Rishikesh

Located 24km from Haridwar and 245km northeast of Delhi is Rishikesh, where the clear Ganges leaves the Himalaya Mountains. Rishikesh is a good place to stay for a while during the hot months of April to August. It has a peaceful atmosphere and is a hassle-free place with cheap accommodations and good eating places. It is a recommended place to visit.

Rishikesh is famous as a place to study yoga and meditation, and there are many ashrams here. It is not nearly as crowded with pilgrims as is Haridwar. Many foreigners come here, and many of them stay in ashrams to learn yoga. It became famous when the Beatles came here in the 60s with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi.

It is said that Bharata, the brother of Lord Rama, did severe penance here. A temple of Bharata was constructed at this site, and the town of Rishikesh grew up around it. The town got its name when Raibhya Rishi performed tapasya (austerities) here. Lord Hrishikesh (another name for Lord Vishnu) came before him and granted him darshan. Lord Vishnu is said to have killed the two demons Madhu and Kaitabha here.

Rishikesh is where most pilgrims begin their Char Dham pilgrimage of going to Badrinath, Kedarnath, Yamunotri, and Gangotri. Rishikesh is at the meeting point of the Ganges and Chandrabhaga Rivers.

Orientation
There are three main sections of Rishikesh. There is the downtown area, which is where the bus station, the railway station and several hotels and restaurants are located. The two other areas of town—Swag Ashram (also called Rama or Sivananda Jhula, 1km north), which is located on the eastern side of the Ganges, and Laksman Jhula (2km north)—are much more peaceful and are where most long-term Westerners stay. Most of the religious spots are along the banks of the Ganges between the main area of town and Laksman Jhula.

Information
There is a Tourist Office (30209) on Railway Station Rd. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm.
GMVN (30372), Muni-ki-Reti, between the downtown and Shivanand Jhula on Laksman Jhula Rd, runs buses and tours to the pilgrimage places in the north. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm; closed 1 to 2 pm.

The main tourist season (especially for Indians) is May and June. September and October are also crowded. During July and August it rains a lot, and from December to early March it is fairly cold. During late March and early April the weather is perfect, warm during the day and cool at night.

Baba Health and Massage Centre (433-339), 100m east of the Hotel Shivlok, near the downtown, offers good Ayurvedic, shiatsu or Swedish massages for Rs 150. The man who does the massages is professional and this place is recommended. You can also take lessons for Rs 1,000 for an hour a day for a week.

Most of the shops in the downtown are closed on Thursday.

Ganga Emporium and Cafe, next to the Laksman Jhula bridge, has a good bookshop with an excellent selection of spiritual books.

Money
The State Bank of India (30114), Railway Station Rd, near the Inderlok Hotel, changes most major travelers cheques. The Bank of Baroda, Dehra Dun Rd, near the Yatra bus stand, changes most travelers cheques. There is no place in the Swag Ashram or Laksman Jhula area where you can change money.

Travel and Trekking Agencies
Blue Hills Travels (431-865), Swarg Ashram area, arranges bus and taxi travel. They may not be totally straightforward in their dealings.
Ajay Travels, Hotel Nilkanth, arranges bus and taxi travel, and treks. Treks start at Rs 350 per day (three people minimum). They organize an 8-day trek to the Valley of Flowers, 10-day trek to Rup Kund Lake, and a 14-day trek to the Khatling Glacier.

Apex Tours, next to the GMVN office, Muni-ki-Reti, arranges treks, rafting, and rock climbing trips.

Triveni (433-979; fax 432-989), Shop No 1, opposite PNB, Haridwar Rd, arranges treks and Char Dham tours. They arrange white-water rafting for around Rs 600 for a day. They also arrange elephant safaris in Rajaji National Park and a walk in the 200m long Vishitha Gufa (cave).
The GMVN office (30372) arranges Char Dham packages and trekking tours. The GMVN Trekking and Mountaineering department (32648), hires out tents, sleeping bags, backpacks and other equipment.

