Maharashtra

Population: 90 million
Capital: Mumbai
Area: 307,000
Best Time to Visit: October to March
Main Language: Marathi
Literacy Rate: 63%

Maharashtra is the third largest state in India. Most people speak Marathi. Approximately 50% of the nation’s tax revenue and international trade come from this state. The main places visited in Maharashtra are Mumbai and the Ajanta and Ellora caves.

Originally the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat were united, but they were divided in 1960 on the basis of language.

Near Mumbai

Kanheri Buddhist Caves and Sanjay Gandhi Park
The Kanheri Buddhist Caves are located in Sanjay Gandhi National Park (Borivali National Park), 40km north of Mumbai. The caves are located 5km from the entrance of the park. The park is closed on Monday. 

There are 109 caves, but only a few are worth seeing. The caves date from the 2nd to the 9th centuries and were excavated into the face of a hill in the center of Salsette Island. The most interesting cave, the Great Chaitya Cave (No 3), is a columnar hall with two standing figures of Buddha, each 5m (16½ ft) tall. Caves 1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 14, 21, 34, 35, 66, and 67 are interesting, and from cave 35 there is a good view of the sea. The caves are open from 9 am to 5.30 pm. You should bring your own water as the stalls near the caves sell only cold drinks.

To get to the caves, you take a suburban train (50-min) from Churchgate Station to Borivali Station, then an auto-rickshaw or taxi (8km) to the caves. Best to arrange a roundtrip fare plus waiting time. Set the fare for the waiting time and do not let the driver keep the meter running, as it may be tampered with. The bus to that used to go to Kanheri Buddhist Caves on Sundays and public holiday no longer operates. You can also visit the caves on the MTDC suburban guided tour.
There is a Lion Safari Park (daily except Mon 9 am to 5 pm) about half a km from the park entrance. Visitors must go by auto-rickshaw either from the caves or the train station.

Esselworld has thirty-five rides. It is located on Corao Island, near Govai Creek (Borivali-W). Admission is based on height (taller than 137cm is Rs 125), and the admission fee entitles you to unlimited rides as well as a visit to the Water Sport Complex. Open daily 11 am to 7 pm.

Bassein
Located in Bassein is what remains of the Portuguese city of Bassein. Bassein is located on the northern side of the Ulhas River, which separates Mumbai and the mainland. It was once a large city that contained the Cathedral of St Joseph (1536), thirteen churches, five convents and opulent houses. The Marathas attacked the city in 1739 and the Portuguese surrendered. The city walls are still intact, as are the cathedral and some of the churches. This place is on the coast, 11km west of the Bassein (Vasai) Road railway station.

Manori Beach
Manori Beach, about 40km north of downtown Mumbai, past Juhu, is a seaside resort for Mumbai’s wealthy. There are some all-night beach parties here. For Christmas and New Years, places here have to be booked months in advance.

Domonica (444-9735) has rooms for Rs 175 per person. This place must be booked in advance for weekend stays.

Doris Pinic Spot has an assortment of rooms.
Manoribel Hotel (269-1301) has rooms for Rs 500 (Rs 600 on the weekend), and cottages for Rs 900 (Rs 1800 on the weekend). It has to be booked in advance.

To get here you first take the local train from Churchgate to Malad, and then Bus #272 or an auto-rickshaw to Marve. Then take a ferry across Manori Creek, and from there it is 2km to Manori.

Igatpuri
Located here is the Vipassana International Academy (2553 4076; fax 2533 4276) founded by the SN Goehka, which has ten-day vipassana meditation courses. During the course one has to remain silent, except to ask questions to the instructors. One meditates around eleven hours daily. There are videotapes of SN Goenka shown, during which he gives instructions on the vipassana process.

During the course you are requested to not engage in any other spiritual practices such as chanting mantras, praying and doing yoga exercises.

There is basic accommodations and Indian vegetarian food is served. You can contact the center at Dhammagiri, PO Box 6, Igatpuri, Dist. Nasik 422 403. Igatpuri is around 130km northeast of Mumbai, on the train line to Nasik. The center is about 1km from the railway station.

Trimbak
Population 8,000

The town of Trimbak (“three eyes”) is 30km west of Nasik. One of the twelve Siva Jyotirlingas is located here, and it is close to the source of the holy Godavari River. There is also an impressive Maratha Fort on the nearby hill.

Trimbakeswara Temple
The three lingas in this 18th century temple, dedicated to Trimbakeswara, are eye-shaped. Tri means “three,” and ambak means “eye.” The three-eyed deity is Lord Siva. Trimbakeswara is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. This interesting temple was built in 1730 by Baji Rao Peshwa, and it cost almost 1 million rupees. There is a large tower over the sanctuary.

Non-Hindus are not permitted into the temple, but they are permitted to climb the steps and to look inside. I went inside and no one said anything.
Source of Godavari River

Trimbak is the source of the Godavari, which is one of the most important holy rivers in India. This river flows almost 1,000km east to the Bay of Bengal. It is said that this is the exact spot where the drop of nectar fell from the Kumbha vessel, for which the Kumbha-mela is famous. To reach Gangasagar, a tank of water fed by the Godavari’s source, you must climb a flight of 690 stairs. It is said that both the Ganges and Godavari emanate from the same source and meet in an underground passage. Bathing here is said to cleanse you of the worst sins.

The roundtrip climb to Brahmagiri, the Godavari’s source, takes two or three hours and is best done in the morning. It is a difficult climb, so you should bring water with you. On the way, you will pass a temple dedicated to the Goddess Ganga, a cave containing 108 Siva-lingas, a temple dedicated to the sage Gautama Rishi, whose ashram was said to be here, and the remains of the Anjeri Fort. About twenty minutes from the Anjeri Fort is the Gaumukha (Mouth of the Cow) Temple, where the source of the Godavari is located.

Kushawarth Tirtha
A few minutes’ walk from the Trimbakeswara Temple is Kushawarth Tirtha, a bathing tank, said to contain Ganges water. This place is mentioned in the Puranas. It is said to have been named for the sacred kusha grass that used to grow in profusion around it.

Practicalities
Trimbak is a nice, peaceful place, so you may want to stay overnight. The MTDC Tourist Bungalow is the best place to stay, but it is quite basic. All the eating places are basic.
There are hourly buses from Nasik (45 min) from the City bus stand. You can take a bus back to Nasik or one of the shared taxis that wait outside the bus stand.

Khaildabad (Rauza)
Khaildabad is located between the Ellora caves and Aurangabad. At this place is the modest mausoleum of Aurangzeb, the cost of which was funded by the income he received by personally copying the Koran. There are several shrines of Sufi saints nearby.

The mausoleum of the Muslim saint, Sayeed Zain-ud-din, is located close to Aurangzeb’s tomb. Embedded in the steps leading to the tomb are polished semi-precious stones. Located here is the Robe of the Prophet, which is shown once a year on the twelfth day of the month of Rabi-ul-Awwal (usually November). This is a major event.

Close by is the mausoleum of Sayeed Burha-ud-din (1334), a Chishti saint and what are said to be hairs from the Prophet’s beard.

Buses come here about every half-hour from Aurangabad.

Daulatabad Fort
The interesting Daulatabad Fort is located 13km (9 mile) northwest of Aurangabad on the road to Ellora. A 5km wall surrounds the fort, and it has a central fort built on volcanic lava rock, 200m above the rest of the area.

The Yadava dynasty’s Bhilama Raja constructed it in the 12th century. Daulatabad means “City of Fortune.” In 1327 the Delhi sultan, Mohammed Tughlaq (who was known to be insane), seized Daulatabad and decided to make it his capital. He marched the residents of Delhi here and seventeen years later marched them back. Many of the residents died on the 1100km (690 mile) march.

Three walls surround the fort. The first gate of the fort has huge elephant spikes to prevent elephant attacks. The Jama Masjid, built in 1318 by the Delhi sultan, is constructed from the remnants of Hindu and Jain temples in the area, including 106 carved pillars. The Chand Minar victory tower (1435) is near the mosque. Nearby is the Elephant Tank, the fort’s water supply.

The third gate is known as Chini Mahal, and it is where Aurangzeb imprisoned the last ruler of Golconda in 1687 for thirteen years. The huge (6m) cannon called Qila Shikan (Fort Breaker) is on a tower at the bottom of the hill.

The bottom of the hill was surrounded by a moat containing crocodiles. Until recently, the only entrance to the Central Fort on top of the hill was a pitch-black tunnel 190m (640 ft) long. No attacker ever made it to the top, but it was captured by putting the fort to siege. The water supply ran out.

To get to the top, attackers had to climb through the long, tortuous tunnel in the dark, which at one point divides and meets again so that enemy soldiers might attack one another unknowingly in the dark. Also, defenders could throw hot coal into the tunnel to fill it with toxic fumes. If an attacker survived all that, he would be forced to crawl the last few metres of the tunnel, so one could be attacked while he was bent over.
At the end of the tunnel is an interesting 12-pillared hall. There are great views from the top of the hill. There is a huge cannon and an ancient rock-cut cave.

