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Orchha Orchha is an abandoned 17th century city, located about 16km from Jhansi. It can be visited easily while going to and from Khajuraho. Orchha was the capital of the Bundela kingdom in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was eventually abandoned in 1783 after being attacked by the Mughals and the Marathas. What is left are ancient palaces and temples, untouched by time. Orchha means “hidden.” Orchha became the capital city of Maharaja Rudra Pratap Bundela in
1531. Maharaja Bir Singh Deo (1605-27), known as the greatest Bundela
king, made friends with Emperor Jahangir, who visited Orchha. Under
Bir Singh Deo, the kingdom expanded and took up the whole Bundelkhand
region. The Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, was angered by the Bundela rulers
and attacked Orchha, which led to its slow deterioration. There is a Walkman tour for Rs 25 (Rs 500 deposit) available at the reception of the Hotel Sheesh Mahal. The tour covers the three main palaces and takes about two hours (I took one hour). It is useful way to get around, but can be boring in places (fast-forward when it gets boring). To get to the hotel entrance, walk toward the palace area (west). When you come to a dead end you go right up some stairs and then make a quick left. Palaces Area Upon exiting Raj Mahal, make a left and go down the stairs. You will come to the Public Audience Hall. The path then curves and descends, and then goes toward the right. On your left will be the Rai Praveen Mahal (follow the arrows), said to have been built for Maharaja Indramani’s favorite dancing courtesan. You can go up to the top floor. You then continue on the path and you come to a Gate, which you go
through and then go to the right up the hill, passing the camel stables.
This brings you to the main door of the Jahangir Mahal Palace.
The door may be locked; in which case you may have to be adventurous
enough to find a way in. If you are unsuccessful in entering on this
side, you need to retrace your steps to the entrance to the Sheesh Mahal
Hotel. There are two stone elephants at the entrance, carved to honor
Emperor Jahangir on his visit to Orchha in 1606. This is the nicest
of the palaces and it is an interesting place to walk around. The Jahangir
Mahal has balconies, decorated domes, and walkways. From the east facing
second-floor balconies, you can get a good view of the entire Orchha
area. The Lakshmi Narayan Temple is on top of a hill, a fifteen-minute walk west of the town. It is built like a fort with high walls surrounding it. There are well-preserved murals painted on the temple’s ceiling, some dating from the 19th century. The Bundela Royal Chhatris (cenotaphs), south of town
on the bank of the Betwa River, is an interesting place to visit. The
Bundelas cremated their dead, but built mausoleums for them. If you are coming from Khajuraho, you can get down at the junction
for Orchha and catch a tempo the rest of the way (7km). |
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