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Travel to Delhi

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Air At Indira Gandhi International Airport there are two terminals: the International Terminal (terminal II) (329-5121) is 22km from the center of town, and the domestic terminal (Terminals IA and IB) (565-2050), 15km from the center of town. There is a free shuttle bus between the two terminals leaving every thirty minutes.

There is a State Bank of India (open 24 hours) and a Thomas Cook foreign exchange counter at the International arrival hall. Once you have left the arrival hall, you are not permitted reentry. I have found that the taxi drivers at the airport will take American dollars at slightly inflated prices.

NOTE You should change money before leaving the departure area because you are not allowed to reenter the departure area after leaving it and there is no place to change money outside.

Many international flights come in and out of Delhi at the worst times. Most flights leave and depart between midnight and 6 am. If you have to catch a 4 am flight departing from Delhi, it is best to book a taxi through your hotel in the afternoon, as it will be difficult to find one at midnight. If you have just arrived in India and it is late at night, beware of the taxi drivers if this is your first time in India. Please read the warning section.

There is a departure tax of Rs 500 to leave the country. The restaurants inside the International Terminal are not good.

There are dormitories across the parking lot, which are a good place to stay. Some of the rooms have six beds, and you can rent the entire room. Rooms are usually only rented to transit passengers. You book them at the Airport Manager’s office. When you go through immigration, before getting to security, there are nice bed-like chairs where you can sleep for an hour or two between checking in and getting on the plane.

International Airlines
Aeroflot
BMC House, 1st floor, 1-N-Block, Connaught Place (331-0426)
Air Canada
Suite 1421, New Delhi Hilton (372-0014)
Air France
7 Atma Ram Mansion, Connaught Place (331-7054)
Air India
Jeevan Bharati Building, Connaught Place (331-1225)
Air Lanka
Room 1, Hotel Janpath, Janpath (332-6843)
Alitalia
19 Kasturba Gandhi Marg (331-1019)
Bangladesh Biman
N-40 Connaught Place (331-2119)
British Airways
Sansad Marg, Connaught Place (332-7428)
Cathay Pacific
Tolstoy House, Tolstoy Marg (332-1286, 332-3919)
Delta Airlines
  Chandralok Building, 36 Janpath (332-5222)
Druk Air
Chandralok Building, 36 Janpath (331-0990)
Emirates Kanchenjunga
Bldg, 18 Barakhamba Rd. (332-4665)
Ethiopian Airlines
Hotel Janpath, Janpath (372-2162)
Gulf Air
G-12 Marina Arcade, Connaught Place (332-2018)
Iran Air
Ashok Hotel, Chanakyapuri (610-0101)
Japan Airlines
Chandralok Building, 36 Janpath (332-7724, 332-4858)
Kazakhstan Airlines
Hotel Janpath (332-4889)
KLM
Prakash Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg (332-6822)
Kuwait Airway
2C DCM Building, 16 Barakhamba Rd. (331-4223)
Lot Polish Airlines
G-55 Connaught Place (332-4482)
Lufthansa
56 Janpath (332-3310)
Malaysian Airline
G-Block, Connaught Place (332-1408)
North West Airlines
Indra Prakash Building, Barakhamba Rd (371-6006)
Pakistan International Airlines (PIA)
Ranjit Hotel, Maharaja Ranjit Singh Rd (331-3161)
Qantas Airway
Mohandev Building, 13 Tostoy Marg (332-9732)
Royal Jordanian Airlines
G-56 Connaught Circus (332-7418, 332-0635)
Royal Nepal Airlines
44 Janpath (332-1572; Airport: 565-3387)
SAS
Ambadeep Bldg, Kasturba Gandhi Marg (332-2299)
Saudi Arabian Airlines
Hansalaya Building, 15 Barakhamba Rd (331-0464)
Singapore Airlines
Hindustan Times Building, Kasturba Gandhi Marg (332-6373)
South African Airways
B-Block, Connaught Place (332-7503)
Swiss Airlines
  DLF Centre, Sansad Marg (332-5511)
Tarom Romanian
Antariksh Bhawan, Kasturba Gandhi Marg (335-4422)
Thai International
Park Royal Hotel, America Plaza, Chanakyapuri (623-9988)
Turkmenistan Airlines
BMC House, Connaught Place (332-8129)
United Airlines
 Amba Deep Bldg, Kasturba Gandhi Marg (335- 3322)
Uzbekistan Airlines
Hotel Janpath (332-0070)

Domestic Flights
The main domestic carrier in India is Indian Airlines, a government airline flying to many of India’s major cities. Check-in time is an hour (best to be there an hour and half) before departure. If you do not arrive within thirty minutes of flight time, your seat may be given to someone else. It is a good idea to reconfirm your reservation, especially if you purchased your ticket overseas. Air India also has domestic flights to major cities such as Calcutta and Mumbai. These flights depart from the International Terminal, not the domestic one.

The Indian Airlines office is at the Malhotra Building (331-0517), F-Block, Connaught Place. It is crowded, but there is a special counter for foreign tourists. There is another office at the PTI Building (371-9168) on Sansad Marg, which is open from 10 am to 5 pm, except Sunday. It is a good idea to hire a travel agent to arrange tickets if you wish to avoid the long lines. There is a 24-hour office (141) at the Safdarjang Airport, where bookings can be made. Booking for Indian airlines can be made at (462-0566), at Safdarjung Airport at 462-1337; fax 462-4322. Airport number: 566-5121, 569-6535, 142.

Indian Airlines also flies internationally to Bangkok, Singapore, Kathmandu (2 daily $170), Karachi, Kabul, Colombo, and Dhaka. Many times they offer the cheapest flights to these places. From Delhi, the only international flight is to Kathmandu. The office at Barakhamba Rd. (331-3732) handles both international flights and domestic flights (open 10 am to 5 pm except Sunday).

There is a 24-hour flight information phone at the domestic airport (141, 144). For recorded flight information, the numbers are 142 for arrivals and 143 for departures. The Indian Airlines office at the airport is a good place to make reservations, but is out of the way. You could arrange booking here when you fly into Delhi. They may not allow you to take batteries in your carry-on luggage, including computer batteries; they will want you to check them.

The domestic airlines with flights departing from Delhi are Indian Airlines, Jet Airways (372-5993/94, 332,3949; Airport 566-5126 ext 2200; fax 332-4693), Air India (373-1225; Airport: 565-2050), East West, Archana (684-2001; Airport: 566-5768; fax 566-5768), Druk (331-0990), Jagson (372-1593/94; Airport 566-5126; fax 332-4693), and Sahara (332-6851; Airport 566-5234; fax 332-6858).

Some of the flights from Delhi are: Agra (1 daily, $50), Ahmedabad (4 daily, $120), Amritsar (1 daily, $90), Aurangabad (1 daily, $150), Bangalore (5 daily, $230), Bhopal (1 daily, $105), Bhubaneswar (1 daily, $195), Calcutta (5 daily, $190), Chennai (6 daily, $235), Cochin (1 daily, $300), Dharamsala (three weekly, $100), Goa (2 daily, $200), Guwahati (2 daily, $210), Hyderabad (3 daily, $190), Jaipur (2 daily, $60), Jodhpur (3 weekly, $95), Khajuraho (2 daily, $90), Kullu (1 daily, $130), Leh (daily, $105), Lucknow (4 daily, $80), Mumbai (22 daily, $165), Pune (2 daily, $185), Thiruvananthapuram (1 daily, $325), Udaipur (1 daily, $95), and Varanasi (3 daily, $115).

Domestic Airlines
Archana Airway
41A Friends Colony East, Mathura Rd (684-2001)
Jagson Airlines
12E Vandhana, 11 Tolstoy Marg (372-1593)
Jet Airways
3-E Hansalaya, 15 Barakhamba Rd (685-3700, 372-4725, 372-4724)  
Sahara India
7th Fl, Ambadeep Building, Kasturba Gandhi Marg (332-6851)

Train There are three main railway stations. The New Delhi Station, near Paharganj, about five minutes from Connaught Place in the center of town, and the Delhi Station, in Old Delhi. The New Delhi Station is on the broad-gauge network, and connects Delhi with most of the major cities in India. Old Delhi Station is on the metre-gauge line of the Western Railway, and connects Delhi with Jaipur, Ajmer, Udaipur, Nathdwar, Jodhpur, Ahmedabad, and many other places. They are a half-hour apart by auto-rickshaw, so you should be sure you find out from which station you are departing when you purchase your ticket. If you catch an auto-rickshaw from Old Delhi to the New Delhi Station, and you have baggage and no ticket, tell the driver to take you to the Main Bazaar side and not the Ajmeri Gate side. Otherwise you will have a hard walk over the railway tracks. The #6 bus goes between the two stations for a few rupees.
The Nizamuddin Station in southeast Delhi is a good place to get trains, as it is much less crowded. There you can catch trains to Mathura, Goa, Puri, and other places. If you are coming from Mathura or Agra and are going to the airport or south Delhi, it is better to get off the train there instead of the New Delhi station. There is also another station called Sarai Rohilla St Station, which is a ten-minute auto-rickshaw ride from the New Delhi Station and Connaught Place on Guru Govind Singh Marg. From here trains to Rajasthan depart and arrive.

You can book tourist quota tickets at the Tourist Booking Office, upstairs in the main building of the New Delhi railway station. When you enter the main entrance of the train station, in front of you on the left hand side is a wide open stairway that leads to the upper floor. You then turn right and you can then see this big office through the glass windows. Open Mon to Sat from 8 am to 1.30 pm and 2 to 5 pm. If you book a ticket here, you must pay in foreign currency or have an exchange certificate. Your change will be given in rupees. One of the queues (lines) is for paying in foreign currency; the other is for paying in rupees with an exchange certificate. You can also purchase Indrail passes here.

There is a new place where you can get foreign tourist quota ticket, which is at the Delhi Tourism Office, N36, Middle Circle in Connaught Place. It is open daily except Sunday from 8 am to 1.30 pm and 2 to 5 pm. Since not many people know about it yet it does not usually have many people in it. I was told they charge a small fee for their services.  

The computerized booking office for Western Railway only (not all India) is in a separate building about 300m from the New Delhi Station on Chelmford Rd. Waiting time may be a couple of hours. Open Mon to Sat 7.45 am to 9 pm, Sun until 1.50 pm.

The 7.05 am Taj Exp #2180 (7.15 am, 2½ hr, departs Nizamuddin station) is a fast train to Agra. It also stops in Mathura (2 hr). The Shatabdi Exp #2002 (2 hr, 6.15 am, ND) to Agra is even faster. It continues on to Jhansi (4 hr) to meet the bus to Khajuraho. The Punjab Mail #1038 (7.15 am) takes three hours and the AP Exp #2734 (5.55 pm) takes 3½ hours to reach Agra. Around 15 trains depart daily to Agra from either New Delhi or Nizamuddin stations.

Fifteen trains each day go to Mathura (the train junction for Vrindavan) from either the New Delhi station or the Nizamuddin train station. These trains take between 2½ and 3½ hours if there are no major delays.

The fully A/C Shatabdi Exp (6.20 am) takes just 4½ hours to reach Jaipur. The Pink City Express #2901 (6 am, 6 hr) goes to Jaipur leaving from the Sarai Rohilla station, as do some other trains going to Rajasthan. It continues on to Udaipur (15 hr).
Ahmedabad Ashram Express #2905 (6 pm, 17 hr) is a good train.

Bangalore Rajdhani Exp #2430 (9.30 am, Saturdays, 36 hr), Karnataka Exp #2628 (9.15, 41 hr). Calcutta Rajdhani Exp (5.15 pm, 18 hr, daily except Sun), Kalka-Howrah Mail #2312 (8 am, 24 hr), Poorva Exp #2304 (4.30 pm, 24 hr). Chennai  Rajdhani Exp (Mon, 30 hr), Tamil Nadu Exp #2622 (10.30 pm, 34 hr).

Gorakhpur Amritsar-Kasher Exp #5706 (3.15 pm, 14 hr); Lucknow Shatabdi Exp #2004 (6.20 am, 6 hr), Lucknow Mail #4230 (10 pm, 9½ hr).
Mumbai Rajdhani Exp #2952 (4.05 pm, 17 hr, daily except Tues), Frontier Mail #2904 (8 am, 23 hr), Punjab Mail #2938 (5.30 am, 24 hr). There are several other trains to Mumbai, which take from 22 to 31 hours.

Kalka (for Shimla) Himalayan Queen #4095 (6 am, 11 hr); Varanasi New Delhi-Howrah Express #2382 (4 pm, 14 hr), Poorva Exp #2382 (4.25 pm, 12½ hr), also several other trains to Varanasi leaving on various days.

Trains from Delhi go to Agra (2-4½ hr, 15 daily), Lucknow (7-10 hr, 5 daily) Gorakhpur (13 hr, 1 daily), Haridwar (7-10 hr, one or two a day), Jhansi (4 to 9 hr, 15 daily), Allahabad (7-14 hr, 9 daily), and Varanasi (13-18 hr, 6 daily) in Uttar Pradesh. Trains go to Jaipur (5-13 hr, 8 daily), Udaipur (15-20 hr, 2 daily), and Ajmer for Pushkar (9 hr, 5 daily) in Rajasthan. Trains go to many other places in India such as Mumbai (17-29 hr, 8 daily), Ahmedabad (17-25 hr, 4 daily), Amritsar (8-12 hr, 9 daily), and Puri (32-40 hr, 2 daily).

Trains also go to such major places in South India as Bangalore (40 hr, 1 daily), Chennai (36 hr, 2 or 3 daily), Thiruvananthapuram (54 hr, 1 daily), Hyderabad (25-28 hr, 2 or 3 daily), and one train a week to Kanyakumari (58 hr).

Warning While trying to find the Tourist Booking Office you may be approached by several people telling you the office is closed temporarily because of construction or some other reason. They may even bring you upstairs and show you some construction. They will then tell you the office has been relocated across the street. Don't believe any of it.

Bus The main bus station is the Interstate Bus Terminal (ISBT) at Kashmir Gate, 1km north of the Old Delhi Railway Station. Local buses to all over Delhi as well as many interstate buses leave from here.

You can get a deluxe or semi-deluxe bus from here to Agra (5 hr) and Jaipur (5 hr). You can get a bus to Haridwar (6 hr), Dharamsala (13 hr), Shimla (10 hr), Manali (17 hr), Chandigarh (8 hr), Amritsar (9 hr), and many other places. There are regular buses to Mathura (3½ hr), every half-hour or hour. You should allow about thirty minutes to purchase your ticket and find the right bus because this station is quite spread out.

There is a State Bank of India (does not exchange money), a post office, and a 24-hour left luggage counter (cloak room) in the terminal. An auto-rickshaw from here to Paharganj cost about Rs 40. A prepaid auto-rickshaw from the New Delhi railway station is Rs 25.

From the Sarai Kali Khan Inter-State Bus Terminal, two blocks east of Nizamuddin railway station, buses depart to Agra (5 hr, every 30-min, Rs 65) and to Mathura (3½ hr, every 2 hr, Rs 45).

To get to some places such as Haridwar, Dharamsala, and Manali you can arrange a deluxe bus from a private company. These buses are usually better than the local state buses, and usually depart only at night. Book your bus trip as far in advance as possible. Private deluxe buses usually depart from Chelmsford Rd, the street on which the New Delhi train station is located. This is usually a much more convenient place to catch a bus than the Interstate Bus Terminal. Tickets can be purchased from agents on Chelmsford Rd or Paharganj, or sometimes hotel managers can obtain tickets. A recommended place to buy bus tickets is Aa Bee Travels (351-0171; fax 753-2795) at the Hare Rama Guest House. It pays to shop around before buying from travel agencies, as many will charge you double the actual fare.
To get to a location in the north, such as Shimla or Dharamsala, it may be more pleasant to take a train for the first part of the journey and a bus for the balance.

An overnight local bus is a good way to understand how painful life can be, but the all night-luxury buses are not so bad. Think twice before taking an all-night video bus—they are extremely loud through a good part of the night.
You can catch a deluxe bus to Jaipur and other places in Rajasthan at Bikaner House, at the Rajasthan tourist office, just south of Rajpath by the India Gate.

 

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