You can stop here on the way to the Ellora caves, which the tour buses do. But they do not stop long enough to get a good look at the place. There are regular buses to here from Aurangabad (every hour). The resident guides who bring you to the top of the fort with the help of a torch do a good job. Without a good flashlight you cannot see anything in the passageways. Open daily dawn to 6 pm. There is a small MTDC restaurant here.

Jalgaon
Pop: 250,000 Area Code: 0257

To get to the Ajanta Caves (58km south, 1½ hr), you may have to stop here. There is nothing to see in this town. Most people will only stay here while traveling between the caves and somewhere else. Jalgaon is on the main Mumbai to Delhi line.

Where to Stay
The railway Retiring Rooms are a good value.
PWD Rest House (29702) is a good place with rooms for Rs 125 per person.
Tourist Hotel (225-192), Nehru Chowk, half a km from the railway station to the right, has rooms with bath for Rs 175/200 and deluxe rooms for Rs 300/350.
The nearby Hotel Morako (26621) has rooms for Rs 300/400 and Rs 650 with A/C.
Amram Guest House (226-549), by the station, is one of the better budget hotels.
The new Hotel Plaza (227-354), Station Rd, is the best mid-range place. It has clean rooms with bath and TV for Rs 200/250. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Galaxy (23578) has rooms with TV for Rs 200/300 and Rs 550 with A/C.
Hotel Anjali, right outside the station to the right, has good, clean room for Rs 250/300. It has a good veg restaurant.

Travel
The railway station is on the main Delhi-Mumbai line, so several trains a day depart from here to Mumbai (8 hr) and to Delhi. Trains also go to Bhopal (8 hr) and Nagpur.

There is an hourly bus to Ajanta which continues on to Aurangabad (4 hr). Be sure to confirm that the bus stops at the caves, as some buses go only as far as Fardapur, four km from Ajanta.

Lonar Meteorite Crater
Located about five hours northeast of Aurangabad, at Lonar, is a huge crater formed by a falling meteorite, believed to be 40,000 years old. The crater is 2km in diameter and hundreds of metres deep. Hindu temples have been constructed at the bottom of the crater. This is a nice peaceful place to visit.

The MTDC Hotel, next to the crater, has basic rooms for Rs 50. They also have a big tent to stay in, but it has no beds and you have to sleep on the ground.

To get here, you can take a train or bus from Aurangabad to Jalna, and from there a bus. There is a bus from Fardapur (1½ hr) to Buldhana, from where you take another bus to Lonar.

Sevagram
Mahatma Gandhi established an ashram here in 1936 and used it as his base until Independence. There are adobe huts, present during Gandhi’s time, including huts where Gandhi lived (Niwases and Kutirs)—all of which have been left exactly as they appeared in the 1930s.

His hut includes his original bed and some of his personal items—his spinning wheel, his three brass monkeys, and his glasses. In Mahatma Gandhi’s office is a phone put in by the British as a “hot-line” to Delhi. It is a very friendly place, and tours are easily available. There are multi-faith prayer meetings held under the pipal tree Gandhi planted (4.45 and 6 pm),

The Centre of Science for Villages has a photo exhibit of his life. It also has exhibits illustrating the concept of Gandhi’s self-sufficient village economics. There is a shop that sells khadi (hand-spun cotton) products and books by Gandhi. The Kasturba Gandhi Hospital, named after Gandhi’s wife, provides discount health care for the local villagers. Phone: 07152 43526.

Practicalities
The Yatri Nivas, at the ashram, has basic rooms and vegetarian meals for a donation. In Wardha, twenty minutes away, there is an MTDC Hotel with rooms for Rs 250/300 and dorm beds Rs 75. 8 am checkout.

The closest railway stations are in Sevagram and Wardha. Express trains take 1 hr from Nagpur. Buses from Nagpur to Wardha take 2½ hours. There are regular buses from Wardha to the ashram (twenty minutes). From Sevagram railway station it costs Rs 70 by auto-rickshaw.

Paunar
Located in Paunar, 3km from Sevagram, is the ashram of Gandhi’s good friend and disciple, Vinoba Bhave, founded in 1938. It was established following the principle of swarajya, or self-sufficiency. Taking place here is hand-spinning cloth, milk production, and food growing. The sadhaks in this ashram are almost all women.
There is a Memorial on the bank of the Paunar River which marks where some of Gandhi’s ashes were scattered, and another memorial where Vinoba’s ashes were placed. Every February 12th, over a 100,000 people come here to celebrate the anniversary of Gandhi’s death.
It is possible to stay at the ashram in a private room or a dorm, if they are available. You get to Paunar from Nagpur or Wardha by bus (ask to be let down at the correct place). You can also walk here from Sevagram.

