Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) Kerala

Thiruvananthapuram is the capital of Kerala. The city derives its name from Thiru-anantha-puram—the city, or puram, of Ananta, the sacred serpent. Lord Padmanabha (Lord Vishnu) reclines on Ananta here in the famous Sri

Padmanabhaswami Temple. The city is situated on seven small hills and is spread out over a large area. Thiruvananthapuram was made the capital of Travancore State by Dharma Raja two centuries ago.

Many foreign tourists come to this city on their way to the beach town of Kovalam, which is 18km away.

Orientation
Thiruvananthapuram is spread out over a fairly large area. The most important places are on or just off MG Road, which runs north–south through the center of town. The museums and zoo are on Museum Road, just off North MG Road. The Indian Airlines office and the Mascot Hotel are on north MG Road.

The railway station and bus station, in the southern part of town, are a few blocks east of MG Road, on Central Station Rd (also called Station or Subramaniam Rd), across the street from one another. A few minutes walk from the railway station is Manjalikulam Rd, where several budget hotels are located.

The Padmanabhaswami Temple is in the southern, old part of the city, south of the railway station. Not far from the temple on MG Road is the local bus stand, from which buses depart to Kovalam.
You can get a good city map from Pai and Company Bookshop on MG Road.

Information
The Tourist Information Center (321132), Museum Rd, is off the north end of MG Rd, across the street from the museum entrance. They have good literature on Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka and can provide information on Keralan festivals. Tours are not arranged here, but at the office next to the Chaithram Hotel. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm.

The KDTC Tourist Reception Center (330-031), on Station Rd in front of the Chaithram Hotel, near the railway station, organizes tours. Open Mon to Sat 6:30 am to 9:30 pm. There is also a KDTC Tourist counter at the long-distance bus stand. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 4:45 pm. There is a helpful Tourist Office at the airport.
The British Library (68716), YMCA, near the Secretariat, has British newspapers and magazines.

Cosmopolitan Hospital (448-182), in the northwest section of town, is a good hospital.

Tours
KTDC Tourism offers different tours at their office by the Chaithram Hotel. The Thiruvananthapuram tour (Rs 70, 8 am to 7 pm) goes to Sri Padmanabhaswami Temple, the Science and Technology Museum, the zoo, Veli Lagoon, Shanghmugham Beach, and Kovalam Beach.
The Tourist Reception Centre organizes a four-hour Backwater Tour.

The Kanyakumari Tour departs at 7:30 am and returns at 9 pm. It goes to Kovalam, Padmanabhapuram Palace (closed Mon), Suchindram Temple, and Kanyakumari (Rs 150). You can be picked up in Kovalam at 8:30 am, but they will not drop you off there. This tour is popular, so should be booked a few days in advance.

There is a Sabarimala Tour (Ayyappa Temple) departing the last day of the Malayalam month as well as every day during Mandala Puja and the Makaravilakku season. It departs at 9:30 pm and returns at 8:30 pm the next day.

Post and Internet
The GPO is down a side street off MG Road, in the Vanchiyur area, by the Sri Padmanabhaswami Temple. It is open from 8 am to 8 pm and has a poste restante downstairs. There is a tailor who can seal your package for you across the street. Poste restante sent to Kovalam may end up here.
NN Computers and Communication Centre (321-311), on MG Rd, near the Hotel Regency has email facilities. Email facilities at the Hotel Chaithram.

Money
Wall Street Finances, behind the Luciya Continental Hotel in East Fort (Mon to Sat 10 am to 6 pm) changes money efficiently.
State Bank of India on MG Road, near the Secretariat, and the Central Bank of India branch in the Chaithram Hotel, Station Rd, change money. The Andhra Bank, a block south of the Secretariat on MG Rd, is fairly efficient at changing money and also gives credit card advances.

The Thomas Cook office is at Tour India (phone & fax: 331-407), MG Rd. The American Express office is at The Great Indian Tour Company (331-422; fax 330-579), Mullassery Tavern, Vanross Junction.

Visa Extensions
You can apply for a visa extension at the Foreigners’ Registration Office, Commissioner of Police on Residency Rd. They do not normally extend a tourist visa, but only student and entry visas. The extension takes three days to a week. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm.

