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Jabalpura

Pop: 1 million Area Code: 0761

Jabalpur, 330km east of Bhopal, is the largest city in eastern Madhya Pradesh. It is well-known for the Marble Rocks on the bank of the Narmada River. Japalpur is a stop-off point on the way to Kanha (160km) and Bandhavgarh National Parks (200km).

Tourist Office and Tours
The MPTDC Tourist Office (322-111), in the railway station, can arrange reservations at MPTDC hotels at Kanha and Bandhavgarh Parks. During the season, accommodations in the parks should be booked at least three days in advance at any MPTDC Tourist Office. The office also book tours to the Marble Rocks (Rs 50, 4 pm), which depart only if there is a minimum of six people. Open daily 9 am to 6 pm.

Information
You can change money at the State Bank of India (322-259), upstairs, opposite the Hotel Rishi Regency, near the railway underpass (Mon to Fri, 10.30 am to 2.30 pm). Jackson’s Hotel and Samdariya change money only for guests.

The GPO is 1km south of the railway station on Residency Rd.

Travel agencies: Chadha Travels (322-178; fax 322-066), Jackson’s Hotel, can arrange trips to Kanha National Park.

What to See
The Rani Durgavati Museum in the bazaar has a poorly maintained collection of Hindu and Jain sculptures.

On the way to the Marble Rocks you pass the Madam Mahal (1116), a Gond Fort and Palace, now in ruins.

Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the less expensive hotels are located by the bus stand.
Hotel Mayur (310-035) has rooms with bath for Rs 125/150.
Hotel Sharda (315-375) has rooms for Rs 80/110 with common bath and Rs 120/140 with bath.
Hotel Rahul (325-525) has poorly maintained but acceptable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 150/175 and with A/C for Rs 350/400. The less expensive rooms do not have windows.
Sivalaya Lodge (325-188), opposite Jyoti Cinema, Naudra Bridge, not far from the bus stand, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 175/225. It is a good value.

What to Stay—Middle to High
Hotel Roopali (325-566) has rooms with air-cooling and TV for Rs 400/450 and Rs 600/700 with A/C.
Hotel Bluemoon (325-146) has an air-cooled room for Rs 200/250 and with A/C for Rs 500/600.
Utsav (26038), Russel Chowk, is a well-run, modern hotel with rooms with TV and bath with hot water for Rs 300/400 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. The cheaper rooms are a very good value.
Jackson’s Hotel (322-320; fax 322-066) has rooms for Rs 450/500 and Rs 700/800 with A/C and a TV. It is an older place that has seen better days, but is still nice. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the garden. You can change money here and it has a good restaurant.
Hotel Samdariya (316-800; fax 316-354) has modern rooms for Rs 600/750 and with A/C for Rs 1100/1400. It has a very good vegetarian restaurant.
The three-star Hotel Rishi Regency (321-804; fax: same) has rooms for Rs 600/800 and with A/C for Rs 900/1100.
The MP Tourism Hotel Kalchuri (321-491), near the railway station, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 550/650 and with A/C for Rs 750/850. It is well-maintained and is a good value.
Hotel Krishna (315-153; fax 311-841), near the museum, has rooms with a TV for Rs 500/700 and Rs 900/1100 with A/C. It has a pool and a restaurant.

Where to Eat
Utsav, Russel Chowk, has good vegetarian food at a reasonable price.
Indian Coffee House, in the bazaar area, sells inexpensive South Indian and other food.
Satyam Shivam Sundaram, next to Jyoti Cinema, has good, inexpensive individual and thali meals. A good value.
Grub Room, Jackson’s Hotel, is a good place serving Indian, Chinese, and Continental cuisine.
Woodlands Restaurant in the Hotel Samdariya is an excellent, higher-class vegetarian place with great South Indian and Chinese food. Recommended.

Local Travel
When you arrive in Jabalpur, the rickshaw drivers will offer to bring you anywhere for Rs 5, because they will try to get you to go to the hotel of their choice and get a commission.
You can rent a bike at places near the railway station.

Travel
Trains Jabalpur is on the main Mumbai-Calcutta railway line. The railway station is 2km east of the downtown (5-min auto-rickshaw ride). There are trains to Satna (3 hr), Bhopal (7½ hr), Patna, Delhi, Calcutta, Chennai, and Varanasi (14 hr). There are about five trains a day to Mumbai (Howrah-Mumbai Mail #3003, 5.30 pm, 15 hr).
To get to Khajuraho, you can take a morning train to Satna (3 hr) and then a bus (4 hr) from there. This is more pleasant than taking a bus all the way to Khajuraho.

To get to Bandhavgarh, you first take a train to Umaria (five daily, 1 hr), and from there a bus.

Bus The MPSRTC buses depart at 7 and 11 am to Kanha National Park (Kisli—6 hr, Rs 45). You can also take a bus to Mandla (every half-hour), about halfway to the park, and then take another bus from there. There is a daily bus to Mukki (6 hr). To get to Bandhavgarh, you could first take a train or bus to Umaria (every hour, 2 hr) and then another bus from there.
There is a direct bus to Khajuraho (12 hr, 9 am).

Around Jabalpur

Marble Rocks
West of Jabalpur, near the village of Bheraghat, the Narmada River flows over a series of waterfalls and then passes through an area of beautiful, 30m high white marble cliffs. This impressive gorge is located 22km from Jabalpur. The gorge is floodlit at night. On weekends and full moon nights, the area is crowded.
From October to June you can take a shared boat for Rs 10 a person, which is the best way to see the rocks. The boatman will point out the interesting formations.

Nearby is the Dhaundhar Waterfall, which is especially worth seeing at the end of monsoon.
Practicalities

MP Tourism’s Motel Marble Rocks (0761 83424) is a colonial house with comfortable rooms with bath for Rs 500. It overlooks the rocks and has a good restaurant. It should be booked in advance.

Hotel Rahul Tourist Home (0761 83450), near the Jain temple on the main road, has basic rooms.

Tempos from the city tempo stand near the museum in Jabalpur come here (45 minutes). You can also ride a bike.

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