Bhubaneswar Orissa

Bhubaneswar is the capital of Orissa and is said to once have had 7,000 temples. Now only a few hundred ancient temples remain. The Lingaraja temple is one of the most impressive temples in India. Regrettably, non-Hindus are not permitted to enter, but can view the temple only from the outside.

Orientation
There is no real downtown area; rather, everything is spread out. The railway station and the old bus stand are close to each other in the center of town. The New long-distance bus station is about 5 km west of the center of the town. Most of the temples are located in the southeast section of the city, near the Bindu-sarovara Tank.

Information and Tours
The OTDC Tourist Office (431-299), 5 Jayadeva Marg, near the Panthanivas Tourist Bungalow, has a good free map of Orissa and can arrange tourist taxis and guides (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). There are also tourist counters at the airport and railway station (402-202) open 24 hr.

The OTDC has a luxury bus tour that goes to the temples and museums, Dhauli, Nandankanan, Khandagiri, and Udayagiri from 9 am to 5.30 pm daily except Mon. You can book this tour at the tourist office.

There is a daily OTDC tour to Puri and Konark, which stops at Pipli village for applique. It departs from the railway station at 8.30 am (9 am from the Panthanivas Hotel) and returns at 6 pm (Rs 100). It has a good guide. They also organize a two-day tour to Chilika and Gopalpur.

The Government of India Tourist Office, BJB Nagar, around the corner from the Panthanivas Hotel (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm).

Practical Information
You can change money at the State Bank of India on Raj Path, opposite New Market (may not change American Express travelers cheques); Indian Overseas Bank, corner of Janpath and Station Square (may ask to see purchase receipt to change travelers cheques). Some banks are closed on Mondays.

The GPO is on the corner of MG Marg and Sachivalaya Marg by the bus stand. There is a man outside to make packages. The middle counter is the poste restante.

Com-Cyber Tech (425-180), Ashoka Market, southeast end of Station Square, has internet and email facilities.

Genesis Travel (56493), at the Jajati Hotel, is an established travel agent. Prime Tours and Travels, Pushpak Complex, Kalpana Square, arranges car rentals and deals with train and airlines tickets. High-end tours to Puri and Konark can be arranged by Swosti Travels (508-738; fax 520-796), 103 Janpath. They can also arrange village and tribal tours.

Shopping
Most shops are closed from noon to 4 pm every day and all day on Thursdays.

The Modern Book Department, New Market, has a good selection of books on Orissa.
Good fabrics can be purchased at Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative, Hall No 2, West Market Building (closed Sundays).

Utkalika, the Orissa State Emporium at East Tower Market Building, has a good selection of quality Orissan items, but may be a little more expensive than other shops. Most of the year, however, the government emporiums offer discounts, and the quality is guaranteed.

Temples
Most of the temples are located near the Bindu-sarovara Tank, about 2km south of the city center. They are all situated within a 3km (2 mile) area of one another. Lingaraja and Vital Duel temples are located west of the tank.

Parasurameswar and Mukteswara temples are east of the tank. The Rajrani and Brahmeswara temples are a ten to fifteen-minute walk east of the Mukteswara Temple.

As there is active worship in many of the temples, it is best to dress conservatively. If a temple priest shows you around a temple (with your consent), it is appropriate to give a donation (approximately Rs 25). If you look rich, they will ask for more (the sky is the limit).

There is a good small book published by the Archaeological Survey of India called Bhubaneswar, by Debala Mitra. It is available from the State Museum in Bhubaneswar, or directly from ASI.

Bindu-sarovara Tank
It is said that Lord Siva established this tank as a place of pilgrimage by bringing water from all the holy places. Taking bath here and drinking the water of this lake is said to cure stomach diseases. It is located immediately next to the Lingaraja Temple. A pilgrimage to Bhubaneswar should be begun by bathing at this spot. On the eastern bank is the Ananta Vasudeva Temple, dedicated to Krishna and Balarama.

The Lingaraja deity is brought to the pavilion in the middle of the tank and ritually bathed during the annual Car Festival (Ashokastami). The best time to visit is around sunrise. Sri Chaitanya took bath in this lake when he first came from Bengal to Puri.

Lingaraja Temple (11th century)
The xe "Lingaraja Temple" Lingaraja Temple is one of the most impressive and beautiful temples in India. It is considered to be the pinnacle of Orissan temple architecture. The main tower is 55m (180 feet) high. The present temple was built between 1090 to 1104, but parts of the temple are over 1400 years old.

