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Ellora

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There are thirty-four elaborately carved caves at Ellora, 30km northwest of Aurangabad. The twelve southern caves are Buddhist, the seventeen caves in the center are Hindu, and the five northern caves are Jain. They were built in that order (Buddhist, Hindu, Jain) between the 7th and 13th centuries AD. They extend for about 2km.

The carvings and sculptures are impressive.
The main site is cave 16, the Kailash Temple, which is one of the most magnificent structures in the world. The Kailash Temple is not really a cave but a temple carved out of the rocks in the side of a hill. It is open from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm and is best viewed in the late afternoon.

The caves are numbered consecutively from south to north, but they were not built in that order. It is believed that carving on the Hindu caves began before the Buddhist caves were finished. Caves 1, 5, 10, and 12 are good examples of Buddhist caves. Cave 16, the Kailash Temple, is the best example of cave architecture in India. Cave 32 is a good example of Jain sculptural art. These few caves give a good overview of all the other caves.
The caves were dug out of a slope in the hill in a north–south direction. They face west, so they receive light from the setting sun. All the caves were carved from the top to the bottom, so workers did not require scaffolding.

For some unknown reason, Ajanta was abandoned around the 7th century and the people making the caves moved to Ellora, 100km south.

The caves are open from sunrise to sunset. It takes at least three hours to see the caves. You can hire a guide through the Tourist Office in Aurangabad or at the site.

NOTE The caves may be closed on Mondays.
Buddhists Caves

Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist caves. Only cave 10 is a chaitya (temple). All the other Buddhists caves are viharas (monasteries). These caves are not as architecturally interesting as the Hindu caves.
Cave 2 has well-carved pillars and figures of the Buddha. In the middle of the back wall is a 3m (10 ft) tall seated Buddha on a lion throne. There are two large, standing dwarapalas (door guards). Padmapani, holding a lotus on the left, and Maitreya, the future Buddha, stands on the right. On the side walls are carvings of seated Buddhas.
Cave 3 is similar, with a Buddha sitting on a lotus at the end of the cave.

Cave 5 is the biggest Buddhist cave (35m by 17m) and seems to have been an assembly or dining hall. On the first pillar to the left there are impressive carvings. Buddha is seated at the back of the cave on a chair. This cave has a 35m long assembly hall.

Cave 6 has a large seated Buddha. There are two famous statues in this cave, the Buddhist goddess of learning, Mahamayuri, with a peacock and surrounded by Buddhist figures, and one of Tara (the consort of the Avalokitisvara).

Cave 10 is called Viswakarma or the “Carpenter Cave.” This cave is named after Viswakarma, the architect of the demigods. It is the only chaitya (chapel) cave in Ellora. There is a beautiful 4.5m image of the Buddha in the cave. Light comes into the cave through a horseshoe window. This cave has a second storey, reached by a flight of stairs inside the cave.

Cave 11 (8th century) is 3-storeys. At first this cave was believed to have just two-storeys, but the third storey was later discovered. The third storey is interesting. On the rear wall arxe "Bassein" e sculptures of Ganesh and Durga.
The three-storey Cave 12 (8th century) is a monastery with a large seated Buddha surrounded by a row of seven Buddhas (said to represent the Buddha in previous incarnations), and an open courtyard in front.

Hindu Caves 14 and 15
Cave 14 (7th century), Rava Kakhai, contains sculptures of Varaha (half-boar), Lakshmi, and Siva. At the entrance of the sanctum are sculptures of the river goddesses Yamuna and Ganga. Nearby are carvings of the Sapta Matrikas, with babies on their legs.

The walls of this cave have excellent sculptures. On the left side from front to back is: Durga killing the buffalo demon; Lakshmi, the Goddess of Fortune; Varaha, Vishnu in the form of a half-boar; and Vishnu with his two consorts.

On the right wall there are carvings of Siva and his pastimes. There is a carving of Siva playing chess with his wife Parvati, one of Siva dancing the Tandava (Nataraja), and another of Siva peacefully ignoring Ravana’s attempt to shake Mount Kailash.

Cave 15 (mid-8th century) is called the Dasa Avataras (Ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu) Cave. It is one of the more impressive caves. There is a Nandi bull and many sculptures of Lord Siva. On the upper floor are some of the most outstanding carvings in Ellora, including Lord Narasimha (Lord Vishnu as half-lion) and Lord Vishnu rescuing Gajendra, the elephant.

Kailash Temple Cave 16
The Kailash Temple is a Siva temple with a large linga in the shrine. It is the largest and most magnificent rock-cut temple in the world and is considered one of the wonders of India. 3 million cubic feet of rock was chiseled away to complete the temple buildings, life-size elephants, and sculptures. It is estimated that to carve the Kailash Temple, 200,000 tons of rock had to be removed by thousands of workers for over 150 years.

Archaeologists estimate it took thousands of skilled stone cutters seven to eight generations to construct this temple. It is comparable to the Pyramids. It is twice the size of the Parthenon of Athens and 1½ times as high. It is 81m long, 47m wide, and 33m high. It was carved out of the side of a hill from the top down.

There are carvings telling the pastimes of the Ramayana and Mahabharata on the temple walls. On the south side of the mandapa (hall) is a remarkable sculpture depicting Siva crushing Ravana underfoot when Ravana desired to lift Siva’s Kailash Mountain and shake it. Other impressive carvings are the Ravana-ki-Khai, or Abode of Ravana, and the Dasa Avatara, or ten incarnations of Vishnu.

Other Hindu Caves
The rest of the Hindu caves are not nearly as interesting as the Kailash Temple cave.

Cave 21, the Rameswara Cave (late 6th century), has a carving of Siva dancing and Durga killing the buffalo demon. It has an inner sanctum and is one of the more interesting caves. It has a courtyard with a Siva-linga and a Nandi bull in the middle. There is an interesting sculpture of the goddesses Yamuna and Ganga (standing on a crocodile).

The large Cave 29 is also worth seeing. It has carvings of Lord Siva’s pastimes as the destroyer.
Jain Caves

Caves 30–34 are Jain caves. They are located 1km north of the last Hindu temple (cave 29). The Jain caves are not as dynamic as the Hindu caves. If it is hot, you may want to take a rickshaw to these caves.

Cave 31, the Chota Kailash (Little Kailash) was never finished.

Cave 32, the Assembly Hall of Indra, is the most impressive of the Jain temples. It is dedicated to Mahavir, the 24th tirthankara. The ground floor is plain, but the upstairs has intricate carvings.

Cave 33 and Cave 34 are also interesting.

Ghrisneswara Temple
Nearby is the important 18th century Ghrisneswara Siva Temple, in the village of Verul, about 1km from the Ellora caves. This temple contains one of the twelve Siva Jyotirlingas.

Where to Stay and Eat
Hotel Kailash (02347 41043), 200m from the Kailash Temple, has rooms with baths for Rs 450/550 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C and a view of the caves. There are also more basic rooms for Rs 150. There is a restaurant here (7 am to 9.30 pm).
Hotel Natraj (02437-41043) has rooms for Rs 150/200 and dorm beds for Rs 75.
Foodwala’s Ellora Restaurant, near the caves, is open 8 am to 6 pm.
Many hotels and restaurants in Aurangabad will make packed lunches.

Travel
There is an airport and railway station 29km away at Aurangabad. From Aurangabad there are daily MTDC or ITDC bus tours (definitely rushed). There are local buses leaving every half-hour from Aurangabad for the Caves (6 am to 6 pm; Rs 10). From Aurangabad a taxi costs Rs 500 roundtrip to go to both Daulatabad Fort and the Ellora caves.

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