers meet), of the Yamuna, Ganges, and the underground Saraswati Rivers. It is one of the major pilgrimage sites in all of India.

Lord Brahma performed the Prakrista Yajna here. That is how it received its ancient name, Prayag. Allahabad is also called Tirtha-Raja, or “king of all the holy places.” It is said that Lord Rama visited Allahabad when he was in exile.

This city received the name Allahabad during the rule of Akbar. Eventually the Maratha took control of Allahabad. It was then later sacked by the Pathans. In 1801 it was ceded to the British by the Nawab of Avadh. After the Uprising of 1857, the East India Company handed over the control of India to the British government at Allahabad in 1858.

Getting Your Bearings
Allahabad is divided into two main areas, divided by the railway line. The area south of the railway line is the old city and the area north is the Civil Lines area, which has a grid design. Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd in the Civil Lines area has hotels, restaurants, and shops on it.

The confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna, along with the Fort, are located about 5km southeast of the main area of the city, in a relatively secluded location. This is where the Kumbha Mela is held.

Information
The Tourist Office (601-873) is at the UP Tourist Bungalow (601-040), 35 Mahatma Gandhi Rd (MG Road), by the bus stand (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm).

You can change money at the State Bank of India, Police Lines.

The Indian Airlines agent is SAS Travels (623-598).

Some travel agencies are Varuna Travels (624-323), Maya Bazaar, MG Marg and Krishna Travel (605-536), 936 Daraganj. They rent out cars for about Rs 500 a day.

Foreigners’ Registration Office, 2A Mission Rd, Katra.

The GPO is on Queen’s Rd. Postal Code: 211011.

There is a place to get on the Internet for Rs 50 per hour, right next to Tandoor Restaurant on MG Road, Civil Lines.  

Bookshops
There are a few decent book shops on Mahatma Gandhi Rd, close to the Hotel Harsh. Right next to each other are the Universal Book Store and Chugh Publication. None of them are very good. Vohra Book Shop, 36 MG Rd, is two blocks from the Tourist Bungalow.

Sangam Bath
This is where the Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati meet. This place is considxe "Sangam" ered to be the most important holy bathing place in India. The muddy-colored Ganges is shallower and more rapid. The Yamuna is bluer and deeper. The most auspicious time to bathe in the Sangam is during Kumbha Mela. It is also especially auspicious to bathe here during the month of Magh (Jan-Feb). This festival is called Magh Mela.

To get to the place where you get the boat to the Sangam is a Rs 20 bicycle-rickshaw ride from the downtown area. Ask to go to the Sangam, which is on the same side of the Fort as the Bare Hanuman Temple.

Most people take a boat out to the middle of the river and bathe from a platform there. You can also walk from the road about 10 minutes and bathe on the shore. There are many boats here and the boat ghat located here is closest to the Sangam. You can take a boat with other people that will cost Rs 6 to Rs 20 per person, depending on how many people you go with. A private boat to the Sangam is Rs 40 to Rs 100.

When you reach the Sangam, your boat docks on a little platform in the middle of the river. There is a good chance that a pandit (priest) will jump on your boat and start doing puja (worship) for you and your family. He will then expect anywhere from Rs 10, to Rs 500, to who knows what. My understanding is that there is a small docking fee at these platforms, from Rs 1 to Rs 50 depending on who you are (how rich you look). The boat ride and bath takes about 40 minutes to an hour, and it is an enjoyable experience.

You can also get a boat from Sara­swati Ghat and the other ghats along the river, but they are much further away and therefore more expensive. This is the way to go, if you want a nice peaceful boat ride.

Kumbha Mela
Kumbha Mela is held here every 12 years. It also takes place in three other holy places in India every 12 years— Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik. The Kumbha-mela in Prayag (Allahabad) is considered especially auspicious. This very interesting event draws about 15 million people and is the largest attended event in the world. The next Kumbha Mela in Allahabad is in January 2001.

There are several especially auspicious bathing days. A huge temporary city is created for the millions of pilgrims that arrive for the most auspicious bathing days.