The presiding deity is the svayambhu linga, Hari-Hara Linga, which is half-Siva and half-Vishnu. He is also named Tribhuvaneswara, the “Lord of the three worlds.” The linga of Lingaraja is an uncarved block of granite 2.5m (8 ft) in diameter raised 20cm (8 inches) above the ground. The Siva linga is bathed daily with water, milk, and bhang. There are also many other deities residing in this temple. In the northeast corner there is Parvati.

Tradition says that one should first visit this temple before going to Puri. Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu came here before going to Puri.

There is a four-day chariot festival every March-April when Lingaraja is drawn on his chariot to the Rameswara Temple.

Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter the temple; and this rule is strictly enforced. There is a 6m (20 ft) high viewing platform along the northern wall of the temple, and from this vantage point you can get a good view of the temple compound. You will be asked for a donation at the platform and shown a book to indicate that some people have given over Rs 1000, but Rs 5 or Rs 10 should be more than enough. This temple is immediately south of Bindu-sarovara Tank.

Vaital Deul Temple
This interesting 8th century temple is dedicated to Chamundi (Kali). She wears a necklace of skulls and is shown as the eight-armed slayer of the buffalo demon. Her robes usually hide her necklace of skulls and the corpse upon which she is sitting. In her arms she holds a snake, bow, shield, trident, thunderbolt, and an arrow with which she is piercing the demon’s neck, thus displaying the most terrifying aspect of the Goddess Kali.

This temple is close to the Bindu-sarovara Tank, and it has some intricate exterior carvings. To get a good view of the temple’s interior, a flashlight is needed.

Mukteswara Temple
Built in the late 10th century, this small, elegant temple has been described as the most exquisitely ornamented temple in Bhubaneswar. It has an 11m (35 ft) high tower. The sandstone carvings are this temple’s most notable feature. It is known for its decorative gateway, carved dwarves around the windows, and intricate motif carvings of a smiling lion with beaded tassels in its mouth. On the gate in front of the main entrance is a decorative gateway (torana) complete with two reclining female figures. Mukteswara means “the Lord who bestows freedom through yoga.”

The Siddeswara Temple (11th century) is on the same grounds. It has interesting carvings of Ganesh and Karttikeya (Siva’s son) on the tower.
The small Marichi Kund, between the Mukteswara Temple and the road, is known to cure infertility in women. It is a pleasant place to sit for awhile.

Parasurameswar Temple
This temple is the oldest Siva temple in Bhubaneswar (built in the late 7th century). It is full of intricate carvings and is the best preserved and most impressive of the city’s early temples. It has carvings of elephant and horse processions and all the windows are carved. On the east wall of the tower there is an interesting carving of the marriage of Siva and Parvati.

There are also panels depicting Lakulisha, a Shaivite, who helped revitalize Hinduism in Orissa in the 5th century. He is seen on the west wall of the tower meditating under the sculptures of Nataraj (dancing Siva), and on the east wall with disciples at his feet.

In the corner of the courtyard is the Sahasra-linga, 1,000 small lingas joined together. This temple is close to the Bhubaneswar-Puri road, on the east side of Bindu-sarovara, northeast of the Lingaraja temple.

Eastern Temples
These temples are located about a fifteen-minute walk from the Mukteswara Temple. To get to these temple from Mukteswara, head north on Jayadev Nagar. When you get to the intersection, turn right on Tankapani Rd and walk until you get to a park on the right.

Raj Rani Temple
The Raj Rani Temple (11th century), surrounded by a nice garden, is no longer used for worship. This temple was dedicated to Lord Brahma and is known for its well-carved 18m (59 ft) high tower. It is about 1km east of the main road and is one of the later Bhubaneswar temples.

Around the temple are carvings of the eight dikpalas (temple guards) who protect the temple from the different directions. The dikpalas are: Indra (east) the king of the heaven, Agni (southeast) god of fire, Yamaraja (south) god of death, Nirritti (southwest), Varuna (west) god of water, Vayu (northwest) god of air, Kubera (north) god of wealth, and Isana (northeast).

Brahmeswara Temple
This temple was built around 1050 and is a Siva-linga temple with active worship. It is known for its intricately carved sculptures. On the north wall of the porch is a carving of Lakshmi. Over the entrance is a carving of the nine planets. It is about 1km east of the main road, a good walk from the Raj Rani Temple.

Orissa State Museum
This museum has a collection of religious sculptures, weapons, coins, and musical instruments. It also has a good collection of antique paintings and palm-leaf manuscripts in a small room at the end of the corridor on the first floor.

It is located at the top of Gautam Nagar (Lewis Rd), not far from the Hotel Ashok. Open Tues to Sun 10 am to 5 pm.

