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Pop: 190,000 Area Code: 08574
Tirupati is 170km northwest of Chennai, in Andhra Pradesh near
the Tamil Nadu border, at the bottom of the Tirumala Hill. In Tirupati
there is the important Sri Govindaraja Swami Temple, Kothanda Rama Swami
Temple and the famous Kapileswara Temple, which is dedicated to Lord
Siva. In Tiruchanur, five km from Tirupati, is the Padmavathi Temple,
dedicated to the consort of Lord Venkateswara (Balaji).
The temple of Sri Venkateswara or Tirupati Balaji is situated above
the actual city of Tirupati in the hilltop town of Tirumala. There is
a steep staircase up the hill to Tirumala, used by pilgrims wishing
to show their devotion by making the climb; otherwise standard transportation
is readily available.
Information
The AP State Tourist Office (4818) is located on Govindaraja Car Street,
near the Bhima Deluxe Hotel. There is also the AP Tourism Regional Office
(23208), 139 TP Area, near III Choultry. There are tourist counters
at the railway station and airport. They conduct a daily tour from 9
am to 4 pm for Rs 150.
The TTD Information Centre (22777) is at 1 New Choultry.
Two helpful books that have good practical information about Tirupati
and the local temples are the TKT History of Tirupati, by Viruraghava
Charya, and the Tirupati Yatra Guide.
Heavy rains can be expected in October and November.
You can change money at the Indian Bank (22199), 214 Gandhi Rd.
The Head Post Office is on Gandhi Rd. Postal Code: 517501.
Foreigners’ Registration Office (20503), Intelligence, 499 Reddy
Colony.
Tours
There is a four-hour bus tour of the local temples, available twice
daily, at 10 am and 3 pm. It leaves from the Govinda Raja Swamy Choultry,
which is located on the opposite side of the tracks from the railway
station. This tour includes the Padmavathi Temple and Govindaraja Temple.
There is a Local sightseeing tour departing from the APSRTC Central
Bus Stand (10 am to 5 pm) that goes to Sri Kalahasti, Padmavathi Temple,
ISKCON (Hare Rama Hare Krishna), Govindaraja Temple, Chandragiri Fort,
Kapila-teertham, and Sri Venkateswara Temple.
There are two daily tours to Tirupati (Tirumala) from Chennai, one run
by the Tamil Nadu Tourist Development Corporation and the other by ITDC.
The tour lasts at least 15 hours, much of it traveling to and from Chennai.
The tour allows for a two-hour wait for ‘special darshan’,
which on weekends and holidays can take much longer. This means the
tour, which is supposed to last from 6 am to 9 pm, may not return until
midnight or later. The fare includes breakfast, lunch, and the Rs 30
‘special darshan’ fee.
APTDC has a weekend tour to Tirupati from Hyderabad. The tour leaves
at 4 pm on Friday and returns on Monday at 7 am. The tour includes ‘special
darshan’ and accommodation. You can take the bus only one way.
Govindaraja Temple
In this temple there are two main shrines. In the northern shrine is
Sri Govindaraja, who is Lord Vishnu lying on Ananta. He is considered
to be Lord Venkateswara’s brother. The other main shrine has Deities
of Sri Parthasarathi (Krishna as the charioteer of Arjuna), Rukmini
and Satyabhama (Krishna’s wives).
Parts of the inner shrine date back to the 9th and 10th centuries.
The original temple had Sri Parthasarathi on the main altar. Sri Ramanuja
added the Sri Govindaraja Deity around 1130.
To your left, as you enter the first gopuram (gate) of the temple, is
a temple dedicated to Lakshmi. She is seated on a lotus in her four-armed
form, holding a lotus in each of her upper hands, while her other two
hands are in poses of abhaya, fearlessness, and varada, benediction.
Situated above the door of this temple there is a carving of Lakshmi
holding a lotus in her hand.
Near the first gopuram there is a shrine dedicated to Vedanta Desika.
There is also a memorial for three of the Alwar devotees—Tirumallisai
Alwar, Namm Alwar, and Kurattalwar—near the Vahana-mandapa, and
another nearby shrine is dedicated to Sri Ramanuja. On the left of the
second entrance is a Kurma Deity, Lord Vishnu as a tortoise.
This is a big temple. It has a seven-storey gopuram, built in 1628.
There are carvings depicting the pastimes of the Ramayana and Lord Krishna’s
pastimes on the second gopuram. This temple is located just off the
main road, near the Bhima Hotel and the Tirupati railway station. The
temple tower is hard to miss, but the rest of the temple is set back
from the road.
Sri Venkateswara Museum
There is a good museum right next to the Govindaraja temple. It has
many sculptures, Deities of Krishna, and other interesting displays.
There is also a photo exhibit of the important 108 Divya Desam Vishnu
temples that were immortalized in songs by the Alwar devotees. Open
8 am to 8 pm.
