Dharamsala & Mcleod Ganj Himachal Pradesh

Many travelers come here, and the atmosphere is like that in Kathmandu. This is where the Dalai Lama lives with his followers. It is located at an altitude between 1200m and 1800m, so it is a pleasant place to come in the summer, but the winters gets very cold. Located in a beautiful area, it is a nice place to take a walk around the countryside.

The town is divided into a lower part and upper part, which is called McLeod Ganj, 10km above Dharamsala. Most visitors stay in McLeod Ganj. The Tibetan Government in Exile is located at Gangchen Kyishong, four km from Dharamsala.
The accommodations in Dharamsala are not so good, and the only reason to stay here is that you have an early morning bus or you arrive late. Most people immediately head up to McLeod Ganj. The busy season is from March to June. It is especially crowded in late Feb or early March during the Tibetan New Year.

Information
The useful HPTDC Tourist Office (23866) is close to the Dhauladhar Hotel and the bus stand. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm.

The State Bank of India, in Kotwa li Bazaar, and the Punjab National Bank change money. The State Bank only accepts American Express and Thomas Cook travelers cheques.

The TCV Handicrafts Centre, between McLeod Ganj and lower Dharamsala, has a good range of quality Tibetan products. At this place, Tibetan children are trained in traditional handicrafts.

The Jagson Airlines office (24928) is in Kotwali Bazaar. Potala Travels, Bhagsu Rd, opposite the Hotel Tibet, is a good travel agency.

Tours
Himachal Pradesh Tourism has two luxury bus tours daily (during the season) from Dharamsala. One goes to McLeod Ganj, Jawalamukhi, Kangra Temple and the Fort in Kangra (10 am to 7 pm, Rs 100). The other tour goes to Bhagsunath, Dal Lake, Tapovan, Talnu, and Chamunda (9 am to 5 pm, Rs 60).

Kangra Art Museum
This museum has Kangra style paintings and embroidered outfits worn by tribal people of Kangra. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm; free.

Where to Stay
Most people stay in the lower part of Dharamsala only long enough to get a bus to McLeod Ganj.
Rising Moon Hotel (22635), Kotwali Bazaar, is a real basic place with rooms for Rs 65, some with bath.
B Mehra Hotel has really basic singles with common bath for Rs 100 and doubles with bath for Rs 150. It has good views.
Tibet United Association Hotel is about the same.
Basera Lodge (22234), Kotwali Bazaar, is one of the best of the budget places, with clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 175 to Rs 300.
Hotel Simla is a good place with rooms for Rs 100/125.
HPTDC Dhauladhar Hotel (24926), near the bus stand, has good-sized double rooms with hot water and a good view from the balcony for Rs 1000. A room without a view is Rs 800. Dorm beds are Rs 50. It has a good garden and a billiard table. It is the best place in the lower part of town. It has a mid-range restaurant.
Clouds End Villa, Naoroji Rd, is a British Raj type building in a peaceful location with rooms for Rs 1000. It is a good place.

Where to Eat
Potala Restaurant has Chinese and Tibetan food.
Rising Moon Restaurant has good, cheap Indian, Chinese and Tibetan food, and breakfasts.
Travel—Dharamsala to McLeod Ganj
From the lower part of town to McLeod Ganj is a 30-minute bus ride. The buses (Rs 5) run every hour and there are also Maruti van-taxis that make the trip. The first bus down from McLeod Ganj to Dharamsala is at 4 am. You can walk down the hill to the lower part of town in 40 to 50 minutes. It is a tough climb up the hill. Taxis from the taxi stand cost Rs 100 to McLeod Ganj.

Travel
Air There is an airport at Gaggal (15km), from where there are flights to Delhi via Kullu.

Train The nearest broad gauge railway station is at Pathankot (4 hr). The Jhelum Exp #1077 departs from Delhi at 9.50 pm and arrives in Pathankot at 8.25 am, and from there you take a bus. You can also take the Jammu Tawi Mail #6031 (11.20 pm) from Delhi to Pathankot (12 hr).