Tribal Research Center
There is an exhibit of traditionally constructed Orissan tribal houses, including the Juang, Saora, Santal, Kondh, and Gadaba. There are also nice murals on the buildings, and a collection of tribal dresses, jewelry, and weapons. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm. The museum is located between the center of town and the New bus station on National Hwy No 5.

Handicrafts Museum
Located on Secretariat Rd, this museum contains a collection of stone sculptures, metalware, patta-chitras, masks, jewelry, and toys.

ISKCON (Hare Krishna) Temple
The beautifully built modern ISKCON temple (413-517) is located on National Highway No 5, Nayapali. The Deities in the temple are Krishna-Balarama, Jagannath, Baladeva, and Subhadra, and Gaura-Nitai. There is also a Radha-Krishna temple. Srila Prabhupada laid the cornerstone for this temple in February 1977, and construction was completed in 1992.The temple has a small guest house. with rooms with attached bathrooms. Guests are expected to follow the ashram rules. There is a vegetarian restaurant.

Where to Stay—Lower
Yatri Niwas (416-438), Cuttack Rd, has dorm beds for Rs 40.
Venus In (401-738), Cuttack Rd, is a good place with rooms for Rs 175/300 and with A/C for Rs 500. 24-hour checkout.
Lingaraj (416-342), Old Station Bazaar (exit platform 4 from the railway station), has clean rooms. It is a good value.
Hotel Janpath (405-547), near the railway station, is a good value place with rooms with bath for Rs 120/150 to Rs 500 and with A/C for Rs 600. Recommended.
Pushpak (415-545), Kalpana Square, is a decent value, having large rooms with bath for Rs 150 and Rs 400 with A/C.
Hotel Raj Mahal (402-448), junction of Rajthpath and Janpath, has clean rooms for 150/200.
Bhagwat Niwas (411-545), 9 Buddha Nagar, behind the Pushpak, is well-managed. It has basic but clean, economical rooms with bath and TV for Rs 100/150 and Rs 500 for A/C.
Hotel Padma (51198), Kalpana Square, has rooms with bath for Rs 150/225.
Bhubaneswar Hotel (416-977), Cuttack Rd, on the east side of the railway station, is a popular place with clean, comfortable rooms with hot water for Rs 175/300 and with A/C for Rs 500/600. Some rooms have balconies. Recommended.

Where to Stay—Middle
The popular Tourist Guest House (500-857) is a very good place with comfortable, clean rooms with bath for Rs 300/400 to Rs 450/500. Recommended.
Hotel Natraj (54842) has rooms for Rs 225/250 and Rs 400/450 with A/C.
OTDC Panthanivas Tourist Bungalow (432-515; fax 431-053), Jayadev Nagar, is close to the ancient temples. It has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 400 and Rs 750 with A/C. 8 am checkout.
Hotel Anarkali, Station Square, near the railway station, has standard rooms with TV. The less expensive rooms are a good value.
Meghdoot (405-802), 5-B Sahid Nagar, has standard rooms as well as fancy ones with wall-to-wall carpeting and bathtubs. It is good value, but is a bit out of the way.
Sahara (402-337), 76 Budhanagar, near the railway station, has clean, spacious rooms with bath and hot water. Pleasant and recommended.
Park View Guest House (400-664), Ekamra Marg, near the airport, has rooms with TV for Rs 500/600.
The new Hotel Oddisi High (417-084) has modern clean rooms for Rs 500/600.

Where to Stay—Higher
Hotel Keshari (508-593, 501-095; fax 511-553), 113 Station Square, has rooms with hot water and TV for Rs 650/750 and Rs 1400/1500 with A/C.
The five-star Hotel Sishmo (433-600; fax 433-351), 86/A-1 Gautam Nagar, in the center of town, is a well-managed place with a pool and bookshop. Rooms are Rs 2100/2500. It is a good value. Recommended.
Prachi (402-366, fax 403-287), 6 Janpath, has rooms for Rs 1400/1900. This hotel has good facilities, including a garden, a pool surrounded by palm trees (Rs 100 for non-guests), and a tennis court.
The ITDC Hotel Kalinga Ashok (431-055; fax 432-066), Gautam Nagar, is a modern place with rooms for Rs 1800/2100.
Hotel Swosti (504-178; fax 520-794), 100 Janpath, a five-minute walk from the railway station, is an excellent, well-managed four star place with rooms from Rs 2100/2700. Recommended.
Mayfair Gardens (405-412; fax 400-053), Janpath, is a luxury place with a pool and health club.
The five-star Oberoi Bhubaneswar (440-890; telex 6348; fax 440-898), Nayapalli, located on 12 acres of land, is an excellent hotel designed like an Orissan temple. Rooms are $105/125. It is 4km from city center, but is close to the airport. It has a pool, tennis court, and health club.

Where to Eat
Shanti Restaurant is a good place.
South Indian Hotel is a very good place.
Athiti Bhavan, near the Lingaraja temple, has good Chinese and very good Bengali thalis at inexpensive prices.
Aahar Restaurant, near the temples, serves Orissan and Bengali food.
Sangam Restaurant, in the Kenilworth Hotel, is one of the best places in town.
Hare Krishna Restaurant (407-186), Lal Chand Market Complex, Station Square, has excellent vegetarian food, but is not cheap. It is the most highly recommended place in town. Hare Krishna devotees manage it.
Venus Inn, 217 Bapuji Nagar (2nd floor), is a good South Indian vegetarian restaurant.
East & West, near Kalpana Sq, is a very good place with Indian and Chinese food. It has good service.
Pushpak, Kalpana Square, has a good South Indian restaurant.
Prachi Hotel, 6 Janpath, has a very good Chinese and South Indian restaurant.
Kenilworth Hotel has a good Chinese restaurant.
There is a vegetarian restaurant at the ISKCON (Hare Krishna) Temple.

Local Travel
An auto-rickshaw from the New bus station to the center of town costs Rs 35. A city bus costs Rs 4.
You can hire a bicycle-rickshaw to bring you on a temple tour for about Rs 25, and from temple to temple for Rs 5.

Travel
Air There are Indian Airlines (400-533) flights to Hyderabad (3 weekly, $150), Calcutta (6 weekly, $80), Delhi (1 daily, $200), Mumbai (3 weekly, $230), and Chennai (3 weekly, ($190). The Indian Airline office 530-533; Airport: 401-084) is on Rajpath, by the Old bus stand (Mon to Fri 10 am to 4.30 pm).

The airport is close to town (Rs 35 by auto-rickshaw, Rs 70 by taxi, and Rs 120 to Oberoi). If you have an early morning flight, it is a good idea to have your hotel arrange a taxi the night before and pay a little more.

Train Bhubaneswar is on the main Calcutta-Chennai line, so many trains stop here. The Coromandal Exp leaves Calcutta at 2.30 pm and arrives in Bhubaneswar around 10 pm. The return train leaves about 4 am and arrives in Calcutta at noon. The Howrah–Puri Exp departs from Howrah at 10 pm, arrives in Bhubaneswar at 5.40 am the next morning, and goes on to Puri, arriving at 8.10 am. This train returns to Calcutta, leaving Bhubaneswar at 8.10 pm, and arrives in Calcutta at 5.30 am the next morning. There are other, slower trains between Calcutta and Bhubaneswar.
The Howrah-Bangalore Mail (Mon, 6:30 am, 30 hr) and Guwahati Bangalore Exp #5626 (Mon, Wed, 12.55 pm, 31 hr) go to Bangalore. The Coromandel Exp #2841 (daily, 9.47 pm, 21 hr) is a good train going to Chennai.

There are direct trains to Delhi (25 to 42 hr), Agra (39 hr), Remuna (five daily, 5 hr), and Varanasi (21 hr). The Rajdhani Exp #2421 goes to Calcutta on Wed and Sun (7hr, 9 am) and then continues on to Delhi (24 hr). The Rajdhani Express #2422 (5 pm, 25 hr) departs from Delhi on Tues and Sat to Bhubaneswar. The Puri-New Delhi Exp #2815 (Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sat 10.50 am, 30 hr) is a good train to Delhi.

Bus Most of the long-distance buses depart from the New bus stand (Baramunda bus stand), inconveniently located about 5km from downtown on the main road to Calcutta. When you arrive in town, it is usually best to ask to get off the bus in the center of town, near the railway station or Old bus stand, where the hotels are located. From the New bus stand there are buses to Calcutta, Cuttack (1 hr), and other places in Orissa. Buses to Puri also leave from this station. To Sambalpur there is a morning and night bus (9 hr, Rs 90).

The best way to get from Bhubaneswar to Puri is on one of the Canter minibuses leaving from the Old bus stand in the center of town, the New bus stand, and from the petrol station opposite the Ashok Hotel. They take a little more than an hour to arrive. There are also larger buses going to Puri, but they are slower. It is best to get an express bus to Puri, which makes only one stop enroute.

There is a direct bus to Konark at 10 am (1½ hr, City Bus Stand). If you don’t get the direct bus, you can take a Puri bus to Pipli, and from there another bus to Konark.

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