Ramtek
Ramtek, 40km northeast of Nagpur, has a fort that contains several ancient hilltop temples (on Ramtek Hill). It is said that Rama and Sita came here on their way back from Lanka. Most of the main temples are dedicated to Sita and Rama. The famous Sanskrit poet Kalidas also lived here, and this is where he wrote his famous work Meghdoot. Most of the temples date from the 18th century. There are good views from on top of the hill.

About a 1km from Ramtek Hill is the holy Ramsagar Lake, where several temples are located.

The MTDC Holiday Resort (07114 55620) has basic rooms for Rs 175 and dorm beds.

There are regular buses to here from Nagpur (1 hr).

Taroba National Park
This park, located 45km from Chandrapur and 150km from Nagpur, is home to tigers, leopards, sambars, wild boars, jackals, gaurs, chitals, nilgais, marsh crocodiles and, water birds. It has a teak and bamboo forest and a lake. The best times to visit are November to June, and especially during March to May.

Minibuses go on tours of the park. The best time to go out is in the evening or at night (use a searchlight).

There are three basic Forest Rest Houses near the lake. They should be arranged in advance with the Division Forest Officers, W Chanda Division, Mul Rd, Chandrapur.

The Mayur Hotel (3712) is located in Chandrapur on Mul Rd, 1km from the railway station.

Karla and Bhaja
The Hinayana Buddhist caves at Karla and Bhaja, dating from the 2nd century BC, are some of the best cave temples in India. The caves can be very crowded on weekends and holiday, so best to visit on a weekday. The caves are nowhere near as impressive as Ellora and Ajanta, but are worth seeing if you are passing through.

Karla (Karli) Cave
Located in Karla is the largest and best-preserved Hinayana Buddhist cave temple in India. The caves here were carved around 80 BC.
The chaitya hall (40m long, 15m wide) has wooden teak beams supporting the ceiling. It also contains thirty-seven pillars, each of which are supported by a kneeling elephant with the figure of a person on top. Outside the cave there is a pillar with four lions standing back to back at the top. The caves are open 8 am to 6 pm. Admission Rs 1 for Indians and US$5 foreigners.

Bhaja Caves
Bhaja is an easy 5km walk from Karla. When you reach Bhaja village there are steps that lead up to 19 caves, all of which date from the 2nd century BC.

The caves here are not so impressive, but they do contain some good sculptures. Cave 12 is the most interesting. The sculpture of a war elephant tearing up trees is interesting.

On the right side, behind Cave 12, are fourteen small stupas. In Cave 19 (the last cave) there are good carvings. Viewing the caves is free for Indians, but US$5 for foreigners.

There is a waterfall a few minutes walk past the last cave.

The Lohaged (4km) and Visapur Forts are a good climb above the caves.

Bedsa
There are also Buddhist Caves in Bedsa, about 20km from Karla and 12km from Bhaja. The chaitya hall is fairly simple. From the town of Bedsa it is an uphill walk for 3km.

Practicalities
Peshwa Holiday Resorts, near the Karla caves, is a decent place to stay with rooms from Rs 200/350 and Rs 650 for an A/C cottage.
Karla is about 126km southeast of Mumbai. You can get to Karla by taking a train (2 hr) from Mumbai to Lonavla. From Lonavla, it is a 14km bus or taxi ride to the foot of the hill at Karla. During the monsoon, the road may be closed. Karla is 1km north of the main road and Bhaja is 3km south of the main road.

It is a 5km (1½ hr) walk from Karla to Bhaja. From Bhaja it is a 3km (1 hr) walk to Malavli, from where you can take a local train to Lonavla.
An auto-rickshaw from Lonavla railway station to Karla and Bhaja (plus waiting time) is about Rs 300; a taxi Rs 500.

Near Pune

Sinhagad (Sinhagard)
Visiting Sinhagad (Lion Fort) is an interesting day-trip from Pune (24km northwest). This ruined fort, located on a high hill, is where Tanaji Malasure, one of Shivaji’s generals, led a successful attack on the fort controlled by the Bijapur kingdom. It is said that the Marathas took the fort by engaging Yashwati, an iguana to carry a rope ladder up the hillside to the fort so they could scale the almost impregnable wall. There is a monument where Tanaji lost his left hand and another where he eventually died. It is said that when Shivaji heard about Tanaji’s death he said “I have won the fort but have lost my lion.” Thus the fort was named Sinhagad, “Lion Fort.” There is a house here where Mahatma Gandhi met the freedom fighter Tilak in 1915.