Every 6 years there is an Ardha Mela (half mela), which draws about 7 million people. Each year there is a regular Mela during the month of Magh, January-February, which draws one or two million people. One of the most auspicious bathing days is Amavasya, the new moon day.

Kumbha Mela is like a “Yogi Convention,” where yogis, sadhus (saints), holy people, and pilgrims come from all over India. Many sadhus come from various holy places, the most remote forests, and mountain caves in the Himalayas. The most famous are the Naga Babas, Siva worshipers who are completely naked. They cover their bodies only with ash and wear their hair in dreadlocks.
On the most auspicious bathing days there is a big parade, and the bathing order is very strictly observed. Not only are there especially auspicious days, but there are especially auspicious times of the day to bathe, and people are willing to die to bathe at the most auspicious time. The first to enter the water are the Naga Babas, who arrive dancing with enthusiasm. Then each different religious group enters the water in a prearranged order.

Hanuman & Adi Shankara Temples
Hanuman is in a reclining posture, a few feet below the ground, instead of his usual standing posture. It is said that every year the Ganges floods until it touches the sleeping Hanuman’s feet and then it starts receding. This temple is located by the Sangam side of the Fort and is a small busy temple open to non-Hindus.

There are nice carvings on the nearby Sri Adi Shankar Temple, which has a Sri Tirupati Balaji Vishnu Deity.

Fort
Akbar built this huge fort on the Yamuna River by the Sangam in 1583. Inside the fort there is an 11m (35 ft) high Ashoka Pillar that dates back to 230 BC. The fort is in the control of the army, so unless you get advance written permission, you cannot enter. It is a huge fort that cost 25 million rupees to build and took over 45 years to complete. You can get an impressive view of the fort from a boat on the river.

Patalpuri Temple (Undying Tree)
It is located through a small doorway, in the wall of the fort, on the way to the boats that go to the Sangam. It is an underground temple with many different deities carved in stone.

The Akshayavata Tree (“the Undying Banyan Tree”) is said to never die, even when the entire world is destroyed. It is located in the underground temple. The tree is on a deep niche, above an underground hole that is said to lead to the Triveni.

It is said that both Lord Rama and Prahlada visited this interesting temple.

Bharadwaja Ashram
This ashram is mentioned in the Ramayana. Allahabad University now occupies the place where the ashram of Bharadwaja Rishi and his 10,000 disciples is said to have been located. There are temples here dedicated to Bharadwajeswara Mahadeva Siva, Rishi Bharadwaja, and Kali. It is said that Lord Rama and Sita visited this place when they began their 14-year exile.

Anand Bhavan
This is the former home of the Nehru family, which includes: Motilal Nehru, Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister, Indira Gandhi, and Rajiv Gandhi. It was donated to the Indian government by Indira Gandhi in 1970. It is a beautiful house with many of the family’s personal effects. You can see the bedroom and study of Nehru, and the room where Mahatma Gandhi stayed and worked when he visited. Open daily except Mon 9.30 am to 5 pm.

Next door is Swaraj Bhavan, which is where Indira Gandhi was born. This is where Motilal Nehru, the father of Jawaharlal Nehru, lived until 1930.

An audio-visual presentation in English and Hindi called The Story of Independence is shown daily except Mon from 11 am to 1.30 pm and from 2 to 4 pm; admission Rs 5.

In another building on the grounds is a picture exhibit detailing the life of Jawaharlal Nehru. There is a planetarium which has hourly shows between 11 am and 4 pm; admission Rs 8.

Allahabad Museum
This interesting museum has many old archaeological treasures and a collection of modern paintings. It has an interesting ivory Krishna-Arjuna on a carved sandalwood chariot in the Nehru collection. You can get a free guided tour of the museum if you ask at the desk where you check-in your bags. It takes about an hour to see the whole place. Open daily except Mon 10.30 am to 4.30 pm; Rs 2.

The house where Rudyard Kipling lived is nearby, but it is not open to the public.

Other Place to Visit
At Saraswati Ghat, on the other side of the fort from the Sangam, there is an Evening Arati performed to the Ganges, where lamps are floated down to the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna.

All Saints Cathedral has stained glass windows, a marble inlaid altar, and brass plaques for the British who lived in India, which tells how they died. It was designed by William Emerson, who also designed the Victoria Memorial in Calcutta. Open from 8 to 10 am. There are services on Sunday.

Khusru Bagh, near the railway station, is where the tomb of Prince Khusru, the son of Jahangir is located. He was executed by his father for trying to revolt against him a few times. Nearby is the tomb of his Hindu Rajput mother and the unoccupied tomb of his sister.

Near the Yamuna at Minto Park, Lord Canning read out the proclamation in 1858 declaring that the British government was taking control of India from the East India Company.

Nearby Places
At Ramchaura-Shringverpur (40km), on the bank of the Ganges, there is a platform called Ram Chabutara, which marks the spot where Lord Rama is supposed to have stayed before going to the forest in exile. It is said that before Lord Rama crossed the Ganges here, the boatman washed his feet. There are also temples dedicated to Panchmukhi (five-faced) Hanuman and Shring Rishi.

Lakshagriha (45km) is said to be the place where the house of lac of the Pandavas was located. A big mound marks this spot.

Where to Stay—Lower
South of the Allahabad Junction Station there are some cheap places, which are convenient if you have to catch a train.
Hotel Samira has rooms for Rs 100/125 with bath.
Hotel Continental (652-629), which is most likely the best of these hotels, has clean basic rooms with bath and a TV for Rs 175/200 and A/C rooms for Rs 450. 24-hour checkout.
N Cee (401-166), Leader Rd, south of the railway station, is a good well-managed place.
Hotel Prayag (604-430), south of the railway station, is a good place with rooms with common bath for Rs 100/125, Rs 150/200 with a bath, and Rs 550 with A/C room.
Hotel Tepso (623-635), by the railway station, has rooms for Rs 90/125, a deluxe room with bath for Rs 225/250, and an A/C room for Rs 300/350.
Hotel Samira (653-334; fax 609-663), 15 Dr Katju Rd, near the railway station, has rooms for Rs 350.
Hotel Kohinoor (400-033), 10 Noornulla Rd, has nice rooms for Rs 250/300 and with air-cooling for Rs 350/450. It has a garden.
Raj Hotel (400-684), 6 Johnstonganj, about a 20-minute walk from the railway station, has rooms with bath for Rs 125/150 and with A/C for Rs 350.
UP Tourist Bungalow (601-440), 35 MG Marg, Civil Lines, next to the bus station, is a good place to stay as long as you do not get a room on the bus station side or front side of the hotel, as they can be noisy. Good-sized rooms are Rs 225/275 and Rs 600/750 with A/C. It has dorm beds for Rs 40. For a middle income hotel, it is recommended.
If you like older places, the Hotel Harsh (622-197) is the place for you. It has large rooms with high ceilings, but is totally run-down. Rooms are Rs 175/200, but they are not a good value.
Hotel Twins (54554), 53 Leader Road, has rooms for Rs 200/225 with bath and Rs 450/500 with A/C.
Hotel Milan (56021), on Leader Road, has rooms with bath and windows in the hall for Rs 300/365 and Rs 440/500 with A/C. Leader Road can be noisy, as it is a busy street.

Where to Stay—Middle & High
There are no luxury hotels in town.
Samrat Hotel (604-888; fax 604-987) is near the intersection of Mahatma Gandhi Rd and Sardar Patel Marg. It has clean rooms for Rs 600/800 and Rs 750/1000 with A/C.
Funara Hotel, Hasting Rd, near the railway station, has a nice small garden, and has good rooms for Rs 900. It is a well-managed family-run place.
The popular, modern Hotel Yatrik (601-713; fax 601-434), 33 Sardar Patel Marg, has comfortable rooms for Rs 750/800 and Rs 1000/1200 with A/C. It is well-managed, and has a pool and a nice garden. Non-guest may be able to use the pool. 24-hour checkout.
The two-star Hotel Allahabad Regency (601-519; fax 600-450), 16 Tash­kent Marg, Civil Lines, is a well-managed place with a pool, jacuzzi, gym and a good garden. It has comfortable rooms with A/C for Rs 700/900. It is a peaceful place and is a good value.
The comfortable two-star Presidency Hotel (623-308; fax 623-897), 19D SN Marg, is north of Civil Lines in a quiet area. It has modern, clean A/C rooms for Rs 950/1000. It has a swimming pool and is popular, so it is best to book a room here in advance.

Where to Eat
Spicy Bite, MG Rd, has good Chinese food.
Shamiana, MG Rd, has South Indian food and good noodles.
RR’s has Indian food for around Rs 50 for a main dish.
El Chico, MG Rd, Civil Lines, has good Indian, Western, Chinese, baked goods and sweets. Main dishes are between Rs 50 and Rs 80. It is one of the best places in town.
Hot Stuff, 15 Elgin Rd, Civil Lines, is a Western fast-food type place serving pizzas, Chinese, and a wide range of ice creams.
Tandoor, MG Marg, serves Indian food. Main dishes are around Rs 60. It is one of the best places in town.
Jade Garden, MG Marg, Civil Lines, has good Chinese food.
Purohit Restaurant is just off Leader Road in the Johnstonganj area, in the south section of town. It is a good, clean vegetarian place with reasonable prices.

Local Travel
A bike-rickshaw from the railway station to Civil Lines is about Rs 5. A rickshaw from the railway station to the Sangam is around Rs 15 and from Civil Lines to the Sangam is Rs 20. From MG Rd to Anand Bhavan is Rs 10.

If you want to get to Civil Lines you should take the north, (back) entrance of the railway station.

Travel
Air There are no flights from Allahabad. The nearest airport is in Varanasi. The Indian Airlines office (624-105) is at Tashkent Marg, Civil Lines.

Train  Allahabad has four railway stations. The main train station is Allahabad Junction, in the center of town. Allahabad is on the broad gauge route between Delhi and Calcutta, so many express trains stop here. There are express trains to Delhi (10 hr, 2 daily), Calcutta (15 hr, 3 daily), Lucknow (4 hr), Mumbai (24 hr), and Satna (4 hr) for Khajuraho. The Patna-Kurla Exp departing Allahabad to Satna at 7.40 am is a good train to get, as you can immediately get a bus to Khajuraho.

Most trains for Varanasi leave from the Allahabad City Station at Ram Bagh, which is a metre gauge line. The 135km trip takes three or four hours.
Bus There are buses to Varanasi that take 3½ hours from the Civil Lines (MG Marg) bus stand, by the Tourist Bungalow. There are also buses to Gorakhpur (8 hr), Agra, Sunauli (11 hr, 3 daily), and Faizabad (4½ hr) for Ayodhya. At 3 pm there is a deluxe bus to Lucknow (5 hr).
Buses to Jhansi and Satna leave from the Leader Rd bus stand, which is besides the railway station. Buses to western destinations such as Lucknow, Kanpur, Agra, and Delhi depart from this station.
Buses to Chitrakut, Satna, and Mahoba depart from the Zero Road bus stand. Beside the government buses to Chitrakut you can get higher quality private buses from the local travel agencies.

Around Allahabad

Kausambi, 65km southwest of Allahabad, has ruins of an ancient city dating to the time of the Buddha. There is an Ashoka Pillar. You can get a bus from Allahabad to nearby Serai Akil.
Bhita, 19km south of Allahabad, is the site of ruins of an ancient city dating to 320 BC. There is a museum with statues, coins and seals.

Garwha, around 45km from Allahabad, has well-carved temples dating from the Gupta period. From the closest town it is about a 3km walk.

If you know of a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update our listings, please e-mail us at:

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