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790,000 Area Code: 0291
Jodhpur,
the second largest city in Rajasthan, was once the capital of the state
of Marwar. Jodhpur has a history of battles and royalty, as can be seen
by the impressive Meherangarh Fort overlooking the city. There are not
many sites to see in Jodhpur, but the few that are here are impressive.
It is worth visiting.
A
large, 10km-long wall with seven gates surrounds the city, each bearing
the name of the town to which it leads: Jalori gate, Sojati Gate, or
Nagori gate. The city itself is not so nice, but there are some interesting
bazaars and the people are friendly. Most people spend a day or two
in Jodhpur before heading to Jaisalmer or other places in Rajasthan.
History
After being defeated by Muhammad Ghori at Kanauj, the Rathore Rajputs
moved to Marwar (“the land of the dead”) in 1211. In 1459
Maharaja Rao Jodha moved the Rathore capital from Mandore (8km north)
to Jodhpur. Jodhpur was on the important Delhi to Gujarat trade route
and in the past benefited greatly from the trade of silk, opium, sandalwood,
copper, and other items. Maharaja Raja Sur Singh allied himself with
the Mughal Emperor Akbar. His son Sawai Raja Sur Singh conquered parts
of Gujarat and South India on the emperor’s behalf.
Sawai
Raja Sur Singh’s son, Maharaja Jaswant Singh, supported Shah Jahan
when Aurangzeb was successful in overthrowing his father in 1678. His
posthumous son, Ajit Singh, was exiled as a child when the Mughals took
control of the city. Thirty years later, after Aurangzeb’s death
in 1707, Ajit Singh returned to rule the city. He eventually drove the
Mughals out of Ajmer, their base of operations in Rajasthan. In 1818
the state of Marwar signed a treaty with the British.
Orientation
Jodhpur is a fairly large city with a lot of vehicle traffic. High above
the city in the northeast is the Meherangarh Fort. Southeast of the
city is Umaid Bhawan Palace. The main railway station is in the southwest
part of town, and there are several hotels close by.
In
the eastern part of the city are the long distance bus stand and the
Rai-ka Bagh railway station. There are several hotels in this area.
The main street in town is the extremely busy High Court Rd (runs east–west).
Its has many restaurants, hotels, and shops along it.
The
old city is within the old city walls, close to the hill that the fort
is on. Here the streets are narrow and there are many old buildings.
Information and Tours
The RTDC Tourist Office (545-083) located at the Ghoomar Tourist Bungalow,
High Court Rd, is helpful. They have maps, brochures, bus and trains
schedules, and help with hotel reservations. Open Mon to Sat 8 am to
7 pm, Sun 8 am to noon, closed Sun during the off-season.
There
is a tourist counter and a waiting room for international tourists in
the railway station.
RTDC
operates a local tour for Rs 50 plus entry fees, daily in the season
and daily except Sunday during the off-season. Tours are 9 am to 1 pm
and 2 to 6 pm. It goes to the fort and palaces, Mandore Gardens and
Jaswant Thada. They also arrange village safaris.
The
Ajit Bhawan Palace Hotel (437-410) organizes “Village
Safaris” which are a good way to see actual village life.
You go to villages of the Bishnoi people. They believe that the environment,
animals and plants should be protected. The half-day tour costs Rs 500
and includes lunch. There has to be at least four people for the tour
to go. Madho Niwas Guest House (434-486) (Rs 350 for a half-day safari)
and Durag Niwas Guest House (639-092) also arrange good village safaris.
You have to book the safaris in advance.
Mr
NL Tak (430-637) gives good tours of the Bishnoi villages. The charge
is Rs 800 per person for an all-day tour with up to five people. Other
operators also do village safaris, but some of them may be unscrupulous
and only interested in getting you shopping.
Money,
Phone and Post
You can change money at the State Bank of India, High Court Rd; Bank
of Baroda, Arun Hotel, Sojati Gate (changes travelers cheques); and
the State Bank of Rajasthan, High Court Rd just before Sojati Gate.
The
Hello Hut, near the main railway station, has fax facilities.
The
GPO is on Station Road near the railway station.
Shopping
Jodhpur is known for turbans, tie-dye fabrics, toys, and Jodhpuri coats.
The main shopping areas are Station Road for jewelry, Tripolia Bazaar
for handicrafts, around Sojati Gate for emporiums and Khanda Falsa for
tie-dyes.
There are some very good antique shops along the road that goes between
Umaid Bhawan and the Ajit Bhawan. The prices are not cheap. There are
restrictions on taking out of India antiques that are over 100 years
old. Abani Handicrafts is next to the Tourist Bungalow.
Khadi
Sangh, Station Rd; Rajasthan Khadi Sangathan, BK da Bagh; and Marasthaly,
High Court Rd, have good quality products at reasonable prices.
Travel
Agents
Poly Travels, Paota Bus Stand, is a good place. Rajasthan Tours (545-083),
at the Tourist Bungalow, rents cars at a fixed rate. Peacock Travels
(527-176), 2 Rai-ka Bagh. Hotel Ardash Niwas (627-338), Station Rd,
rents cars.
Travel Corporation of India (530-281) is an established travel agency
that can arrange local travel.
Meherangarh Fort
This impressive fort is located about 125m above the city. From the
walls of the fort there are some great views of the city below. The
walls of the fort range from 6m (20 ft) to 38m (120 ft) high, and 6m
(20 ft) to 22m (70 ft) thick. On the south end of the fort there is
a sheer drop of 37m.
Construction
on the fort was begun by Maharaja Rao Jodha in 1459. Construction was
completed by Maharaja Jaswant Singh (1638-78), a contemporary of Shah
Jahan. When Jaswant Singh died in 1678, Aurangzeb took control of the
fort. After Aurangzeb’s death, the fort came back under the control
of the Rajput Ajit Singh. The royal family lived here for 500 years,
until the Umaid Bhavan Palace was built.
The
fort originally had seven gates (pols). The first gate has spikes on
it intended to deter elephants, and there are cannon ball marks on it,
remnants of an attack on the fort. After passing the first gate, you
walk up a ramp through the remaining gates. You first pass Gopal
Gate and Bhairon Gate. Toati Gate,
the fourth gate, no longer exists. At the fifth gate, Dodhkangra
Gate, you make a sharp turn. Amarti Gate has
a long passageway under it.
The
impressive Jayapol is the main gate. It commemorates
Maharaja Man Singh’s war victories over the Jaipur and Bikaner
armies. Maharaja Ajit Singh built Fatehpol (Victory
Gate) in memorial to his victory over the Mughals.
When
you reach the last gate, the impressive Lohapol (Iron
Gate), there are fifteen handprints on the left about 2m up on the wall
marking the sati sacrifice of the widows of Maharaja Man Singh. They
burned themselves in the funeral fire of their husband in 1843. The
walk up to the fort is a fairly difficult climb, but there is also an
elevator (lift) to the top.
You
then come to the Fort Museum, which is the red sandstone
palace directly to the right. The museum features a weapons collection,
musical instruments, a beautiful handmade 250-year-old tent cover, paintings,
a turban collection, elephant howdahs (saddles), and excellent ivory
and wood antiques. The Jewel House has a good collection
of jewelry. Guides take visitors around the palace for about Rs 100
(they also expect a tip).
You
first come to Shringar Chowk courtyard, the only place
in the fort constructed of white marble. The coronation of the crown
prince was performed here eleven days after the death of his predecessor.
The upper floor of the courtyard is part of the zenana (women’s
area), from where the women could look down at what was happening in
the courtyard. It has intricate jali screens.
On
the left of Shringar Chowk is a good collection of palanquins and elephant
saddles made of pure silver. The Mahadole palanquin
was taken from Bahadur Shah, Begda of Malwa, and is made of wood decorated
with gold leaf.
You
then go around the palace, starting on the far right and moving toward
the left, sometimes going up and down stairs. You first come to the
Sileh Khana (armory), which has an excellent collection
of intricately decorated weapons. Above the weapons room is the Phool
Mahal (Flower Palace), an ornate mirrored dining room. It was
built by Abhai Singh (1724-49). On the ceiling is fabulous gold work
and paintings of different incarnations of Vishnu, Krishna, and Siva.
It has stone jali screens and portraits of former Jodhpur rulers. The
Jodhpur coat of arms is above the couch. This is one of the most impressive
rooms in the palace.
You
then come to Umaid Vilas, upstairs, with its excellent
collection of Rajasthani miniatures. Directly next to it is the Sheesh
Mahal (Mirror Palace), which has excellent mirror work. Ajit
Singh (1702-24) built it. The next room is the Takhat Vilas,
which has wall paintings of Krishna’s pastimes and dancing girls.
Maharaja Takhat Singh (1843-73) built this room. On its ceiling are
strong wooden beams and Belgian Christmas tree balls.
In
the Ajit Vilas is a good collection of musical instruments
and costumes. Below Takhat Vilas is Sardar Vilas. Next to it are Khabka
and Chandan Mahals (sleeping quarters).
Next
you come to Moti Mahal Chowk, a small courtyard. The
Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) is a beautiful meeting room with a gold and
glass ceiling. It is believed that this was the Diwan-i-am,
or Hall of Public Audience. The outside of the room has 19th century
woodwork. There are niches around the walls for lamps and a mirror ceiling.
In
the Tent Room is the red silk and velvet gold thread
embroidered tent of Shah Jahan (later Aurangzeb’s).
At
the southern end of the fort there are many old cannons on the fort
ramparts. There is a great view of the city from here. The blue-painted
buildings below mark the Brahmins’ houses. Nearby, at the end
of the fort, is the Chamunda Temple, dedicated to a
form of Durga.
The
fort is open daily 9 am to 5 pm (closed for lunch 12.30 to 2.30 pm);
admission Rs 50; camera Rs 50, video camera Rs 100; government tour
Rs 100. There is an elevator (lift) for Rs 10 (waived for disabled persons).
A steep winding road (a very difficult ride on a bicycle) leads up to
the entrance of the fort, passing the white marble chhatri of Jaswant
Singh II.
Jaswant Thada
Jaswant Thada is a marble pillared memorial (cenotaph) built in 1899,
dedicated to Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. It was built by his wife after
his death. It is located about half a km from the entrance of Meherangarh
Fort, just off the road leading to the fort, on the right. It is compared
to a miniature Taj Mahal because both are similar and were built for
the same reason. Pregnant women who wish to be blessed with a son come
here and tie a cotton thread on the string hanging inside the memorial.
There are photographs of various Jodhpur rulers here and smaller marble
memorials nearby. You can get a good view of the city from here. Photography
is prohibited inside. Open daily 8.30 am to 5.30 pm; admission Rs 10.
It is a ten-minute walk from the fort.
Umaid
Bhawan Palace
This huge, marble and pink-yellow sandstone palace (347 rooms) is located
in the eastern part of the city. The palace’s foundation stone
was laid in November 1928 and construction was completed in March of
1948. The palace was built during the reign of Maharaja Ummed Singh.
It was designed by HC Lanchester, the president of the Royal Institute
of British Architects in London. It took 3,000 people fourteen years
to construct this palace. The family of the last Maharaja still lives
in part of it.
It
has eight dining rooms. Julisu Stephan Norblin, a refugee from Poland,
painted the frescoes in the Throne Room (East Wing). There is an underground
swimming pool decorated with the signs of the zodiac. Norblin painted
the murals. It has well-kept gardens.
From
the road leading to the palace there is a good view of surrounding Jodhpur.
Half
the palace is now a hotel and restaurants and can be visited only with
a Rs 350 entrance fee, refundable against food and drink purchases at
the hotel.
There
is a good Museum with weapons, trophies, traditional art, and other
artifacts belonging to the Maharaja. The museum is open daily from 9
am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 50; cameras prohibited.
Umaid Gardens and Museum
Umaid Gardens, near the Tourist Bungalow, is a pleasant garden with
a simple zoo, Sumer Library, and a fairly uninteresting museum displaying
miniatures, weapons, textiles, sculptures, and portraits of Jodhpur
rulers. Open daily 10 am to 4.30 pm; admission Rs 3.
Clock
Tower and Markets
The clock tower is located in the middle of the old town. Near it is
Sardar Market, which is made up of narrow streets and a bazaar selling
handicrafts, silver, and clothing.
Other
Sites
Juni Dhan Mandi and Talaiti Mahal
are interesting buildings made of carved red sandstone. On High Court
Rd are Sojati Gate and Jalori Gate.
Sardar
Museum, in Willington Garden near the High Court building,
has exhibits of local arts and handicrafts which includes some sculptures
from the surrounding area and some coins.
Balsamand Lake is an artificial lake with a beautiful
garden next to it. The lake is about ¾ km long and 50m wide.
There is a beautiful palace built in 1936 on the bank of the tank, which
was used by the royal family as a summer home. On the south side of
the lake is a monument in memory of the Mewar ruler,
Ahada Hingola, who defeated Rao Jodha in 1443 and captured Mandore.
He was later defeated and killed by Rao Jodha in 1453.
Maha
Mandir, in the northeast of the old town, is a temple dedicated
to Nathji and is managed by a sect of Shaivites. There are beautiful
bas-reliefs in the temple and 100 pillars support the roof.
Pratap
Sagar and Kailana Sagar, west of Jodhpur,
are lakes, which have gardens near them.
Getting Around
The auto rickshaw drivers can be hard to deal with. Most journeys should
not cost more than Rs 25 within the city. To get to the fort from the
city should cost about Rs 40, but you may be asked for Rs 100 or more.
Solanki
Travels (39572), near Shanti Bhawan Lodge, is an established travel
agency.
There
is a bicycle rental place next to the Charili Bikaner Lodge and near
the GPO (Rs 20 per day). It is a hard ride up to the fort.
Where
to Stay—Low
There are many hotels near the railway station, but the area is very
noisy.
The Retiring Rooms at the railway station are Rs 200 for a double and
a dorm bed is Rs 75. The facilities here are air-cooled. A/C rooms are
Rs 350.
City Youth Hostel (20150), near the Indian Airlines office, has dorm
beds for Rs 25 for members and Rs 50 for nonmembers. There are some
double rooms with bath for Rs 200. There is a sunny courtyard and large
lockers are provided.
Govind Hotel (622-758), Station Rd, opposite the GPO (there is a tree
in front of the door), is a well-managed, good place with clean rooms
with hot water and a small TV for Rs 200 to Rs 350. It is a recommended
place, but most of the rooms don’t have outside windows. The people
that work here are all very polite and helpful. There is a great view
of the fort from the rooftop restaurant.
Shanti Bhawan Lodge (637-001; fax 639-211), across from the main railway
station, has rooms with common bath for Rs 150/225 and Rs 250/300 to
400/600 with bath, an air-cooler, and hot water. It is in an old large
building with no atmosphere and is really run-down. I didn’t like
it, but it could do if it is convenient. 24-hour checkout.
Durag Niwas Guest House (639-092), near KN Hall Girls College, down
a side street near the Rai-ka Bagh railway station and bus station,
is a good, quiet, small place with rooms for Rs 250 to Rs 700. If the
rickshaw drivers refuse to bring you because they do not give commissions,
you can call them and they will pick you up. They run day trips to the
Bishnoi villages. Meals are available.
Directly next door is the Durag Villas (621-300), House No 1, Old Public
Park, which is about the same and has about the same prices. As the
rooms are different at both places you could look at both. There is
a view of the fort from its roof.
Hotel Akshey (612-481), just behind the Rai-ka Bag railway station,
is a well-maintained, quiet place with modern rooms with hot water and
Star TV starting at Rs 200/300 and going up to Rs 500/600 for an A/C
room. Dorm beds Rs 60. Recommended.
There are two decent places located in the heart of the city near the
Clock Tower.
Hotel Mayur (474-110), 140 Nai Sarak, has single rooms with common bath
for Rs 150 and with bath for Rs 150/250.
Shree Laxmi Hotel (622-933), 132-133 Nai Sarak, has A/C rooms for Rs
200/250. 24-hour checkout.
