Practical Information

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At many of the historical sites around India there have been huge increases in the entry fees for foreigners. For instance the entry fee to enter the Taj Mahal is Rs 950 (US20), while for Indian it is Rs 15.
Over 2,000 people have been killed in terrorist attacks and fighting in Kashmir so far this year, so it is still highly suggested not to go to Kashmir. Please do not believe anything you may be told by travel agents that there are no longer problems in Kashmir. This is definitely not so.
The population of India is now over one billion.
New States
Three new states have been formed Chhattigarh, Uttaranchal and Jarkhand. Chhattigarh has been formed from part of western Orissa and eastern Madhya Pradesh. Uttaranchal was formed out of section of northern Himalayas area, and Dehra Dun is the capital. A section of former southern Bihar has become the state of Jarkhand and Ranchi is the capital.  
Increase in Major Tourist Sites Entrance Fees
The Archaeological Survey of India increased the cost of all World Heritage listed monuments to $10 for foreigners. This is an increase to Rs 460 to enter a site compared to former rate which in many cases were as little as Rs 5 or Rs 10. Some place where the price has been increased is Hampi in Karnataka, Elephanta Caves in Mumbai, Fatehpur Sikri near Agra, the temple complex at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, and the Ellora and Ajanta caves in Maharashtra. Other historical sites have increased to $5. For instance the Dig Palace price is Rs 5 for Indians and Rs 250 for foreigners.
The Taj Mahal has been increased from Rs 15 up to $20 or Rs 950. On Friday it is free and crowded, but I know of many people that have gone on Friday and really enjoyed their trip to the Taj. It is closed on Monday. The main part of the fee is supposed to go to the Agra Development Association. (I will research what is actually being done with the money).
Also the prices of the main museums have been increased to Rs 150 for foreigners. Such as the National Museum and the National Gallery of Modern Art in Delhi, and the Prince of Wales Museum in Mumbai.
Hotel Ratings in This Book
You will see the prices of hotels often written as Rs 100/200. This indicates the single and double price of the same room. Rs 100 is the single price and Rs 200 is the double price for two people. If I use the term Rs 100 to Rs 200, it means that there may be several different rooms at different prices between these two prices.
The number after the hotel name in parenthesis is the phone number for the hotel.
When you read the description of hotels in this book there are several words I use repeatedly. This is not just because I cannot be unique and find new words. “Well-managed” means that the people managing the hotel try to be efficient and that the people at the front desk can communicate with you properly.
“Family-run” means that the hotel is owned by a family. This is usually very good, because they are getting all the profits of the hotel and so really try to please. In a family-run hotel they are usually more selective with whom they allow to stay in their hotel, especially during the high-seasons. Sometimes families can be hard to deal with because they are too attached.
A “friendly place” means that the management and the people working in the hotel are pleasant and they make you feel like you are at home. Also, it could be a good place to meet people.
A “recommended hotel” means that I would stay in that hotel myself in that particular price range. It means it is a very good place, at least compared to the other places in town. You may even go to a particular city just to stay in a recommended hotel in a higher price range, such as the Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur. A “nice place” or a “good place” means that it is superior to other places in the same price range and you will probably like the place. A “very good place” means that the place is clean, well-managed, friendly and pleasant.
 A “basic place” only has the bare necessities, which usually means four walls and a bed (maybe with no sheet). A “really basic” or “very basic” place means there might not be a bed (just a mattress on the floor) and the toilet facilities are minimal or nonexistent.
“Common bath” means that the bathroom is in the hall and not connected to the room. The words “with bath” or “attached bath” means that the bathroom is connected to the room. “A/C” is the abbreviation for air-conditioned.
“Colonial” means that the building dates back to the time of the British. “British Raj” means that the building dates to the time when the British ruled India and usually the hotel still projects the atmosphere of that era.
“Modern” means that the rooms in the hotel are built in the Western style and are well-maintained. “Comfortable” means that the hotel room is pleasant, has a good feel to it, and has modern amenities, such as, a good color TV and a clean, well-maintained bathroom.
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Special Permits
Foreigners need to get a special permit to go to certain areas in India, such as: parts of Ladakh, Sikkim, Lakshadweep, Andaman Islands, and some of the Northeastern states. Certain places are totally restricted for foreign tourist, such as: areas in Sikkim, some Northeastern states, and places near the India and Pakistan border or Chinese border. Some permits may take a week or two to get, so it is a good idea to start the process of getting some permits a month or more in advance.
Of the Northeast states, Assam, Tripura and Meghalaya are open to foreign tourists without a permit. Permits to visit parts of the states of Mizoram, Arunachal Pradesh and Manipur are issued to tourist traveling in a group of four or more by pertinent state governments. Visits are restricted to certain areas in these states. To get a permit for individual travel to these states is usually difficult.
You get a permit to visit Sikkim from immigration offices at embassies and consulates abroad, the main international airports, foreigners’ registration offices, and in Darjeeling and Siliguri. You need a permit to trek in certain areas of Sikkim, and some areas of Sikkim are totally restricted.
Passport
According to law, you must have your passport with you at all times. To check into a hotel you must show your passport to the hotel clerk and fill out a form with your passport and visa information. If the police ask to see your passport, you must show it to them. They have the right to ask you for it at any time, for no reason.
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xe "Visa"Visa Extensions
If you plan to stay in India more than the period for which your visa was issued, then you will have to extend your visa. You need four photos. Depending on the office you apply at and your personal circumstances, you may or may not get an extension. The official policy is that a tourist visa cannot be extended.
It is unlikely to get an extension on a six-month visa, and officially the only office that can give an extension now is the main Delhi office. If a person has a good reason, for instance extreme illness, it may be possible to get a two-week extension for US$40. For visa information try this site (www3.travel.com.au/everest/index.cgi?E=bevisreq). 
The Delhi office has a sign that says it is not possible to extend a three or six-month tourist visa. You are more likely to get an extension on a three months visa than on a six months visa. One woman told me, she saw seven people turned down in the Delhi office. She got a one-month extension because she had gone to Nepal for a part of her visa period. The men in the visa office are intelligent and do not appreciated ridiculous excuses. Make sure you have your story together.
Usually the only reason that you will get an extension is because you were, or are sick (you need a doctor’s letter saying this is a fact), or you have some very special circumstances. Also, if you can not get a flight out of India you can often get a visa extension. You must show your airline ticket with a confirmed flight date on it, then you will usually be issued a visa for the number of days until the flight.
In theory, you can apply to extend your visa in every state capital at the office of the Superintendent of Police. In actuality, you can usually only extend a tourist visa at the Foreigners’ Regional Registration Offices in New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, or Calcutta. Usually officials are friendlier in the smaller towns than in the big cities. You should try to extend your visa at least a week before your visa expires. In case you do not get the extension, you should have your plane trip scheduled to leave India within the time that your visa is scheduled to expire. Over extending your visa is taken very seriously by Indian officials. You many be arrested and blacklisted, which means you will not be able to get another visa for India.
Many people go to Nepal (can only be done once, if that) or other neighboring countries to get a new visa. Many people have told me that most of the people applying in Nepal for another six-month Indian visa have been turned down. People who are turned down are usually given a 15-day transit visa, if their international flight is out of India. Sometimes a visa in Kathmandu can be arranged through a travel agent.
WARNING! If you plan to stay in India for more than six months, you must register at a Foreigners’ Registration Office within two weeks of your arrival. When you register, you will fill out four forms and turn in four photographs. One of the forms is returned to you. You should keep it very carefully because you will have to show this form when you leave the country. If you can not show this form at the airport there is a good chance you will not be allowed to get on your flight leaving the country.
If you do not register within two weeks of your arrival, usually there is no problem doing it later, if you have a reason (excuse). Such as, you did not think you were going to stay for more than six months, which is often true. If you have a tourist visa and did not register in time, it is better to tell the truth and say that you were spaced out or did not know you were supposed to register, rather than coming up with a stupid excuse and insulting the intelligence of the person registering you. The people working in the Foreigners’ Registration Offices are usually high-ranking police officers and are usually highly intelligent (and usually reasonable).
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xe "Foreign Registration Office"Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO)
In most major cities there are Foreignersxe "Tourist Offices" ’ Registration Offices. Visa extensions are issued at some Foreigners’ Registration Offices. If you come on a student visa or entry visa, you have to report any change of address, or if you plan to travel for more than two months from the place where you are registered. When you leave India, you must inform the FRO office where you are registered. You also are supposed to get an AIDS test within one month of registration. If you are found positive, you will be asked to immediately leave the country. In practicality, you can often avoid getting this test.
Main Foreigners’ Registration Offices
New Delhi
1st Floor, Hans Bhavan, Tilak Bridge, by the Tilak Bridge Railway Station
(011-331-9489)
Calcutta
237 Acharya J C Bose Rd (033-247-3301)
Mumbai                                
Special Branch II, Annexe 2, Office of the Commissioner of Police
Dadabhoy Naoroji Rd (022-262-0446)
Chennai
Shashtri Bhavan Annexe, 26 Haddows Rd (044-827-8210)
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Tax Clearance
If you stay in India for more than four months, you are supposed to get a ‘tax clearance certificate’ before leaving the country.
To get one, you go to the Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department in Delhi, Calcutta, Chennai, or Mumbai and show them your passport, visa extension form (if any), and whatever bank exchange receipts you have, so you can prove that you have changed your foreign currency officially and have not worked in India.
The Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department in New Delhi is in the Central Revenue Building, near Hans Bhavan and the Tilak Bridge Railway Station.
If you are in India for education or other business with a long-term visa (one year or more), you can get a letter from the organization that you are with. This letter must say that you have been supported by the organization while you were in India.
Warning Many people are being turned back at the airport for not having income tax clearances, so it is advised to get one before going to the airport. If you do not have it you will not be allowed to get on the plane.
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Consulates and Embassies
If you have a problem, like your money or ticket was lost or stolen, you can often go to your embassy or consulate and they will often help you out. This is definitely true of the USA and British Embassies. They will usually have a good list of doctors.
If a serious crime has been committed against you, such as rape or physical violence, and you know who did it, and the local police will not do anything about, you can sometimes go to your embassy and they will help you get justice.
xe "Customs"Customs
You are allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes, food, and a still camera duty free. If you bring more than US$2,500 in cash or more than US$10,000 in cash and travelers cheques combined, you are supposed to declare this to the customs officials when arriving in India. If you bring a video camera or computer, you are supposed to declare them, and they may be marked in your passport to insure that you take them out of the country.
I do know of cases where people have not declared their computer or printer and had to pay a $200 fine. They can also legally seize what you were supposed to have declared, and I have heard of cases where this has happened. This will usually only happen if you bring in four computers or five new identical cameras. Your check-in and carry-on baggage is X-rayed when you come off the plane. They then put a big chalk “X” on the bags that contain electronic equipment. When you come to the door to leave the airport they check to see if there are any chalk “X” marks on your bags. The reason why they are so strict about electronic goods is because they charge a high duty on imported goods.
In you enter India from Nepal you are not allowed to bring in anything duty free.
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xe "Indian Government"Indian Government
India has a parliamentary system of government. There are two houses—the Lok Sabha (House of the People), which is the Lower House and the Rajya Sabha (Council of States), which is the Upper house. All Indians over the age of 18 can vote. There is the national government as well as state governments and there is a strict division of what each of them handle.
The Lok Sabha has 545 members. Each of the 17 states and 10 Union Territories have a certain number of seats depending on its population. Lok Sabha elections are held every five years, or earlier if the government calls for an election. The Lower House can be dissolved. Of the 545 seats, 125 are reserved for Scheduled Castes and Tribes. Only two or three times a year is the entire house present. At least 50 members must be present to propose and pass a bill. Taxation and government spending are only discussed in the Lower House. Either house can propose a bill, but most are proposed by the Lok Sabha, and is then passed to the Rajya Sabha for approval.
The Rajya Sabha has 245 members and cannot be dissolved. There are elections every two years, at which time one-third of the Rajya Sabha is elected. The Rajya Sabha is mainly an advisory body. They have the right to create a state and can change state boundaries.
Each state has it own legislative assemblies called Vidhan Sabha. The police force, education, and industry are administered solely by the state governments. Other areas may be administered by both the national and state governments.
The two national houses and the state houses elect the President of India, who has limited power. The real ruler of the country is the Prime Minister. The central government has the right to take power in a state, if the situation in the state is critical. This may be because no party can win a majority in the state government, or because law and order is impossible to control, such as in Kashmir in 1990, Assam in 1991 or the Punjab from 1985 to 1992.
Indian Flag
The Indian Flag is three horizontal lines of color from top to bottom: orange, white and green. There is a chakra wheel in the center of the flag.
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People and Population
India has a population of about 968 million, which is increasing every day. It has the second largest population in the world, next to China. The population was 439 million in 1961, 547 million in 1971, 687 million in 1981, and 843 million in 1991. The population is growing at about 2% each year.
About 70% of the population live in villages. It is estimated that about 300 million people live in the cities. Many of the people in Indian look different. The Kashmiris have lighter skin and look more like Central Asians, South Indians have darker skin, Bengalis are usually shorter, and the people from Tibet, Ladakh and Sikkim look totally different. About 7% of the population are considered to be tribals.
The majority of the people in India are Hindus. There are 110 million Muslims, making India the third largest Muslim country in the world. There are 23 million Christians, 19 million Sikhs, 6.9 million Buddhists, and 4.7 million Jains.
The national literacy rate is 54%. The literacy rate for men is 64% and for women 39%. The literacy rate between states varies greatly. In Rajasthan it is just 38% and in Kerala it is 91%.
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Emergency Numbers
Police 100
Fire 101
Ambulance 102
These are the numbers in Delhi, but they are usually the same in other places too.
Intelligent Indians?
Are there any? This is a question that I have been repeatedly asked during my travels. My answer is always the same. Yes, there are, and not only are many Indians among the most intelligent people in the world, often they are the most helpful, honest, caring and down right nicest people that you will find anywhere in the world. I have had a lot of contact with Indians, not only in India, but also in the US. Many of my good friends are Indians and I totally trust them.
If you are a tourist and you are only staying in budget hotels, especially if you are a woman, you may have a problem meeting a “nice Indian.” It can often be tough to relate to people in India because of the economic situation. The end conclusion of many conversations is what they can get out of you. Therefore it is usually best to talk to people on the same or in a higher economic status.
If I am on a train or in another public place and someone just joins into the conversation I am having, I have found that not only do I not mind talking to them, I usually enjoy it. I always like to learn more about India and the people, and what better way than by talking to them.
