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Haridwar

Pop: 220,000 Area Code: 0133

Haridwar is on the west bank of the Ganges, at the foot of the Himalaya Mountains. Haridwar means “the gateway to Hari” (Lord Vishnu). It is also called Ganga-dwara, because the holy Ganges enters the plains here. This is one of the seven main holy cities in India. Hari­dwar is about 225km northeast of Delhi.

It is called Mayapuri Kshetra in the Puranas and it is a very ancient town. It is also called Kapilasthan, because it is said that Kapiladeva performed penance here. The great sacrifice of Daksha Prajapati took place near here, where Sati burned herself alive. Nearby, at Sapta Sarovara, the Ganges splits into seven streams to please the seven Rishis doing austerities there.

Haridwar is hot in the summer, but the Ganges’ water is always icy cold. The river is fed by melting glaciers and snow peaks. A barrage just north of Haridwar splits the Ganges. The water that flows next to the city of Haridwar is actually a fast-moving, big canal. The main natural rivulet of the Ganges, called Neel Dhara, flows about a half-km east of the city. The Ganges is known as the Ganga in India.

Haridwar is a fairly busy, fast-moving town. Most people stay here for a day or two and then move on to Rishikesh or some other place in the mountains. If you want a peaceful place to stay for a few weeks, most people prefer Rishikesh, but I have meet several people that preferred Haridwar for a long-term stay. Meat, fish, and all intoxication are banned in Haridwar.

Orientation
The railway station and UP Roadways bus stand are across from each other on the main road of town, Railway Rd, in the southwest part of town. Railway Rd (also known as Upper Rd) runs parallel with the Ganges Canal for about 2½ km where it comes to Hari-ki-Pairi, the main ghat in town. There are several budget and middle class hotels near the railway station. Railway Rd is a very busy street with shops, restaurants and hotels along it. South of Hari-ki-Pairi, running just parallel to the Ganges is the busy Bara Bazaar.
Just before the Ganges reaches Haridwar, it divides. The main branch goes southeast and the other branch goes southwest, by-passing Haridwar. When it goes through Haridwar it is called the Upper Ganges Canal.

Tourist Offices and Tours
The GMVN Tourist Office (424-240) is on the main street (Upper Rd) by the Lalta Rao Bridge (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). Char Dham tours can be booked there.

The UP Tourist Bureau (427-370) is in the Rahi Motel on Station Rd, near the bus stand. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm. There is also a tourist information booth at the railway station.

Sanjeev Mehta at Mohan’s Fast Food, Railway Rd, is a wealth of information and is very helpful.
There is a tour from Haridwar that goes to many places in Rishikesh starting at 9.30 am. It lasts about 8 hours. This can be arranged through one of the many tourist agents in Haridwar for about Rs 40. There is an overnight Haridwar-Rishikesh tour from Delhi that usually leaves every Wednesday and Saturday during the season. It departs at 7.15 am and returns 8 pm the next day. You book it at the Delhi Tourism Office (345-358), C/o Coffee House I, Baba Kharak Singh Marg, or at other Delhi Tourism offices around the city.

Information
The high seasons are in the summer, from May 15 to June 30, and during autumn, from September 15 to the last week of October. About 70% of the tourists and pilgrims come during the summer months. The full moon day during the month of November is very crowded.

You can change money at the State Bank of India (426-103), near Chitra Talkies Cinema on Sadhu Bela Marg. The Bank of Baroda, next to the Hotel Mansarovar only changes Thomas Cook and American Express US dollars and British pounds travelers cheques.

The post office is on Upper Rd (Station Rd). Next door on Station Rd is the Foreigners’ Registration Office.

Ashvani Travels (424-581; fax 423-656), 3 Upper Rd, organizes treks, white-water rafting (Sept to March), and ski trips to Auli (Jan and Feb). They rent equipment and can arrange guides and porters.

Arjun Singh Bookseller, Bara Bazaar, has travel, trekking and yoga books.

Note The local name for the Ganges is the Ganga, and most people only know it by this name.

Kumbha-mela
Haridwar is one of the four places where the xe "Kumbha-mela:Haridwar"Kumbha-mela is held, during which sadhus from all over India come. This takes place every 12 years. The other places where Kumbha-mela takes place are Allahabad (Prayag), Nasik, and Ujjain. It is said that some nectar from the kumbha (pitcher) carried by Jayanta (the son of Indra) fell at this place. Over 6 million people come here to the Kumbha-mela. The main bathing place is at Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat. I went to the 1998 Kumbha Mela. I found going on the main Maha Kumbha day to be a very pleasant event. It is highly recommended.

The next Kumbha-mela to be held here will be from February to May in 2010. Every six years Ardha Kumbha (half Kumbha) is held; the next being in 2004. The astrological timing of Kumbha-mela at Haridwar is when Jupiter is in Aquarius and the Sun is in Aries. There are several major bathing days, which fall on auspicious days and festivals, such as Siva-ratri, Amavasya and the Maha Kumbha day (the biggest day). On the main bathing days there is a parade at 12 noon that begins across the river from Hari-ki-Pairi, about a kilometre to the right. The parade is lead by the head of the Sankaracharya Mutts and then is followed by the Naga-babas first, and then the other sampradayas (religious groups). The members of the parade proceed to Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat and bathe there. During this time Hari-ki-Pairi is closed to the public.

Many people camp out at giant campgrounds across the river from Hari-ki-Pairi and at other areas covering several kilometres. On days other than the main bathing day there is not much happening at the camp sites and most people will not consider them worth visiting.

The festival extents from Siva-ratri, which is the appearance day of Lord Siva in Feb/March until the middle of May. Siva-ratri is the main day for devotees of Lord Siva and there is a big parade with many Naga-babas. The main time for Vaishnavas is during April and May. The main day is the Maha Kumbha day in April/May, when over a millions people come to bath. The main bathing place is at Hari-ki-Pairi and bathing for the public begins early in the morning and goes to around 11:30 am. At this time, Hari-ki-Pairi is closed so the sadhus can take bath from around 12 noon to 2 pm. After this, it is open again. When I watched the bathing from around 9 am to 2 pm everything was very orderly and not very crowded. It was a very well organized event.

On the main bathing days there are special trains that come from Rishikesh and Delhi. There are also many extra buses. There are two special bus stations set up a few kilometres from the downtown to the north (towards Rishikesh) and south (towards Delhi). Motor vehicles are not supposed to go past these points. I found it to be no problem to go between Rishikesh and Haridwar at 6:30 am on the main Maha Kumbha day, because of all the special transportation arranged. I took the train into Haridwar and the bus out. There was almost no traffic on the road. There are large crowds walking around the street, but I saw everything to be very orderly with no pushing or shoving and it was quite interesting. The crowds are spread out over several kilometres.

Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat (Brahma Kund)
Hari-ki-Pairi is located at the exact spot where the Ganges leaves the mountains and reaches the plains and is considered a very holy place.
The name Hari-ki-Pairi means “the feet of Hari (Lord Vishnu).” The footprints of Lord Vishnu are imprinted on the wall underneath the water at this ghat. You need to ask one of the priests to be able to touch it.

This ghat is also called Brahma Kund because it is said that Raja Shveta performed austerities here and received blessings from Brahma. Kumbha-mela is held here, as this is where the nectar fell. There are temples dedicated to the goddess Ganga and Haricharan here.

Every night at about 6 pm there is an arati (worship) to the sacred Ganges. The arati consists of an elaborate ritual of offering large lamps to the Ganges and the loud banging of gongs and playing of other instruments. It is a dramatic and interesting event.

Before starting their “Char Dham yatra,” pilgrims are supposed to come and bathe at this ghat. One hundred thousand people can bathe here at one time. There are chains and rails that enable people to bathe safely, as the Ganges flows very quickly at this spot.

Hundreds of thousands of people come to bathe at this ghat on the first day of Vaisakha in April/May, when the Hindu solar year begins. On Ganga-dasera, at the beginning of the rainy season, the Ganges is said to have come down from the heavens. Other important bathing days are on Purnims (full moon days, especially Kartika Purnim), Ekadasis, Amavasyas (new moon days), Sankrantis (when the sun enters the next zodiac sign), and solar and lunar eclipses.

The ashes of the dead are supposed to be cast into the Ganges at the southern part of the ghat.

Other Ghats
South of Hari-ki-Pairi, there is an interesting area to walk which is lined with bathing ghats.
Kushavarta Ghat, about half a km south of Hari-ki-Pairi Kund, is said to be the place where Dattatreya did penance by standing on one foot for a thousand years.

Lord Vishnu is said to have bathed at Vishnu Ghat.

Running parallel to the river, between the Ganges and Upper Rd, south of Hari-ki-Pairi, is the busy Bara Bazaar. It has an interesting assortment of religious paraphernalia along with many other items.

Mansa Devi Temple
This temple is situated on Vilwa Parvat, the hill above the city. Mansa Devi is a form of Shakti Durga. There is a cable car that goes to the top of the hill, which you board close to Ratan Cinema, just off the main road. From the top of the hill you get a bird’s eye view of Haridwar, the Ganga valley, and the Himalayan peaks. Open 8 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm. It takes about a half-hour to walk up the hill (1½ km).

Other Places
Bhimgoda Kund is said to have been created by Bhima, one of the Pandava brothers from the Mahabharata, by a blow of his knee. It is about half a km upstream from Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat, just off the road on the way to Sapta Rishi Ashram. You can get shared rickshaws to Rishikesh from here. About 200m north is the Jai Ram Ashram, on the road to Rishikesh, where there are statues of the gods and goddesses and motorized exhibits of the Vedic pastimes.

About a half km down the road, is the Pawan Dham Temple, which is decorated with excellent mirror and glasswork. It has many shrines dedicated to different deities.

One km further north is the Lal Mata Temple, which was finished in 1994. This temple is modeled after the Vaishno Devi Temple in Jammu & Kashmir. There is an artificial hill, which resembles the original. Also there is a replica of the ice Siva-linga, that is located at the Amarnath Cave in Jammu & Kashmir. It is an interesting temple.

Down the road is the Parmath Ashram, which has a temple dedicated to the goddess Durga. You then go further to the eight-storey high Bharat Mata Temple, which is about 5km north of Haridwar. On the top floor is a deity of Lord Shankar (Siva). You take an elevator (lift) to the top floor and then walk down.

About half a km further north is Sapta Rishi Ashram. It is about 6km north of Haridwar, on the banks of the Ganges. At this place, the Ganges is said to have divided to avoid displeasing the seven rishis (yogis) meditating there.

About 4½ km from Haridwar on the southeastern summits of the Siwalik Hills are the Chandi Devi (1929) and Anjani Devi Temples. At the foot of the hills are the Gauri-Sankara and Neele­swara temples.

The Pareshwar Mahadev Temple is four km south of Haridwar. The Siva-linga in the temple is said to be made of mercury.

Kankhal
Kankhal is said to have been the capital of Prajapati Daksha. It is about 4km south of the Haridwar railway station.

Daksha, the son of Lord Brahma and father of Sati, once performed a yajna (great sacrifice) at this place. Sati burned herself alive during the sacrifice because her father had insulted her husband Lord Siva. After which, when Siva was carrying the body of Sati, Lord Vishnu cut up her body into 51 pieces, which fell in different places around India. At many of the places where the parts of her body fell, important Shakti-pitha temples were established. You can read the full story about this event in the General Information chapter.

The Dakseswara Mahadeva Siva Temple (also called Daksha Prajapati Temple) is said to have been built in commemoration of Lord Siva coming to this place to help Sati. Next to this temple on the bank of the Ganges is Daksha Ghat. Sati Kund on Kankhal Jwalapur Road is said to mark the spot where Sati actually burnt herself.

Anandamoyee Ma Ashram, about 200m away, opposite the Daksheswar Temple, is a huge mausoleum dedicated to this famous Bengali woman guru.

Where to Stay—Dharamshalas
Punjabi Ksetra Ashram and Bharata Ashram are extremely basic and cheap, about Rs 15. Paramanand Ashram has rooms with a good view of the Ganges. These ashrams are all close to Birla Ghat.
Jayaram Ashram is one of the best dharamshalas in Haridwar. It has almost 500 rooms, many of which have a bathroom and are furnished.
Where to Stay—Lower
You can expect hotel prices to be higher here in May and June, which is the busy season. The budget places are mainly located near the railway station.
Hotel Madras (423-301), which is the cheapest place, has run-down basic rooms with common bath for Rs 70/100.
Hotel Samrat, across the street, has rooms with bath for Rs 100/140.
Hotel Panama (427-506), Jasharam Rd, on a side road close to the railway station, is a good value with fairly basic small rooms with bath for Rs 90/110. Hot water in bucket.
Hotel Ashok (427-328), nearby, has basic singles with common bath for Rs 75. A double room with common bath is Rs 200 and a room with bath and hot water is Rs 300. Air-cooled rooms are Rs 550 and with A/C Rs 950. The rooms are clean.
Arya Niwas, near Modi Bhawan, has recommended budget rooms.

Where to Stay—Middle
UP Tourism’s Rahi Motel (426-430), Station Rd, next to the bus stand, has comfortable rooms with bath, TV and air-cooling for Rs 475/525 and Rs 625/775 with A/C. A free breakfast is included. Dorm beds are Rs 50. It is in a quiet garden.
GMVN Tourist Bungalow (426-379) is across the river from the main part of town in a peaceful location. Rooms are Rs 500/650 up to Rs 900/1100 with A/C. Dorm beds are Rs 100. It has a garden and there is a good view of the Ganges from the rooms. There is no restaurant, but meals can be delivered to your room.
Hotel Mayur (427-586), Upper Rd, near the chair-lift, has basic rooms with hot water and air-coolers for Rs 125/175 in the off-season and Rs 175/275 in the high-season (May and June).
Down a road nearby is the Hotel Marwari Niwas (427-759), which has rooms with air-cooling, hot water, and a TV for Rs 400 and with A/C for Rs 700.
Hotel Kailash (427-789), on the main road near the railway station, has air-cooled rooms for Rs 240/275 and Rs 400 with A/C. Some rooms have a balcony.
Hotel Aarti (427-456), nearby on Railway Rd, is a good place with rooms for Rs 275/350 and air-cooled rooms are Rs 500/550. Do not get a room by the front desk, as the TV is blasted till late at night.
Hotel Gurudev (427-101), nearby on the main road, has rooms for Rs 300/450.
The popular Tourist Villa (426-391), Himalaya Depot Gali, Sharwan Nath Nagar, has an assortment of budget to mid-range rooms for Rs 400 to Rs 800. The rooms on the ground floor can be noisy.
Inder Kutir Guest House (426-336), Shravan Nath Nagar, near the Ganges, is a comfortable, well-managed, family-run place. It is a recommended, clean place with rooms for Rs 300/450. The lady who manages this place is very helpful.
Hotel Mansarover International (426-501), Upper Rd, is one of the best places in town with comfortable air-cooled rooms for Rs 650/800 and Rs 900/1000 for a room with A/C. There is a 20% discount during the off-season.
Suvidha Hotel (427-423), behind Chitra Talkies Cinema in Sharwan Nath Nagar, is in a quiet area. It has comfortable clean rooms for Rs 800/900 with air-cooling and Rs 1100/1300 with A/C. It is one of the best hotels in town.
Hotel Teerth (425-311), Bara Bazaar, right next to the Ganges, with a good view of Hari-Ki-Pairi, has air-cooled rooms for Rs 900 and an A/C room with a balcony facing the Ganges is Rs 1100.
Next door is the cheaper Gyan Niketan, which has good rooms facing the Ganges for Rs 400 and not so nice rooms in the back for Rs 300. You should see the room before you stay here.
Raj Deluxe (427-755), Vishnu Ghat, close to the Ganges, is a fairly comfortable place with rooms for Rs 700/800.
Surprise (427-780), Delhi-Haridwar Rd, about 2km out of town, has a pool and rooms for Rs 800/1000.

Where to Eat
Meat, fish, and eggs are banned within the city limits, so there are only vegetarian restaurants.
Bestee Restaurant, Shiv Murti area, near the Hotel Panama, serves Chinese, shakes, breakfast and South Indian food.
Hotel Hoshiyar Puri, on the main road by Hari-ki-Pairi ghat, is one of the busiest thali places in town and is over 50 years old.
Satkar, Vishnu Ghat, has good Indian and Chinese food.
Chotiwala Restaurant, opposite the Tourist Office, is popular and recommended. It is one of the best places in town. It has good thalis.
Siwalik Restaurant, a few shops down from Chotiwala Restaurant, makes good Gujarati and South Indian food.
Ahaar, Upper Rd, near Chotiwala, is a medium-priced place serving very good Continental, Punjabi, and Chinese meals. The last three places are probably the best places in town and are recommended.
Mohan’s Fast Food, near the Chitra Cinema, Railway Rd, has veggie burgers, pizzas and Gujarati food. It has a good selection of ice cream. The owner, Sanjeev Mehta, is a helpful and friendly person.
Hotel Mansarover International has a good restaurant, but is more expensive than the other places.
Bride Mathura Walla sweet shop, in the middle of Bara Bazaar, has an excellent selection of good Indian sweets.

Local Travel
A cycle-rickshaw from the bus station to Hari-ki-Pairi is Rs 8 and a vikram (a tempo) is Rs 3.
Vijay Cycle Works, Railway Rd, near the Arati Hotel, rents bikes for Rs 2 an hour or Rs 15 a day.

Travel
Rail The Mussoorie Exp #4042 departs from the Old Delhi station (7 hr, 262km) at 10.25 pm and arrives in Hari­dwar at 6.20 am before continuing on to Dehra Dun. It returns to Delhi from Haridwar at 10.50 pm. Other trains to Delhi are the Shatabdi Exp #2018 (6.10 pm, 4½ hr), Mumbai Exp #3009 and the Dehra Dun Exp #9020 (daily 12.50 pm, 10 hr).

You can get a direct train to Mumbai (40 hr), Calcutta (35 hr), Varanasi (20 hr, 850km, Janata Express), Lucknow (11 hr), Ujjain, and Gaya. The Doon Express #3009 (10.15 pm) goes to Calcutta via Lucknow and Gaya. The Ujjain Dehradun Exp #4310 (6.48 am) departs to Mathura (9 hr) via Delhi (6½ hr) on Wednesday and Saturday. From Mathura the Ujjain Dehradun Exp #4309 (8.20 am) goes to Haridwar on Thursday and Sunday.

Bus There are many buses to and from Delhi (6 hr, 222km), both local and express. Buses to Delhi leave from the Station Bus Stand almost every half-hour. There are also direct semi-luxury buses that depart in the morning for Delhi. They can be booked in advance at the many travel agencies or at your hotel. There is an A/C luxury bus that departs from Haridwar to Delhi at around 8 am in the morning for Rs 200. This same bus, which departs from Delhi for Haridwar at 3 pm, can be booked in Delhi at the Delhi Tourism Development Corporation office (345-358), C/o Coffee House, Baba Kharak Singh Marg or at one of Delhi Tourism’s other offices. This bus should be booked at least a day in advance. Buses to Haridwar depart from the Interstate Bus Terminal at Kashmiri Gate in Delhi. Private luxury buses to Haridwar from Delhi, which usually travel at night, should be booked in advance with a travel agency.

From Haridwar, you can get buses to Manali (13 hr), Kullu, Agra, Chandigarh, Shimla, Badrinath (14 hr), Gangotri, and Uttarkashi. There are hourly buses to Dehra Dun, where you can get a connection to Mussoorie. There are regular local buses to Kurukshetra (4 hr). There is a semi-luxury (five seats across) overnight bus (Rs 100, 10 hr) from Vrindavan via Mathura that departs at around 8 pm.

You should purchase a ticket one day in advance for a Char Dham destination. Buses to Kedarnath and Badrinath depart in the early morning. Most buses to Char Dham destinations depart from Rishikesh very early in the morning (before 7 am).

To and From Rishikesh There are frequent buses to Rishikesh (45 min, 24km). You can get a shared taxi at the bus stand for Rs 25. Near Bhimgoda Kund, about half a km upstream from Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat, you can get shared motor-rickshaws (tempos) to Rishikesh. If you walk across the bridge a few blocks from Hari-ki-Pairi Ghat there are shared motor-rickshaws (Rs 10 or Rs 100 for the entire rickshaw, 40-min) that regularly go to Rishikesh. These rickshaws go to the near end of Rishikesh, and from there you have to get another rickshaw to Shiva­nand Jhula or Laksman Jhula for Rs 4. By taxi to Rishikesh is Rs 300.

Taxi The Taxi Drivers & Owners Association (427-338), opposite the bus stand, has fixed, posted rates. To Mussoorie is Rs 500, Gangotri Rs 3,000, a nine-day Char Dham tour is Rs 9,000, Nainital Rs 1,500, and Delhi Rs 1,500.
Khodiyar Travels (423-560) Jasharam Rd, Shiv Murti area, and Shakti Wahini (427-002), Jasharam Rd, rent out taxis.

During May and June shared taxis departing from the railway station go between Haridwar and Mussoorie or Dehra Dun.

If you know of a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update our listings, please e-mail us at:

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