From Pune, Bus #50 comes to the village of Sinhagad at the bottom of the hill on which the fort is situated. You catch the bus at the bus stop across from Nehru Stadium. There is a road leading up to the fort, which can be reached by car. If you come by local bus, the place where the bus lets you off is about a two-hour, difficult trek up the hill. You should bring water and food with you.

Near Mahabaleswara

Panchgani
Panchgani is a popular hill station, 20km east of Mahabaleswara. It is a pleasant place with some good viewpoints.

Hotel Simla (40235), near the bus stand, has nice rooms built around a garden for Rs 200/275 (Rs 400/600 during season).

Hotel Prospect (40236) is a British built hotel with big, comfortable roosm for Rs 800 (Rs 1100 during season). It is on a hill.

Pratapgarh Fort
This impressive fort (1656), 24km from Mahabaleswara, contains a statue of Shivaji. At this place, Shivaji, leader of the Marathas, and Afzal Khan, the general of the Bijapur army, decided to meet about a possible truce. Neither was supposed to carry weapons or wear armor, but Afzal Khan hid a knife and during the meeting, stabbed Shivaji, who was wearing a mail shirt under his robe. Shivaji then pulled out his waghnakh (metal claws) with his left hand and killed Afzal Khan. Located here is a memorial to Shivaji, and Afzal Khan’s tomb.

There is great view of the area surrounding the fort.

The MTDC tour from Mahabaleswara comes here. A bus from Mahabaleswara takes one hour (24km).

Satara
Located here are former possessions of the famous Maratha leader, Shivaji. Near the palace is a building containing the waghnakh with which he killed Afzal Khan, and his mail shirt. His sword is also here. The Shivaji Maharaja Museum is across from the bus station.

Wasota Fort is south of the city. Aurangzeb and his army took it from the Marathas in 1699. It was retaken by the Marathas in 1705.
Satara is 40km south of Mahabaleswara.

Raigad Fort
Shivaji ruled from this fort during the later part of his life after capturing it in 1648 (he was crowned Maharaja of the Marathas in 1674). Shivaji died in the fort in 1680. The fort is located 80km northwest of Mahabaleswara. Visitors must climb 1,400 steps to the top of the hill to where the fort is actually located. There are several buildings in the fort. In the northeast corner is Shivaji’s Samadhi (memorial tomb) along with a chhatri for his dog. It is possible to hire a dhoolie and to be carried up the steps.

There are great views from the fort, especially looking out at the lakes to the north.

There is a MTDC tourist bungalow here with rooms for Rs 350.

There are buses to Pune (125km) and Mumbai (210km).

Murud & Janjira Fort
Murud is 160km south of Mumbai. Off the coast is the Janjira Fort, the 16th century capital of the Siddis of Janjira. It is reached from the village of Murud by boat (around Rs 50). The fort with its 14m high walls was impregnable. Both Shivaji and his son Sambhaji tried to unsuccessfully take the fort.

About 1km north of Murud is the hilltop Dattatreya Temple. Dattatreya has three heads, which represents Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva. There is a good view from the hill.

The 18th century Nawab’s Palace is 2km north of Murud. It is closed, but you may be able to get the watchman to let you in. It has stained glass windows, carved and marble antique furniture, and old photos.

Practicalities
Ruchit (021447 4219), a three-minute walk from the bus stand next to the beach, has four rooms for Rs 600. It is a well-managed place with a good garden and a good restaurant.

MTDC Beach Resort (021447 4078) has basic rooms for Rs 700/1100.

Buses departing Mumbai Central take six hours to arrive in Murud. Two express buses arrive at 6 am and 11 am, which should be booked in advance. The nearest railway station is at Indapur.

Kashid
Kashid, 140km south of Mumbai, has 3km of beautiful, clean beaches. It is a good place for swimming.

Kashid Beach Resort (02144 85010; Mumbai 262-5406) has rooms with an ocean view for Rs 1100. It has a pool.

It takes four hours to arrive in Kashid on a bus from Mumbai Central.

Solapur
Pop: 640,000

Visitors may have to travel through Solapur to catch a train.

There are railway Retiring Rooms and dorm beds available.

Rajdhani (23291), 26 Railway Lines, has basic rooms and an A/C restaurant.

Surya International (29501; fax 29505), 3/2/2 Murarji Path, has rooms for Rs 400/500 and Rs 600/700 with A/C.

Pratham (29581; fax 28724), Sadar Bazaar, has clean, comfortable rooms with bath for Rs 550/650. It is well-managed and has a good, outdoor restaurant.

There are many trains departing from Solapur to Mumbai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai, and Bijapur.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides