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Jhansi

Pop: 460,000 Area Code: 0517

The main reason most travelers come to Jhansi is because it is the closest train junction on the Delhi-Mumbai line to Khajuraho. It is 5½ hours by bus to Khajuraho from Jhansi. Jhansi is actually located in Uttar Pradesh, but because it is close to Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, we have included it in the Madhya Pradesh chapter.

When the Raja of Jhansi died without a male heir in 1853 , the British used the Principle of Lapse rule and took over the kingdom from his widow, the Rani (queen) of Jhansi and pensioned the Rani off. When the Upraising began in 1857, the Rani and her followers revolted against the British. After the British gained control again, they gave Jhansi to Maharaja Scindia in exchange for Gwalior in 1861. Twenty-five years later they took back Jhansi.

Information
There is an Uttar Pradesh Tourist Office at the Hotel Veerangana. There are Madhya Pradesh (442-622) and Uttar Pradesh tourist counters at the railway station.

The State Bank of India changes money (usually only American Express travelers cheques). Jhansi Hotel and Hotel Sita change money.

Tour-aids (443-490), Jai Complex, Civil Lines, hires out cars to Khajuraho, Orchha and other places.

Places to See
Maharaja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha built the Jhansi Fort in 1613. The fort is not large and there is not much to see. Open July to April 15 daily except Mon 10.30 am to 4.30 pm. April 16 to June, daily except Mon 7.30 am to 12.30 pm.
There are Dioramas just below the fort portraying the battle in which the Rani of Jhansi died.

Near the fort is the Rani Mahal, the Rani of Jhansi’s palace. It is now a museum with 9th to 12th centuries sculptures (daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm).

Where to Stay
There are Retiring Rooms in the railway station for Rs 150 and Rs 300 with A/C. Dorm beds Rs 40.
Hotel Pujan, Gwalior Rd, is an inexpensive place and is a good value.
Central Hotel (440-509) has rooms with common bath and no windows for Rs 100/125 and with bath and air-cooling for Rs 175/225. The upstairs rooms are better.
Hotel Prakash (330-133; fax 331-911), Sardarila Lal Market, has good, clean rooms with hot water and a TV for Rs 250/300 and with AC and a TV for Rs 450/550. It is a little run-down. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Samrat (444-943), Chitra Chauraha, near the railway station, is a new place with clean, air-cooled rooms with bath for Rs 175/225 and with TV for Rs 250/300. 24-hour checkout. Recommended.
UP Tourism’s Hotel Veerangana (442-402), 1km from the railway station, has rooms for Rs 250/300 and Rs 350/400 with A/C. Dorm beds are Rs 60. It is not well-maintained.
Jhansi Hotel (470-360; fax 470-470) is one of the best places in town. It was a hotel during the British Raja and it has a large garden and verandahs. Rooms are Rs 550/650 and Rs 650/750 with A/C.
Close by is the Hotel Raj Palace (470-554), with air-cooled, clean, modern rooms for Rs 300/400 and A/C rooms for Rs 450/500.
Hotel Sita (442-956; fax 440-259), Shivpuri Rd, near the station, is a modern hotel with comfortable, clean rooms. It is a well-maintained, recommended, mid-range place. Rooms cost Rs 550/625 with air-cooling and Rs 700/800 with A/C.
There are no high-range hotels in Jhansi.

Where to Eat
The restaurant at the Prakash Hotel is good.
Nav Bharat is good.
Holiday Restaurant, near the Jhansi Hotel, is one of the best places in town.
Jhansi Hotel, Samrat Hotel and Hotel Sita all have good restaurants.

Travel
Train  Jhansi is on the main Delhi-Agra-Mumbai line. Shatabdi Exp #2002 is the quickest train from Delhi (4½ hr, 6.15 am). From Jhansi, the Shatabdi Exp departs to Bhopal at 10.47 am and returns to Delhi at 5.58 pm via Agra (2½ hr). If arriving from Khajuraho in the afternoon on your way to Agra, Mathura, or Delhi, I advise (unless you can get a confirmed seat) that you take the Shatabdi Exp (5.58 pm) despite the expense. The other trains are not reliable and leave at inconvenient times.

There are trains to Delhi (five daily, 4½ to 8 hr), Mumbai (21½ hr), Agra (2½ to 3½ hr), Indore (10 hr), Bhopal (4 hr), and Gwalior (1½ hr). Other trains go to Varanasi, Bangalore, Chennai, and Lucknow. Jalgaon (for Ajanta Caves) Mahakosal Exp #1450 (11.45, 11 hr); Lucknow Gwalior-Barauni Mail #5224 (11.15 am, 9 hr), Kushi Nagar Exp #1015 (8.15 pm, 7½ hr) ; Mumbai Kushi Nagar Exp #1016 (7.15 am, 22 hr) and Punjab Mail #2138 (12.15 pm, 21½ hr); Varanasi Bundelkhand Exp #1107 (7.20 pm, 14 hr) .

Auto-rickshaws cost about Rs 25 from the railway station to the bus station. You can also take one of the regular tempos for Rs 4.

Bus  There are express buses to Khajuraho (5½ hr) departing from the railway station at 6, 7, and 11 am Slower state buses depart to Khajuraho from the bus stand on Kanpur Rd, 4km east of the railway station, in the morning and at 1.15 pm.
There are buses to Gwalior, Shivpuri, Lalitpur, and Orchha (30 min, every half-hour).

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