Travel Agencies and Car Rental
Travel Destination (330-702; fax 331-346), Chaithram Hotel, Central Station Rd, near the long-distance bus station, books and confirms airline tickets and reserves trains. Airtravel Enterprises India Limited (67183; fax 331-704), MG Rd. near the intersection with Museum Rd, is a good place to purchase airline tickets. They will also confirm tickets, help with visas, and exchange money. Aries Travels, Ayswarya Building, Press Rd, is a reliable place to arrange tours to the Maldives. Chalukya (444-618), Vadayakadu, Kunnukzhy, arranges high-end tours and treks to village areas.

To hire a car, there is Inter-Car (67964), Ayswarya Building, Press Rd; Travel India (78208), Convent Rd; Best Travel’s (62616), Pandit’s Building, Palayam; Natraj Travels (63064), Thampanoor; or Jolly Tours (72001), MG Rd, which is very good.

Bookshops
Higginbothams Bookshop and Pai & Co on MG Road are decent bookshops but carry limited stock. Continental Books, MG Rd. just north of Station Rd, has a decent selection of books. Morning Star Books in the Chaithram Hotel, Station Rd, has books about India and Southeast Asia and some maps. There is also DC Bookshop, Statue Junction, opposite the Secretariat.

Shopping
The Kairali Government Emporium, opposite the Secretariat on MG Road, and SMSM Handicrafts Emporium, behind the Secretariat, are both good shops. Chalai Bazaar by the railway station is a good place to shop. The Central Handicrafts Emporium has a good selection of items. Khadi Gramodyog, MG Rd, north of Station Rd, sells handloom cloth. Gram Sree sells village handicrafts. Natesan Antique Arts, MG Rd, north of Station Rd, sells temple woodcarvings, paintings, and other items. Their prices are high, but so is their quality.

Sri Padmanabhaswami Temple
This is an important and ancient Vishnu temple, believed to have been rebuilt by Marthanda Varma in 1733 AD. The temple is on an elevated part of the city, and its eastern tower (built in 1566) is seven-storeys high (30m). The temple is a blend of local Keralan style and Dravidian architecture. It is intricately carved in granite.

The main Deity in this temple is Lord Padmanabha, who reclines on Ananta, the thousand-headed serpent. He is 5.5m (18 ft) long, and is one of the largest Vishnu Deities in India. He was originally formed from an iluppa tree, but was later replaced with 12,000 shalagram-shilas, carried on elephant back from the River Gandaki in Nepal. The Deity reclines in a large, dimly-lit room. Devotees view him through three large doors, one revealing his feet, another his midsection (with Brahma on the lotus), and the third his chest and head.

It took seven months for 4,000 stonecutters, 8,000 workers, and a hundred elephants to build the Sreebalipura, the rectangular corridor surrounding the temple. There are 324 pillars in the temple corridor. It is 150m long on one side, 105m long on the other, and 7.5m (25 ft) wide.
After conquering the local area in 1729, Marthanda Varma, ruler of Travancore, came to the temple and offered all his possessions—his scepter, his sword, his army, and his people—to Lord Padmanabha. He symbolically placed the royal sword on the altar steps. He then received the sword back and ruled the state as “Padmanabha dasa,” servant of Lord Padmanabha. He ordained that his successors would do likewise.

The processional Deity of Lord Vishnu is taken at 4 pm on his daily procession around the temple grounds. There are several other deities in the temple including Sita, Rama, Hanuman, Krishna, and Yoga Narasimha.

The temple tank, Padma Teertham, is located just outside the main eastern entrance of the temple.
Only Hindus are allowed in the temple, but converted Hindus may also be permitted. Men must wear a dhoti and remove their shirts; women must wear saris. Entrance fee Rs 5. From MG Rd a large yellow gate marks the entrance to the temple.

The Padmanabha Swami Temple darshan times are 4.15 to 5 am, 6.45 to 7.30 am, 8.30 to 10.30 am, 11.30 to 11.45 am, and 5.15 to 7.30 pm.

Festivals
There are two main annual temple festivals, one in March-April (Meenam), and the other in Oct-Nov (Thulam). The Utsavam Festival is a ten-day festival. On each of the ten days there are festivities inside the temple (Hindus only).
During the Arat Festival, the last day of the Utsavam festival, the Sri Padmanabha processional Deity is brought around the temple and then carried in grand procession to Shangumugham Beach to be bathed. The procession is led by the Maharaja of Travancore and his five, gold-clothed elephants. The Maharaja, who walks the entire way, wears a simple white dhoti and goes bare-chested. Before the procession begins, there is a twenty-one-gun salute. The procession leaves the temple accompanied by music at 5 pm and arrives at the beach about an hour later. After the ceremonies at the beach, the Deity returns to the temple by about 9 pm. The day ends with a fireworks display.

Martial Arts Gyms
There is a martial arts gym near the red brick CVN Kalari Sangam close to the temple. You can view the students practicing Kalarippayat fighting. Foreigners can also take lessons. They also provide traditional Ayurvedic massage and have a good Ayurvedic doctor.

At PS Balachandran Nair Kalari martial arts gym (65140), in the eastern part of the city, Kalariyil, Cotton Hill, students are trained both in unarmed and armed combat in Kalarippayat, the traditional Keralan technique. Visitors can view classes with permission (daily 6 to 8 am and 6 to 7 pm). The school has short courses in Kalarippayat and foreigners are permitted to attend.

Museum, Gallery, Zoo and Public Gardens
These places are all in the park at the north end of the city, on Museum Rd; a few minutes walk east of MG Rd. The Napier Museum displays a fine collection of 400 bronze deities. It’s worth seeing. There is a 9th century Deity of Lord Vishnu with inlaid crystal eyes, a 17th century bronze Vishnu and Garuda, and a wooden sculpture of Narasimha. There are also elaborately carved wooden temple carts (ratha), 15th century Keralan woodcarvings, 12th century Chola, and 14th century Vijayanagar bronze deities, a wooden model of the Guruvayur temple, detailed ivory pieces, and gold necklaces. It has interesting architecture in the “Indo-Saracenic” style, with stained-glass windows and a wooden ceiling. Open daily except Mon 9 am to 5 pm; on Wed 1 to 5 pm.

The architecturally interesting Shri Chitra Art Gallery has paintings of the Rajput, Mughal, and Tanjore schools. There are also modern Indian paintings, especially ones painted by Ravi Varma (1848-1906), and Chinese, Japanese, Tibetan, and Balinese paintings. There are copies of the Ajanta frescoes.

The National History Museum has a collection of stuffed animals and dolls wearing traditional costumes. You get a ticket for all three places at the National History Museum for Rs 5.
Also in the park are a good Zoo and a Botanical Garden. The zoo is open 9 am to 5 pm daily except Monday. Admission Rs 5, camera Rs 5. Tickets sold at the Shri Chitra Art Galley.

Puthen Malika Palace (Horse Palace)
This was the palace of Prince Swati Tirunal, and is located just 100m southeast of the Padmanabhaswami Temple. The museum received the name “Horse Palace” because it contains 122 wooden pillars carved in the shape of galloping horses. It is an interesting example of Keralan architecture. The Puthen Malika Palace is also known as the Kuthira Malika Palace.
The museum contains weapons, paintings of the Rajas and Ranis of Travancore, a solid crystal throne, full-sized Kathakali figures, and items from Italy, China, and other places belonging to the Maharajas. It also has excellent murals. Open daily except Mon 8:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2 to 5:30 pm. Admission Rs 20; no cameras.
During the Musical Festival (Feb-March), which is held on the palace lawn, classical music is performed in memory of Prince Swati Tirunal’s love for music. He was a famous musician and composer.

Other Places
Chachu Nehru Children’s Museum, in the east part of the city in an area called Thycaud, has over 2,000 dolls, stamps, and ritual masks. Open Mon to Fri 10am to 5pm.

The Science and Technology Museum, Museum Rd, has science exhibits. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 1.

Margi
This is a school that often gives free Kathakali dance-drama and Kutiyattum (Keralan martial art) performances in the evening. You may also be able to watch a class. It is located west of the Padmana-bhaswami Temple, near Fort High School (%434-066). The school can also provide information about performances. Free performances take place at the Nishagandhi Auditorium from Sept to March on Sat at 6:45 pm.

Where to Stay
The hotels here fill up by later in the day, so it may be difficult to find a room by late afternoon. Besides staying in town, you can also stay at the beach in Kovalam (18km).

Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the inexpensive places are near the railway and bus stations, on or close to Station Rd. Most of the hotels on Station Rd are not very good and are especially noisy. A better area is along Manjalikulam Rd, which heads north off Station Rd and is a five-minute walk from the station. This road is lined with hotels for about 1km, from low-end to good mid-range hotels. It is a quiet street.
Sundar Tourist Home (330-532) has rooms with common bath for Rs 50/100 and Rs 65/110 with bath.
Nalanda Tourist Home (471-864), MG Rd, has rooms for Rs 100/140. The rooms on the street side are noisy, but the back rooms are not so bad. It is close to the local bus stand (for Kovalam).
Pravin (330-443), Manjalikulam Rd, has quiet rooms with clean bathrooms and big windows for Rs 125/200. TV in lobby.
Bhaskara Bhavan Tourist Paradise (79662) isn’t really a paradise, but the rooms are clean and cheap at Rs 75/125; some rooms go for Rs 100.
Sivada Tourist Home (330-320) is a good place with clean, well-maintained rooms for Rs 100/150 and Rs 250/350 with A/C. It is built around a nice courtyard.
Manacaud (327-578), Manjalikulam Rd, has large, clean rooms with bath for Rs 125/250.
Hotel Ammu, nearby, has rooms for Rs 200/250 and Rs 500 with A/C.
Hotel Kyvalya is a good place. It has double rooms with bath for Rs 350.
Taurus Lodge (77071), off Statue Road, is a good place with clean rooms. Some rooms are better than others. Well-managed and helpful. The owner is full of interesting information.
Omkara Lodge (78503), MG Rd, has really basic rooms for Rs 125/200.
Hotel Safari (477-202; fax 450541), MG Rd, has large rooms with bathtubs and hot water for Rs 225/325 and a room with A/C is Rs 500. It has a restaurant with a view of the city.
YWCA (446-518), Spencer Junction, has clean modern double rooms for Rs 300 and with A/C for Rs 400. It is a friendly good place. It is very popular, so it must be booked in advance.
Yatri Niwas (63711), Thycaud, is very cheap, basic and popular.

Where to Stay—Middle
The well-managed Hotel Regency (330-377; fax 331-696), Manjalikulam Rd, has clean, comfortable rooms with TV and hot water for Rs 300/450 and Rs 600/700 with A/C. It is a good value.
Hotel Highland (333-200), Manjalikulam Rd, is a tall building that can be seen from the railway station. It has comfortable, clean rooms for Rs 250/350 and Rs 550/650 with A/C. The staff here is helpful and friendly.
Hotel Amritha (323-091; fax 324-977), Thycaud, half a km from the railway station, has rooms for Rs 250/400 and Rs 500/675 with A/C.
Hotel Horizon (66888; fax 446-859), Aristo Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 550/700 and Rs 950/1100 with A/C. 24-hour checkout. It is a good value.
Residency (331-661; fax 331-311), Press Rd, has clean, modern rooms for Rs 550/700 and Rs 1000/1250 with A/C. It is a good value. Rooms have a phone and TV.
The modern KTDC Chaithram Hotel (330-977; fax 331-446), Central Station Rd, next to the KSRTC long-distance bus station, has good-size clean rooms for Rs 550/650 to Rs 950/1050 with A/C. It is conveniently located by the bus and train station. It has exchange facilities, a veg restaurant, beauty parlor, bookshop and a travel agency.
Wild Palms (454-071) is clean, pleasant guesthouse with large rooms for Rs 950.
Thamburu International (321-881), opposite the railway station, has comfortable rooms for Rs 700/750 and Rs 850/950 with A/C. It is a good value.
Hotel Navaratna (331-784), YMCA Rd, near Manjalikulam Rd, has modern rooms with TV for Rs 300/450 and Rs 550/750 with A/C.
The two-star Jas Hotel (324-682; fax 324-443), Aristo Junction, has rooms with TV for Rs 600/700 and Rs 900/1000 with A/C. It is a good value and is in a quiet place on a hill.

Where to Stay—High
Hotel Pankaj (464-645), MG Rd, opposite the Secretariat, is a well-maintained comfortable place with central A/C rooms with TV for Rs 1200/1600. Exchange facilities. It has a restaurant on the top floor with good views, which has buffet lunches.
KTDC Mascot Hotel, Museum Road, is a three-star hotel which is located about 3km north of the Padmanabhaswami Temple. Rooms with hot water, A/C and a TV are Rs 1200/1400 and suites are Rs 2500 plus 20% luxury tax. It has a pool. Best to see a few rooms before choosing one. Recommended.
The three-star Hotel Luciya Continental (463-443; fax 463-347), East Fort near the Sri Padmanabhaswami Temple, is a good, modern place with rooms for Rs 1895/2350 up to Rs 5500 for a suite. Centrally air-conditioned, pool, and bookshop.
The four-star South Park (333-333; fax 331-861), MG Road, is a Welcomgroup modern hotel with comfortable A/C rooms for Rs $60/70 up to Rs $120 for a suite. It has a good restaurant and coffee shop.
The well-managed Hotel Fort Manor (462-222; fax 460-560), Power House Junction, half a km south of the railway station, has clean large rooms (some with good views) with A/C for Rs 1250/1550. You can eat on the roof, from where there are good views of the city. It has a small gym.
Horizon (326-888; fax 324-444), Aristo Rd, a 10-minute taxi ride north of the railway station, has good value rooms. 24-hour checkout.

Where to Eat
Hotel Arulakam, across the street and two blocks down from the railway station, has a vegetarian restaurant.
Arul Jyothi, opposite the Secretariat on MG Road, is a fairly good, cheap South Indian place.
Sri Ram Sweet Stall, on MG Rd near the Hotel Pankaj, is a good, cheap place.
Ananda Bhavan Restaurant, further north, is a basic South Indian meal place with a big selection of sweets.
The A/C Azad Restaurant, MG Rd, south of the railway station, is a good value.
Nearby, Rangoli, MG Rd, is a clean A/C place serving Indian and Chinese food.
Hotel City Tower, MG Rd, is a popular lunch place.
Vinayak Vegetarian Restaurant, Dharmalayam Rd, near Manjalikulam Rd, serves Keralan food.
Ananda Jyoti, Manjalikulam Rd, serves cheap Indian food.
Hotel Arroya, Station Rd, has good, cheap South Indian food.
There is an Indian Coffee House on Central Station Rd and one at Spencer Junction, MG Rd.
Prime Square, junction of Manjalikulam Rd and Central Station Rd, is a popular place with an ice cream place.
City Queen Restaurant, in the Highlands Hotel, Manjalikulam Rd, has good Chinese, Indian and Western food.
The KTDC Chaithram has two good restaurants. One is pure-veg and the other one is a Mughal-style North Indian place.
Sandhya Restaurant, on the 5th floor of the Pankaj Hotel, has good views of the city. The lunch buffet is a good value.
The Regency Hotel and Fort Manor Hotel have top-floor restaurants.
South Park Hotel serves good lunch and dinner buffets.
The Promenade in the Mascot Hotel, Museum Rd, has snacks and ice cream.
Hotel Pankaj has a restaurant on the top floor with good views and buffet lunches.
Snoozer’s Ice Cream, off Manjalikulam Rd, near Residency Towers, has ice cream, milkshakes and other goodies.

Local Travel
The rickshaw drivers are usually willing to use the meter. To get from the train station to the museum is about Rs 20.

Travel
Air There are flights to Bangalore (4 weekly, $105), Chennai (daily, $105), Delhi (daily, $325), Male (daily, $75) and Mumbai (3 daily, $175).
From Thiruvananthapuram, Air India flies to the Gulf. Some of those flights continue on to Europe and New York. Gulf Air flies to London and New York. There are daily Indian Air and Air Lanka flights to Colombo ($80), Sri Lanka. Indian Airlines and Air Maldives have daily flights to Male.

Airlines offices: Indian Airline (316-870), Mascot Junction; Air India (434-837), Museum Rd, Velayambalam Circle; Air Maldives (329-557), MG Rd; British Airways (326-604), Niranjan Towers; Jet Airways (322-329), Akshay Towers, Shastamangalam Junction; Gulf Air (328-003) KP Elankath Rd, Vellayambalam; Kuwait Airways (323-436), Panavila Junction; Air Maldives (76341); and Air Lanka (328-767), Geethanjali Building, Vazhuthacaud.

The airport is near the beach, 6km from town. If you arrive on an international flight, you can change money at the bank before going through customs. It gives a good exchange rate. Local bus #14 goes downtown. A prepaid taxi costs Rs 80 to Rs 100 to the city and Rs 200 to Rs 220 to Kovalam.

Train The reservation office (64585) is on the first floor of the ticket office building (open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, Sun 8 am to 2 pm). Foreign tourist booking is handled at counter 8, the Chief Reservations Supervisor’s office, at the top of the stairs. They have a generous tourist quota.
It is best to book your train as far in advance as possible as it can sometimes be difficult to get a train out of Thiruvananthapuram. Trains to the larger cities can be booked a month in advance.
There are direct trains to Mangalore, Ernakulam (5 hr), Kanyakumari (2 hr), and many other places. There are about seven trains a day to Thrissur (8 hr). The train to Madurai departs about 7 pm and arrives in Madurai at 4 am. There are 12 trains daily to Kollam (1½ to 2½ hr, 65 km) via Varkala (50 min). Around ten trains a day go to Kochi.

Bangalore Kanyakumari-Bangalore Exp #6525 (9.20 am, 19 hr); Chennai Thiruvananthapuram-Chennai Mail #6320 (2 pm, 17 hr); Delhi Kerala Exp #2625 (11 am, 54 hr), Himsagar Exp #6017 (3.15 pm, Fri only); Goa (Margao) Rajdhani Exp #2431 (7.15 pm, 12 hr; Sun, Mon), Rajkot Exp #6334 (1.30 pm, 21 hr; Fri), Gandidham Exp #6336 (3.30 pm, 21 hr; Sat) Mumbai

Kanniyakumari-Mumbai Exp #1082 (7.15 pm, 45 hr). Mangalore Malabar Exp #6329 (5.40 pm, 16 hr), Thiruvananthapuram-Mangalore Exp (6 am, 15 hr).

Bus Long-distance buses depart from the Central Bus Station (KSRTC Thampanoor bus terminal), opposite the railway station. For short to medium trips, the buses are usually quicker than the trains. For lengthier trips, such as to Chennai, it is best to take a train.

Buses go to Kochi (5 hr), Chennai (17 hr, 4 daily), Madurai (7 hr, 10 daily), Bangalore (18 hr), and Kanyakumari via Nagercoil (2 hr, 12 daily).

About ten buses go daily to Madurai, some on the way to Chennai. You may be told that you cannot buy a ticket until a half-hour before departure. The problem is that some of the buses also go to Chennai, and you can purchase a ticket for Chennai hours in advance. Therefore, when you return, you will find the bus full. I saw this happen on two separate occasions. A good alternative is to take a bus to Nagercoil, about two hours away, and then get one of the many Nagercoil to Madurai buses from there. It took me seven hours to make the trip, the same amount of time it would have taken me to go from Thiruvananthapuram to Madurai directly. If you are staying in Kovalam, you do not necessarily have to come to Thiruvananthapuram to get to Madurai. You may be able to take a bus directly to Nagercoil and save time and trouble.

Transportation to Kovalam
There are many buses going to Kovalam Beach daily. You take bus #111 at the Fort Bus Stand, 100m south of the local bus stand on MG Rd, by the Hotel Luciya (Rs 4). At first the bus is usually very crowded, but it empties out quickly. If there is a long queue (line) to purchase a ticket, you can get a boy to wait in line for you for a few rupees.
You can get a shared taxi to Kovalam for Rs 20 per seat from the bus stand. An auto-rickshaw costs Rs 70 to go to the lighthouse end of the beach.

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