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Tipping
In India you tip to get things done, not just for services rendered. It is customary to tip in India. Indians tip and for the most part, I have found them to tip much better than foreigners.
Tipping is not necessary for taxis, especially if you have set the price in advance. If a taxi driver goes out of the way for you, such as carrying your bags, it is a good idea to tip him. If you arrange a taxi for the day, it is normal to give the taxi driver something for lunch, say Rs 25 or Rs 50. If he has done a good job, it is a good idea to give the driver a tip. I usually give Rs 50 to Rs 100, if the driver has been helpful. In more expensive hotels a tip of Rs 5 or Rs 10 to carry a bag is appropriate, and in cheaper hotels it is less.
xe "Laundry"In expensive tourist restaurants or hotels a service charge is sometimes tacked on to the bill at a 10% rate. So before you tip, look to see if a service charge has already been added to your bill.
Giving small tips can make the most difficult things suddenly easy. You do not have to tip, but it can really help when you need something done quickly or efficiently.
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xe "Laundry"Laundry
Laundry men are called dobhis in India. They do an excellent job on your laundry and will more than likely clean your clothes better than you could ever imagine. If you change your clothes every day, then bring at least four sets, as it takes at least one or two days to get your clothes back. I have never seen a public washing machine in India. So either you have to wash your clothes by hand or have a dobhi do your laundry. If you have the dobhi do your laundry, it can cost more than having your clothes washed in America, but they usually do a much better job. They can even get bloodstains out. However, they can also beat your clothes, especially socks, until they get holes in them, or knock no shortage of buttons off your shirts.
Generally the hotel you stay at can arrange to get your laundry done. At least they will know where to find the local dobhi.
Business Hours
Shops are usually open from 10 am to 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. Post offices are usually open 10 am to 5 pm, Monday to Friday, and Saturday till noon. The Delhi post office is open from 8 am to 6 pm. Banks are usually open from 10 am till 2 pm and until noon on Saturday. Offices and shops are usually closed on Sunday, but can be closed on a different day depending on the town.
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xe "Guides"Guides and Tours
Often tourist offices in many cities offer guided tours. Mostly Indians take the guided tours, as most foreigners find them to be too rushed. I found them to be a good cheap way to see places quickly. Sometimes, the guide for the tour does not speak English well.
You can often get a good private guide for the area by contacting the local tourist office. Travel agencies can sometimes arrange a good guide. If the travel agent cannot speak good English, then there is a good chance that the “English speaking” guide he arranges will not speak proper English either, because the agent’s standard of what is good English is different than yours. You may want to test your guide on some basic information and his ability to speak English. Sometimes they may be able to speak a few things in English to trick you. Also many times, a rickshaw or taxi driver can give you a nice tour.
I have often found guides to be useful for information. On the other hand, they may not really be guides at all, but commission agents. They may charge you a low price to guide you around town, say Rs 50, and just take you around to shops all day, along with the few places you want to go. You should become suspicious if they want to charge you an unusually low price. The first impression of the guide is usually correct. If you do not trust the guide at all, do not hire him. A guide who manipulates you in order to be hired is usually nothing but trouble.
xe "Travels Guides"Books
A Handbook for Travellers in India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka, by John Murray (1982, 22nd edition), is almost like a history book, describing the history of each place. The first edition dates back to the 19th century. It is like a Victorian travel guide, but it is difficult to find and is expensive.
South India, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Goa as well as Western India, Karnataka, Bombay, Maharashtra, by Philip Ward are two good general books about traveling in the respective areas. He describes these places to you as he is actually going to them, so you get a feeling of what it is like to be there.
Insights Guides’ Rajasthan and India by APA Productions, and Nelles Guides’ Northern India and Southern India are good photo essays on India. They have excellent photographs and general descriptions of places, but their practical sections are limited. India by Rail, by Royston Ellis, is a good book about traveling by train. Garhwal-The Devbhoomi, published by Nest and Wings, is a good, detailed book about traveling in the Himalayas.
Recommended Reading
To have a correct understanding of the spiritual culture of India it is helpful to read the Bhagavad-gita, which was spoken by Lord Sri Krishna to Arjuna. Considered by many to be the most authoritative version in English is Bhagavad-gita As It Is by His Divine Grace A.C. Bhaktive­danta Swami Prabhupada.
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xe "Maps"Maps
A large map really helps you get around and gives you a good perspective of the entire country. The Bartholomews map is an excellent map. It is plastic and lasts a long time. I used it myself and after two years it is still in good shape. The Lascelles Map of India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka is also excellent. The Nelles Verlag series has more detail, but takes 5 maps to cover India. You usually cannot buy them in India. Nelles South India map is far superior to any other map. It marks most of the holy cities and towns where there are major temples, and will enable you to find some smaller places that are not on any other maps. Lonely Planet’s India Travel Atlas has 100 pages of maps detailing the entire country. It has a good index.
The Government of India tourist offices have good city maps and a decent India map that they give away for free. Nest & Wings produces some good maps of the Himalayas. Himachal Pradesh tourist offices has three good trekking maps detailing trekking routes in that state.
The Survey of India Government Map Office has some good detailed city maps, including: Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai, Mathura, Varanasi, Allahabad, Rishikesh and many others. Their sales office in Delhi is opposite the tourist office on Janpath.
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xe "World Times"World Times
Great Britain –5½, Eastern USA –10½, Central USA –11½, Pacific USA –13½, Germany –4½, Thailand +1½, Australia Perth +2½, Sydney, Melbourne +4½, Malaysia +2½, Mauritius –5½, Nepal is 15 minutes different, South Africa –3½, Singapore +2½. During the summer, Great Britain time is –4½ and the Eastern USA is –9½ hours different.
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xe "Months"Months
The Indian lunar months and the western equivalents (Indian Calendar)
Magha
January-February
Phalguna
February-March
Chaitra
March-April
Vaishaka
April-May
Jyaistha
May-June
Asadha
June-July
Sravana
July-August
Bhadra
August-September
Asvina
September-October
Kartika
October-November
Aghan
November-December
Pausa
December-January
Electricity
The electrical current is 230-240 volts AC 50 cycles. This is different from America and England, so to use your tape recorder, etc., you need a converter and an adapter for your plug, which you can get at certain Indian appliance stores in your own country. Socket sizes in India vary, so it is a good idea to get a universal adapter which is available at airports and at special travel stores. Sockets have three round pins, which is similar to the ones used in Europe. European plugs will go into the sockets, but the Indian pins are a little thicker and the plug will be a little loose, so the connection may not be so good.
Disabled Travelers
Travel in India with a wheelchair can be fairly difficult. If you do not have someone to help you—unless you plan to stay in one place—it will be difficult or at the very least, tiring. You can hire someone in India to help you for a small amount. The sidewalks (footpaths) usually are full of holes and they do not have ramps. Many buildings do not have facilities for wheelchairs and bathrooms were not built for them. On the other hand, there is no shortage of disabled people in India, and they manage with little trouble. If you can afford to stay in middle-class hotels and take taxis you should be able to travel in India. You can be certain that the local people will help you in whatever way they can.
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xe "Antiques"Antiques
Despite what you may be told, and how ancient the item may look, it is unlikely that an item said to be an antique is one.
Antiques over 100 years old cannot be taken out of India, unless you have an export clearance certificate from the Archaeological Survey of India, which is difficult to get. If you are discovered taking an antique out of the country without a clearance certificate, it will be taken from you.
xe "Clothes" To attempt to get an export clearance certificate for antiques you can contact the Director, Antiquities, Archaeological Survey of India, Janpath, New Delhi; Archaeological Survey of India, Sion Fort, Mumbai; Superintending Archaeologist, Eastern Circle, Archaeological Survey of India, Narayani Building, Brabourne Road, Calcutta; Archaeological Survey of India, Fort St George, Chennai.
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xe "Clothes"Clothes
Most of the time in India, you should wear loose fitting cotton cloth. In India, you can get good comfortable cotton clothes, which are specially made for the weather. Artificial materials can be extremely uncomfortable, as they tend to stick to your skin. Lightweight cotton pants are best for most places in India, and jeans are usually too heavy.
If you go to India between mid-November and mid-February, it can be very cold in northern India, especially in the Himalayas. You definitely need a warm sweater or two. If you are staying for a few months it is a good idea to bring extra socks, because if you have a laundry man wash them, they wear out very quickly. A warm hat in the early morning may be necessary. It is hard to get good winter clothes and socks in India.
Sandals are good to wear because they go on and off easily. At Bata shoe store for about Rs 100 you can get good cheap sandals, which are comfortable and sturdy. If you leave an expensive pair of shoes outside a temple unguarded, they may be stolen.
Acceptable Dress
In you are well dressed, you will usually be treated better in India, especially when you are doing official business. When going to temples you should dress very conservatively.
Transparent and low-cut dresses, bare shoulders, short skirts, and shorts are not acceptable for women, except in big cities like Mumbai. Women can wear trousers. Indian women on the beach bathe with their clothes on and never swim in bathing suits. Men should usually always wear a shirt in public. Men wearing lungis or gumshas, away from beaches or rivers, are not regarded very highly.
Many temples will not let you take leather items like bags and belts into the temple, and some will not allow socks.
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Valuables
When you travel, there are three things that are very valuable to you—your money, passport, and plane ticket. It is best to keep these things with you at all times. Carry your valuables in a money belt, a pouch under your shirt, or a pocket sewn into your clothing, not in your pockets or exposed bags. You can also get a money belt that attaches to the calf of your leg, or you can get a special pocket sewn inside of your clothes. You should try to never let anyone see your money belt in public, as thieves will try to cut it. You should not even think of putting any valuables in your check-in baggage on plane flights.
Valuables should not be left in your hotel room, if possible, especially in lower-class places where you use the hotel’s lock. It is best to always carry valuables on you. Most hotel rooms have extra keys for all the rooms. Your $1,000 could be worth two years of work for someone. You can leave valuables at the front desk at respectable hotels.
If you are carrying a lot of money, you may want to carry two money belts. I always carry two. When I go into a crowded situation like a railway station, I put the money belt that I have most of my money and passport in under my pants.
It is a good idea not to carry all your money in one place. If you do get robbed, what will you do if you are on a train to Mumbai with no money. It is best to carry at least $50 or $100 somewhere else all the time.
Travel bags should be made of a strong material, so they cannot be cut open. You should also be able to put a lock on them, if possible. The external pockets of a bag should not be used to carry valuables. Women should not keep their valuables in their purse, as they would in America. They are easily slit with a razor or pickpocketed. I have heard of many cases of this happening. You should not carry valuables in your back pockets or side kurta pockets. Carry them in your front pants pockets, upper shirt pockets, or in a money belt. It is best to keep your valuables in the front part of your body.
xe "Theft"Lost Passport or Ticket
If you lose your passport or plane ticket, you can expect a big hassle. If they are stolen, you must report the theft to the police immediately. You must show this police report to the airlines to get another ticket and to your local embassy to get a new passport. A USA passport is valuable in India.
If your ticket is lost, the travel agency where you purchased the ticket may have to request a new one. So it is a good idea to have the phone number and address of the travel agency that you got your ticket from. Depending on the type of ticket you had, you may have to pay again for the ticket and then wait for a refund, which can take a while. A photocopy of your passport and ticket will come in very handy if they are stolen.
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Watch Repair
If you have an expensive watch and want a really reliable place to repair it you should go to Johnson Watch Company (011 332-1592), L Block – 21, Connaught Place, in New Delhi. They can repair most watches including Seiko, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, and many more. It costs Rs 395 for a basic repair job, but it may be extra is they have to pull in replacement parts. I went to them to repair my Seiko watch, after trying several other places, and they repaired it with no problem. It is also a good place to purchase a watch. 
Watch Repair Warning
You should be careful in Indian when bringing an expensive watch in for repair as shops may take out the expensive original insides of the watch and replace it with the insides of a cheaper watch. This is not uncommon and I know this, because it happened to me. The next time I brought my watch in for repair, I was told that the inside of the watch was no longer a Seiko inside, but was another brand. 
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xe "Women Travelers"Women Travelers
It is best for women not to travel alone, especially if they have never been to India before. Many men in India think western women to be easy. Women are often subjected to being stared at, handled, peaked at through a hole in a hotel room door, and may receive obscene comments. These situations are not usually a serious threat.
It is important that women dress modestly. Women in India do not normally show their shoulders or knees, or wear tight fitting clothes, or shorts. It is best not to wear clinging, or low cut clothes. The bra-less look should be avoided.
Women usually do not shake hands with men, and certainly any physical contact beyond this is asking for trouble. Having a casual conversation with a man is considered a reason for a man to proceed further. Indian women and men who don’t know each other, unless they are highly educated, just don’t talk with each other in India. If you feel that a man is coming into your space, more than likely he is. Usually you can just request them to stay away from you. If someone touches you apparently innocently, it usually isn’t. Men do not touch women they do not know in India.
If you have a problem on a train or bus, approach the ticket collector and ask them politely to help you. If the ticket collector won’t help you, ask to see the conductor of the train. The conductor is usually a well-educated man, who you should speak to respectfully, and who will usually be helpful.
Groping is a normal thing. It is standard for women to be groped (handled) on the local trains in Mumbai. That is why there are separate compartments for women. Even just walking in the station, women can be handled. If a woman goes into a very crowded situation with many men, such as a bus, especially if she is by herself, it is not unusual for her to be groped. This happens with Indian ladies too.
If you are a woman traveling alone, it could be a good idea to travel by air-conditioned or first-class. There are much less passengers on these carriages, and they usually have had more contact with foreigners, so they are easier to deal with.
Women can request a ladies compartment in a 2nd class carriage of a train. Many trains have such a compartment. Also, most of the time there is a special ladies’ queue (line) for purchasing train tickets. This means that ladies can go to the front of a queue to purchase tickets for trains and no one will say anything. Most railway stations have ladies’ waiting rooms.
Language Courses
The Landour Language School in Mussoorie, Uttar Pradesh, offers a three-month beginner course in Hindi. I know several people who have gone there and who recommend it.
You can learn Tibetan at the Library of Tibetan Works in Dharamsala. There are also private teachers in Dharamsala. You can also learn Tibetan at the Library of Tibetan Works & Archives in Darjeeling.
NOTICE There are many power failures in India. So it is a good idea to have a good flashlight (torch).
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Special Activitiestc "Special Activities"
Camel Safaris
Many places in Rajasthan offer camel safaris. The favorite place is Jaisalmer. They last from one day to a week. Pushkar, Bikaner and Shekhawati are other popular places for safaris.
River Rafting and Kayaking
Places where white-river rafting is done are on the Ganges River (Uttar Pradesh) and its tributaries, on the Zanskar and Indus rivers in Zanskar and Ladakh, on the Teesta River in West Bengal, and on the Beas River in Himachal Pradesh. Travel agencies in Manali, Rishikesh (Uttar Pradesh), Leh (Ladakh), and in Gangtok (Sikkim) can organize trips.
Diving
There are diving schools in Goa, the Andaman Islands, and the Lakshadweep Islands. The diving school in South Andaman gives the PADI Open Water Diver Certificate course, which is accepted internationally.
Skiing
Auli, near Joshimath in northern Uttar Pradesh, is the main skiing resort in India. The ski season there goes from January to the end of March. There are also skiing resorts at Narkanda and Kufri, near Shimla, and Solang Nullah in Himachal Pradesh.
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Touts (Commission Agents)
They meet you at the train station, bus station, or airport and are paid a commission by a hotel to bring you there. They pick up unsuspecting tourists and either bring them to a hotel, where they charge up to double the normal price, or to some shop, where they try to sell tourist items for two to ten times the normal price. They can get 30% to 100% commission on the price of the room, which means that you pay more. Taxi or auto-rickshaw drivers often engage in such activities. If you ask to go to a particular hotel, they might tell you it is full, or that many people get robbed there. One tout jumped into my taxi in Jaipur and offered to show us around. He told me the hotel I wanted to stay at was full, but when we got there, the hotel was totally empty.
They will say they are taking you to their uncle’s or father’s shop, where you will get an unbelievable deal. Don’t believe it. If a tout does bring you to a shop and you want to purchase something, a good idea is to act like you do not like anything in the shop and just leave. You could then come back a half-hour later without the tout and purchase the item that you liked at a much lower price.
There are touts in Jaipur who offer to take you on an all-day tour for Rs 50, which doesn’t pay for their petrol (gas) to get around. They actually know the town and give you a good tour, but in between each place they show you great spots to purchase clothes, jewels, or whatever else. I know two ladies who did this. They purchased a ring that was an all right deal and paid double the correct price for some clothes. Considering that they got a good tour of the town, they were more than satisfied.
One way to get rid of touts is to hire one. If most of the hotels in town are full, they always know where there is a hotel with a room. They can be useful if there is a special festival and the town is packed, as they will know the hotels that still have rooms.
Social Behavior
In India, people use their right hand to eat, as well as to offer and take things from people. The left hand is considered unclean, as that hand is used for the toilet. It is considered impolite to give or accept something from someone with your left hand. It is considered dirty to serve food with the left hand or to put your left hand in your mouth.
Women do not generally shake hands with men. Men and women should not touch each other in public, especially in holy places and temples. In temples and often in people’s homes, men and women sit separately.
To greet someone, it is good manners to put your palms together and say “Namaste” or “Hare Krishna.” You can also shake hands, but this is not usually done in India, unless you are doing a business deal or someone wants something from you. Orthodox Hindus consider themselves polluted if they touch a person from a lesser caste, which Westerners are considered. Usually the more enthusiastically someone greets you, the more likely they are to rip you off.
When you enter someone’s home you should take off your shoes. It is all right to wear shoes inside a house as long as they are never taken outside the house. Most Indians take a bath and brush their teeth every day, if not several times a day. It is a religious duty to take a daily bath.
You should not enter the kitchen in a person’s home, unless you are invited to do so.
Serving spoons should never touch the plate of the person being served. After someone has begun eating, they should wash their hands before serving themselves or others’ food. If someone drinks from a bottle, they should not touch the mouth of the bottle and give it to someone else. This is considered unclean and unhealthy. Also, you do not take a bite out of something and then hand it to someone else to eat, or eat off the same plate as someone. After eating, Indians always wash their hands and mouth.
Attitude to be Treated Properly
People from Great Britain, as a class, usually have an easier time in India than people from other countries. I figure it is because Indians respond to the mode of the British Raj. I highly suggest to women, especially young pretty ones, that they should act haughty, which in truth, I believe, only the British can do properly. It is usually a good ideal (especially if they are alone and are a women) to walk around with your nose in the air, in a mode demanding respect. This is often difficult for foreigners, who feel that it is demeaning to the people around them. I have found that in actually, the local people, from the common man on the street to the most educated (in the highest positions) respond favorably to a person that approaches them in a mode that they should be given respect. If you try to be friendly, often you will not accomplish your task, and you may be highly disrespected in the process. Simultaneously you also have to always show respect and be very polite. The more conservative you dress, usually the better response you will receive from people. For the most part India is a very formal and conservative country.
If you are a young women and someone approaches you in a disrespectful way, maybe even touching you, I believed it is best to respond immediately, by showing great disgust. Don’t give them an inch.
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Indian Toilets
You may be bewildered when you first go into an Indian toilet, because there may not be any toilet paper or a seat to sit on. Indians usually clean themselves with water instead of using toilet paper. They usually then take a full bath with soap and water. Also, Indians do not sit down, they squat when they go to the toilet. It is actually a much more healthy and effective system. Only the left hand is used for the toilet.
xe "Begging"Begging
There are beggars, and then there are sadhus or saintly persons who accept donations. I do not think it is a good idea to give anything to the average beggar, unless you give them food. Giving to a saintly person is actually to the benefit of the giver. The difficulty with giving to a saintly person is to know who is actually saintly.
One problem about giving to beggars by temples or holy places, especially if they are children, is that if you give to one, you may have a hundred persons surround you and ask you for money. Also, it is a bad policy to give any money to small children, because they usually give all the money to their parents or some other adult. In this way the parents do not have to work, nor is it profitable for the parents to give their children an education. One eight-year-old boy approached me for some money. A shopkeeper told me that the boy’s parent owned two shops, and that they didn’t know their child was on the street begging.
General Information
Geckoes, the little lizards in your room, are not only harmless, but also helpful, because they eat mosquitoes and other insects. Their skin is poisonous, so they should not be touched.
xe "Measurements" If you have a problem understanding what is being said, you can ask the person to spell out the word, especially if it is a name.
Before you hire a guide, make sure you can understand his English and he can understand yours. Many times they will say a few words that they know, so that you think they speak good English, then later you find you cannot communicate with them at all.
 If I cannot communicate with someone, I immediately go on to the next person and do not waste my time.
 Many times the word “hotel” is used for a restaurant.
Shaking of the head to the side, as you would do if you were saying “no” in America, can mean “yes” in India. Sometimes nodding the head can mean “no.”
xe "Measurements"Measurements and Numbers
India uses the xe "metric system" metric system. In this book, distances are usually given in kilometres. A kilometre is 0.62 of a mile. Eight kilometres equal five miles. There are 1,000 metres in a kilometre and 100 centimetres in a metre. A metre is just over 3.3 feet and a centimetre is .4 inches. A litre is equal to 1.06 quarts.
Temperature in India is measured by the Centigrade system. To convert from xe "Centigrade to Fahrenheit" Centigrade to Fahrenheit you multiply the Centigrade temperature by 9/5 and add 32. A kilo is 2.2 pounds.
A hundred thousand is called a lakh (1,00,000), and ten million is called a crore (1,00,00,000). A million would be referred to as 10 lakhs, and not as a million.
Indian English & xe "Communication"Communication
Unless a person is highly educated, it is best to not speak in complete sentences. If you want a post office or the bus stand, it is usually best to just ask “Post Office?” or “bus stand?” and not “Where is the bus stand?” You could also say “Where Post Office?” It is best to mainly speak in one-to-three word sentences. Even if you speak to a highly educated person, it is best to speak with an Indian accent, if you can, and speak very slowly. What Indians are taught in school has little to do with the language that is spoken in America.
If you want to get directions to the train station, and you say “Where is the train station?” There is a good chance all you will get is blank stares. You have to ask “railway station?” Many people do not know what a train station is. Sometimes a bus station is called the “bus stand” in a particular town. If you ask for the bus station, no one will know what you are talking about.
If people cannot understand you when you speak, try to say the same thing in another way. Sometimes you will have to rephrase your question five or six times before it will be understood. You may also have to accent your words differently.
Mandir is another name for temple. In Hindi sometimes the letter ‘s’ is pronounced as ‘sh’ and sometimes simply as ‘s.’ The letter ‘b’ and ‘v’ are often used interchangeably. It can be either Braja or Vraja, or it can be Vrindavan or Brindavan.
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Indian Culture
1. Don’t overload your plate, you are expected to finish everything.
2. Never put objects on a temple or someone’s personal altar in their home or on sacred items, such as a religious book.
3. Never point the soles of your feet towards an altar in a temple, other people, or holy sites.
4. Remove your shoes when entering someone’s home, even if they tell you it is all right to wear your shoes. It is almost never all right.
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Problems & Indian Bureaucracy
Do not be annoyed if you have a problem getting something done, just be patient. If the person that you are dealing with can’t do what you need or is just plain unhelpful, ask to see the next higher official or the manager. Make sure you tell the person how important and competent he is, and that the organization he is working for is also such. Many things can happen just by waiting and letting the system fall into place.
If all else fails, ask to see the complaint book, which no one can refuse to give you. If someone is treating me in a way that I consider totally unfair, I demand that the person writes down his name, so I can complain to his superior. This usually breaks the person out of their dream world and makes them do things efficiently and quickly. I do actually complain if I am unfairly treated and have usually received what I consider justice. Also, offering small personal gifts, such as, a western pen or lighter, or a devotional item such as a picture of Krishna or a spiritual book can really help.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides