Shopping at Natural Nirvana

Leh

Pop: 16,000 Area Code: 01982 Elevation: 3500m (11550 ft)

Leh, located in a valley, is a peaceful, atmospheric place. It is a pleasant, friendly town. The nine-storey Leh Palace is the main building in town. Above the palace is the Victory Fort on top of Namgyal Hill. The old town consists of a series of small winding streets. There are several interesting sites and gompas in the area. The best time to visit Leh is from May to September. In the winter, temperatures drop to –30ºC and in the summer, temperatures are between 11ºC and 26ºC.      

Orientation
Leh Palace is situated on the hill, north of town. Most of the hotels and restaurants are south of the palace. Main Bazaar Road is the main street, and along it are many shops and restaurants. The main bazaar runs south to north through the middle of the town. Fort Road, the second main street, runs west off the bazaar and then turns south. In the village of Changspa, 2km west of town, there are many guesthouses popular with long-term visitors.

Information
The Tourist Office (52297) is on the road to the airport about 3km south of the center of town, There is a Tourist Counter next to the Tourist Bungalow on Fort Rd (daily except Sun 10 am and 5 pm). They have a notice board which can be useful to find trekking partners. They also rent equipment.

A video about the area is shown at the arrival area at the airport.

You can change money at the Forex counter next to the Tourist Bungalow (Mon to Fri 10.30 to 1.30 pm, Sat 10.30 am to noon). It may be possible to change money at the State Bank of India.

The Khangla Chan Hotel and Singye Palace Hotel, on Airport Rd, change money.

The GPO is located 3km south of the center of town. There is a post office at the intersection of Main Bazaar and Fort roads.

Ladags Melong is a magazine that has information about Ladakh’s culture and history.

Film is often sold past the expiry date in Leh, so it is a good idea to check for this.

The Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre, on the way to Shanti Stupa, has meditation meetings daily except Sun in the summer at 5.30 pm. They also offer five to ten day study courses.
Altitude sickness is common in Leh. For medical advice call 52014 between 10 am and 4 pm and from 4 pm to 10 pm call 52360. If you have a serious problem go to Sonam Narbu Memorial Hospital (SNM) (52014), 3km south of Leh. You can also contact a doctor through a higher-class hotel.

Dr Tsewang Larje, who has an office near the Old bus stand, prescribes Tibetan medicine.
Snow White Dry Cleaners, opposite the

Dreamland Restaurant, is a good laundry service. DZOMSA, run by a women’s group, is a laundry service that washes the clothes in the desert so as not to pollute the local water supply.

Gypsy's World, on Fort Rd, has Internet facilities (daily 9 am to 9 pm).

Permits
No permits are required to visit Leh. To visit certain areas in Ladakh a permit is required. Permits are issued at the District Magistrate’s Office (52210) near the polo grounds. 

Health Warning Because of Leh’s high elevation, it is not uncommon for visitors to experience altitude sickness. It is best, therefore, to keep activities to a minimum for the first couple of days. Altitude sickness takes a day or two to develop.

Symptoms are headaches, difficulty breathing, and stomach aches. You should drink plenty of non-alcoholic fluids.

The water in Leh is notoriously bad. Therefore, it is highly advised to drink either bottled water, to treat the water, or to drink boiled water.

Meat is also highly suspect because much of the meat is transported in unrefrigerated trucks into Leh. There are absolutely no health regulations in relation to meat and its transport in India. Bad meat is a major cause of disease in India. It is best to avoid meat-eating in Ladakh.

Travel Agencies
Rimo Expeditions, near the Hotel Khang-la Chhen, is an established general travel agency that arranges treks and white-water rafting. Druk Travels, in the Hotel Ibex on Fort Rd; Ibex Tours and Travels (52661); and Snow Leopard (52074; fax 52355) are established at trekking and white-water rafting.

Gypsy's World Treks and Tours, on Fort Rd, is a well-managed place.

Adventure North (52339) in the Hotel Dragon, and Ladakh Adventure Travels (52458) in the Hotel Ibex, are established travel agencies.
Indus Himalayan Explorers (52735), across from the taxi stand on Fort Rd, arranges white-water rafting. Highland Adventures in the Hotel Ibex and Ri-Mo Rafting in the Hotel Kkang-la Chhen, are both established agencies that do white-water rafting.

Often trekking equipment can be a poor quality or be in a poor condition. It is best to check the equipment closely before renting it. Places that rent equipment are Royal Express, near the Hotel Ibex; Traveller Shop (52248) on Fort Rd, near the Indian Airlines office; and Snow Leopard, across from the taxi stand; and the Yak Hotel.

White-water Rafting
Some travel agencies arrange white-water rafting on the Indus and Zanskar rivers. These rivers are tame compared to rafting in Nepal, but still a trip on them is a pleasant experience. The season is from July to mid-September. From Hemis to Choglamsar is a calm ride. From Nimmu to Khalsi is a better trip. Longer raft trips can be arranged.
 Two routes are normally taken—from Nimmu to Alchi (2½ hr, Rs 1400) and from Spituk to the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar at Nimmu (3 hr, Rs 1000). You should check that you have proper equipment before setting out.

Bookshops and Libraries
Lost Horizon Books and Artou Bookshops, in the main bazaar, are good bookshops with books about Ladakh and Tibet. Bookworm, near the Hotel Ga-Idan Continental on Old Fort Rd, has a good selection of used books in different languages. Tibetan Handicraft Emporium, on Main Bazaar Rd, has books about Tibet. You can get English Indian newspapers at Prakash Booksellers, next to the German Bakery. 
Leh Library, next to the Hotel Bijou, has books about Ladakh and English newspapers. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 4 pm. Tibetan Library in Choglamsar has books about Tibet.

Leh Palace
Built in the medieval Tibetan architectural style, this nine-storey palace resembles a smaller version of the Potala in Lhasa, Tibet. It was built in the 16th century and is no longer used. It is very run-down. You should bring a flashlight and be careful where you walk. To get into the maintained Dukhar Temple prayer room on the fourth floor, you may have to find a monk. In the temple there is a thousand-armed deity of the goddess Tara, musical instruments, and masks. There are very good views from the terraces of the palace. Open daily 7 to 9 am and sometimes 3 to 5 pm.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa
This gompa has a two-storey statue of Buddha, nice paintings, and ancient manuscripts. This gompa, located in the north part of the city, was built in 1430. The first building is the Maitreya Temple, which contains a large statue of Buddha. The Gon-khang (protector deities temple) further up the hill has good paintings. Open 7 to 9 am. You can walk or come up to here by car.
Above the gompa is another ruined gompa, from which there are great views. The climb up to this gompa is difficult.

Sankar Gompa
This interesting 17th century gompa, 3km north of the center of town, belongs to the Gelukpa (“Yellow Hat”) order. There is a library and an interesting Avalokiteswara (Buddhist deity of Compassion) with eleven heads and a thousand arms. There are interesting paintings in the Du-khang (main prayer hall), and good views from the roof. This is the residence of Kushok Bakul, Ladakh’s head of the Gelukpa order. Open daily 7 to 10 am and from 5 to 7 pm. Prayers at 6 pm.
It is a nice walk to this place. You get here by turning left at the junction past Ali Shah’s Postcard Shop, then make a right at the concrete path running along the stream. It is about a thirty-minute walk.

Shanti Stupa
The Dalai Lama opened this impressive stupa in 1985. It is known as the “Japan Stupa” because Japanese Buddhists built it. There are some very good views from where the stupa is located and it is a hard climb to the top. The stupa has gilded panels depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life. The stupa is located about 3km west of Fort Rd, on the road going to Changspa, and costs Rs 150 round trip by taxi.

There are five guest rooms at the stupa, but there is nowhere local to eat.

Ladakh Ecological Development Group
This place (LEDeG) promotes ecological issues, organic farming, solar energy, cottage industries, and publishes books. They show an interesting video, Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh, daily except Sunday, if there are at least ten people in attendance. It has a popular library and a good handicraft shop. This place is a five-minute walk north of the main bazaar, next to the Tsemo-La Hotel.

Chortens and Mani Walls
Chortens are tower-shaped Tibetan equivalents of the Indian stupa. They are usually divided into thirteen sections representing the soul’s progression toward nirvana. Those that are found in gompas are often solid silver and are embedded with semiprecious gems. They also usually contain the ashes or sacred objects of important Rimpoches (incarnate lamas). They should always be circled clockwise.

There is a large, brightly colored Chorten between the main Leh bazaar and the bus station. Near the chorten is the 500m long Mani Wall, built by King Deldan Namgyal in 1635. These walls are constructed of many stones inscribed with sacred prayers, usually Om Mani Padme Hum, which means, “Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus.”

Shopping
Tibetan goods can be fairly expensive in Leh. Prices are much better in Dharamsala or Nepal. Even if you are told a product is made in Ladakh or that something is an antique, often this is not true. 

You can get Tibetan goods at the Tibetan Handicrafts Emporium on Main Bazaar Rd
Ladakh Art Palace, off the main bazaar, has a good selection of handicrafts and Buddhist products. Chang Tang Cooperative, in Karzoo, a 5-minute walk from the LEDeG, has pashima shawls starting at Rs 4000. Ladakh Village Curios has a good selection of handicrafts.
The Tibetan Children’s Village Handicraft Centre (TVC), up from the GPO, has good Tibetan carpets, thangkas and Nepali clothing at reasonable prices. 

Ali Shah’s Postcard Shop, a two-minute walk north of the main bazaar, has postcards, photos of Ladakh, stationary, and up-to-date film, including slide film.

The Ecology Centre (LEDeG) has good traditional clothing. They also have a place in the bazaar.

Cultural Shows
Ladakh Artists’s Society of Leh has good performances of Ladakhi music and dance daily in the summer outside the Leh Palace at 5.30 pm (Rs 50). You may need a flashlight (torch) for the walk home. 

Cultural and Traditional Society (CATS) arranges a cultural show opposite the Hotel Yak Tail at 6 pm.

Where to Stay 
Most of the hotels in Leh are only open from July to the end of September. Outside the high-season you can often get up to a 50% discount on a room. Often a 10% service charge is added to the price of the room. Ask about this before checking in. There are three main areas to stay: the old town, the newer area of town, and the village of Changspa.

Where to Stay—Lower in Old Town
Near the Leh Palace on the road going to Sankar Gompa there are several places to stay.
Old Ladakh Guest House has traditional Ladakhi rooms with common bath for Rs 100/175 and Rs 350 with bath. It is a friendly place
New Antelope Guest House is a popular place with clean rooms for Rs 100/175. It has a quiet garden.
Hotel Kailash has rooms with common bath for Rs 175. It has a garden.
Between the Old Ladakh Guest House and the polo grounds there are several places.
Sabila Guest House has rooms with common bath for Rs 125/175.
Tak Guest House is a popular place with rooms with common bath for Rs 175.
Firdous Hotel, next to the archery stadium, has rooms with common bath for Rs 100 and Rs 150 with bath.
Shalimar Guest House is a popular place with clean rooms for Rs 150.
Khan Manzil Guest House has decent rooms with common bath for Rs 100/125.
Where to Stay—Lower in Changspa
Changspa is around a 10-minute walk from the center of town. Many of the places in this area have nice gardens.
Tsavo Guest House has basic rooms in a traditional Ladakhi house for Rs 125.
Larchang Guest House has rooms for Rs 125/150.
Eagle Guest House has rooms for Rs 125/175. It has valley views.
Past the Changspa area are many family-run guesthouses.
Oriental Guest House is a friendly place with clean rooms for Rs 150.
Rinchens Guest House has clean rooms with bath for Rs 175.
Karzoo Guest House has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 100/185. Bucket hot water. It has a nice garden.
Rainbow Guest House has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 150/200.
Two Star Guest House is a friendly place that has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 125/200 and Rs 175/250 with bath.
Maryul Guest House has rooms with common bath downstairs for Rs 200, other rooms with common bath for Rs 250/300, and Rs 350 with bath.

Other Areas
On the road next to the German Bakery are several places.
Dehlux Hotel, Karzoo, has quiet rooms with common bath for Rs 125/175. Bucket hot water.
Ti-sei Guest House has a peaceful garden and rooms for 175. It is a good value.
Stream View Guest House, 39 Upper Tukcha Rd, has good rooms with common bath for Rs 125/200.
Jigmet Guest House, next door, has clean spacious rooms with common bath for Rs 300 and Rs 400 with bath.
Along Library Road there are several nice guesthouses.
Nezer View Guest House is a good place with rooms with common bath for Rs 200.
Hotel Hills View (52258), near the tourist office, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 150/200 and Rs 350 with a bath. It has a nice garden and some rooms have good views.
Kang La has rooms with bath for Rs 150.
Pangong Hotel, next door, has good rooms with hot water for Rs 300/400.

Where to Stay—Middle
Indus Guest House is a popular place that has rooms with hot water for Rs 400. Upstairs rooms are better.
Bimla Guest House has nice rooms with common bath for Rs 300/400 and with bath and hot water for Rs 400/500.
Hotel Choskar has pleasant rooms for Rs 500. It is a good value.
Yasmin Guest House has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 550. It is a good place.
Hotel Rockland has rooms for Rs 600.
Hotel Dragon (52339), on Library Rd, has modern rooms built around a courtyard with bath and hot water for Rs 600/800. It has a good restaurant. It is recommended, but is usually full.

Where to Stay—High
Khangri Hotel has rooms with local furniture for Rs 1200/1500.
Hotel Yak Tail (52118) has rooms for Rs 1200/1400. It has good facilities.
Hotel Ga-Iden Continental (52436) has rooms for Rs 1600/1900.
Tsemo La (52281), Karzoo, near the LEDeG, has comfortable rooms with hot water for Rs 1000/1800. It has a nice garden and good views.
Yak Tail, Changspa, has rooms for Rs 1200/1400. It is open in the winter. 
Ibex (52412), Fort Rd, near the bazaar, has rooms for Rs 1100/1300.
Hotel Omasila (52119) has rooms for Rs 1900/2200. It has a peaceful location.
Tsomo-Ri (52471) is a recommended place with rooms for Rs 2000/2300.
Bijoo (52331), near the library and the bazaar, is a friendly place with a nice garden that has good rooms for Rs 2000/2200. It has a good restaurant with a buffet.
Lharimo (52301) has good rooms with mountain views from the balconies for Rs 1900/2100. It is a good place.

Where to Stay—Winter
Most of the places close in the wintertime. In the winter prices are fairly high to pay for heating. Old Ladakh Guest House; the Hotel Ibex, Fort Rd, opposite the taxi stand and Khangri Hotel usually stay open.

Where to Eat 
Tibetan Kitchen, west end of Fort Rd, makes good Tibetan and Chinese food. It is a nice place with good service. Main dishes Rs 75.
Centerpoint, Fort Rd, in the Tsomo Hotel has Ladakhi food. Gezino, Fort Rd, is a popular cheap place.     
Mughal Darbar, Main Bazaar Rd, has good Indian food.
Dreamland Restaurant, in the Dreamland Hotel, is a popular Tibetan place, but also serves good Indian, Chinese, Western and breakfasts. It is pleasant place.
Ibex, Fort Rd, opposite the taxi stand in the Hotel Ibex, has very good Indian food.
Pumperknickel German Bakery, Old Fort Rd, has good baked goods, breakfasts and lasagna.
Instyle German Bakery, Fort Rd, is a relaxed terrace place that has good breakfasts, sandwiches and baked goods.
Tibetan Friends, near the taxi stand, is a popular place with good Tibetan food.
Kokonor, down a side lane on the main street, has good Chinese and Tibetan food.
Mona Lisa, near the Ecology Centre, is a popular place that has very good Indian, Tibetan and Western food. It has shady trees to sit under during the daytime.
La Montessori, Main Bazaar Rd, has good Tibetan, Western and Chinese food.
Amdo has good Tibetan and Chinese and Western food.
Summer Harvest, near the Hotel Yak Tail on Fort Rd, is a popular place serving good Continental food.
La Terrasse, near Soma Gompa, has good breakfasts. It has a pleasant terrace to sit on.

Local Travel
To go from the bus stand to Fort Road and most of the hotels costs about Rs 30. Taxis stay mainly at three different stands and do not drive around looking for customers. Prices are fixed by the taxi union and are listed at the taxi stands. During the off-season, you can often receive a 40% reduction from the fixed price. It is best to deal directly with the taxi driver and not to go into the office.

The largest taxi stand, No 1, is on Fort Rd and is open 7 am to 7 pm. There are also taxi stands at the New bus stand and the Old bus stand. Taxis stay on Fort Road in the early morning, waiting for people going to the airport or the New bus stand. 
Scooters can be hired from Yasmin Trek & Tours on Fort Rd; Oasis Travels, near the Indian Airlines office and Yati Travels, in the Main Bazaar. They cost around Rs 500 per day plus petrol.

Mountain bikes can be hired at the Lost Horizon travel agency, opposite the Hotel Yak Tail; and Highland Adventures in the Hotel Ibex for around Rs 200 per day.

Travel
It is best to book plane and bus tickets as far in advance as possible, especially at the end of the season. 

Air A taxi from the airport is Rs 100 to Leh. There may be an airport bus. Indian Airlines (52076; Airport: 52255), Fort Rd, is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm and Sun 10 am to noon; closed 1 to 2 pm for lunch. It can be a busy place, so it is best to be there before it opens. In the beginning and at the end of the season, after the road passes close and after the summer festival, the demand for tickets to leave Leh is the worst.
Between June and September, Indian Airlines has four flights a week to Delhi ($105), a weekly flight to Srinagar ($55) and Chandigarh ($70) and two flights a week to Jammu ($65).

You may want to fly to Chandigarh, if the flights to Delhi are very booked up (not unusual). Between October and May, Indian Airlines normally flies four times a week to Delhi, but flights are often canceled because of weather conditions. If this happens in Leh, passengers are given a place to stay.

Flights are often very booked up, so you should reserve a ticket well in advance (a month or more). If you are on the waiting list you should arrive at the airport early to try to get a seat on the flight.

Security is tough leaving Leh and if you have batteries or a knife in your carry-on luggage it will be taken from you. It will be given to the pilot and returned to you when you arrive at your destination.

Bus There are two routes to get to Leh by road, either from Manali (485km) in Himachal Pradesh or from Srinagar. You should book buses in advance at the New bus stand, but this may not always be possible at the end of the season, because of weather conditions.

The road between Manali and Leh is usually open from July to the middle of September, but it can often extend until mid-October. Whether the road is open depends on snow conditions. This trip takes two days and is uncomfortable, but the views can be great. There are more details about this trip further on in this chapter. Yasmin Treks and Tours, opposite the Dreamland Restaurant on Fort Rd, books HPTDC buses and private minibuses after the government buses stop running on September 15.

The road between Srinagar and Leh is usually open from mid-June to late-October, depending on weather conditions. The 435km trip takes about two days traveling around 12 hours each day, stopping in Kargil for the night. Bus tickets go on sale the day before between 4 and 5 pm at the J&KSRTC office at the Town bus stand.
Taxi & Jeep To travel between Leh and Manali is around Rs 11,000. There are fixed prices for different routes, but for long distances these rates can often be bargained down.

You may be able to get a taxi cheaper to Manali, if you find a taxi driver who is from Manali and wants to return quickly.

It costs Rs 250 extra for an overnight stop. The first hour of waiting time is free and additional hours are fixed at Rs 110 per hour.

Truck You can ride in a truck to Manali. You can ask at the truck stop on the road to the airport for a ride.

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