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Bandhavgarh National Park

Bandhavgarh National Park, 197km northeast of Jabalpur and 280km from Khajuraho, is home to about fifty tigers. You have one of the best chances in India to see a tiger in this park. Other wildlife include elephants, wild boars, jackals, chinkaras, sloth bears, nilgais, sambars, porcupines, gaurs, and about 150 species of birds. It is difficult to get here, but most people find it worth the trip.

The park is named after the local fort. There is a temple within the fort walls, and below it are rock-cut caves. You must obtain permission to visit the fort from the park office. It is said that the monkey warriors built Rama a fort on top of the hill here, so Rama could rest on his way back to Ayodhya from Lanka. A four-wheel drive jeep is needed if you wish to visit the fort.

Park Information
The park is open in the mornings and late afternoons, November 1 to June 30. The park office is in the village of Tala, near the park’s north gate.

The closest town is Umaria, 32km northwest. You can rent a jeep at the park office or through a hotel for about Rs 650. Jeeps enter the park from dawn to 10 am and from 4 pm until dusk.
Elephant safaris are booked at the park office near the gate on Umaria Road and cost Rs 250 per hour for up to four people. There are also watchtowers in the park. The one in Bhadrasila is good for viewing gaur.

The park has a total of 437 sq km and a core area of only 105 sq km. The park consists of rugged hilly forest and a few flat grassy areas. The jeep safaris mainly go to the core area where the tigers usually stay. A tiger may be seen and seeing deer is almost certain.

The best time to view the wildlife is between March and June when it is hot (43ºC, 110ºF) and the tigers and other animals are forced out to look for water. Although it is a better time to see the wildlife, it is an austere time to be here. The electricity is often out, which means fans and A/C do not work.

Bhaghela Museum
Located at Bandhavgarh Safari Camp, this museum contains items from the maharaja of Rewa. Located here is the stuffed body of Mohun, who was the first white tiger found in Bandhavgarh in 1951. The white tigers that you see in zoos around the world are his descendants. There are weapons and a swing made of silver and cut glass. Open daily 10 am to 3 pm and 6 to 8 pm.

Where to Stay and Eat
Accommodations for the park are located in Tala, the village directly outside the park’s gate. The phone code for Tala is 07653.
Nature Resort has rooms for Rs 400 and dorm beds in a tent for Rs 100.
Kum Kum Home (65324) has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 250.
Tiger Lodge, next to the bus stop, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 200.
Baghela, Umaria Rd, has rooms for Rs 350.
MP Tourism’s White Tiger Forest Lodge (65308), Umaria Rd, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 650/700 and Rs 900/1000 with A/C. Rooms 17 to 21 overlooks the river where elephants often bathe. It has a good restaurant. This place should be booked in advance at a Madhya Pradesh tourist office.
V Patel Jungle Resorts ( 65323) has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 800. It has a garden. It can be booked in Jabalpur at 212 Abhaykunj, Narmada Rd (0761 26162).
Bandhavgarh Jungle Camp (65317), near the river, used to be the palace of the Maharaja of Rewa. There are two-room luxury tents in the garden for $135 per person. The price includes meals and trips to the park. There is a slide show before dinner.
Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, near the river, has comfortable traditional huts decorated with tribal paintings. There is a nice garden. Book with Tiger Resorts, 206 Rakesh Deep, 11 Commercial Complex, New Delhi 110 049 (011 685-3760; fax 686-5212).
Nature Heritage is a new place with comfortable rooms. Khajuraho Tours in Khajuraho can book this hotel.

Travel
The closest railway station is in Umaria (34km), which is on the Katni to Bilapur railway line. From Umaria you get a bus to the village of Tala (1 hr), near the entrance of the park. From Jabalpur, you first get a train to Katni, and then another train to Umaria.

From Varanasi or Khajuraho, you first go to Satna. From Satna you take a bus to Rewa and from there you get a bus to Tala, to get to the park. You can also get a train to Katni from Satna.

From Delhi, you can get the Utkal Exp #8478 to Katni. The Utkal Exp also departs from Bhubaneswar and Puri to Katni.

There is a morning bus from Satna to here. It is 5 hours from Khajuraho by car to Tala.

Amarkantak
Amarkantak is the source of the Narmada River. Some of the temples here date back to the 11th century. Amarkantak is located in eastern Madhya Pradesh. There is a temple and dharamshalas here.

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