Madho Niwas Guest House (434-486), Airport Rd, is a peaceful, family-run
place with lawns. Is has clean rooms starting at Rs 300/350. They arrange
good Village Safaris.
RTDC Ghoomar Tourist Bungalow (548-010), High Court Rd, has ordinary
rooms for Rs 300/400, air-cooled rooms for Rs 450/500 and A/C rooms
for Rs 650/750. Dorm beds are Rs 50. High Court Rd can be very noisy.
The friendly Godawan Guest House (25001), Paota, 3km from city center,
near All Indian Radio, in a quiet location, has a garden and rooms for
Rs 400.
Cosy Guest House (612-066), Novechokiya Rd, north of Jalori gate near
the fort, is a friendly, good place with simple rooms.
Shri Amar Bhawan Haveli (614-615), opposite Tunjika Jhalra, is a friendly
old haveli with plain clean rooms. Good value.
Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Adarsh Niwas (627-338; fax 627-314), near the railway station,
is a fairly good modern place with rooms with TV, telephones and baths
with hot water for Rs 650/800 and A/C rooms for Rs 850/1100. 24-hour
checkout.
Hotel City Palace (431-933; fax 639-033), 32 Nai Sarak, in the heart
of the city, is a good place with air-cooled rooms for Rs 450/550 and
A/C rooms for Rs 890/1090. It has a veg restaurant.
Marudhar International, opposite KN Hall, Raikabagh, is a quiet place
with a lawn. It has clean comfortable, plain mid-range rooms.
Rawat (42622), near Umaid Gardens, is a good place with rooms for Rs
750/850.
The popular Ajit Bhawan Palace Hotel, (437-410, 612-410; fax 637-774),
Airport Rd, is a good place with modern cottages for Rs 1400/1750 and
very good deluxe A/C rooms for Rs 2395. It is well-managed and has a
good pool and health club. It has very good buffet meals. They arrange
a good Village Jeep Safari. Recommended.
Raj Basera (431-973; fax same), Residency Rd, near the airport, has
traditional well-designed cottages for Rs 1200/1400. It has a restaurant
and a pool.
Karni Bhawan (432-220; fax 433-495), Palace Rd, Ratanada, has 25 comfortable
rooms with antique furniture for Rs 1250/1550. Nice lawns and a pool.
It is a good value, nice, family-run place with rooms starting at Rs
1100/1200.
Devi Bhawan (434-215; fax: same), 1 Ratanada, has comfortable rooms
for Rs 750/800. It is a well-managed, recommended family-run place.
Good restaurant.
Newtons Manor (430-686), 88 Jawahar Colony, is a pleasant with rooms
for Rs 1000.
Where to Stay—High
Umaid Bhawan Palace (433-316; fax 653-373) has 100 palatial rooms and
is one of the finest palace hotels in India. It has beautiful lawns
and gardens, an underground zodiac swimming pool and a health club with
a sauna. Rooms go for $240/$260 and suites start at $400 and go up to
$1100 for the Maharani Suite. If you want to stay here between Nov and
Feb you should try to book your room at least five months in advance.
In their brochure they say, “To create luxury we did not change
history.”
Hotel Ratanada Polo Palace (431-910; fax 433-118), Residency Rd, between
the downtown and airport has comfortable A/C rooms starting at Rs 2000/3000.
There is a 30% discount in the low-season. It has a pool and a restaurant.
Where to Eat
Jodhpur is known for makhania lassis, which is a saffron-flavored variety.
There is a refreshment room on the 1st floor of the railway station
which serve good, cheap food. A thalis is Rs 20.
Midtown Restaurant, opposite the railway station, has good veggie burgers,
pizzas, snacks and lassis.
Jodhpur Coffee House, Sojati Gate, has good South Indian and snacks.
Uttam Restaurant, High Court Rd, near Sojati Gate, has good, reasonably
priced thalis.
Kalinga, below the Hotel Adarsh Niwas, near the main railway station,
has good Rajasthani food. It is popular.
Ajit Bhawan Hotel has an excellent buffet dinner for Rs 225. It has
a good atmosphere. During dinner there is live folk music and dance
between 6 and 8 pm and a band continues to play live music after this.
It is best to book in advance, especially during the high season.
Umaid Bhawan Palace has a buffet lunch and dinner, which is served in
the large palace hall. During dinner live sitar, tabla and sarod music
is played. There is a wide range of excellent food for Rs 550.
Where
to Eat—Pure Veg
Poonam Restaurant (47036), High Court Road, is a very good restaurant
serving veg Indian, South Indian, Continental and Chinese. It is one
of the better places that I have seen in India and is recommended.
Fort View Restaurant on top of the Govind Hotel, near the railway station,
is a good and friendly place. From here you have an excellent view of
the fort. Veg pizza is Rs 35 and they make good makhania lassis and
masala milk.
Agra Sweet Home, opposite Sojati Gate, is a good place to sample a makhania
lassi. As is Mishrilal, near the main entrance of Sadar Bazaar.
Travel
Air The airport is 5km from the center of the city. It costs
Rs 75 by rickshaw and Rs 150 by taxi to get from the airport to downtown.
Indian Airlines (636-757; airport 432-016), Airport Rd, south of city
center, is open daily from 10 am to 1.15 pm and 2 to 4.30 pm. They have
flights to Delhi (3 weekly, $100), Mumbai (3 weekly, $140) and Udaipur
(3 weekly, $60).
Train
The Booking Office is on Station Rd, about a five-minute walk from the
main station. It is best to book your ticket as soon as possible, because
reservations can be hard to get. Open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm and on
Sun 8 am to 1.45 pm.
There is an International Tourist Bureau, with comfortable armchairs,
where foreign tourists are allowed to sit while waiting for a train.
There is a day train to Jaisalmer (8 hr, 295km). The day train can be
hot, slow and dusty. There is a night train, the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer Exp
#4810 at 11 pm (6½ hr). During the high season all foreigners
are put on the same carriage. You should be careful of your bags, as
this train is known for theft. During the winter, night can be really
cold, so it is a good idea to have sleeping gear.
There
are fast expresses to Delhi (11 hr), Bikaner and Ahmedabad (8 hr) and
a train to Agra (439km) and Jaipur (318km). There is a day and night
passenger train to Udaipur (10½ hr). The Marudhar Express #4854
goes to Varanasi via Ayodhya, Lucknow, Agra, Mathura and Jaipur.
Abu Road Ranakpur Exp #4707 (5.20 am, 5 hr) Ajmer Delhi Mail #4894;
Agra Howrah Exp #2308 (10 am, 13 hr), Marudhar Exp #4854 (9 am, 12 hr);
Ahmedabad Surya Nagri Exp #4845 (6.15 pm, 8 hr); Bikaner Ranakpur Exp
#4708 (11 am, 5 hr) Calcutta Howrah Exp #2308; Delhi Jodhpur-Delhi Exp
#4860 (11 pm, 12½ hr), Mandore Exp #2462 (7.30 pm, 11 hr); Jaipur
Intercity Exp #2466 (5 hr), Jodhpur-Delhi Exp #4860 11.15 pm, 6 hr).
Bus
The Jodhpur bus stand (44686) is near Rai-ka Bagh railway station. There
are regular buses between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer (6 to 8 hr). The buses
are mainly four seats across that pick up passengers along the way and
can thus get fairly crowded. Get an inside seat if you can. You can
reserve a seat in advance at the bus station or from a travel agency
near the railway station.
There are buses to Jaipur (7 hr, hourly), Udaipur (8 to 10 hr), Ahmedabad
(11 hr), Ajmer (4½ hr) and Bikaner (6 hr). Buses to Mt Abu (6
hr) mainly leave in the early morning and in the evening. Some buses
only go to Abu Road.
The
private bus companies, such as Sun City Tours, Solanki Tours and Sethi
Yatra, are mainly located across from the railway station. They offer
express and deluxe video buses to Delhi, Jaipur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer
and Ahmedabad. Most buses depart from the railway station at night.
The number on your ticket is the same as the registration plate of the
bus.
If you know of
a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update
our listings, please e-mail us at:

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