Bus Buses to Shimla (11 hr) depart in the morning and late afternoon. There is a deluxe bus to Delhi (14 hr) and Shimla (7 am). There are buses to Mandi (6 hr), Kullu (10 hr), Manali (13 hr), Dehra Dun (one daily at 9 pm), Chandigarh (9 hr), Dalhousie (6 hr), Chamba (8 hr), and Pathankot (4 hr, hourly). From Pathankot you can get a bus to Amritsar (3 hr).

There are deluxe buses to Manali (13 hr, 9 am, Rs 300) and Kullu. To get to Parvati Valley you can take the deluxe bus to Manali and get off at Bhuntar (9 hr) and from there you can get one of the regular locals buses to Manikaran. There is a deluxe HPTDC bus to Chamba (7.30 am) via Dalhousie.

Norbulinka Institute
Norbulinka, 4km from Dharamsala, was established to preserve Buddhist teachings and traditional Tibetan art. Done here is thangka painting, carving and embroidery. It is set in a nice garden. Courses in the Tibetan language and Buddhism are offered at this place.

There is a Guesthouse that has clean Tibetan style rooms for Rs 600 and Rs 900 for a suite. You get here by taking the bus to Yol and get off at Sidhapur, near the Sacred Heart School. From there it is a 15-minute walk. A taxi from McLeod Ganj is Rs 150.

McLeod Ganj
Phone Code: 01892

McLeod Ganj is a popular place with travelers. It is the home of the Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, and is where the Tibetan Government in Exile is located. It is a friendly and good place to spend some time. You will need warm cloths here at night, even during the summer. It rains heavily during the rainy season from July to the beginning of September. During the winter is can get very cold.

Orientation
The main area of the town is where the bus stand is located. From there, roads extend in different directions. Two roads go south, parallel with each other, one going past St John in the Wilderness Church to Dharamsala. Just south of the bus stand is the Temple and Prayer Wheels. From the bus stand a road goes east to Bhagsu and a road heads north to Dharamkot and the Tushita Retreat Meditation Centre.

South of the bus stand is the main bazaar. Temple Rd goes south to Tsuglagkhang (the Dalai Lama’s Temple) and another roads goes south to Gangchen Kyishong, about 3km south, pass the village of Jogibara.

Information
You can change money at the State Bank of India. It only changes American Express and Thomas Cook travelers cheques in US dollars and British pounds. The Bank of Baroda will give money against a Visa card, with a few days advance notice. There are several travel agencies that change money, but usually they give less then the banks. Paul Merchants Ltd, near the bus stand, changes money and transfers money from overseas.

The post office is on Jogibara Rd, near the State Bank of India. You can get a custom form (needed to post a parcel) at the Tibetan Handicraft Office, opposite the bank. There is a place next to the post office that can make a package. Poste restante letters are held for one month. Unless the letter is addressed to McLeod Ganj, Upper Dharamsala, it will go to the GPO in Lower Dharamsala.

You can send and receive faxes at the telecom office, which is next to the bus stand, upstairs. The fax number is 24528, but it is turned off on the weekends. Open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm.
Taxi drivers have fixed rates for going on various tours of the area. One tour goes to Chamunda, Baijnath, Palampur and Tapovan. Several other possibilities are offered.

Bombay Studios, behind the Mc’LLo Restaurant, has e-mail facilities and can send and receive a fax (fax number 23002).

At the Computer Resource Centre, above the Department of Information, you can send (Rs 70) and receive (Rs 20) e-mail. Their address is tcrc@unv.ernet.in. You can also use a computer for Rs 50 per hour. The Green Cyber Cafe, next to the Green Hotel, has 10 computers for e-mail. Their e-mail address is greenhotel@yahoo.com.

The Bookworm is a good bookshop. Occidental Bookshop, on Mall Rd, has used books. The Tibetan Bookshop has books relating to Tibet.
A horse can be hired at the Occidental Bookshop, on Mall Rd, for Rs 600 per day.

There is a roller skating rink at the Hotel Bhagsu.

Medical
The Tibetan Medical and Astrological Institute (22484) has a good reputation. They use traditional Tibetan medicine. Several people have told me they had good success with Tibetan medicine (especially with stomach disorders).
Dr Yeshi Dhonder (21461), off Jogibara Rd, has a Tibetan medicine clinic (8 am to noon). He has treated the Dalai Lama and people have recommended him to me to be effective.
Delek Hospital (22053), Jogibara Rd, uses Tibetan medicine.

Dalai Lama
Every year in February or March the Dalai Lama usually gives classes, which are open to the public. I was told he also may give classes in June. You may request to have a private audience with His Holiness the Dalai Lama by contacting his secretary, whose office in next to his residence in McLeod Ganj. You are supposed to ask for an appointment at least four months in advance, because his schedule is so busy. Very few people are granted a private audience, as the Dalai Lama’s secretary receives many requests every day.

Most people can only count on attending a public audience, where he personally greets and shakes the hand of up to one thousand people at one time. It is difficult to know in advance when an audience will be, because they are usually only announced several days in advance. To come to a public audience, you have to fill in a form and present you passport in advance at the Branch Security Office on Bhagsu Rd near the Hotel Tibet, above the Welfare Office in McLeod Ganj. I was told that he gives a public audience once a month when he is in McLeod Ganj.

When I went to a public audience, I was told the day before that it would be at 10 am. I came at 9.15 am and there was a line. At 9.30 am everyone started to go through a security check. You are not allow to carry anything in for the audience, including a camera or a cigarette lighter. Anything you are carrying has to be checked in with security. When you enter, the audience takes place in front of the Dalai Lama’s residence, directly in front of you as you come up the hill, not to your right. When I went for audience, it began around 10.20 am. The Dalai Lama shakes hands with everyone, but I did not see him talk to anyone. I highly recommend the experience.
The address and fax number of the Dalai Lama’s office is Thekchen Choeling, McLeod Ganj 176219, Dharamsala, HP; fax 21813; e-mail ohhdl@cta.unv.ernet.in.

Regional Mountaineering Centre
This place (24330), on the road to Dharamkot, about a 15-minute walk north of town, can give information on mountain climbing and trekking in the Kangra and Chamba Valleys. They have a book with a detailed description with basic maps of the treks in the area and Survey of India trekking maps. The people here are serious and helpful.

Travel and Trekking Agencies
Himachal Travels (22723), on TCV Rd, books trains from Pathankot, buses, airlines tickets, reconfirms international airlines tickets, books taxis and arranges treks.

Dhauladhar Travels (23158) can arrange international and national airlines tickets. Bedi Travels (22359) can confirm international flights. Potala Tours and Travels (22587; fax 24327), opposite the Hotel Tibet, is an established helpful travel agency.

Yeti Trekking (22887), off Dharamkot road, arranges custom treks. High Land Trekker’s (21740; fax 21578), is a good place for arranging a trek. Recommended.

Eagle Height Trekkers & Travellers (24330), on the road going to the Hotel Bhagsu, arranges treks in the area, in Chamba and Kullu valleys, and in Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti. They can organize guides and porters.

Courses
You can take a Vipasana course at the Dhamma Sikhara Himachal Vipasana Meditation Centre in Dharamkot. You have to be silent during these courses and follows all the rules and programs. They are very popular in the spring and summer, so they should be booked in advance. You have to apply in person between 3 and 4 pm, or you can fill in the application form by e-mail. The address is Dhamma Sikhara, McLeod Ganj 176219, Dharamsala, Dist Kangra, HP (21309). The courses are free, but a student can give a donation after they finish the course.

The Tushita Retreat Centre, past the Regional Mountaineering Centre in Dharamkot, a twenty-minute walk from town, offers Buddhist residential courses. They should be booked in advance. It cost Rs 40 for a dorm bed and Rs 75 for a single to stay here during a retreat. There is a library, and books on Buddhism can be purchased here. The office is open Mon to Sat 9.30 am to 11.30 pm and 1 to 4.30 pm.

You can study the Tibetan language at the Library of Tibetan Works on weekdays (Rs 250 per month). Pema Youdon, a Tibetan woman, teaches Tibetan for Rs 40 per hour. She lives opposite the post office.

You can study Tibetan performing art at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA), a 15-minute walk from town.

Tsuglagkhang (Dalai Lama’s Temple and Residence)
This is the most important Buddhist place in McLeod Ganj. It has a 3m high statue of Shakyamuni Buddha (the historical Buddha), and a statue of Avalokiteswara (the Tibetan deity of compassion), of whom the Dalai Lama is considered to be an incarnation. There is also a statue of Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche), who came to Tibet in the 8th century and established Buddhism there. Each afternoon Buddhist monks come here and engage in philosophical discussions.

There is a new museum called the Tibet Museum at the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which exhibits the Tibetan problems with the Chinese, starting in 1950 until the exile of the Dalai Lama. Entry Rs 5.
Located here are sacred texts known as the Khagyur (translated from Sanskrit), which are based on the Buddha’s teachings. Also there is the Tangyur, which are translations of commentaries of Buddha’s teachings that include works of philosophy, medicine and astrology.

The Residence of the Dalai Lama is next to the temple.

There is a nice path that goes around the temple and the place where the Dalai Lama lives. It has some prayer wheels, prayer flags and mani stones. This walk should be done clockwise.

To get here follow the road to Dharamsala and look for a sign that says Institute of Buddhist Dialectics, when the roads bears left and down.

Dip Tse-Chok Ling Gompa
This interesting gompa is located down a road past the Om Guest House. Located here is a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha and two gigantic drums made by monks here. There are some excellent butter sculptures, which are made during Losar (Tibetan New Year) and then destroyed the next year during Losar.

Other Places
St John in the Wilderness Church is a little south of McLeod Ganj on the road to Dharamsala. Open 8 am to 5 pm.

The Library of Tibetan Works, at Gangchen Kyishong, south of town, has a good collection of Tibetan literature and manuscripts. It has original Tibetan manuscripts, Buddhist statues, Mandalas, photos, and a reference library about the Himalayan area. Tibetan language and Buddhist philosophy courses can be taken here. Open Mon to Fri 9 am to 5 pm.

The Tibetan Medical & Astrological Institute is at Gangchen Kyishong, just south of town, about a five-minute walk from the Tibetan Library. There is a museum and a library. Tibetan medicine and astrology are taught here. You can have a lifetime horoscope done. Medicines are made from herbs, semiprecious stones and sometimes animal products.

Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA) promotes the Tibetan performing arts. There is a three-day festival beginning on 27 May, the anniversary of the foundation of the Institute. In April, the TIPA has a festival with dancing and drama.

Walks
There are many nice walks in the area and the views are very good. The walk to the village of Dharamkot is good and there are some nice views from there. You could then walk to Bhagsu and then back to McLeod Ganj. The walk to Bhagsu is good and there is a Siva temple and a small waterfall there.

The 8km walk to Triund (2825m) brings you to the foot of the Dhauladhar range. There are some great views from Triund. It is a fairly steep walk to get there. From this place you can walk another 6km to Ilaqa.

From Jogibara, a village between McLeod Ganj and Gangcehn Kyishong, a path leads to the end of the ridge, from where there is a good view of Dharamsala and the area.

Shopping
The shops here have a good selection of Tibetan items.

The Office of Tibetan Handicrafts, opposite the State Bank of India, has Tibetan bags, hats and chubas (Tibetan dresses). The Tibetan Handicrafts Society, opposite, makes Tibetan carpets.
The Green Shop, on the road to Bhagsu, sells natural products, rechargeable batteries, hand-painted T-shirts, environmental books and filtered and boiled water.

Tara Herbal Gift Shop, near the bus stand, has Tibetan incense and books on Tibetan medicine.

Where to Stay
Dharamsala is very popular and many hotels are often full, especially in May and June, and in March when His Holiness the Dalai Lama gives classes.

Where to Stay—Lower
Ashoka (21763) is a budget hotel that has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 55/80 and with bath for Rs 225 to Rs 400. Some rooms have hot water. Good views from the roof. Recommended.
Shangrila, near the chorten, has rooms with bath for Rs 140. Hot water in a bucket Rs 10.
Hotel Snow Palace (22291), in back of the Shangrila, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 80/110 to Rs 130 and with bath for Rs 200/250. There are also some better rooms with a view of the valley.
Om Hotel (24313), near the bus stand, is a quiet, popular place that has rooms with common bath for Rs 200 and Rs 350 with bath. It is often full. All rooms have views. Hot water in a bucket Rs 10. It is a friendly place. It has a nice patio area to hang out at that has an excellent view. Recommended.
Ekant Lodge, on Jogibara Rd, has clean rooms for Rs 250. There is constant hot water.
Dip Tse-Chok Ling Gompa, about half a km down some steps, near the Om Guest House, has basic rooms for Rs 125. It is a peaceful place with some good views. It is a really tough climb back up the hill to town, from this place.
A popular place is the Green Hotel (22000), which has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 200 and rooms with bath for Rs 350 to Rs 450. There are good views from some rooms. It has a good popular restaurant.
Tashi Khansar, across from the Green, has single rooms with common bath with hot water for Rs 150 and rooms with bath for Rs 200/265. There are good views from some rooms.
International Guest House (22476), Jogibara Rd, is a friendly place with clean rooms with hot water.
Paljor Ghakyil Guest House (21443) is a recommended place that has clean rooms with bath for Rs 175. Rooms with hot water, a carpet and a great view are Rs 300.
Also good is the Ladies Venture Guest House (22559), which has very clean rooms with bathrooms shared between two rooms for Rs 175/225, and a room with a private bath is Rs 200/325. It is a well-managed, recommended place. You have to tell them in advance to get hot water. It has a good restaurant.
Kungra Hotel, near the Green Hotel, has rooms for Rs 150/200 and two rooms with a balcony with good views for Rs 350/400. Check your bill.
Zilnon Kagyeling Nyingmapa Gompa, on the road to Bhagsu, has basic rooms for Rs 100. A hot shower is Rs 10.
Kalsang Guest House (21709) has rooms with common bath for Rs 75/125. Rooms with bath and hot water are Rs 200 to Rs 350. There is a good view from the roof.

Where to Stay—Middle
Lhasa Guest House has good rooms with common bath for Rs 125 and Rs 250 with bath. The bus stand next door can make it noisy at times.
Hotel Tibet (21587; fax 21425) is a good place with clean, spacious, comfortable rooms with bath and TV for Rs 550 to Rs 800. It has a good restaurant. Recommended.
Hotel Natraj (22529) has nice rooms with constant hot water for Rs 350 to Rs 600. The front rooms and the roof have a good view. It has a restaurant.
Drepung Loseling Guest House (21087) has good rooms with bath for Rs 175, Rs 210 for a room with hot water, and Rs 275 for a room with a good view. Dorm beds are Rs 60. This is a good popular place.

Where to Stay—High
Chonor House (22006; fax 22010), at the south end of McLeod Ganj, has double rooms with bath for Rs 1000 and singles with bath shared between two rooms for Rs 800. Rooms have Tibetan artifacts in them.
Hotel Him Queen (21861; fax 23184) has nice rooms with a TV and a balcony for Rs 1000 and Rs 1600 for a deluxe room. It has a rooftop restaurant. Some rooms have views.
The well-managed HPTDC Hotel Bhagsu (23191) has comfortable rooms with good views for Rs 600 to Rs 1200.
Surya Resorts (21418; fax 21686) has modern, comfortable rooms for Rs 1000/1200 and Rs 2400 for a deluxe rooms. Rooms have great views. There are good discounts in the off-season. Exchange facilities.
Glenmore Cottages (25010), 2km from McLeod Ganj, has five comfortable cottages with hot water and heaters for Rs 1000 to Rs 1800. It is in a peaceful location.

Where to Eat
Nick’s Italian Restaurant, in the Kungra Hotel, is a good vegetarian place (with eggs) that has Italian and Tibetan food. It has good salads. Recommended.
Green Hotel Restaurant, is a very popular, good vegetarian (with eggs) place.
Gakyi Restaurant, on Jogibara Rd, has good breakfasts, Western and Tibetan food, and baked goods.
Chocolate Log, near the post office on Jogibara Rd, has good Western food, cakes and pizza. It has an outdoor terrace.
Tsongkha Restaurant, opposite the Snowland, has good vegetarian Tibetan food. The tofu dishes are good.
Friends’ Corner is a popular friendly place with good food and breakfasts. It has a good sound system.
Om Guest House has good Chinese, Tibetan and Western food at very reasonable prices. It is a friendly, popular place with a good location for watching the sunset.
Ashoka, Jogibara Rd, has good Indian food at above average prices (Rs 90 for a main dish).
Bhakto Restaurant has cheap Tibetan food.
Dreamland Restaurant has good salads.
Aroma Restaurant, near the Ashoka, has good cheap Israeli and Indian food.
Yak, across from the Aroma, has good Tibetan food.
Snowland has very good Tibetan food.
Shangrila, near the prayer wheel, has good Indian and Western food.
Malabar, near the chorten on Jogibara Rd, has good Indian, Continental and Chinese food.
Sambala has good Indian and Western food.
The restaurant in the Hotel Tibet has good high-priced Indian and Tibetan food.
Take Out, under the Hotel Tibet, has good baked goods.
Mc’LLo, next to the bus stand, is a popular, good place with Indian and Western food. It has good service. It is not cheap.
Hotel Bhagsu has a good restaurant. On warm days you can eat in the garden.

Local Travel
There are buses from the bus stand every half-hour to Dharamsala between 4.30 am and 8 pm. An auto-rickshaw to Bhagsu is Rs 35. A taxi for the day is Rs 600 for less than 80km.

Travel
Air The closest airport is in Gaggal, 15km south of Dharamsala, from where there are flights to Delhi via Kullu.

Train The closest railway station on a main line is in Pathankot (4 hr) in Punjab. Travel agencies can arrange tickets out of Pathankot for around Rs 35. There is a railway booking office in Dharamsala near the bus stand, but there is only a small quota. Open daily except Sun 10 to 11 am.
There is a railway station in Nagrota (20km south) that is on the narrow gauge line going between Pathankot and Jogindernagar. It takes five hours to get to Pathankot and it is much faster to take the bus. The four-hour ride between Nagrota and Jogindernagar is an interesting ride through the Kangra Valley. It gives you a good view of the Dhauladhar Range in the north. It stops in Palampur (1 hr) and Baijnath (2 hr). Trains from Nagrota to Jogindernagar depart at 7 am and 2 pm.

Bus There are daily state buses to Manali (12 hr, 5.30 am and 6 pm), a deluxe bus to Delhi (12 hr) and a bus to Dehra Dun (12 hr, 7 pm). The long distance bus station is in the lower part of town (Dharamsala) below the tourist office.
Potala Tours & Travels and Himachal Travels (22723), on Mall Rd, arrange private buses to Delhi, Manali, Leh and Shimla.

Beti Travels (22359), Mall Rd, books tickets to Dalhousie (5.30 am) and Chamba.

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