Assam

Population: 26 million
Capital: Guwahati
Area: 78,000 sq km
Literacy Rate: 43%

Assam is the largest state in the northeast. One of the main reasons people come here is to go to Kaziranga National Park, which is the home of the rare one-horned rhinoceros. Over 60% of the tea in India is grown in Assam and it also has a good oil reserve. It has the best travel facilities of any of the northeast states. Assam stretches for almost 800km from east to west, but is only an average of 80km wide. During the monsoon there are heavy rains in Assam. The Brahmaputra River, which in places is extremely wide, flows for around 700km through the state.

There are a few insurgency groups active in this state, so you should check on the present situation before visiting. The United Liberation Front of Assam (ULFA) wants Assam to become an independent country and there is a demand by the Bodo community to have a separate state called Bodoland.

Guwahati
Click Here to go to Guwahati.

Kaziranga National Park
Area Code: 036776

In this 430 sq km park, 215km east of Guwahati, there are around 1200 of the rare Indian Rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis). There are only around 1500 of this type of rhino left on earth. Around the beginning of the 1900s the Indian Rhino was almost extinct. There are also elephants, tigers (rarely seen), wild buffalo, deer, wild boar, pythons, crocodiles and bears. There are various types of birds in the park, such as herons, pelicans, eagles, storks and egrets. There is an excellent chance of seeing wildlife in this park.

The park is known for its tall elephant grass. The best way to see a rhino is on the back of an elephant. The best time for viewing is early in the morning. The rhinos are used to tourist on elephants, while the wild buffalo can be vicious.

The jeeps can go further into the park, but the elephants are better for viewing because they can get much closer to the rhinos and buffalo. It is best to spend around three days at the park if you want a guarantee of seeing a rhino.

Information
The park is open from mid-November to mid-April. The main gate is in Kohara. You have to report and sign in at the Tourist Center (037766 423) in the Bonani Tourist Lodge before entering the park. You book elephant rides and jeeps at the park headquarters in Kohara. This should be done the evening before. There are two different prices for Indians and foreigners.

To enter the park is Rs 200 (Rs 10 for Indians), for a camera Rs 175 (Rs 20 for Indians), video camera Rs 550 (Rs 500 for Indians). To enter in a vehicle is Rs 200 (Rs 50 for Indians), an elephant ride Rs 750 (Rs 150 for Indians) and to rent a jeep for 1½ hr with up to eight people is Rs 800. Jeeps can be rented from the Deputy Director of Tourism at Kohora or Wild Grass Resorts.
The park is open 8 to 11 am and 2 to 5 pm. Elephant rides are at 5 am, 6.30 am and 2.30 pm.
Assam Tourism organizes a two-day tour from Guwahati, which is extremely rushed, but convenient. You spend around 10 hours of that time on a bus and you get only one day to see the wildlife.

Where to Stay and Eat
Forest Lodges must be reserved in advance at the tourist office or at the park headquarters. At Kunjaban and Bonashree there are some double rooms and dorm beds for Rs 150. At the Forest Lodge in Bonani (423) rooms are Rs 500/600. In Aranya (429), the Forest Lodge has rooms with bath for Rs 500/600 and with A/C for Rs 600/700.

Kaziranga Forest Lodge has good rooms for 500/600 and Rs 600/750 with A/C.

Wild Grass Resort, 4km from Kohora, has clean double rooms or a luxury tent for Rs 1100. For Rs 2700 a person you get accommodations, meals and an elephant safari in the park. It has a great location and is well-managed. They can book jeep safaris in the park. You can book with Wild Grass, PO Kaziranga, Dist Golaghat 785109 or in Guwahati (0361 596-827; fax 541-186), 107 MC Rd, Uzan Bazaar. Recommended. They can pick you up at the Guwahati airport.

Travel
The closest airport is in Jorhat, 85km away, from where there are flights to Calcutta via Guwahati. The nearest railway station is in Furketing, 73km away, from where there are buses and jeeps to the park.

Green Valley bus company and Assam Tourism located at the Tourist Lodge in Guwahati run daily buses to here. Buses from Guwahati going to Jorhat, Dibrugarh, Tezpur and Sibsagar, pass by the gate of the park at Kohora.

Manas Wildlife Sanctuary
This beautiful park is on the border of Bhutan. It has a good selection of wildlife including rhinos, wild buffalo, elephants, pygmy hogs, deer, tigers and the rare golden langur monkeys. There are also many species of birds. The park was closed for years because Bodo militants would hide out in the park. It has just been re-opened in 1996, but it may still not be advisable to visit the park. It is a good idea to check with the tourist office before visiting this place. The closest town with facilities is Barpeta Road, 40km from Mothangiri.

Information
The best time to visit here is from January to March. The information center for the park is in Barpeta Road. The main town in the park is Mothangiri. The best way to see wildlife is on the back of an elephant. Three-hour rides begin at 8 am and 2 pm.

To enter the park is Rs 200 (Rs 10 for Indians), for a camera Rs 175 (Rs 20 for Indians), video camera Rs 550 (Rs 500 for Indians), to enter in a vehicle Rs 200 (Rs 50 for Indians), an elephant ride Rs 750 (Rs 150 for Indians) and a to rent a jeep for 1½ hr with up to eight people is Rs 800.

It is possible to take a boat ride on the river, which can be arranged with the Forest Officer at Mothangiri.

Practicalities
Manas Tourist Lodge has rooms for Rs 200/300 and Rs 60 for a dorm bed. You can camp here if you have a tent.

The forest bungalow has rooms for Rs 150/200.
There is a Rest House at the tourist office at

Barpeta Road, 40km from the park.
To book a room, contact the Forest Office, Wildlife Division, PO Barpeta Rd, Assam or Field Director, Manas Tiger Reserve, PO Barpeta Rd, Assam.

Travel
The closest airport is in Guwahati (175km). The nearest railway station is in Barpeta Road, 40km from Mothangiri, from where there are trains to Calcutta and Guwahati. Some travels agencies in Guwahati arrange tours to the park.

Tezpur
Area Code: 03712

Located 180km from Guwahati, xe "Tezpur" Tezpur is a major tea center. It is said that Lord Krishna came here to save his son from King Banasura, who had imprisoned him because he had an illicit affair with his daughter, Usha. In the ensuing battle in which Lord Siva (Banasura was his follower) took part, Krishna came out victorious and Krishna’s son and Banasura’s daughter got married.

There are old temples here, including the ruins of the Da Parbatia Temple, which has ancient sculptures and the Maha Bhairava Temple. There are 9th century sculptures located in Cole Park. From on top of Agnigarh Hill is a nice place to watch the sunset. There is a museum that has sculptures and old manuscripts.

The Tourist Office is in the Tourist Lodge. Banks here do not change money.

Where to Stay
Hotel Meghdoot (21714), on KK Rd, near the bus stand, has decent rooms for Rs 100/125.
Tourist Lodge (21016), across from Cole Park, is a well-managed place with good rooms for Rs 150/225 and dorm beds for Rs 50.
Hotel Luit (21220), near the bus stand, has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350/500. It has a good restaurant.
Raj Chinese Hotel, on Nehru Maidan, has good Chinese food.

Travel
Indian Airlines has flights twice a week to Calcutta and to Imphal (but not the other way), but sometimes these flights are cancelled. The office is near the Tourist Lodge. There is a bus to the airport.

Trains departing from Guwahati can be booked at the railway station (8.30 to 10 am).
There are buses to Guwahati (4½ hr, 12 daily), Jorhat (4 hr, 4 daily) via Kaziranga (1½ hr), Sibsagar, Balakpung (1½ hr) and Itanagar (5 hr) in Arunachal Pradesh.

Private bus companies, located mainly opposite the bus stand, offer buses to Guwahati, Jorhat via Kaziranga, Sibsagar and Siliguri. Green Valley and Blue Hill are established companies.

Silchar
Silchar is located in the extreme south of Assam. You may have to come here for transport reason.

The Tourist Lodge (03842 32376) has rooms for Rs 125/200. Nataraj (03842 30084), off Club Rd, has rooms for Rs 150 to Rs 300. It is a good value. The Geetanjali Hotel, Club Rd, has a good restaurant.

There are flights from here to Calcutta, Guwahati and Imphal. There are buses to Guwahati (12 hr, 4 daily), Shillong (9 hr, 3 daily), Imphal (11 hr), Kohima and Agartala (12 hr, 3 daily).
Northeast Assam

Jorhat
Area Code: 0376

You may have to travel through here while traveling in northeast Assam.

There is a Tourist Office at the Tourist Lodge.
You can exchange travelers cheques at the State Bank of India.

Broadway Hotel, near the Tourist Lodge, is a budget place.

The Tourist Lodge (321-579) is a good place with rooms with bath for Rs 175/225.
Dipli Hotel has clean rooms with bath for Rs 200/275.

The best place in town is the Hotel Paradise (321-521; fax 323-512), with rooms with hot water for Rs 350/500.

Cherry Garden, corner of KB Rd and MG Rd, is a good bakery with good cakes and pizza.

There are Indian Airlines (320-970) flights to Calcutta via Dimapur. NEPC (c/o Pelican Tours (321-128), MG Rd) has flights to Guwahati and Bagdogra.

There are buses to Guwahati (7 hr), Kaziranga (2½ hr), Tezpur (4 hr), Dimapur (3½ hr) and Sibsagar (1½ hr). To get to Itanagar, you first take a bus to Bagdogra and then change there (9 hr).

Sibsagar
Area Code: 03842

Sibsagar was the old capital of the Ahom dynasty, which ruled Assam for around 600 years, just before the British took over the area. It is 55km east of Jorhat and 370km from Guwahati. It has one of the tallest Siva temples in India at 33m (108 ft).

There is a large artificial lake in the center of town. The ruins of the 18th century palaces of Kareng Gharand and Talatal Ghar are 6km from town. Gaurisagar Tank and some temples are 12km from town on the road to Jorhat. Gargoan Palace is 13km from town.

Kareng Hotel (22713), on Temple Rd, has reasonably priced rooms for Rs 125/175.
The Tourist Lodge (22394), next to the lake, has good rooms with bath for Rs 175/250. Recommended.

Annapurna Lodge (22218), near the Private bus stand, has rooms for Rs 250.

The closest railway station on the main line is in Simaluguri, 20km away. There are buses to Guwahati (9 hr), Kaziranga (3 hr) and Jorhat (1½ hr). There is an airport in Jorhat.

Majuli
Majuli is the largest river-island in the world. It is known for its Hindu Vaishnava monasteries called satras. Worship of Lord Vishnu and Lord Krishna is done through dance, music and poetry. These performances tell the story of the Mahabharata and other pastimes.

You can stay at some of the satras, in peoples homes, or at the Circuit House (ask at the office next door) in Garmur. Foreigners are supposed to register with the police on arrival. There are taxis and rickshaws for local travel.

There are boats to here from Nemati Ghat, 12km north of Jorhat. From where the boat docks at Majuli, there are usually buses to the main city of Garmur (10km) and Kamalabari (5km).

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides