Shopping at Natural Nirvana

Khajuraho

Pop: 8,000 Area Code: 07686

There are many ancient temples here, built by the Chandela kings between 950-1050 AD. The Chandela were a dynasty that ruled this part of India for five centuries before finally being defeated by the Mughals. Only about twenty-five of the original eighty-five temples still exist. About ten percent of the elaborate carvings on the temples are erotic, which is one of the reasons for their fame. This is one of the most popular places in India with foreign tourists, even though it is in the middle of nowhere.

The temples are divided into three main groups: west, east, and south. The western group, especially the Laksman Temple and the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, is the most interesting.

The Khajuraho Dance Festival is held every year in Feb-March for ten days. Celebrated dancers from all over India come to pay tribute to the gods and goddesses enshrined in these temples.

Most people stay just one or two days. You can see all the temples in about five or six hours. It can be extremely hot during the summer, with temperatures rising to 42ºC (108ºC), and quite cold in the winter (4ºC, 39ºF).

Information
The village of Khajuraho is near the western group of temples and contains hotels, restaurants, and shops. The Government of India Tourist Office is located here. There are also tourist offices at the bus stand and airport. These offices can help you book hotels during the busy season. The old village of Khajuraho is about 1km east of the bus stand.

You can hire an official guide at the tourist office or at Raja’s Café (where they hang out). Guides charge Rs 200 for half a day and Rs 300 for a full day for up to four people. The guides speak various languages and charge Rs 100 extra for this service. MP Tourism offers a good walkman tour of the western temples for Rs 50.

There is a good Archaeological Survey of India book about the temple of Khajuraho written by Krishna Deva (Rs 5).

Shilpgram has a nightly cultural program starting at 7 pm (Rs 50). Kandariya Art & Culture does a similar type cultural program starting at 6.30 pm (Rs 150). The performances include folk dancing.

Money
You can change money at the State Bank of India (open until 6 pm on Friday and 4 pm on Saturday), the Canara Bank, and the Khajuraho Ashok.

Western Group
This is the main group of temples and should be seen first if your time is limited. These temples are some of the most interesting in India. There are free, guided tours at 9 am and 2.30 pm daily except Fri and holidays. Most of the temples are built on high platforms and have tall sikharas (towers). Under the tower is the garbha-griha, the altar for the main deity or linga. In front of the altar is the mandapa (hall), where the devotees worship. There is usually an ardha mandapa (a porch) between the doorway and the mandapa.

Laksman Temple (950) is the best preserved of the temples. It is built on a high platform, which has sculptures of elephants, horses, musician, women, and dancers on it. The doorway of the sanctum has a panel of incarnations of Lord Vishnu. There is also a panel of the nine planets and on the walls, carvings of Krishna. The pancha-ratha sanctum has a three-headed, four-armed form of Lord Vishnu surrounded by his ten incarnations and fourteen other forms of Vishnu. On the south wall of the temple is an excellent carving of Ganesh.

Varaha Temple (10th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his boar incarnation. Varaha saved the earth by rescuing it from the bottom of the Causal Ocean and by killing the demon, Hiranyaksha. There is a large sculpture of Varaha—2.6m (8½ ft)—on the altar, with hundreds of other figures carved on it. Varaha is on top of Sheshanaga. Next to the Varaha Temple is the small Lakshmi Temple.

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple (1025-1050) is dedicated to Lord Siva. It is the tallest temple, soaring to 31m (95 ft), and is also the most developed architecturally. The temple contains a marble Siva-linga in the inner sanctum. Beside the main sikhara (tower), there are eighty-four smaller, subsidiary towers, all replicas of the main tower. There are almost 900 sculptures on the temple platform.

Jagadambi Temple (early 11th century) has a standing Parvati deity in the sanctum, although the temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu. There are several beautiful carvings of Lord Vishnu on this temple.

Chitragupta Temple (early 11th century) is dedicated to Surya, the sun-god. Inside the inner chamber there is a 1½ m (5 ft) image of Surya riding a chariot drawn by seven horses. There is a carving of Vishnu with ten heads symbolizing all ten main incarnations.

Vishvanantha Temple (1002) is dedicated to Lord Siva. It has a Nandi Pavilion with a 2.2m (7 ft) high sandstone Nandi bull (Siva’s carrier).

Matangesvara Temple, next to the Laksman temple, outside the main enclosure, is dedicated to Lord Siva and contains a 2.5m high Siva-linga. There is active worship in this temple.

Chausat Yogini Temple (900) is dedicated to goddess Kali and is said to be the oldest of the temples. It is located outside the main group of temples, past the tank.

Jain Temples
There are three Jain temples within an enclosure wall about 1½ km southeast of the western group. The Parsvanath Temple (mid-10th century) is the largest. There are many beautiful Vaishnava deities carved on the walls. The temple was originally dedicated to Adinath, but the image of Parsvanath was placed in the sanctum in 1860.

There are two famous sculptures on this temple, one of a woman putting on eye makeup, and another of a woman taking a thorn out of her foot. There is a sculpture of Kama (Cupid) with his quiver of arrows and his consort, Rati.

Only the sanctum of the Adinath Temple (late 11th century) is original. The porch is modern. The Santinath Temple, with a 4.5m statue of Adinath, is the main place of worship. The temple has been renovated, but there is an inscription on one of the walls dated 1027.

Eastern Group
There are several temples one km east of the western group, just north of the Jain temples. There are detailed carvings on the ruined Ghantai Temple (late 10th century). The Javari Temple (late 10th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The Vamana Temple (late 11th century), 200m north of the Javari Temple, is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his dwarf incarnation. The Brahma Temple (early 10th century) has a sandstone sikhara on a granite structure.

Southern Group
The Chaturbhuja Temple (around 1100), 2km southeast of the village, has an excellent sanctum containing a 2.7m four-armed Dakshina-murti image of Lord Siva.

The Duladeo Temple (early 12th century), 5km southeast of the village, was the last Chandela temple built in Khajuraho. It has an outstanding deity 2.7m (9 ft) tall of Lord Vishnu in its inner sanctum.

Archaeological Museum
This interesting museum has a good collection of deities and sculptures from the area. There is a Vaishnava Gallery that includes a beautiful Bhu Varaha sculpture. Open 9 am to 5 pm. It takes about twenty minutes to see everything.

The museum gives visitors an opportunity to see the temple sculptures at eye level. The original temple artists made adjustments to the figures to compensate for the angle and distance from which the viewer would see the sculptures on the temples themselves. Therefore the sculptures may look slightly out of proportion as they are seen in the museum.

Where to Stay—Lower
Yogi Lodge (44158) is a good-valued, clean, budget place built around a courtyard. Rooms are Rs 90/130 and Rs 150 with air-cooling. During the slow hot season, this place may be the only budget hotel with any people in it. Recommended.
Yadav Lodge is a good place with rooms for Rs 100/130.
Hotel Plaza (44373), Jain Temple Rd, near the Hanuman temple, has rooms with bath for Rs 100.
Jain Lodge (42352) is a good place with a vegetarian restaurant. It has a selection of rooms that start at Rs 100/125 (Rs 200 with air-cooling). Popular with travelers.
Hotel Harmony (44135) is a nice place with large clean rooms for Rs 200/225. The rooms facing the garden are best. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
Next door, the Hotel Surya (2145) is a good, clean place with a small garden. Rooms with bath are Rs 175/225, Rs 250 with an air-cooler, and Rs 400 with A/C. It is a good value.
Hotel Lakeside (44120) has good clean rooms for Rs 200/250, rooms with bath for Rs 300/500, and dorm beds for Rs 50. The rooms are located around the courtyard.
Tourist Village (44128) is well located in a quiet place. It has rooms with bath for Rs 250 (Rs 50 extra with air-cooling).
Rakshan Guest House, a little east of the village has big, clean rooms for Rs 200/250. Friendly.
Sunset View (44077) is a good, clean place with a garden. It is in a good location near the lake. It has a wide selection of rooms ranging from Rs 125 to Rs 300. It is a decent value.
Hotel Casa Di William (44244), Prem Sagar Lake Rd, has clean rooms with hot water and air-cooling for Rs 350/450. It has a good view of the Western temples.

Where to Stay—Middle
MP Tourism’s Hotel Jhankar (44063) has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 400/500 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. It is the best of the government run places.
The popular MP Tourist Bungalow has a good location. Rooms with bath are Rs 400/450.
Hotel Payal (44064) is a nice, clean place with good-sized, well-maintained rooms for Rs 425/475 and Rs 625/750 with A/C. It has a garden and is in a quiet location. For the price, it is recommended.
Hotel Marble Palace (44353) has comfortable rooms with a bathtub and hot water for Rs 600/700 with air-cooling and Rs 800/900 with A/C. Recommended.

Where to Stay—High
Taj Chandela (2054, fax 2095) is the best hotel in town. The rooms are $60/80. It has a pool, health club, tennis court, massages (Rs 150), chandeliers, and bathtubs in the attached bathrooms. It has a good bookshop, a pleasant garden, and two good restaurants. Non-guests can use the pool for Rs 150.
Hotel Jass Oberoi (42344; fax 42345) is a deluxe place with a pool, tennis court, a garden, and first-class service. Rooms are $50/85. Non-guests can use the pool for Rs 150. They have nightly entertainment (open to non-guests). There are folk dances from September to April, and sitar and tabla music. Recommended.
ITDC Khajuraho Ashok (44024; fax 44361) is a luxury place with a nice pool (Rs 100 for non-guest). Some rooms have a view of the temples. Rooms go for Rs 1650/2200. Not a good value.
Holiday Inn (42301; fax 42304) is a new, well-managed place with comfortable rooms for $45/80, a bookshop, and a pool (Rs 100 for non-guest). It is a good place.
Hotel Clarks Bundela (42386; fax 42385) is a first-class place with rooms for $55/95. It has a large pool. It is a good value and offers discounts during the off-season.

Where to Eat
Jain Lodge has a good vegetarian restaurant. Closed April to June. Hotel Harmony has a vegetarian restaurant.
New Bharat, downstairs from the Raya Hotel, has good vegetarian food.
Jata Shankar, by the Western temple group, has decent, inexpensive thalis for Rs 20.
Mediterraneo Restaurant, Jain Temple Rd, has good Italian food, including pizza and pasta. Part Italian owned.
Temple View, next to the tourist office, is a friendly place with good food.
Raja’s Café, just across from the temple, is managed by two Swiss women (they speak with British accents) whose family has been in India since Independence. It is a popular place with a good view of the temples from the rooftop terrace. The sisters are friendly, helpful, informative, and interesting. They serve Western and Indian food. The government tour guides work from here.
Jass Oberoi (2085) is a high-class place with very good Indian, Chinese, and Continental food.
The best hotels all have good restaurants. Expect to pay at least Rs 200 per person.

Local Travel
Bicycle rickshaws are expensive because many tourists pay Rs 30 for a ride that should cost Rs 5. A taxi can be hired at MP Tourism, Khajuraho Tours, or Tour-Aids, near the Clark Hotel.
The eastern and southern temples are a good walk from the hotel area. To hire a bicycle rickshaw for half a day should cost about Rs 100 (Rs 50 or less during the off-season). A good way to get around is by bike (Rs 30 per day).

Travel
Air There are daily flights to Delhi (1½ hr, $90) via Agra. There is a daily flight to Varanasi ($70) continuing on to Kathmandu. There are daily flights to Mumbai and Calcutta. Flying is the best way to get to Khajuraho; as there is no nearby railway station.

The Indian Airlines office (44035) is next to the Hotel Clarks Bundela on Airport Rd. You can also book flights at the airport.

A taxi to the airport (5km south) costs about Rs 80. There is an airport bus. An auto-rickshaw costs about Rs 40.

Rail  The closest stations are Jhansi (176km), if you are taking a train from Agra or Delhi; Satna (117km), if you are coming from Allahabad, Varanasi, Calcutta, or Mumbai; and Mahoba (51km), if you are coming from Varanasi. If you are going to Varanasi, it is usually better to take a train from Satna, because from Mahoba there are only a few slow trains daily with a small quota.
From Delhi, the Shatabdi Express is the best train to Jhansi. It departs Delhi at 6.15 am, arrives in Agra at 8.10 am, and arrives in Jhansi at 10.40 am. The Shatabdi Express departs Jhansi at 6 pm to Delhi (4½ hr). During the day there are also other, much slower trains between Jhansi and Delhi.

There is no direct train connection to Varanasi. The closest train stations to Khajuraho are Satna (117km east) or Mahoba (51km). From Satna, travelers can take an express bus (4 hr) or taxi to Khajuraho. From Satna, there are trains to Mumbai, Gorakh­pur, Calcutta, and Varanasi. To get to Khajuraho from Jaipur, you change trains at Agra and take another train to Jhansi.

Bus  There is a direct bus from Agra (12 hr) and about six buses daily from Jhansi (6 hr). A luxury A/C bus to Jhansi departs from Khajuraho at noon to meet the Shatabdi Express going to Agra and Delhi (Rs 200). There are other less expensive and slower buses to Jhansi during the day. There are only uncomfortable local buses for the 10-12 hr trip to Varanasi or Allahabad. There is a 7 am bus to Jabalpur (11 hr). The best way to get to Jabalpur is to go to Satna and get a train for there.

During the off-season, buses to Jhansi are often canceled or delayed (late by two hours or more). You can take an auto-rickshaw to the main road and catch a bus from there.

Taxi A taxi from Jhansi to Khajuraho costs about Rs 1500 and takes about four hours. A taxi to Varanasi (9 hr) costs about Rs 5000.

Near Khajuraho

Panna National Park
This park, 32km from Khajuraho on the road to Satna, is home to tigers (rarely seen), nilgais (blue bulls), and deer. There are also waterfalls in the area. The Pandava Falls Lake, 10km east of Madla, is a peaceful place to visit. It is possible to see wildlife near the lake. It is best to visit the park during fall and winter because the summer months are extremely hot. On the way to the Park from Khajuraho, you pass the Rajgarh Palace, which has a good view from its walls. It is now being converted into a luxury hotel.

Giles’ Tree House, near the village of Madla, 25km southeast of Khajuraho, is managed by a member of the same family that manages Raja’s Café in Khajuraho. It is located in peaceful location next to a river. There are a few rooms here for Rs 300 to Rs 700. It is usually used by overlanders who camp out. It is a pleasant place.
Ken River Lodge, 27km from Khajuraho, has comfortable, modern cottages and spacious tents with bath and hot water. They can arrange a safari to the park. Book it with Ken River Lodge, c/o Pro Host (011 689-3027; fax 689-3027), 456 Vasant Kunj, New Delhi 110070.

You have to visit the park with your own vehicle, as there is no public transportation. From Khajuraho a taxi is around Rs 1,000 for the day.
Ajaigarh and Kalinjar Forts

Located in Ajaigarh, 80km from Khajuraho, is this hilltop fort. The Kalinjar Fort was built during the Gupta period.

Dhubela
There is a small museum in the fort in Dhubela, 65km from Khajuraho, containing sculptures, weapons, and items belonging to the Bundela kings.

Vegetarian Fast Food Options

World Vegetarian Restaurants Guide

Amazing Colon Cleaning Program

Our own Vegetarian, Vegan, Alternative & Spiritual Sales Shop

Please Help Support This Site and buy our own USA Vegetarian Restaurants Book

Please check out our Natural Nirvana Store, which we started to help pay for the maintenance of this Website. Natural Nirvana is dedicated to selling vegetarian, spiritual and alternative products. We sell only animal-friendly and cruelty-free clothing, gifts, health foods, books and beauty products.

!! DVD Kurma Great Vegetarian Dsihes Cooking Videos Set for just $49. Individually each video costs $14.95.for a savings of over $100

24 Devotional DVD Set for just $99 Individually each video cost $14.95 for a savings of over $200

Fantastic Natural Herbs from the Amazons
(Best source of natural herbs in the world)

Infomation on Partnering with John Easterling &Amazon Herb formulas
Make a steady Income distruibuting natural herb products

Amazon Herbs Articles

Good News from the Amazon An interview with John Easterling

Interview with Sherrill Sellman

Journey to Porveneer
by Kosa Ely

How the Amazon Rainforest
Can Improve Our Relationships
By “Amazon John” Easterling

Returning to our Roots The Evolution of Environmental Consciousness
by Kosa Ely

CamuC Serum
Nature’s Ultimate Recipe for Glowing, Youthful Looking Skin

VEGAN BAGS
Hemp Bags
Vegetarian & Animal Rights Message Bag
Hemp Backpacks
Indian Quilted & Embroidered Bags
Ecolution Bags
Splaff Bags

CLOTHES
Vegetarian T-Shirts
Animal Rights T-Shirts
Vedic Gods T-Shirts
Hemp Gloves
Vegan Message Hats
Animal Rights Beanies
Hemp Hats
Vegetarian Message Hats
Indian Men Clothing
Indian Women Clothing
Scarves
Indian design Stoles
Indian Sarongs
Sacred Threads Tops
S. T. Dresses
S. T. Pants
Sacred Threads Children Clothing

Bedding & Pillows (beautiful)
Indian Bedspreads
Indian Design Quilts
Indian Design Pillows

FOOD
Raw Foods
Vegan Foods

AYURVEDIC MEDICINES
Ayurvedic Medicines
Neem Products
Ayurvedic Books
Herbal Vedic
NeemAura
AyurvedicSupplements
Ayurvedic Incense
Organic South Neem
Ayurvedic Soaps
Ayurveda Toothpaste
Ayurveda Massage Oil

VEGAN HEALTH
Vegan Vitamins
Vegan Herbal Remedies
Massage Oils
Sport Supplements
Vegan Protein
First Aid Products
Cold Medicines
Olbas
Well-In-Hand
Skin & Blemish
Herbal Salves & Balms

VEGAN BODY CARE
Vegan Soaps
Vegan Shampoos
Vegan Hair Spays
Vegan Toothpaste
Tongue Cleaners
Neti Pots
Vegan Perfumes
Vegan Sun Care
Lip Balm
Contact Len Cleaner
Skin Treatments
Men's Products
Dental Floss
Natural Mouthwashes
Vegan Hair Removal System

INCENSE & OILS
Incenses
Essential Oil
Vegan Candles

VEGAN BELTS & WALLETS
Vegan Wallets
Hemp Belts
Vegan Belts
Hemp Guitar Straps

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN BOOKS
Vegan Books
Vegetarian Books
Vegan Cookbooks
Vegetarian Cookbooks
Restaurant Cookbooks
Raw Food Book

VEG COSMETIC
Eyeshadows & Liners
Nail Polish
Blush
Lip Stick
Mascara
Powders
Nail Polish

VEDIC & SPIRITUAL
Mandala Publishers
OM Jewelry
Krishna Photos
Radha & Krishna Dolls

JEWELRY
Anklets
OM Jewelry
Nose Rings & Studs
Toe Rings
Astrological Gems
Earrings
Pendants
Silver Tulasi Beads
Neckbeads
Necklaces
Silver Jewelry
Gold Jewelry

BUTTONS STICKER
Animal Rights Buttons
Vegan Patch
Jam Bands Stickers
Jam Band Stickers (20 stickers for $5)

SPIRITUAL BOOKS
All Books
Holy Places
Vedic Scriptures
Mandala Publishing
Art Books
Kurma Cook Books
Bhagavat Gita
Caitanya Mahaprabhu
Children
Srimad Bhagvatam
Spiritual Biography
Vedic Coloring Books

SPIRITUAL MUCIC
Bhajans
S. Prabhupada Bhajans
Kirtana
New Age
Musical Instruments
Spiritual Lessons
Audio Vedic Books

VEGETARIAN VIDEO
Vegetarian Cooking
Vegetarian

SPIRTUAL VIDEO
Devotional Movies
Interactive CDs
Vedic Puppet Shows
Vedic Art & Culture
Indian Music Lessons
Bhativedanta Swami Prabhupada

Spiritual Photos & Art
Krishna Posters
Krishna Pictures
Vedic Gods Photos
Vedic Gods Posters

OTHER PRODUCTS
Putumayo World Music
Pet Products
Outdoor Neem
Air Garcia T-shirt

Bob Marley Reggae
Hats
Shirts
Key Chains
License Plates
Scarves
Books