UP Tourism, Kaudiyala area, arranges rafting packages for about Rs 600 a day, which includes rafting, meals and basic accommodation. From their office in Rishikesh, UP Tourism, arranges Char Dham tours.

Step Himalayan Adventures (432-581) offers white-water-rapid rafting trips on the Ganges for Rs 500 a person, which includes transportation and a 15km (3½ hr) rafting trip.

Bharata Temple
Despite the name, the presiding deity in this temple is Lord Narayana (Lord Vishnu), not Bharata, Lord Rama’s brother. It is a very old temple with a wall around it. It is located in the heart of Rishikesh, about a half-km from Triveni Ghat. There is an inscription on the temple that says Adi Sankaracharya renovated the temple. Open 5 to 11 am and 1 to 9 pm.

Laksman Jhula
Laksman Jhula is about 3km north of downtown Rishikesh. At this place Laksman, Rama’s younger brother, is said to have performed penance. There is a Laksman Temple here on the west bank of the river, by the bridge. It is said that near this temple, at Rishi Kund, Lord Rama and Laksman took bath to atone for the sin incurred for killing Ravana, who was a Brahmin. There is also a seven-storey temple housing diorama figures depicting spiritual subject matters.
There was a hanging jute rope bridge here until 1889. It was rebuilt with iron cables in 1939. This is a very peaceful area, but can be crowded during the day.

There is a nice peaceful area with a small sandy beach where you can bathe in the Ganges. It is just south of the bridge, on the other side of the river from the main part of town.

On the other side of the bridge there are interesting temples. The 13-storey Kailashanand Mission Ashram has a good view from the top floor. It has various deities on several floors.

There are nice, small waterfalls about 3½ km north of Laksman Jhula, on the east bank of the river. Not many people visit these waterfalls and they are a pleasant place to visit and to spend a couple hours. To get to the falls you walk north on the road from Laksman Jhula pass the Ganga View Restaurant. You can also take a jeep. After 3½ km you come to a few tea and cold drink stands. You then climb the hill for several minutes and there is a path leading to the falls. You can continue on the path for another minute to another small waterfall.

In between the Laksman Jhula bridge and the falls are several beaches where you can relax and swim at.

Places To See
Triveni Ghat, the main bathing ghat, is where the Ganges and the subterranean Yamuna and Saraswati are said to flow together. Dawn is a good time to come here, during which time people make offerings to the Ganges and feed the large fish here. Pinda sraddha, or offerings for the benefit of dead ancestors, is performed here. There is a daily evening Ganges Arati (offering of lamps) at around 6 pm. It is a well-attended, interesting event.

At Muni-Ki-Reti (abode of the Rishis) the Ganges emerges out of the Himalayan foothills. The Shatrugna Temple, Muni-ki-Reti, is about 4.5km from downtown Rishikesh. It is dedicated to Shatrugna, the youngest brother of Lord Rama.
The Balaji and Chandramouleswar Temple is constructed in the South Indian style. It is run by the same board that runs the temple in Tirupati, and the temple rituals are the same as at Tirupati. It is north of the Bharata Mandir past the Chandrabhaga River.

Neela Kantha Mahadeva Temple
Neela Kantha Mahadeva Temple is situated on a hill, 1,700m (5,500 ft) above sea level, and is about 11km from Laksman Jhula. This is an important Siva temple. Siva received the name Neela Kantha after he drank the poison produced from the churning of the Milk Ocean. After drinking the poison his throat turned blue. Neela means “blue” and kantha means “throat.”
It takes about four hours to walk to here from Laksman Jhula and less than two hours to walk back. If it is hot it is best to do this walk early in the day. The path to the temple starts behind Swarg Ashram and then goes past Mahesh Yogi’s ashram. There are regular shared jeeps to this temple from Laksman Jhula (Rs 35 a person or Rs 350 for the entire jeep). It is especially busy during July, which is said to be the time when Siva drank the poison. There is a holy tree here that women tie a string to as an offering in order to get blessed with a child.

From the Neela Kantha temple you can climb 2km to the Parvati temple, which is located on top of a high hill. From this temple another 2km further up the hill is a Cave (gufa), where there is a small temple. There are good views along the way. It is a fairly hard climb to the Parvati temple and a fairly easy walk to the cave.

Kunjapuri
It is a 10km walk to this Shakti temple, which is located on a hill north of Rishikesh. From this temple there are great views of the surrounding Himalayan countryside. To get here you can take a bus to Hindola Khal on the road to Tehri, and then from there it is a 3km walk. It is a 45 minutes bus ride from Rishikesh.

Yoga Ashrams
Sivananda Ashram was founded by Swami Sivananda (1887-1963), who is one of the most famous yogis of this century. It is now under Swami Chidananda and Swami Krishnananda. There are free yoga classes at the Shivananda Ashram at 7 am. There are regular darshans with Swami Krishnananda at around 10 am. To stay at the ashram, you have to write a few months in advance and get permission. The address is Divine Life Society PO Sivanandanagar, District Tehri Garhwal. Phone and fax: 431-190.

Saccha Dham Ashram The spiritual teachers at the ashram is Sri Hans Raj Swami, also known as Maharaj, and Shantimayi, who is an American women. During Shantimayi’s daily satsangs, there is usually enthusiastic chanting. When Shantimayi is in Rishikesh, Maharaj usually gives darshan at 10 am and there is satsang with Shantimayi present at 4 pm. The ashram is near the Laksman Jhula bridge.

Yoga Center This center (431-196) was established by Brahmacharya Rudra Dev, who studied under BKS Iyengar and was also a monk in the Sivananda Ashram. Hatha yoga classes at different levels are given in the Iyengar style. Three week courses are offered in February, April and September. From July to November there are several classes a day. Classes are free, but donations can be given. This place is in south Rishikesh on Haridwar Road in Koyelgati.

Ved Niketan offers a one-month intro yoga course. The one-month course has hatha yoga, pranayama, and Bhagavad Gita classes and different yoga processes are studied. There is meditation from 6.30 to 8.30 am, a lecture at 9.30 am and hatha yoga at 5 pm. Anyone can take part is the daily routines. There are around 100 rooms in the ashrams and if you stay here you do not have to go to the yoga classes.

Yoga Niketan There are meditation and hatha yoga classes offered here. It is possible for visitors to take part in the classes. To stay in the ashram, you have to attend the early morning and evening hatha yoga and meditation classes. It cost around Rs 150 daily, which includes meals and some courses. This ashram is on the hillside above the main road in Muni-ki-Reti and the Sivananda Ashram. The phone number is 430-227.

Mahesh Yogi Ashram near Ved Niketan offers courses on transcendental meditation. You have to write in advance to Mahesh Yogi Ashram, Sankaracharya Nagar, Rishikesh 249-201.
Omkarananda Ashram (431-473) near the Sivananda Arch, offers hatha yoga classes daily except Sundays at 5 pm. They also give classes on classical Indian music and dance.

Shopping
There are several shops in the Swarg Ashram area on the road along the Ganges, which sell religious tapes, books and beads, and clothes. Rishikesh is a good place to get Rudraksha beads.
Mahesh Yogi Ayurvedic Centre, Laksman Jhula Rd, is a good source of Ayurvedic medicines. There is an Ayurvedic doctor here.

Where to Stay
There are three areas of Rishikesh to stay—the main part of town, the more peaceful area north of town on the other side of the Ganges in Swarg Ashram, or at Laksman Jhula. Most of the places in the Swarg Ashram area are ashrams or fairly basic places. This is a good area to stay a week or two, especially during March, April, and during the hot summer months.

Vehicles do not go to the other side of the river. You either have to walk across the bridge or take a boat. You can hire porters on the other side of the river to carry your bags.

Where to Stay—Center City
Hotel Ashoka (30715), by the main bus stand, is a good place to stay if you have to get an early bus. Rooms with bath are Rs 100/125. Also the cheap Hotel Menka and Hotel Gaurev are by the bus stand.
Swiss Cottage, near the Chandrabhaga River, near the bridge and down some side streets, is a peaceful place with nine rooms built around a courtyard. It is popular with long-term stayers and is often full. You can cook here. It is a very good value with rooms for Rs 70.
Norwegian Cottage, nearby, has basic rooms for Rs 90.
Hotel Shivlok (432-055), Laksman Jhula Rd, near the bridge, is a good place with rooms with hot water and a TV for Rs 300/350 and Rs 400/600 with A/C.
Hotel Ganga Putra (433-341), 150/1 Swami Dayanand Ashram Marg, Chandreshwar Nagar, has good, clean rooms with hot water and a TV for Rs 400/500 and Rs 600/700 for an A/C room. They may give a discount.
GMVN’s Tourist Bungalow (430-373) is in a peaceful location by the ashrams. It has dorm beds for Rs 90 and rooms with bath for Rs 500/650 and Rs 200/250 with common bath. It has a good garden and cottages. It has been recommended to me as a good place to stay, but is a little out of the way.
Arvind Lodge, Yatra Bus Stand, is a decent, basic place, convenient for an early morning Char Dham Yatra bus. Double rooms are Rs 250.
Adarsh Hotel (455-101), next door, has rooms for Rs 200/140. Dorm beds are Rs 40. Both these places are about the same.
Surichi Hotel (430356), across from the Yatra Bus Stand, is a recommended mid-range hotel, convenient for an early morning Char Dham bus. Rooms are Rs 200/275 and Rs 275/375 for a deluxe air-cooled room. It has bucket hot water and a restaurant.
Baseraa Hotel (430-767), in the center of town close to Triveni Ghat, is a nice place, but the rooms are overpriced at Rs 500/600 and Rs 750/900 with A/C.
Inderlok Hotel (430-555), Railway Road, is a good place with comfortable rooms with a color TV for Rs 600/700 and Rs 900/1000 with A/C. It is better than the other mid-range hotels in the center of town and is a recommended place. It has a good vegetarian restaurant.
Gangotri Hotel (32239), across the street, is a bit run-down. Rooms are Rs 400/475, an air-cooled room is Rs 475/550 and an A/C room is Rs 650/750, but for the price it isn’t so bad.
Hotel Ganga Kinare, 2km south of the railway station, has a peaceful, beautiful location next to the Ganges with its own private ghat. It has comfortable rooms with central A/C for Rs 940/1140 and Rs 1040/1240 for a room with a good view of the Ganges. Rooms here are overpriced and it is fairly inconvenient to get to. It has a travel counter and restaurant.
Hotel Natraj (430-099) has a pool and charges Rs 1300/1600 for a room.
Nanda Tels Mandakini Rishikesh (30781), 63 Haridwar Rd, on the way to Haridwar, is a nice place with a vegetarian restaurant, pool, and health club. It has rooms for Rs 900/1000 during the off-season. During the peak season the same rooms are Rs 1600/1800.

Where to Stay—Swarg Ashram Area
This is a peaceful area, across the Ganges (on the east side), about two km north of the downtown. It is a popular place to stay with long-time stayers.
Ved Niketan, Swarg Ashram, is south of the bridge, on the east bank of the river. It is a very popular place among low-budget travelers. It is in a peaceful location and is good for a long stay. I would suggest that you ask to see a few rooms before you choose one. The very basic rooms are Rs 70 to Rs 120. The upstairs rooms have good views of the Ganges. There are daily yoga classes here, but you do not have to attend. They serve out basic meals for Rs 15.
Ban Prasth Ashram, next to Ved Niketan, has well-maintained rooms with bath for just Rs 150. It has pleasant grounds surrounded by a wall. There is a kitchen that can be used. It is a good value, but is totally booked except from Nov to March.
The popular Green Hotel (431-242), down a side street, is a good place in a quiet area. It has clean rooms for Rs 150/200 and larger rooms with air-coolers are Rs 350. You can get hot water in a bucket. It has a good restaurant.
Rama Guest House, near the Green Hotel, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 125.
There are several hotels near the Green Hotel, which are around the same price that you may also want to check out.
Hotel Rajdeep (432-826) has rooms with bath for Rs 225 and Rs 600 with A/C. It is one of the best hotels in the area.

Where to Stay—Laksman Jhula
This is a nice peaceful area to stay.
Sant Sewak Ashram is a recommended place that has a selection of rooms ranging from Rs 90 to Rs 200. The Rs 200 rooms are clean, modern, and have balconies directly above the Ganges. It is a peaceful place.
Bombay Kshetra has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 70/90 up to Rs 125. It is popular with partyers and long-time stayers on a budget. It is in a pleasant, older building and is built around a nice courtyard. People who stay here usually like it.
Harihara Peeth Ashram, next door, has basic rooms for Rs 80/120. There is a good view of the Ganges from the roof.
Hotel Ganga View (433-169) has ten fairly basic rooms with common bath for Rs 100 and a good-size room with a bath is Rs 200. There is a good view of the Ganges from the roof.
Ishan (433-271) has rooms for Rs 140/200.
Shikhar (433-817), Laksman Jhula Rd, on the west bank of the river, 500m from the bridge, has rooms for Rs 350 to Rs 600. It is clean and has a good view from the roof.
High Bank Peasants Cottage (431-167) has a nice flower garden and cottages with bath for Rs 350 to Rs 450. Hot water in a bucket. From the balcony you have a good view of the Ganges. They serve Indian meals. They can arrange treks and rafting. To get to this place you make a left, one-km before Laksman Jhula and go up the hill about 150m. It is a fairly hard walk to here from the Laksman Jhula Bridge.
Bhandari Swiss Cottage (432-676), about 30m above High Bank Peasants Cottage, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 125. It has good views and they supply meals.

Where to Eat
Meat, fish, eggs, and alcohol are prohibited here, so all the places are vegetarian. Some do serve eggs, even though they are not supposed to.

Laksman Jhula The Lucky Restaurant, east bank of the river, right next to the Laksman Jhula bridge, has good thalis for Rs 20.
Rishiraj Restaurant, opposite the post office, is run by a friendly Italian woman and her husband. This place has good Italian food and salads, but it is not cheap. Recommended.
Ganga Darshan Restaurant, across from Bombay Kshetra, has South Indian food and cheap thalis (Rs 20).
Ganga View, near by, has a nice terrace overlooking the Ganges. The food is fairly good and it is a good place to meet people. Cheap thalis in the evening.
Ganga Emporium and Cafe, next to the Laksman Jhula bridge, is a pleasant place to get a sandwich or snack and watch the world go by.
Sivanand (Swarg) Jhula Chotiwala, across the Shivanand Jhula Bridge, on the other side of the river, is the most popular place in town. It has a good menu at reasonable prices. A special thali is Rs 30. There is an A/C section upstairs that only serves individual orders.
Madras Restaurant, at the boat landing north of town, has good masala dosas and noodles.
Amrita, nearby, has real grilled cheese sandwiches, pancakes and Italian food. The guy who runs this place is an interesting fellow. You can also buy cheese and honey here.
Mukti’s Health Food Cafe has good burgers, cheese sandwiches, noodles, and ice cream.
There is an Italian Restaurant, just down the road from the Hotel Rajdeep, which is fairly good.
Shikar Hotel has a good restaurant.
In Town The Indrani Restaurant at the Hotel Inderlok is one of the better places in town. They serve Indian and Chinese food.
Baseraa Hotel is also good.
Neelam’s, off Haridwar Rd in the main part of town toward the bridge and Muni-ki-Reti, is frequented by young foreign travelers. It is cheap and the food is good. They have macaroni and other Western food.
Tripti Restaurant, in the Hotel Suruchi, is a good place.
Vaishal is popular with the locals.
A One Kwality, Kailash Gate, Muni-ki-Reti, has a good menu and breakfasts.
Moonlight Restaurant, Laksman Jhula serve high quality Continental, Meixcan, Israeli and Ayurvedic food. The owner is extremely helpful for answering question on the local area. Pleaant atmosphere and very good food.

Local Travel
There are regular vikrams (tempos) that run from Ghat Rd along Laksman Jhula Rd to Shivanand Jhula (Rs 4) and Laksman Jhula (Rs 6). You can only walk across Shivanand Jhula Bridge and Laksman Jhula Bridge to the other side of the river. You can also take a boat across at Shivanand Jhula. Boats cross to the Swarg Ashram side of the river from 8 am to 7 pm for Rs 4. You can hire porters on the other side of the river to carry your bags.

There are regular shared jeeps that run between Shivanand Jhula and Laksman Jhula on the other side of the river for Rs 4.

Vikrams, Taxis and Rickshaws
There are shared taxis from the bus stand in Rishikesh to Haridwar for Rs 25. There are also shared rickshaws (vikrams) to Haridwar, which can be gotten on Hari-dwar Rd. You can get a shared jeep (called a trekker) to Dehra Dun, anywhere on Dehra Dun Rd (Rs 15).

In Haridwar, if you walk across the bridge a few blocks from Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat, there are regular shared motor rickshaws (Rs 10 or Rs 100 for the entire rickshaw, 40-minute) that go to Rishikesh. These rickshaws go to the end of town, and from there you have to get another rickshaw to Shivanand or Laksman Jhula for Rs 3 or 4.

The office for the Taxi Operators’ Union (30413), is on Haridwar Rd, near Ghat Rd. The fixed off-season rate for Haridwar is Rs 300, Delhi Rs 1,500, Mussoorie Rs 600, Dehra Dun Rs 300, Uttarkashi Rs 1,500, and Ranikhet is Rs 2,000. The high season (summer) rate is 25% to 50% higher.

Travel
Train There is a train from Haridwar to Rishikesh, but the bus is a better way to go. From Haridwar you can get a train to Delhi and many other major cities. At the station in Rishikesh there is a limited quota of tickets available for trains departing from Haridwar. The office (%131) is open 10 am to 4 pm (closed 1.30 to 2 pm). There are trains (1 hr, Rs 5) to Haridwar at 6.40 and 9.15 am and 2.10, 3.15, and 6.40 pm (Rs 5).

Bus From the Main Bus Stand (30066) there are regular buses to Haridwar (every 30 min, 1 hr, Rs 9) and Dehra Dun (1½ hr, Rs 13). There are also direct buses to Delhi (6 hr). A private A/C deluxe bus (Rs 200) departs to Delhi, which can be arranged through a travel agent. Between 5 am and 10.30 pm there are buses every hour to Delhi (6 hr). Ordinary buses are Rs 60, semi-deluxe Rs 175 and super deluxe Rs 225. To get to Shimla you first have to go to Dehra Dun, where you will find many buses. At 8.15 am there is a bus to Ramnagar (6 hr) which then continues to Nainital (9 hr total).

The buses for the Garhwal Hills (Char Dham) depart from the Yatra Bus Stand, off Dehra Dun Rd. In the summer there are regular buses to Gangotri (250km, 12 hr, Rs 110), Uttarkashi (7 hr, Rs 70) Badrinath (297km, 13 hr, Rs 130), Gaurikund (near Kedarnath, 210km), Hanuman Chatti (for Yamunotri, 210km, 9 hr, Rs 97), and other pilgrimage places. It is best to get an early morning bus (5 or 6 am), as the buses do not travel at night in the mountains. If you get a later bus you will have to stop some where along the way for the night. You usually have to reserve these buses the night before (highly advised), or have a travel agent do it.

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