Shopping at Natural Nirvana

Pune (Poona)

Pop: 2.8 million Area Code: 020

Pune, the second largest city in Maharashtra, is located near the Sahyadri Hills at 586m (1973 ft). The main reason that many people come here is to go to the Osho Commune International, the ashram of Bhagwan Rajneesh. Even though it is a major industrial town, it is still a nice city. Because of the high cost of living in Mumbai many people commune daily to there from Pune.

The university here is one of the best schools in India. Mahatma Gandhi was placed under house arrest in the Palace of the Aga Khan here, now the Gandhi National Memorial.

Pune was the early home of Shivaji. His grandfather ruled it in 1599. It became the Maratha capital of the Brahmin Peshwa family in 1750. It came under the control of the British in 1817 and was used as the capital of the region during the monsoon season.

Orientation
Most of the hotels are located near the railway station. There are also hotels near the Osho Commune and near the Swargate bus station. Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd is the main street in town. Along this street and in the general area are banks, bookshops, hotels, and restaurants. The Osho Commune is located in a quiet residential area in the northeast section of the city. The old part of the city is to the west, where the Shaniwarwada Palace is located.

Information
The MTDC Tourist Office (612-6867) is opposite the railway station to your right. There is an MTDC Tourist Counter at the railway station, which sells tickets for the MTDC Pune City tour, the tour to Mahabaleswara, and MTDC long-distance buses.

There is a Pune City tour departing at 8 am and 3 pm. The tour takes four hours and costs Rs 60. It is fast-paced. There is a tour to Mahabaleswara, departing at 7.30 am and returning at 10 pm. You can book tickets at the Tourist Counter in the railway station.

Tourist Guide of Pune is a monthly magazine that lists events in Pune and up-to-date travel information.

Pune Medical Foundation (623-391), Ruby Hall Clinic, Pound Garden Rd, Camp, is a possible hospital.

FotoFast, MG Rd, opposite the Hotel Aurora Towers, does one-hour film processing..

Phone Number Changes
All the phone numbers have changed from six digits to seven. The number for telephone inquiries is 613-1122.

Money, Post and Internet
Thomas Cook (648-188; fax 643-027), 13 Thacker House, 2418 G Thimmaya Rd, off MG Rd, exchanges money efficiently (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). American Express, Aurora Building, MG Rd (Mon to Fri 9 am to 5 pm, Sat 9 am to 3 pm). There is an exchange counter at the Osho Commune. The Central Bank of India (631-413), MG Rd, accepts Visa and MasterCard. There is an ATM machine at Citibank.

The GPO is on Connaught Rd (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). Poste restante at counter 2.

Internet: There are many internet places in Pune, many of them on or around MG Rd. ICE (636-611), 113 Ashoka Mall, Bund Garden Rd, across from the Holiday Inn, has internet facilities for Rs 70 per hour. NRA Cyber Cafe, Ashok Vijay Complex, 326 MG Rd, has internet access for Rs 40 per hour. Log Inn, in the Hotel Aurora Tower on MG Rd.

Travel Agencies
Sunder Travel Shoppe (631-848; fax 631-534), Sunder Plaza, 19 MG Rd, is a good travel agency. They are also the Pune American Express representative and change travelers cheques (Mon to Sat 10 am to 6.30 pm). Established travel agencies: Apple Travels (628-189) in the Amir Hotel, Connaught Rd; Star Line Travels (622-189), Darshan Apts, next to the Woodlands Hotel.

Bookshops
Good bookshops: Word Bookshop, 899 Boottee St, near the Railway Booking Office; Manneys Booksellers, Clover Centre, 7 Moledina Rd, near MG Rd (daily 9 am to 1 pm and 4 to 8 pm); and Modern Bookshop, Gen Thimmaya Rd (Mon to Sat 9 am to 1 pm and 4 to 8 pm).

Gandhi National Memorial
Gandhi was imprisoned here in 1942 after giving his famous “Quit India” speech in Mumbai. Other leaders of the India Independence movement were also imprisoned here. Gandhi was held for almost two years.

This place was built in 1892 by Muhammad Shah Aga Khan III and became the palace of the Aga Khan. It was given by Aga Khan IV to be used as a memorial to Gandhi in 1969.

Gandhi’s wife, Kasturba Gandhi, died here while interned, as did his secretary of thirty-five years, Mahadoebhai Desai. Their memorials are in the garden.

Some of Mahatma Gandhi’s personal processions are found here, including his sandals. There is photo exhibit showing his activities.

This place is across the river in Yeravda and is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Admission Rs 2. The Pune City bus tour stops here for half an hour. Local buses #1, #156, and #158 come here.

Parvati Hill and Temple
From Parvati Hill there is a good view of the surrounding area. The last Peshwa ruler is said to have watched from here as the British defeated his army. There is a temple dedicated to Ganesh and Parvati, the wife of Siva.

Raja Kelkar Museum
This excellent museum is the personal collection of Sri Dinkar Gangadhar (also known as Kaka Kelkar). It contains over 15,000 items, including musical instruments, miniatures, large detailed carved doors, and oil lamps. It is worth a visit.
Open daily 8.30 am to 12.30 pm and 3 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 10 for Indians, Rs 120 for foreigners. Visitors can hire a guide. The MTDC City tour bus stops here for a short visit. From the railway station, buses #72 and #74 go to City Market near here.

Pataleshwara Temple
This is a rock-carved temple dating from the 8th century. It is also called Panchalesvara Cave. There is active worship in this temple. It is on Jangali Maharaja Rd, across the river.
Nearby is the Jangali Maharaja temple, dedicated to a Hindu holy man who died in 1818.

Shaniwar Wada Palace
This is what is left of the palace of the Peshwa rulers. It was built in 1736 and burned down in 1828. The massive stone walls surrounding the palace still remain, but not much else. There is a peaceful garden inside the walls and signs telling visitors what rooms were located where. The entrance has doors with spikes on them to protect against elephant attacks. Open daily 8 am to 6.30 pm. Admission: Indians Rs 3, Foreigners US$5. Considering that you can see what is left of the place in less than a minute it is a total rip-off. It really isn't such a good value at the Indian price of Rs 3.

Tribal Museum
This is a small, interesting museum (669-4710) located about 1km east of the railway station. It has exhibits pertaining to the different Maharashtrian tribal communities. Open Mon to Fri 10 am to 5 pm. The Pune City tour does not stop here.

Gardens
The Bund Gardens, next to the river, is a popular place in the evening to take a walk. The Express Botanical Gardens is also nice. There is a zoo nearby. In Peshwa Park is the Saras Baug Ganesh Temple.

Osho Commune International (formally Rajneesh Ashram)
Bhagwan Rajneesh (Osho) established the Osho Commune. Rajneesh died on January 19, 1990, but the Commune is still popular and attracts thousands of people.

There are two guided tours daily, each of which last one hour, at 10.30 am and 2.30 pm. The tour consists of a fifteen-minute walk through part of the complex, a video of Rajneesh, and a question and answer period. The Visitor Center is open daily 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 to 4 pm. The Welcome center, where entry coupons are purchased, is open 7 am to 5 pm. If you want to stay longer you are required to take an AIDS test (Rs 125). Those who take the test in the morning receive the results by 4 pm the same day. You also need two passport photos, which can be taken at the ashram.

The entrance fee is Rs 100 daily. To take part in the activities and to enter the restaurants in the Commune, visitors must wear maroon robes during the day. After 6.30 pm they are expected to wear white robes. The admission fee enables guests to partake in daily meditations at the main Buddha Hall. Money is not used in the ashram. Rather, visitors purchase a coupon book at the entrance and whatever they need is deducted from it.

Besides the daily meditations in the Buddha Hall there are other activities in the Commune in which one can participate for a fee. The gates open at 5.30 am for Dynamic Meditation. Other activities include: dance, prana healing, painting, Tai Chi, and channeling.

There is a large pool, tennis courts, sauna, jacuzzi, health club, and other sports facilities. Visitors must wear maroon sportswear. On the ashram’s property is the beautiful twelve-acre Zen garden.
The main activity of the day is the nightly Osho White Robe Brotherhood, which takes place in the Buddha Hall. The white robes are supposed to be worn only for this purpose. This meeting begins with high-energy music for ten minutes, then ten minutes of silent closed-eye meditation. Then there is a video of one of Osho’s talks. No one is permitted to enter or to leave the property until the meeting is over.

The restaurants here are very good. Only vegetarian food is served. The Mariam Restaurant is a cafeteria-style place with a good selection of items. Many of the vegetables are organically grown. There is a bank for changing money and a post office on the grounds. The bookshop is open from 9.15 am to 3.45 pm (613-6655; e-mail:cc.osho@oci.sprintrpg, eme.vsnl.net.in), 17 Koregaon Park, 2km east of the railway station.

Iyengar Yoga Institute
BKS Iyengar, whose The Illustrated Light on Yoga, is one of the famous books on hatha-yoga, teaches along with his son and daughter classes on asana and pranayama here. There is a three year waiting list to study yoga here and you need to have taken at least one years lessons in the Iyengar yoga classes. You have to apply in writing. You can take either a one or two month course. There is a celebration here yearly on December 14, the birthday of Iyengar.
The address is Ramamani Iyengar Yoga Institute (356-134), 1107 B/1 Shivajinagar, Pune 411 016.

Festivals
At the opening day of the Pune Festival, some of the best musicians and dancers in India perform. It is held in late August or early September. During the festival there are music and dance concerts, folk music performances, and various other events.

The Ganesh Chaturthi festival is an eleven-day festival held in Aug-Sept. On the eleventh day, clay statues of Ganesh, some 6m (20 ft) high, are taken in a procession and immersed in the river. This is a popular festival. There are classical music and dance performances by some the best performers in India held at this time. MTDC helps organize the event, and they can help you book accommodations.

Where to Stay—Lower
There are several lower priced hotels in the Wilson Garden area, opposite the railway station, behind the National Hotel, across from the railway station.
Hotel Alankar (620-484), Wilson Gardens, has rooms for Rs 350/400. 24-hour checkout.
Milan Lodge (622-024), 6A Tadiwala Rd, Wilson Gardens, has rooms with common bath for Rs 200/250 and Rs 300/350 for a room with a bathroom.
Hotel Homeland, Wilson Gardens, has clean rooms for Rs 350/450 and better rooms with A/C and TV for Rs 650/750. There is hot water in the morning. 24-hour checkout.
National Hotel (627-780), 14 Sassoon Rd, directly opposite the main entrance of the railway station, is an old, run-down mansion with good-sized verandahs, a small garden, and rooms with high ceilings. It is popular. There are ten quiet cottages with attached bathrooms in the back for Rs 400. A single with common bath and no windows is Rs 200. A good-sized, very clean room with bath is Rs 400. The cheaper singles are cramped. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Shalimar (629-191; fax 629-595), 612-A Connaught Rd, has rooms for Rs 360/520.
Hotel Jinna Mansion (667-158), Wilson Gardens, is a popular place with clean rooms and good bathrooms. There is hot water from 7 to 9.30 am.
Grand Hotel (668-728), MG Rd, north of Moledina Rd, is an older place on its own grounds with smelly partitioned rooms for Rs 150 and larger double rooms Rs 350. The rooms are clean but run-down. Hot water available in the morning.
Hotel Avanti (445-975), near the Swargate bus station, is a good value with clean rooms and hot water.
MTDC Hotel Saras (430-499), near the Swargate bus station, has decent rooms for Rs 300/350.
The railway Retiring Rooms are good.

Places To Stay—Middle
Hotel Woodland (626-161; fax 623-131), off Sadhu Vaswani Circle, has a selection of nice, well-maintained rooms with hot water and cable TV starting at Rs 1050/1200 and going up to Rs 2200 for a suite. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. Recommended, but often full.
Ritz Hotel (626-161), 15 Connaught Rd, which is to the left as you come out of the station and down the first main road on the right. It has large, clean, rooms for Rs 700/900.
Hotel Gulmohr’s (622-773; fax 624-672), 15 A/1 Connaught Rd, close to the railway station, has rooms with hot water and cable TV for Rs 350/550 and Rs 700/1000 with A/C.
Hotel Ashirwad (628-585; fax 626-121), 16 Connaught Rd, has large rooms with a balcony, TV, and hot water for Rs 800/900 and Rs 1100/1400 with A/C. It has a vegetarian restaurant serving good thalis.
Hotel Amir (621-840; fax 623-094), 15 Connaught Rd, has rooms with cable TV and hot water for Rs 895/1150 and Rs 1295/1545 for a deluxe room. It is a popular place with a health club and exchange facility. As the rooms are different, it is best to see a few.

Where to Stay—High
Hotel Sagar Plaza (622-622; fax 622-633), 1 Bund Garden Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 2800/3200 to Rs 3200/3500, which includes a buffet breakfast. It has a small pool and a bookshop.
Aurora Towers (631-818; fax 631-826), 9 Moledina Rd, is centrally air-conditioned and has a pool. Rooms start at Rs 2100/3000. It is a well-managed, nice place.
The five-star Pride Executive (533-4567; fax 553-3228), 5 University Rd, is a good place with clean comfortable rooms for Rs 1595/1895. It has many facilities.
Hotel Executive Ashoka (357-381; fax 57391), 5 University Rd, Sivajinagar, has rooms for Rs 3500. It is close to the university.
Holiday Inn (637-777; fax 634-747), 20 Bund Garden, has comfortable rooms for Rs 5000/5500.

Where to Stay—Near Osho Commune
If you are coming to stay at the Osho Commune International, you can stay either in a hotel, a room in someone’s apartment, or a house or your own apartment. There are no accommodations in the Commune itself. Hotels in the area are costly and are often full. When you first arrive, it is probably best to get a hotel near the railway station or to reserve a hotel near the Commune in advance and then find a more permanent location the next day. There is a detailed list of hotels in the area at the Commune’s Welcome Center.

To find a room in an apartment or your own apartment, you can go to the German Bakery and ask in the area. Also if you stand on the street outside the bakery, several people wanting to show you a room will approach you. Rooms in an apartment go for Rs 150 to Rs 300 per day depending on the quality and how long you plan to stay. Apartments close to the Commune usually cost Rs 5,000 to more than Rs 15,000 per month.

Where to Stay—Koregaon Park
This is where the Osho Commune is located.
Hotel Surya Villa (624-501; fax 639-186), 294/1 Koregaon Park, has rooms for Rs 750/850.
Hotel Gulmohar Jupiter (632-199; fax 644-913), 285 Koregaon Rd, has rooms for Rs 800.
Happy Home (622-933), 294 Koregaon Park, has flats and rooms for rent.
Hotel Sunderban (624-949; fax 623-535), 19 Koregaon Park, next to the Osho Commune, has rooms with common bath for $22 up to a deluxe room with bath for $55. It has a good-sized, well-maintained garden.
The five-star Blue Diamond Hotel (625-555; fax 627-755), 11 Koregaon Rd, is a modern place, 2km northeast of the railway station. It has a pool, a health club, and 24-hour checkout. Rooms are Rs 4500/5000 and Rs 5300/5800 for a deluxe room. It serves a buffet lunch and is often full.

Where to Eat
Sagar Restaurant, corner of Connaught Rd and Sassoon Rd, across from the railway station, serves good vegetarian meals for about Rs 30. The service is quick.
Nearby, Hotel Neelam and Hotel Preetam have Indian and Western food.
Shabree (321-551), Hotel Parichay, Fergusson College Rd, (11 am to 3 pm and 7 to 11 pm) has unlimited Maharashtrian thalis at a reasonable price.
Hotel Woodland, Sadhu Vaswant Circle, has a good vegetarian restaurant. A meal cost about Rs 100. Recommended.
Domino’s Pizza (633-022), Grafikon Arcade, Sassoon Rd, delivers within the local area. American chain, pizzas are like in the West. Prices start at Rs 110.
Shri Krishna Palace, Wilson Gardens near the railway station, is a busy, economical South Indian place.
Vandana Hotel, opposite Sambhaji Park, and the Dreamland Hotel, 2/14 Connaught Rd, opposite the railway station, have vegetarian restaurants.
There is a group of small sidewalk restaurants just south of the GPO, which is a popular place for fresh fruit juice and snacks.
Siddarths, Moledina Rd, is a vegetarian place serving Chinese and North Indian food outside.
Prems is an outdoor place with good Indian and Western food.
Kabir’s, Moledina Rd, near the junction with MG Rd, is a popular place serving Indian and vegetarian pizzas and burgers.
Kohinoor Restaurant, MG Rd, has cheap vegetarian thalis.
The Place: Touché the Sizzler, Moledina Rd, is a high-class place serving Indian and Continental food.
Sangamitra is a nice place with good Western food (high-priced).

Where to Eat—Koregaon Park
The restaurants at the Osho Commune are excellent and are some of the best places in India to eat. They are all pure vegetarian and often use organic vegetable that they have grown themselves. The strictest hygiene is maintained.
The German Bakery, North Koregaon Park Rd, (7 am to 11.30 pm) sells cinnamon rolls, cakes, fresh juices, sandwiches, cappuccino, and other items. If you are leaving the ashram, make a right and walk to the end of the road. Turn left and the bakery is immediately on your right. This is a good place to meet people.
Zen Restaurant, upstairs next to the German Bakery, is also popular.
There is a Baskin Robbins down the street from the German Bakery in the Hotel Surya Villa.
Hotel Sunderban, 19 Koregaon Park, next to Osho Commune, has a vegetarian restaurant.
Shriman serves good pizza, salad, pasta, and has a pleasant atmosphere.

Getting Around
The #4 bus goes from the Railway bus stand to Swargate via the Shivaji Nagar bus station. The Marathi #4 looks like an eight with a gap at the top.

About half the auto rickshaw drivers will use their meter. The ones who refuse to use the meter will usually ask for double the metered price.
You can rent a bicycle by the entrance of the National Hotel. Riding a bicycle in Pune can be dangerous.

Travel
Air There are daily flights to Delhi and Mumbai, and four flights a week to Bangalore and Chennai. The Indian Airlines office (633-141; Airport 689-433) is on Connaught Rd, next to the Hotel Amir. Air India (640-862), on Moledina Rd. Jet Airways (637-181); Sahara (628-355). There are flights to Ahmedabad (daily, $120), Bangalore (daily, $135), Calcutta (3 weekly, $250), Chennai (daily, $160), Delhi (2 daily, $190), Hyderabad (3 weekly, $150) and Mumbai (2 daily, $80).

There is a bus (Rs 25) into town operated by Indian Airlines (8km). It departs from Hotel Amir to the airport (667-538). An auto-rickshaw is Rs 50 and taxi Rs 100.

Train Because many of the trains going to and from Mumbai stop here, Pune is a busy station. There are many trains daily to Mumbai. For information, call the railway station at 626-575.
Good trains to Mumbai (3½ to 4½ hr) are the Shatabdi Exp #2028 (5.35 am, 3½ hr) Deccan Queen Express (7.15 am), Pragati Express (7.45 am), and Sahyadri Express (7.55 am). Some of the trains going to Mumbai stop at Dadar station. The express trains should be booked at least one day before departure at the Mumbai reservation windows to the left of the entrance. The express trains take 3½ hr; other local trains take 4½ to 5 hours.

There are daily trains to New Delhi, Bangalore (31 hr), Chennai (40 hr), Hyderabad, and Thiruvananthapuram. The Sahyadri Express (10.42 pm) and the Udyan Express (12.10 pm) are two good trains heading southeast. The daily Goa Express #2702 (3 pm) goes to Vasco da Gama via Miraj.

If you are going to Matheran, the Sahyadri Express (7.35 am) is the only express train that stops in Neral.

Bangalore Udyan Exp #6529 (7.55 am, 24½ hr); Chennai Mumbai-Chennai Exp #6011 (2 pm, 27 hr), Chennai Exp #1063 (7.50 pm, 24 hr); Delhi Jhelum Exp #1077 (5.35, 27¾ hr); Hyderabad Mumbai-Hyderabad Exp #7031 (12.35 pm, 17½ hr).

If you just entered the railway station complex, the computerized booking office is to the left, upstairs. Go to counter 1 and request a reservation slip and information on where to purchase the ticket. Reserved tickets to Mumbai are purchased downstairs.

To purchase a tourist quota ticket, buy the train ticket first. If you get a reserved seat on the train, great. If you buy a ticket and you are put on a waiting list, you then proceed to use the tourist quota. You do this by taking the ticket you purchased to the supervisor in the Office of Divisional Railway Management building, located directly to the right of the main building. The supervisor is helpful, and he will access the tourist quota for you.

Bus  There are three bus stations in Pune. From the bus stand next to the railway station, buses depart to points south, such as Mahabaleswara (3 hr), Goa (15 hr), and Kolhapur. Asiad deluxe buses to Mumbai (4 hr) depart every thirty minutes. They should be booked in advance.
Buses depart from the Shivaji Nagar bus stand to points north and northeast. There are regular buses to Aurangabad (6 hr). There are also buses to Nasik (20 a day), Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Lonavla, and Nagpur.

From the Swargate bus stand buses depart to Mumbai, Bangalore, Mahabaleswara, Solapur, Mangalore, and places in Karnataka.
The MTDC operates a deluxe bus to Mahabaleswara. They can be reserved at the tourist information counter at the railway station.
Bright Travels (629-666), Connaught Rd, in the Bharat Petrol Station, operates private luxury buses to Bangalore, Hyderabad, Aurangabad, Ahmedabad, Mangalore, and Goa. They seem trustworthy. It is a five-minute walk from the railway station. Karan Travels (663-850), 7 Konark Park, operates buses to Indore, Ahmedabad, Vadodara, and Goa.

Be careful of agents by the railway station who may charge a fifty-percent commission on a bus ticket, promising a deluxe bus and then they put you on a regular state bus.

Taxi You can take a shared-taxi from Dadar station in Mumbai to Pune. From Pune taxis depart from the taxi stand in front of the railway station (Rs 200 per person). You can also take a shared taxi from Shivaji Nagar railway station to Nasik (Rs 200 and Aurangabad (Rs 250). Call 629-657 to make a booking.

If you know of a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update our listings, please e-mail us at:

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