Madhya Pradesh

Population: 80 million
Capital: Bhopal
Area: 443,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: September to February
Language: Hindi
Literacy Rate: 43%

Madhya Pradesh is right in the middle of India. In Hindi, Madhya Pradesh means “Middle State.” Madhya Pradesh is the largest state according to area, but much of the state is dry and can be extremely hot in the summer. The old name for Madhya Pradesh was Malwa.

The most popular tourist site in the state is the temples at Khajuraho in the isolated north. Madhya Pradesh has the largest tiger population in India, and Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Park are the best places to visit if you wish to see them. Jabalpur, known for its marble rocks, is in the center of the state. There are ten-thousand-year-old cave paintings in Bhimbetka, south of Bhopal.

Mandu and Orchha are interesting, deserted cities. It is convenient to visit Orchha while going to or from Khajuraho by bus, if one is passing through Jhansi. Gwalior has one of the largest and most interesting forts in India. Other places of interest are Sanchi, with its Buddhist monuments, Ujjain, an important Hindu holy place, Bhopal, and Indore.

It is best to visit Madhya Pradesh from November to February when the weather is pleasant during the day and cool at night. April to June see desert-like heat, with temperatures rising above 40ºC (104ºF). This is a good time to visit the national parks, because during the dry season, the animals come out of the jungles to find water.

History
For years Buddhist and Hindu dynasties ruled Madhya Pradesh. Ashoka, the emperor of the Mauryan Empire, ruled Madhya Pradesh, then known as Malwa. He built many of the Buddhist monuments at Sanchi. The area was then ruled by the Sungas, and then the Guptas. The Parmaras ruled what is now southwest Madhya Pradesh about 1,000 years ago. Bhopal was named after one of their rulers, Raja Bhoj. The Chandela dynasty, who ruled the northern part of Madhya Pradesh, built the impressive temples in Khajuraho between 950 and 1050.

Beginning in the 12th century, Muslim invaders began to come to Madhya Pradesh. Eventually, the Mughals gained control of a good part of the state. Later, the Marathas, starting in the 18th century, took control from the Mughal emperors. The British eventually took control of a good part of the state and ruled either directly or through different maharajas until Independence.

Shivpuri
Shivpuri, 115km southwest of Gwalior, was the Scindias’ former summer capital.

Located here are the Royal Chhatris (tombs), built as memorials to the Scindia rulers. They have Mughal architecture and sikharas (towers). The chhatri of Maharani Raje Scindia has a water tank in front of it. Her son Madho Rao Scindia’s chhatri has detailed carvings on the walls inlaid with onyx and lapis lazuli.

Nearby Madhav National Park is home to deer, sambar, chinkara, cheetal, nilgai, and chowsingha. There is a tiger safari (but the tigers are in a caged area), and an artificial lake for crocodiles, which also draws many species of birds. It is difficult to visit this place without a private vehicle.

Practicalities
There are several places to stay in Shivpuri.
Harish Lodge on the main road has rooms for Rs 150/200. It has a restaurant.
MPTDC Chinkara Motel (07492 31297) has rooms for Rs 400/500.
MPTDC Tourist Village (07492 33760; fax 340-371), near Bhadaiya Kund, 3km from town, has comfortable rooms for Rs 450/550 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. Best to reserve the MPTDC places several days in advance at a Madhya Pradesh tourist office.
There are buses to Shivpuri from Jhansi (85km east) and Gwalior (2 hr).

Between Gwalior and Jhansi

Sonagiri
There are several modern Jain temples about 60km south of Gwalior near xe "Sonagiri" Sonagiri. It is said that King Nangannang Kumar attained liberation here along with his followers. This place is sacred to the Digambar (“Sky-clad”) Jains. There are no hotel-type accommodations here, but you may be allowed to stay in a Jain dharamshala.

Datia
Datia, 25km north of Jhansi, has an empty palace that is worth seeing. It is impressive architecturally and has nice murals painted on the walls. This is the old palace of Raj Bir Singh Deo. The Palace also has sculptures and a good view from the top.
Also, the Bharat Garh Fort and the Karna Sagar Tank, with its ghats, ruined temples, and surrounding chhatris is located here. Raj Garh Palace, on top of a hill, has an uninteresting museum, but an interesting view.

Datia is on the main Delhi-Mumbai railway line. The station is 2km from town. You can stop here on your way between Gwalior (70km northwest) and Jhansi. There are no accommodations and only basic restaurants.

Satna
Pop: 160,000 Area Code: 07672

One may pass through xe "Satna" Satna on the way to or from Khajuraho. Other than that, there is nothing in the town to see or do. There is a Tourist Office in the Hotel Bharhut.

Where to Stay
Hotel India (22482), by the bus stand, is a good budget place with rooms with bath for Rs 125/175. It has a good cheap restaurant. Hotel Park (23017), 1½ km from the railway station, has clean rooms for Rs 120/175 and Rs 550 with A/C. It has a veg restaurant.
MP Tourism’s Hotel Bharhut (22071) is a clean place with rooms for Rs 290/340 and Rs 400/500 with A/C.
Hotel Chanakya (25026), near the railway station, has rooms for Rs 350/400 and Rs 500/600 with A/C.
Saloni Restaurant, across from the bus stand, is a good A/C veg restaurant. Hotel Savera is a good restaurant, but is not cheap.

Travel

Train The railway and bus stations are about 2km from one another. Rickshaws charge Rs 7, auto-rickshaws Rs 15. There are trains to Varanasi (7 to 8 hr, five daily), Allahabad (4 hr), Mumbai, Jabalpur, Lucknow, Calcutta, and Chennai.

Bus There are 6 am, 10 am, 2.30 pm, and 3.30 pm buses to Khajuraho. There is a morning bus to Tala (4 hr, 8 am) for Bandhavgarh National Park. There are three buses a day to Citrakoot and a morning bus to Amarkantak.

Maheshwar
This town, 91km southwest of Indore, is mentioned in the Mahabharata and Ramayana under its former name, Mahishmati. There is a fort and many temples located here. The fort contains a museum with an exhibit of items belonging to the Holkar dynasty. There are also bathing ghats along the Narmada River.

This place is often included in a tour from Indore to Mandu. There is a direct bus to here from Indore (3½ hr) at 2 pm You can also take a bus from Indore to Barwaha (73km) or Dhamnod, then take another bus to Maheshwar (45km).
The only accommodations are in basic dharamshalas.

Dhar
Dhar, 32km from Mandu and 65km west of Indore, was the capital of Malwa before Mandu became the capital in 1405. The fort here is in ruins. There is a good view from the fort’s walls. The Bhojashala Mosque (1400), a ten-minute walk west from the bus stand, is still used as a place of worship on Fridays. Also here is the abandoned Lat Masjid (1405) and the Tomb of Kamal Maula, a Muslim saint. Dhar can be visited while going to or from Mandu. It is possible to leave your luggage at the conductor’s office at the bus stand while visiting the sites.

Bagh Caves
Bagh Caves, 50km west of Mandu on the road between Indore and Vadodara, are Buddhist caves dating from between 400 and 700 AD. The caves are 6km from the village of Bagh. The caves are not in such good condition.
There is the PWD Dak Bungalow here.

Bhimbetka
Located in Bhimbetka, 45km south of Bhopal, are about 1,000 caves containing ancient paintings depicting the lives of the people of that time. The oldest paintings date back 12,000 years, and they are remarkably well preserved. They depict hunting scenes, animals, religious activities, dancing, and burials. It is best to bring drinking water and maybe a snack; as there is no place to eat near the caves.

Some of the paintings are over 10m (33 ft) long. The main colors are red and white, along with some green and yellow. The main site has been fenced off. Archaeological Survey of India guides bring people around to ten caves, which take about an hour.

Travel
To get here from Bhopal, you first take a bus to Hoshangabad or Itarsi, an hour south of Bhopal, and from there take the bus to Obaidullaganj. Get off about 6km past the town of Obaidullaganj, where there is sign in Hindi along with the number “3.2,” the distance to the cave. Ask the bus conductor to let you down at the correct place. Follow the sxe "Sanchi" ign to the right for 3.2km (about 45 min) to the hill with the paintings. It can be difficult to flag down a bus back to Bhopal from here. You can also go to Obaidullaganj and then take a rickshaw or rent a bicycle to get to the caves. A taxi from Bhopal costs about Rs 800 return.

Bhojpur
Located in Bhojpur, 29km southeast of Bhopal, is the large Bhojeswar Temple, which has a dome. The Siva-linga here is 2.3m (7.5 ft) tall and 5.5m (18 ft) in circumference (the biggest in India). The temple was never completed. Still remaining, is the earth ramp used to bring large stones to the top of the tower over the temple. Located around the temple are the masons’ marks that were normally erased when construction of a temple was completed.

Nearby is an unfinished Jain temple containing a large, 6m (29 ft) tall statue of Mahavir.

Vidisha
Pop: 110,000

Ashoka governed Vixe "Vidisha" disha in the 3rd century BC before he became emperor and his wife was born here. At that time it was the largest town in the area. There is a museum near the railway station exhibiting finds from the local area (open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm; Admission Rs 3).

You can get here by train or bus from Bhopal (55km), or by bus from Sanchi (Rs 5). From Sanchi, you can take a tonga, auto-rickshaw (Rs 30), or bike. You can hire a taxi from Bhopal to go to Sanchi, Videsha, and the Udaigiri Caves for around Rs 750.

Vidisha is the closest main railway station to Sanchi (10km south).

Udaigiri Caves
Located at Udaigiri, 6km west of Vidisha, are about twenty Gupta rock-cut cave shrines, dating from 320-600 AD. Two caves are Jain and the rest are Hindu. Cave 20 contains intricate Jain carvings. Cave 5 has an outstanding carving of a 4m tall Varaha, Lord Vishnu’s boar incarnation. On either side of this carving are the two river goddesses, Yamuna and Ganga. There is also a sculpture of a reclining Vishnu. Cave 9 contains 2.5m tall pillars in its hall.

To get here, you can take a bus to Vidisha, and from there a tonga or auto-rickshaw (Rs 75, including waiting time). You can also come here by bike from Sanchi (1½ hr ride) or Vidisha. After you pass the Betwa River, turn left to Udaigiri.

Heliodorus Pillar
This pillar, located between Vidisha (3km) and Udaigiri, was erected in 113 BC by Heliodorus, a Greek ambassador from Taxila (now in northwest Pakistan). It honors his conversion to Hinduism. It is dedicated to Krishna’s father, Vasudeva. On top of the pillar used to be Garuda, the bird carrier of Vishnu. It can be visited on the way to Udaigiri.

Udayapur
The large, red sandstone Neekantheswara Temple (11th century) has impressive carvings. The temple is built in such a way that the first rays of the sun shine on the Siva-linga. It is a good example of Indo-Aryan architecture.
Udayapur is 90km north of Sanchi. The closest railway station is in Basoda (9km). From there, you can take a local bus.

Gyaraspur
Located at this place, 50km northeast of Sanchi, are temples, a fort, and some tanks—all dating from the 9th and 10th centuries AD. The 10th century Mahadevi Temple is interesting. It is an hour’s ride from Vidisha (35km northeast). Best to come here by taxi.

Raisen
Located in Raisen, 24km south of Sanchi and 14km northwest of Bhopal, there is a Malwa Fort (1200 AD) containing the ruins of several temples, three palaces, wells, cannons, and a large tank. There are also nearby cave paintings. Visitors can stop here on their way from Bhopal to Sanchi. Best to get off the bus at the “S & M Convent School,” (1km from town), which is next to the path leading to the site. The site is a fifteen-minute climb up the hill. Bring your own bottled water, as there is none in town.

Pachmarhi
Pop: 15,000 Area Code: 07578

Pachmarhi is a peaceful hill station located about 200km southeast of Bhopal at an altitude of 1065m (3514 ft). There is a good view from the hilltop. Priyadarshini Point is the best place from which to see the surrounding countryside.

There is a big festival here at the Mahadeo Siva Temple (10km south) during Siva-ratri (Feb-March), attended by over 100,000 people.
There are also interesting cave paintings in the Mahadeo Hills—in Pachmarhi, Jalia, and Tamia.
This is a good area in which to take a walk. As some of the walks start well outside of town, a bike could be useful to reach the beginning. Rajat Pratap, a 110m waterfalls, is a nice walk from the town. Duchess Falls is one of the nicest falls in the area. It is a hard walk to reach it. Apsara Vihar is a pond, which is a nice place to visit.

Where to Stay and Eat
The high season is April to June and Dec to Jan. During the off-season, visitors can bargain for lower prices.
Hotel Natraj (52151), across from the bus stand, has double rooms for Rs 225.
New Hotel (52017), 4km from town, has rooms for Rs 150 and better rooms for Rs 300. It has a decent restaurant.
Saket (52165), Patel Marg, near the State Bank, has inexpensive, clean rooms with bath.
Holiday Homes (52099), 2km from the center of town, has double rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350. It is a friendly place.
Nandanvan Cottages (52018) has rooms for Rs 400 and Rs 500 for a deluxe room.
Nilamber Cottages (52039) has good rooms with TV, an air-cooler, and a bath with hot water for Rs 450. It is on a hill, so there is a good view.
Panchvati Huts and Cottage (52079) has large rooms for Rs 650. The restaurant is good. It is well-managed and in a good location.
Amaltas (52098) is a colonial building with rooms with bath for Rs 550/600.
Saptura Retreat (52097) is a colonial house in a peaceful location with a large verandah. It has comfortable rooms for Rs 550/700 and Rs 1000/1100 with A/C.
Rock End Manor (52079) used to belong to a maharaja. There are luxury rooms with a great view for Rs 1600/1700. It has a good restaurant. It is by far the best place in town.
Mahfil Restaurant, near the bus stand, has good dosas and snacks.

Travel
There are buses to Bhopal (three daily), Pipariya (1½ hr), Indore, and Nagpur.

You can hire a shared jeep to Pipariya (Rs 50 per person, Rs 300 for the entire jeep).

Pipariya
Area Code: 07576

The nearest railway station to Pachmarhi is located here. It is on the Jabalpur-Mumbai railway line. A bus to Bhopal from here takes 6½ hours.
The MP Tourism’s Tourist Motel (22299) has rooms for Rs 175, and a restaurant.

Bilaspur
Pop: 285 ,000 Area Code: 07752

You may have to come here while traveling to Kanha National Park.
Natraj Hotel, (45451), near the bus stand, has rooms for Rs 250/300.
Hotel Centrepoint (24004), Anand Marg, has good rooms for Rs 350/400.
Hotel Chandrika has rooms for Rs 150/200 and Rs 500/600 with A/C.

There are trains to Jabalpur, Sambalpur, Puri, and Calcutta. The railway station is 3km from the center of town.

Bhoramdeo
Located here is an 11th century Siva temple that is covered with carvings. Many of the carving are erotic like in Khajuraho. There is still active worship in the temple. There are two other ancient temples in the area, Madan Manjari Mahal and Mandwa Mahal. Bhoramdeo is 120km east of Kisli (Kanha).

Kawardha
Located here, 21km south of Bhoramdeo, is the palace of the Maharaja of Kawardha, part of which is now a hotel. The palace was built in 1939.

Palace Kawardha (07741 32085; fax 32088), is a pleasant place to stay costing $108 per person, which includes meals and a jeep excursion. Meals are taken with the ex-maharaja. It is open from October to the end of April. You can write for reservations at Palace Kawardha, Kawardha, District Rajnandgaon, MP 491 995.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides