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Mandu

Area Code: 07292

Mandu is a deserted fort and city spread out over a peaceful 22 sq km plateau in the Vindhya Range. It is one of the most fascinating places in India. Mandu has great ruins in a sensational setting. There is a sheer drop to the south and a great view of the Narmada valley below (especially during sunset). Most of the structures were built between 1401 and 1525.

Mandu can be visited on a day trip from Indore, but it a worth staying overnight or even for a few days. It is a pleasant place to stay. The area is popular in December and January, so if you plan to come at that time, it is a good idea to book a room in advance by phone.

History
Raja Bhoj (of Bhopal) founded Mandu in the 10th century. The Muslim rulers from Delhi took the city in 1304, and a governor appointed by Delhi ruled the Malwa area. Malwa became an independent kingdom in 1401 under the Afghan governor Dilawar Khan Ghuri. His son, Hoshang Shah, moved the capital from Dhar to Mandu. Mandu was a major city in the 14th century, at which time it was named Shadiabad (“City of Joy”). Much of the city was built in the Afghan style, inspired by its builder, Hoshang Shah. Akbar conquered the city in 1561, after which time the city declined. When the Marathas took control in 1732, the capital of Malwa was moved to Dhar, and the city was all but deserted.

Information
The Archaeological Survey of India’s good guidebook, Mandu (Rs 11), can be purchased at the Taveli Mahal in the Royal Enclave. It lists buildings not listed in this book.

There are some great views from Sunset Point, in front of the Lohani caves, near Hoshang Shah’s Tomb.

Royal Enclave
The large 15th century Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), just inside the gateway, was built by Sultan Ghiyas Shah for his harem. It was known as the “Ship Palace” because it is long and narrow (120m by 15m) and flanked by two artificial lakes. It once had pools and canals as well. There is a good view from the rooftop terrace.

The Hindola Mahal (Swing Palace, 1425) received its name because of its sloping walls, which makes it appear as if it were swaying. It has a ramp that allowed the sultan to ride his elephant up to the upper floor without having to dismount.

Located directly south of the Jahaz Mahal is the Taveli Mahal, now the Archaeological Museum (not much in it). Open daily 9.30 am to 5.30 pm.

Next to the north shore of Munja Talao Lake is the Champa Baoli, an underground well with underground chambers to keep cool. To the north is the Mosque of Dilawara Khan (1405).

The Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate) was the main gate. North of this gate is the imposing Delhi Gate, the most impressive of all of the gates. There is a great view from on top of this gate.

Central (Village) Group
Jama Masjid (1454) is built in the Afghan style. This mosque is large with a simplistic design. It has a huge courtyard and a large prayer hall.
Behind the mosque is the white marble Mausoleum of Hoshang Shah (d. 1435), built by his son in the 15th century. It has carved, lattice marble screens and a central dome surrounded by four small domes. Shah Jahan was so impressed by it that he sent his architects to examine it before building the Taj Mahal.

Across from the Jama Masjid is the Ashrafi Mahal, the remains of a huge tomb. It had a seven-storey victory tower, but only the base remains. Much of it is in ruin. It was originally a madrasa (theological college), and the individual student compartments can still be seen.

The road behind Hoshang Shah’s tomb leads to the Royal Enclave.

Rewa Kund (Lake) Complex
This area was named after the tank, which supplies water to the palaces in the area. Rewa Kund is a peaceful area located about 3km south of the village.

Baz Bahadur Palace (1509) was built in a combination of Mughal and Rajasthani styles. It is situated on the bank of Rewa Kund. Baz Bahadur was the last independent ruler of Mandu.

Baz Bahadur built Roopmati’s Pavilion for his favorite dancer, Roopmati. It is said that when Akbar came here to get Roopmati, Baz Bahadur made a run for it and Roopmati took poison and died. Akbar stayed for a while and the city was left deserted after his departure. The main road ends here, and there is a sheer 250m drop. There are excellent views from the palace and it is a great place to watch the sunset.

East of Rewa Kund is the Hathi Mahal (Elephant Palace). It was named for the pillars supporting the dome, which are huge, like elephant legs. The Tomb of Darya Khan is near by.

Nil Kanth Temple (Palace)
This temple is dedicated to Siva, but was once a Mughal pleasure palace with water flowing over stones. This temple is dedicated to a form of Siva known as Nila-kanth, or “blue-throated.” Lord Siva received this name when he drank the poison churned from the Milk Ocean and his throat turned blue. It is a great place to watch the sunset.
To get to this temple, go to the southern end of the village. Turn right (west) at the fork in the main road. The temple is 3km away, down some steps.

Jain Temples
There are several temples located here dedicated to the Jain tirthankaras. There is a museum type area with a replica of Palitana.

Where to Stay and Eat
The MP Tourism places should be booked in advance at the tourist office in Indore (0731 541-818).
MPTDC Tourist Cottages (63235), 2km south of the village, has spacious cottages with bath and hot water for Rs 400/500 and Rs 800/900 with A/C. It is located in a great location overlooking the lake. It has an outdoor restaurant. Recommended.
Travellers’ Lodge (63221), 1km from the bus stop, has rooms with bath with hot water for Rs 350/450 (Rs 50 extra to use the air-cooler). It is well-located in a pleasant location. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Rupmati (63270) has large, clean rooms with bath for Rs 350/400 (air-cooling Rs 50 extra) and Rs 600 with A/C. It is in a pleasant location and has a restaurant serving Indian and Chinese food.
Ram Dharamsala at the Ram Mandir has basic rooms with a mattress on the floor for Rs 70 and Rs 90 with a fan.
Hotel Maharaja (63280), Jahaz Mahal Rd, between the village and Royal Enclave, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 125/175. It is friendly and the best budget place.
Tourist Rest House (63234)), managed by SADA, opposite the Jama Masjid, has basic rooms for Rs 150 (hot water in a bucket).
Rain Besera, managed by SADA and near their office, has rooms for Rs 300.
Hotel Shivani, near the Traveller’s Lodge, has good, inexpensive vegetarian food.

Local Travel
You can rent a bicycle at the shops near the Jama Masjid or from VIP Wine Shop, near the main square, for Rs 3 per hour or Rs 20 per day. You can rent an auto-rickshaw to see the sites. Mandu is a pleasant place to walk around. It costs Rs 25 return from the bus stand to Rupmati’s Pavilion.

Travel
There are regular buses to Dhar (1½ hr, 35km), from where there are regular buses to Indore (4 hr). There are also two daily direct buses to Indore. A taxi from Indore costs about Rs 800 for the day. There is also a fast-paced tour starting in Indore that comes here (see tours in Indore section). Buses stop near the Jama Masjid.

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