Kothanda Rama Swami Temple
About two km from the Sri Govindaraja temple is the famous Kothanda
Rama Swami Temple built in 1481. Sri Chaitanya had darshan of Lord Ramachandra
Swami. The main festival of the year is in March-April, for Lord Rama’s
appearance day.
ISKCON (Hare Krishna) Temple
The ISKCON temple (08574-20114), Vinayaka Nagar (Driver’s Quarters),
is located at the foot of Tirumala Hill, on a piece of land given by
the TTD. The Deities here are Radha-Govinda. The temple has a beautiful
small garden. The temple is open 4.30 am to 1 pm and 4.30 to 8.30 pm.
This temple is included in the daily bus tours of Tirupati.
There is a good guest house next to the temple that has very nice, clean
rooms with hot water for Rs 150. It is best to book a room in advance.
Prasada is usually available during main meal times. From downtown it
costs about Rs 75 by auto-rickshaw to get to the ISKCON temple and back,
with an hour waiting time.
Padmavathi Temple
In Tiruchanur, five km from Tirupati, is this large temple dedicated
to goddess Padmavathi, the consort of Lord Venkateswara (Balaji). A
visit to Tirupati is not considered complete without seeing Sri Padmavathi.
Sri Padmavathi is seated in Padmasana, holding a lotus in both of her
upper hands. Her lower hands are in poses of abhaya, fearlessness, and
varada, benediction. Also in this temple are the Deities of Sri Krishna,
Balarama, Sundararaja Swami, and Surya-narayana Swami. It is traditional
to first worship Sri Krishna and then to take darshan of Sri Padmavathi.
Non-Hindus are technically not allowed in the temple. To enter you
may be asked to sign a paper testifying to being a Hindu. There is a
short wait to see the Deity, or for Rs 5 you can enter a special darshan
line.
Once a year there is a large festival that celebrates the marriage
of Lord Venkateswara to Padmavathi Devi. Padmavathi Devi arrives at
Tirumala on the back of a splendid elephant decorated with tilaka of
solid gold as Lord Sri Venkateswara comes out to meet her.
The main festival, Brahmotsavam, is in Nov/Dec. The ninth day of this
festival is the appearance day of Sri Padmavathi. On this day Lord Sri
Venkateswara presents his consort birthday gifts, which are brought
from Tirumala on a magnificently decorated elephant, covered with jewels
and pearls.
In the Area
At Kapila-teertham, a sacred tank two km from Tirupati, is the Kapileswara
Siva Temple where the sage Kapila was granted darshan of Lord Siva and
his consort. Bathing in Kapila-teertham is supposed to extinguish all
sins. This temple is situated in an attractive surrounding.
At Narayanavanam, 36km from Tirupati on the road to Chennai, is a temple
dedicated to Lord Kalyana Venkateswara Swami. It is believed to be the
place where the marriage of Lord Venkateswara and the goddess Padmavathi
originally took place. After marrying Sri Padmavathi, Sri Venkateswara
stayed here for a while before going to Tirumala.
Chandragiri Fort, 11km southwest of Tirupati, is where the third Vijayanagar
capital was located in the 16th century. There is a small museum there,
which contains weapons and sculptures. Open daily except Fri 10 am to
5 pm.
Where to Stay—Lower
Gopi Krishna Deluxe, by the railway station, has rooms with attached
bath for Rs 90/125.
Vasantha Vihar Lodge (20460), about a minute walk from the railway station,
has basic rooms for Rs 80/110.
New Bhimas Home is a decent place with rooms for Rs 200. If the other
places in town are full, there is a good chance there will be a room
here.
Bhimas Hotel (25744) is a suggested place with rooms for Rs 175/300,
deluxe rooms for Rs 400, and A/C rooms for Rs 600.
The two-star Bhimas Deluxe Hotel (25521; fax 25471), 34/38 G Car St,
has comfortable, clean rooms for Rs 400/450 and Rs 650/700 with A/C.
Both these places are a five-minute walk from the railway station and
have vegetarian restaurants.
Where to Stay—Middle
The new Bhima’s Paradise (25747; fax 25568), Renigunta Rd, a little
out of town, has a pool and is spotlessly clean. Rooms with bath and
TV are Rs 550 and Rs 800/900 with A/C.
Hotel Vishnu Priya (25070), opposite the Central Bus Stand, has rooms
with TV for Rs 500/600 and A/C rooms for Rs 900/1000.
The well-managed, three-star Hotel Mayura (25925, fax 25911), 209 T
P Area, 1km from the railway station, is one of the best places in town.
It has rooms with bath for Rs 550 and Rs 750/850 for an A/C room. They
change money. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. They accept major
credit cards.
Near by is the Oorvasi International Hotel (20202), Renigunta Rd, which
has rooms for about the same price.
Hotel Guest Line (28800; fax 27774), 14-37 Karakambadi Rd, 3½
km from station, is a good place with clean, well-furnished A/C rooms
for Rs 950/1200 to Rs 2000 for a suite. It has a pool and health club.
It has a 24-hour veg restaurant that serves thalis for Rs 30.
Quality Inn Bliss (25793) is a very clean, good place with rooms for
Rs 650/800. Accepts major credit cards. You can reserve a room in Chennai
(044-825-9090). It has the A/C Navrattan veg restaurant which serves
South and North Indian food (7 am to 11 pm) and the Khazana which has
Andhra cuisine, Chinese, Continental and Indian.
Dharamshalas
There is free accommodation at two dharamshalas (unfurnished rooms)
connected with the two main temples in Tirupati—Sri Govindaraja
temple and Sri Kodanda Rama temple. There are furnished rooms at Sri
Venkateswara Dharamshala, SV Guest House, Sri Padmavathi Guest House,
and the TTD (Alipiri) Guest House for Rs 30 to Rs 150 a night.
Where to Eat
Lakshmi Narayana Bhavan, across from the bus stand, is a good place
Bhimas Hotel, 42 G Car St, is a good veg place.
Surya Restaurant, in the Hotel Mayura, is a good veg restaurant serving
both North and South Indian dishes.
Sri Oorvasi International has a high-class, recommended vegetarian restaurant.
Bharani Restaurant, at the Bhima’s Paradise, Renigunta Rd, has
South Indian snacks and North Indian dishes.
Travel
Air The Indian Airlines office (25374; Airport: 75336)
is at the Hotel Vishnupriya, opposite the Central bus stand. There are
daily flights to Bangalore ($80) and flights to Chennai ($35, Tu, Thu,
Sat), and Hyderabad ($75, Tu, Thu, Sat). The airport is 15km from the
city center.
Train There are four express trains daily going
between Chennai and Tirupati. Tirupati to Chennai Saptagiri Exp
#6058 (5.30 pm, 3½ hr), Tirupati-Chennai Mail #6054 (10.05 am,
3¼ hr), Shatabdi Exp #2036 (7.45 pm, 2½ hr). Chennai to
Tirupati Shatabdi Exp #2035 (5.45 am, 2½ hr), Saptagiri Exp #6057
(6.25 am, 3½ hr), Chennai-Tirupati Mail #6053 (1.50 pm, 3 hr).
As Tirupati is a popular pilgrimage place, there are express trains
that go to many locations in India, especially in the South. There is
a direct train to Mumbai, the Tirupati-Mumbai Exp #7494 (9.40 pm, 24
hr) on Monday and Friday. On other day to get to Mumbai you first take
the Saptagiri Exp to Chennai (wait 45 minutes) and then take the Chennai-Mumbai
Exp #6010 (10.20 pm, 30½ hr). The total travel time is 35 hours.
Hyderabad Rayalaseema Express #7430 (7 pm, 16½ hr); Mysore Tirupati-Mysore
Exp (10 pm, 12 hr); Tiruchirappalli Tirupati-Tiruchirappalli Exp #6801
(3.40 pm, 12½ hr). The Tirupati-Puri Exp #8480 (2.50 am, Sat)
goes to Puri (22½ hr) via Vijayawada (11 hr) and Visakhapatnam.
The Tirupati-Howrah Exp #7480 goes daily to Calcutta via Visakhapatnam,
Khurda Road (for Puri which is another two hour train ride away) and
Bhubaneswar. There are two other trains daily to Vijayawada. There is
one train a day to Madurai (19 hr), and two trains daily to Chidambaram
and Tiruchirappalli. The Tirupati-Madurai Exp #6799 (3.40 pm) goes to
Madurai (19 hr) via Tiruchirappalli (14 hr), Thanjavur (12 hr), and
Chidambaram (9½ hr). The Cochin-Varanasi Exp #7089 (1.45 pm,
Sat) goes to Varanasi (38 hr) via Allahabad (35 hr).
Bus The APSRTC Central bus station (22333) is
about 2km from the railway station, on the same road. Express buses
from Tirupati to Chennai depart at 9.45 and 11.15 am, and 12.15, 2.45,
3.10 and 8.30 pm.
There are express buses (bus #802) from the Thiruvalluvar Bus Station
in Chennai (4 hr) at 8.15 am, 3.30 pm and 8.30 pm. The express buses
can be booked in advance. There are many other local buses, which can
take a long time. The train from Chennai is much more comfortable. There
are daily tour buses from Chennai that go and return the same day.
You can take direct buses to Hyderabad (14 hr, 10 daily), Tiruchirappalli
(9½ hr, 4 daily) via Vellore (2½ hr), Madurai (5 daily),
Vijayawada (hourly) and Bangalore. It is better to take a train to Hyderabad.
There are some direct buses to Kanchipuram (3 hr). There are also regular
buses that go to a small town by Tirupati (20 min), from where you change
to another bus to Kanchipuram.
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